liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Sewn hose. They are possibly the most boring thing ever to sew. It took me two years to finish the first pair I cut out at a sewing circle where we produced hose patterns left right and centre.

Yesterday I picked up a pair of hose which were half finished. Literally. One hose was done, the other was only pinned.
Tonight I finished the second one and I have a whole pair of hose, my second pair of sewn hose.

They look like... ungood. I've not tried them on properly. I'll probably pull them on and try for a photo tomorrow.

Anyway, sewn hose in a brown check are finished and will be used at events. Definitely need garters to keep from falling down, but that's fine, I have a lovely pair of red leather garters.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
So I went to sewing circle last Saturday and Helwig was working on some lovely tablet weaving from a new book. For some reason I seem to be able to see the patterns, and understand what is happeing and going wrong, so I helped her disentangle and wove a little bit. Which let me remember that I actually kind of like the actual tablet weaving experience.

I have done it before, once. I warped a brown and white cotton yarm which I wove into a "belt", for the bliaut I was making in 2004 (I think it was). The actual weaving was lovely and went fast. The warping was icky. Ever since I have wanted to make a silk girdle using turn-based patterns to weave something lovely that just shows up in the shading.

So I made up three patterns for turn-based letters for the three words of my motto: "facio, disco, gaudeo" using Guntram's Tablet Weaving Thingy. He had a gorgeous alphabet already made up, but it takes 40 tablets and I only have 39 tablets at present. Which meant I couldn't add edges. So, the patterns I made up consists of 20 tablets, plus two on either side as an edge.

The warping I did utilising a doorhandle and an over-the-door hanger which I could run between. I warped the 20 pattern tablets in black wool, and the four (2 + 2) edge tablets I warped in green wool. Today I threaded the tablets in and started the weaving using a black linen as my weft. I think I started my pattern a little too soon, before the tension had worked itself out and I'd gotten the braid a uniform width. However, that won't be too bad, as the shade differentiation between black wool leaning to the left and black wool leaning to the right is not very visible.

I've got one letter left to do on the first word (which is gaudeo, as they weave from right to left), and I am enjoying it as I remembered. However, the working position isn't the best. and I'm not entirely sure what I can make with the length I warped. It might become a belt. We'll see.

Also I measured out all the string for the other project I will be working on this weekend - which is edge-weaving on a red open chaperone, as seen on many ladies in ca 1400 illustrations. Not currently sure I want to do that with tablets or the lovely rigid heddle I got last year. I measured out enough yarn to fill eight tablets in any case, so I can make the call on Saturday.
liadethornegge: (vapen)
So, since I listed three perfectly reasonable projects I have on the slate in my last post I started a completely different one today.

I had time to start a new sewing project and my fingers were itching to do it - once I realized that, I pulled out my fabric stash and examined it. I noticed the cut of a yummy green wool twill, the same as my lord Edricus also bought, which I got a meter and a half of for a jacket to match. I pulled out a lovely black linen which is a very fine quality for the lining, and a coarser purple linen for interlining for the fronts as I want it to be a bit smoother than I've had it be previously.

I cut out the jacket, minus sleeves, in the wool, interlining and lining, and I officially have a sewing project to work on - whee!

I'm also registered for the Shire of Gyllengran's yearly A&S event Glötagillet, which is always nice and cozy. The theme there this year is finishing touches, and I'm planning on doing edge-weaving on the almost finished hood that has been almost finished for two years. Maybe it will finally get finished and I can start using it.
liadethornegge: (vapen)

Thanks to some misscommunication I got a lot of sewing done this morning and all of the construction seams are sewn (four out of six done on the machine) and felled (all by hand) on the new wool herjolfsnes dress.

 

Now I have to try it on and determine how I want the neckline to look and but our and sew sleeves.

liadethornegge: (vapen)

Seaming together the side gores. Two long pieces with a little piecing at the top. Going well. Seam on the machine and prickstitching the seam allowance down by hand.

 

liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
While in exile in the Frozen (again) I've been working on a couple of things. First, a chemise for which I got my Cudgel War fee paid - excellent trade by the way - and some wool applique for Queen Siobhan II and finally something for myself which will turn into a wool replacement of a linen gown I've had for five years.

The wool is a small length which I had gotten before to make a shawl out of. It's a houndstooth check in black and yellow with green, blue and red highlights. Not anything I'd make a "real" dress out of, but it's a gorgeous light flowing wool, which I will use to throw on when I set-up and tear-down camp at Visby. Or for the first thing to throw on when I arrive at an event and don't want to spend half an hour dressing.

The idea is to replace the linen gown I made to be a kitchen slave at a Coronet tourney with a slightly more accurate and light-weight version in wool, so I am using the Greenland finds again, Herjolfsnes 39 detailed online by Marc I. Carlsson. My previous version I have described as the most boring dress ever, and it is tagged as linen herjolfsnes here on LJ. This version will be herjolfsnes39 wool, and as the fabric is yummy I think I'll like it a little more.

So far, I have cut out body panels (50 cm wide, 140 cm long), and gores, about 110 cm long and will end up adding something like 50 cm in four places to the hem. The sleeves are as yet not cut out, I didn't bring any sleeve patterns with me so I will have to wing it. Luckily since this is a very simple and non-fitted dress this will not be a big problem.

My goal is to have this finished for Visby. We'll see how that goes :)
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Sewing circle this past Saturday was the first after Kingdom University and I had no idea what to do.

I had a think and decided it might be time to finish some of the projects that are almost finished. For example the hemp corded corset I have so far done all by hand and only lacks edging, and for another the blue brocade GFD which I cut out and started up in Frostheim quite some time ago now.

I brought both of these to the sewing circle, and come half way along the top of the corset, or stays after Queen Elizabeth's effigy. The last time I tried it on it didn't fit me properly and I got mad at it. Maybe it won't fit me properly now either, but if I at least finish it, I can tick that box and if needed throw it out. I am hoping to be able to build a wardrobe on top of it though, as it was more comfortable than my old pair of stays.

As for the blue brocade GFD I was much farther along on it than I had guessed. Basically I only had to do eyelets, close up a little more of the front seam, then fit sleeves and hem. So I started on the eyelets while we watched The Borgias. Pushing the awl through the entirely plastic (polyester) brocade and the fairly sturdy linen lining was not much fun, and I ended up with a bruise on my solar plexus as I used it to anchor the awl while I pulled the fabric towards me to open up the eyelets. Ouch.

I finished the eyelets on Sunday at home, and maybe I'll try it on today to see how it fits.
liadethornegge: (Default)
So I sent off some measurements and three photos to Atlantia, and I got back a pattern for a dress. I made this up into a garment that fit, pretty much without any alterations. This is me wearing it at Raglan Castle last weekend.

From the front:
2011RaglanVII_08-20_420
And from the back:
2011RaglanVII_08-20_418

I give it two thumbs up.

(Please ignore the 16th C shoes, I only had room in my bags to bring one pair, and brought mostly 16thC clothing!)

A hem

Jan. 28th, 2011 02:20 pm
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Once upon a time, a long time ago, I made a fully lined wool dress. The shell was a lovely black and red wool which reads as a dark plum, and the lining was a lovely soft yellow linen.

I had it almost finished at my first Double Wars (May 2005), there was only the hem left to do - which I did the night before the big court day with large basting stitches, and without cutting the length down to anything resembling appropriate.

I wore it like that for a bit until some of the large darning stitches started to run and some lining started to peek out.

At that point (June 2006) I took it in, ripped the temporary hem out, and ironed everything neatly and very carefully blindstitched the lining to the shell fabric to form an integral hem. And all was well.

I wore it to a few events, then the gown has languished on its hanger in my closet. I used it at Visby 2008 where I saw a picture of me in it and realized that the lining had seriously started to creep down. That shade of yellow is very visible when the lining is too long.

And now, finally, on Tuesday I brought the dress with me to sewing with Elizabeth here in Frostheim, and I ripped out the old, carefully stitched hem, I ironed the linen flat, and cut off up to an inch of excess length.

Then I proceeded to do a double fold them for the shell wool while we watched Shakespeare In Love, and on Wednesday after work I finished stitching a double-fold hem on the lining separately, making sure the lining is at least a finger shorter than the shell all around. The problem with a full skirt with lining not attached at the hem is that things can float a little too much and bunch up, so to combat this I attached the lining at every gore seam to the shell with a loop of thread about an inch long. This means that the layers will be kept together without forcing the issue.

Although hemming a gown is possibly the most boring thing in the world I feel it is worth it, because the dress itself is quite fabulous, and very versatile.

And so, the tale of the creeping hem is ended. For now.
liadethornegge: (Default)
There was no real need to get up very early today, so I didn't.

Last night I had packed my bag full of sewing goodness, as me and Elizabeth made plans to sew this afternoon. She needed to sleep after her night shift, and then had an appointment and at three she'd be ready for me.

I spent the morning looking at silly videos online, then headed in to town to drop off my mother at work, then drive on to the big pool in town where I proceeded to swim 1k. It took me longer than it used to take, but it wasn't all that difficult. I bought a 4-month-card which allows me to go as much as I want for the next four months. My plan is to make it a twice-weekly activity.

Then I went to one of the charity shops in town and found a cabling needle for my knitting, and a couple of tapestry needles for lacing up gowns.

Then it was off to sew with Elizabeth. SvartulvR was in Stockholm so not at home, and the two of us had a fabulous time chatting, having a lovely dinner, then tea and cookies. We watched Shakespeare In Love and it was awesome as usual.

As for my actual progress I have now ripped out the hem of my plum wool GFD, cut down the lining which had started to creep out in very unattractive ways, and have now re-hemmed the outer fabric and pinned the hem of the lining. This time, the lining is actually cut down, and I will hem them separately and only attach the lining to the shell at long intervals, not as it was previously hem them together as one.

I feel very pleased with this day.

A finish

Aug. 17th, 2010 01:38 pm
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Here we go, finally a picture of the cushion finished and stitched up. On the back is a piece of wool fleece, and in the middle is four or so layers of poly-fill which my mother had in her stash.

It's been well-used all Visby medieval week, cushioning bottoms and looking gorgeous.

Final date of finish: August 6, 2010. Tadaa!
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
The weekend of 3-4 July, two weeks ago, was the date for the Shire of Frostheim's Shoe Workshop, taught by and held at the home of Lord SvartulvR Kåte (and his lovely fiancé Elizabeth of Woodbury). Since I am in the frozen north, and luckily not working those two days I decided to join in the workshop fun.

I signed up, said I wanted to do a shoe appropriate for the early 15th Century, and made my plans. At the workshop we were set up with patterns and leather for uppers as well as sole-leather. There were twelve of us in attendance.

Come the weekend it turns out I didn't really want to make the model that fit the early 15th Century, I wanted to do the shoe styled after the Bocksten-man find, as that fits with my aesthetic sense of what my period shoes should look like. I'm probably horribly out-of-style, but I like them, so there. We used the fabulously practical and clear "Skoboken" for the patterns, which SvartulvR had copied to the appropriate sizes and cut out for us.

I cut out my shoes (ouch), and started sewing (gaah). As I double-checked my pieces I discovered I'd cut out two left shoe uppers - DOH! I was apparently the only one stupid enough to make that mistake. Thankfully there was enough leather that I could cut out a new right upper. The first shoe was finished early on day two (woohoo!), and I put it in water to soak along with a bunch of other peoples' shoes. We had all been quite focused and productive, and a couple of people actually finished both shoes during the workshop, turned and all. I rested a little from shoe-making after the first one and cut out a belt-pouch, then continued with the second shoe. Thanks to SvartulvR my left shoe was turned at the workshop and upon trying, fit quite well.

On Monday the 12th I went back to stitch with Elizabeth, and with her moral support I managed to finish up the second shoe. Although just after celebrating having stitched around the heel I realized that I'd forgotten the heel reinforcement - Doh! I had to stitch it in separately, but it ended up virtually invisible. I put it in water overnight and turned it the right way with the help of my mother and it fits even better than the first one.

I have re-wet both shoes and worn them until nearly dry today. They're finished enough to wear, but I intend to add a couple of finishing touches after the event/demo this week, Hägnan, I'm attending Wednesday evening to Saturday evening.

Re-project

Jun. 29th, 2010 10:39 pm
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Remember those pretty little pincushions I made last fall and gave away at christmas? I've decided that the second one of those was too pretty to not be mine - so I've just started a re-creation of that piece of embroidery. It'll be the same pattern, but I've tweaked the colours a little bit. It's going along fairly quickly.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
I've pretty much decided I will not be uploading all of my London photos to the 'net.

I think it's the fair thing to do, seeing as how museums allow photography with the intention that it's for private study. In the old days, a normal tourist would probably snap a few photos at museums, and put them in an album - an actual physical photoalbum. Today, with digital cameras and a million photosites on the internet the same procedure would sort of water-out the "deal" there.

I will be posting individual documentation images and such. And if I need to illustrate some point or other I will most definitely use the nearly two thousand images I have.

That's right, thousand, not hundred.

But that is not the reason for this post. The reason for this post is two-fold.
  1. After another massive cliff-hanger on True Blood I cannot sleep, and
  2. I have finished the red silk part of my current brick-stitch project.
It is only proper to stop, appreciate the moment and pat yourself on the back for some accomplishments. Next up is filling in the blue. To confuse everyone the original is red and green, and the parts that are green in the original I am stitching in red, and the red in the original will on my version be blue. The white linen stays, because that's what makes the pattern (in my opinion). That's my breakthrough.

Tomorrow I am going over to some locals and hopefully I can get going on a new sewing project. More on that another day.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
It's meant to be a pouch for me!

ETA: I also counted the threads, and this fabric is a lovely even 40 threads/inch.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
If you recall, I made a simple working apron a few weeks ago. I got an off-cut from Medeltidsmode, and it was just enough for an apron. Well, I took out my tripod and took pictures just now, and here we are:

From 15th Century Accessories
Details from the apron, left to right: Smocking, ligature LT on inside of ties, initials LT at bottom right corner of apron. I felt I needed to mark it thoroughly or risk giving it away to someone in a fit of unbridled generosity. I need a rough and ready apron for my own use.

liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
I apologise for the severe lack of anything interesting to read here. But there's nothing of interest to report and write about from my part of the world.

The sun hides and shines in shifts, I drive all day, sleep all night.

I have a pretty silver seeblatt inverted, which I adore. That's marginally interesting. To me it's fabulous.

Visby transportation details .... almost sorted. There was a big collision between two Gotland ferries, so all re-bookings have been suspended and I don't know when they'll be opening the phone lines again. I'm hoping before we go home.

I have also decided that I refuse to be stressed about it. It is going to suck to do the turn-arounds to go there and home, but I'll live. This year I will try to make it to Aleydis's lecture(s). I have also made sure that my shift at the gate does not coincide with court, which the newly published schedule made possible.

I plan on bringing mostly my 15th C wardrobe to Visby, now I have more than one pretty dress, and can vary. Still don't have warm-warm evening/night clothes.

I wish I could go to pennsic. One day that particular SCAdian pilgrimage will be made by me as well.

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Lia de Thornegge

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