liadethornegge: (vapen)
... can be found over at the new wordpress blog: here.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I will be finished with my gown by then. I will, I will, I will.

Actually, I don't have too terribly much left. I managed to stitch in the skirt entirely this week, as well as finish off the front closure with hooks and eyes over the lacing.

Still left to do, at sewing circle tomorrow, is evening up the hem, and hemming. Cutting out and making up a pair of huge sleeves and applying miles of black satin trim. The hem will go quickly, the trim will be dull but go quickly, the making of sleeves will be a pain in the behind.

So the plan for tomorrows sewing circle is

  1. put on the dress to have the hem measured out evenly

  2. invent and draft sleeve pattern

  3. For extra credit, make up toile sleeve in cotton (unsure if I'm going for extra credit)

  4. cut out actual sleeves and start making them.



I think that I will have to do boring hemming and trim application at home, during the week.

I also have some scribal things to finish for Spring Crown, special commission work. I'm writing up invitations for an invitational HF tourney at Double Wars. They've been fun to do, although doing ten identical ones is a little tedious.

At Spring Crown, when the dress will be finished, I will come turned out in an all new outfit. New red knitted stockings, new red knitted half-gloves, new black wool gown and new oxblood red leather shoes. It's going to be awesome, and I can't wait! It will be my first time in Polderslot (The Netherlands).
liadethornegge: (research)
So I hang out mostly on facebook these days. It happend a couple of years ago, everyone moved their event photos to facebook, and the social life moved along with it as well. So to keep myself updated, in the loop and able to see ALL THE EVENT PHOTOS FROM EVERYWHERE! I created my account and started migrating. The migration was not conscious, but it's what happens.

Anyway, lately I've hung out on one group called Elizabethan Costume, which unlike most other forums of over one thousand participants, is actually a civil place with a high signal-to-noise ratio. The other day one of the cooler people on there, Mathew Gnagy, posted a very rough version of a method to draft a 16th century female bodice based on a few measurements.

I downloaded the pdf immediately and poured over it. I took out an old newspaper, a tape measure and pens and drafted myself up a bodice pattern. Then I checked back on the group and discovered that one of the points I felt unsure about was mis-labeled and one measurement was "upside down". A new version of the drafting instructions was available. I poured over that, took my measurements again and did a second draft of a bodice.

After doing the first one I was glad that my internet had a little hiccup, because it was one of the few times I've felt non-content with the shape of my body.

On Saturday the first official sewing meeting of the year kicks off, and I will get new measurements and draft up a third version of the bodice, with the help of Helwig. I will likewise help her, and we will really get rolling on our new communal project. Gowns from 1575 England.

Social Media, what's it good for? Apparently some things.
liadethornegge: (vapen)
So, since I listed three perfectly reasonable projects I have on the slate in my last post I started a completely different one today.

I had time to start a new sewing project and my fingers were itching to do it - once I realized that, I pulled out my fabric stash and examined it. I noticed the cut of a yummy green wool twill, the same as my lord Edricus also bought, which I got a meter and a half of for a jacket to match. I pulled out a lovely black linen which is a very fine quality for the lining, and a coarser purple linen for interlining for the fronts as I want it to be a bit smoother than I've had it be previously.

I cut out the jacket, minus sleeves, in the wool, interlining and lining, and I officially have a sewing project to work on - whee!

I'm also registered for the Shire of Gyllengran's yearly A&S event Glötagillet, which is always nice and cozy. The theme there this year is finishing touches, and I'm planning on doing edge-weaving on the almost finished hood that has been almost finished for two years. Maybe it will finally get finished and I can start using it.
liadethornegge: (research)
I have in my stash plenty of fabric to make some new and awesome outfits.

I have a cut of grey wool to make a replacement grey wool layton jacket for the one I shrunk in the washing machine. It was an awesome jacket, with special button loops that I made as a 5-loop fingerloop (flat, round flat). I loved that jacket. And I shrunk it in the washine machine. But I'm totally over that now. I have the nice buttons left from the old jacket.

I have two cuts of black wool to make base kirtles. Front lacing, low square opening, some stiffening, possible pockets. Possibly with a plaquet in front to conceal the front lacing.

I have dark brown silk, and brown/bronze polyester brocade to make a high-class outfit. Maybe for a 1575 project. Which probably needs a new farthingale. Also new corset, maybe finish one of the two (2) I have started but not finished. I finally made a pinterest board for this project.

The first two are not exceptionally inspiring, but I miss a good jacket. The black kirtles would mean I would finally have a base layer that I can use with every other outer garment I already have. The third is more of a Project, more tricky bits and not entirely transparent to me right now.

All I have to do is decide which one to pick. Which one to pick..
liadethornegge: (garb)
So, in the early days of the Internets, when rocks were soft and I was just starting out making 16th Century clothes there were two websites we would all go to. Festive Attyre and The Elizabethan Costuming Page. I was honoured to be a Featured Attyre with my first (and so far only) full Tudor court gown, with fur-lined turn-back sleeves and everything.

Yesterday I was even more honoured that my red petticoat was picked by Drea Leed to be the example of what a petticoat is: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/blog/elizabethan-petticoats/

I have been going Squee! like a total fangirl all morning :)
liadethornegge: (vapen)
My formal title of Shirt-maker remains. Although this time not for anyone high and mighty, but instead absolutely lovely.

The last four years a very lovely lady has picked me, Helwig and our luggage up from the train station in Hässleholm and delivered us the final stretch to Double Wars. She does so selflessly and happily, and it's about time we make her something nice. So I suggested a shirt, which she can use to build her 16th century wardrobe on.

I got her measurements sometime in the fall, but was too busy with vigil and things to do anything about it. And then also working to prepare for Spring Crown. Now, there is an open vista leading up to Double Wars and I have looked through my stash and found a cut of linen (#42) which when cut up went perfectly into a shirt for this delightful lady.

The pieces were cut on Wednesday and I have already stitched the gusset to sleeves, and attached the sleeves to the body. Shoulder seams are done, and I am currently felling the second of the sleeve attachment seams. After that, it's just finishing off with collar and cuffs and making the front slit. We might embroider - it's not decided yet.

It was great fun to lay the fabric out and cut and start stitching.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So I finally managed to persuade my lord that he wants a later period outfit, and convinced him that a pair of nice comfortable galligaskins, a sleeveless jerkin to hold up the pants, a doublet over that and a skirted jerkin as warm outerwear is the way to go. He is concentrating on getting the knives that goes with that outfit, the belt and pouch, shoes and accessories. Once he realized he could add to his sharp-things collection he was on board.

We went through his fabric stash and found a suitable green wool twill. He has used the fabric already to make a pair of 14th Century hose, and thought it was too loosely woven so we put it in the washing machine before we even started. This meant the cut that was left shrunk a little bit, and I ended up having to reduce the original size of the trouser legs, and add some piecings.

Piecing is totally period though, and with such small bits needed was fairly quick to attach as well. I used silk sewing thread to stitch the wool throughout. Starting with green, then switching to black when I ran out of green. Mostly, the thread disappears into the wool, so the tint doesn't really matter so long as it's dark enough.

The outer wool I patterned to be about three times the width of his waist, and the cuffs about twice the width of the knees. They should end at the knees, but the outer wool should bag a little, so I made them too long by about twenty centimetres. That meant that in order for the trousers to end at the knees the lining had to be made to fit. I basically cut those out as a pair of tight shorts, starting from the same pattern that we had made a toile of for the outer, cutting them down to fit closely to the leg, and end at the knee.

I first put together the linen lining, needing no piecings, and making them as carefully as I could to minimize the bulk of felled seams. I pressed every seam allowance to either side and folded them under in a double fold hem basically. There is not too much pressure put on these seams, so backstitching with waxed linen thread will keep them together just fine.

Before I could mount the legs to the waistband I had to put in the pockets. They are basically a rectangle with the lower third of one edge cut in a curve inward. That edge is where the opening is, and while I just used a backstitch to close up the rectangle I simply folded back the edges of the opening and pinned them to either side of the side-seams in the galligaskins. You have to be quite careful to stitch the pockets in, so it is firmly attached to both sides of the seam, and also make sure to reinforce the side seam where it needs to open for the pocket. I usually do a buttonhole bar across the small distance for strength. Both side pockets has the upper edge straight along the waistline, and I basted this to the linen lining carefully so that they would stay in the right position and not swing down.

Then I made a waistband all in wool with a linen interlining basted onto the wool and onto this waistband I mounted the trousers. I had to make one pleat in the linen to get the required width around. After this I could then mount the wool onto the waistband. It was pleated all the way around to distribute the fullness of the trousers at the waist. Basically I made box pleats out of the entire width, then closed up the upper raw edges of the legs inside the woolen waistband.

For the cuffs I did not have as much fullness to distribute, and I also made sure to leave the inside half of the legs, in between the knees, flat. There is no extra width here, as it would be very uncomfortable to have extra fabric in between your legs. So the pleats in the wool went all around the outside halves. For the cuff I had linen on the inside and wool on the outside making a finished cuff of just under an inch in width. The waistband ended up almost two inches high.

The fly closing was the last to be finished and for that I made a little buttonhole placket, with five buttonholes which I mounted on the outside of one side of the opening, and five self-fabric buttons which I mounted on the other side. The waistband itself I chose to close with two hooks and eyes to keep it as flat as possible, as the waistband right in the front is rather thick with many layers of wool.

I tried them on myself and looked especially fetching. They were also very comfy. Ed has tried them on as well, and they are now safely stored away in his historical clothes chest. He's a very poor model, so I haven't got any decent photos. I suspect I will not get any until the entire outfit is done and he can adorn it with his sharp things.

Still, an entire project started and finished!
liadethornegge: (garb)
So on Saturday I made the pattern, on Sunday and Monday I created the lining which will keep the galligaskins (gathered trousers) hanging at the right heigh and pouf appropriately. Today I cut out the wool outer fabric, having to add piecings on account of not having quite enough fabric. I also reduced the width of my pattern by two and a half inches in the waist (a total reduction in width at the waist of ten inches) still leaving the waist more than twice the width of the actual measurement.

I've stitched in the piecings, and sewn up the legs into tubes, felling all seam allowances down with herringbone stitch and a prick stitch. Just now I have the two legs stacked one inside the other to sew up the crotch seam and I'm feeling pretty good. I've taken a few in progress pictures which I will be posting later on.

I'm using silk thread to stitch the wool, the linen lining I used linen thread for. I still haven't cut out waistband or edge binding for the knees. I've also left the trouser legs open on the outside for the last two or three inches - in case I need to add buttons there for accesss.

The side seams are prepared for pockets as well - I basted the upper part of the seams before felling the edges so I can easily pick the stitches out and insert the pockets. I think I will want to do that before I gather the wool to the lining and waistband. But the waistband and gathering has to wait until I have my model here to try them on. That's what I had planned to do at Sewing Circle on Saturday and I am exactly where I need to be to be able to do it as well.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
Hosted scribal night around my kitchen table tonight. Alfhilde, currently the Signet of Nordmark, asked if I could do something soon - this was yesterday - and I said sure.

So tonight she came on over and I did the calligraphy on one backlogged scroll, an AoA. I used a basic textura hand and wrote out a fairly long text with no hand cramping problems at all. I attribute this to the two weeks of continual practice I put in in the beginning of December as a part of Lady Kerttu's initiative "Drachenwald 30 day challenge" which meant doing some one thing every day for thirty days. She wanted to learn a calligraphy hand and I thought I could do the same so I started learning an alphabet of capital letters. I got bored of that after the first few days so for the next ten days I wrote out little poems, rhymes and a letter using the new capital letter alphabet as well as my go-to batarde hand. I only managed 13 consequtive days before it got untenable. The problem I have with any craft in my home is that it's very small, and there are two of us here, so I can't just leave everything out on the kitchen table all the time, because then there is no room for us to eat.

Anyway, thanks to those two weeks of practice I got much better at handling the pen, and at writing the letters (obviously), so now, even thought the text was quite long, I had no problems at all with my hand cramping.

I took a picture of the finished item (#53 on my internal count), but it still needs signatures and giving out. I'll wait until it's been handed out to post it.

I also worked on a couple of my own backlogs, a PCS, which is entirely finished now, and a commission piece which just needs a little bit of penwork to be completely finished.

------------------

In other news, I've been sewing for Edricus lately. After some convincing he has agreed that he could possibly consider wearing some late period clothes. He wants a practical mid-16th century outfit with leg coverings to the knees not too poufy and not too tight, a warm practical doublet and a warm practical coat, plus a pimp coat. He's very into the pimp coat, and when I told him there's cotton velvet at the local fabric shop available he got very excited about the idea of a pimp coat. Basically, what he means is a Learned Man's Gown as we'd call it. He insist on pimp coat, though, and he's soo excited I let him have it.

Anyway, I started in the trouser-department, only because I laughed all through making my Venetians a few years back and I still grin whenever I see a picture of them, or think of me in them. (They are hilarious! I wore them one day at Visby this past summer, and every time a certain Chevalier walked past me he couldn't help himself from bipping the codpiece. I suggested he had one of his own to squeeze if he felt the need - he blushed, I lolled.)

Anyway, (I have to stop these ellipses), I was immediately inspired by the fabulous facebook group Elizabethan Costume, and one person there in particular who posted a picture of one pattern layout from the Anduxar pattern book which was a pair of trousers and a doublet laid out. They seemed to create the sort of look I was after so I measured my man and drafted the pattern according to the layout. I did this at last week's sewing circle, then I cut out the one leg and had him try it on and with a little bit of tweaking I had a pattern.

On Sunday I continued by making a pattern for the lining of the trousers, or "galligaskins". Since the outer fabric is meant to be gathered and pouf a little, the lining has to be a little shorter to allow the outer fabric to flow and fold nicely. I took the base pattern I created on Saturday, adjusted the length and waistband to fit Edricus more closely, tried them on and had to adjust the crotch seam. I made it deeper in front and shallower in back, and I also cut down the height of the front waist by about an inch. Then I cut this out in linen and machine basted them together. After trying them on I could also determine where the fly should start (lower than where I had stitched them).

On Sunday and Monday I took the linen lining apart and handstitched it back together, felling all seams. I have yet to cut out the outer fabric - but it will be in a forest green wool which we pre-washed to felt it a little bit. It shrunk, though, so I will have to piece the trousers. But seeing as the layout in Anduxar shows the trousers pieced there as well I am not too bothered about that. The only problem now is how exactly I should cut them from the fabric. Edricus also wants pockets, which will go in the sides, so I could cut them to include a side seam. I have laid the fabric and pattern out on my floor and started with the puzzle, but it fought me, and if I continue now, after the scribal night, I'm afraid I'd make silly mistakes. The plan will have to be to cut it from the cloth tomorrow.

Edricus is away in Visby the entire week, so I can't fit them on him until Saturday when the next sewing meetings is scheduled. I expect to be laughing all that day too :)
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
I have started a smallish embroidery - a doodle-cloth for me to experiment with Elizabethan raised stitches. I drew it out a while ago, not sure when, to be a nightcap shaped pincushion. It'll be big-ish for a pincushion, but small enough that I will finish it in some sort of reasonable time.

I got a top of wool sent to me from Australia, and am using that to stuff the ground covering stitches, to make it raised. For normal leaves and the smaller items a very small amount of wool fills them up nicely. I just strung it up in my big slate frame because I got tired of my tiny round frames, and it is so much nicer to work embroidery on the proper frame.

For the most part I intend to outline with chain stitch which I can anchor the other stitches to, but I've done a couple of shapes with no outlines done first following the stitch diagrams in the book "Elizabethan Stitches" by Jacqui Carey.
liadethornegge: (Default)
At sewing circle on Saturday I finished a project! I think it has been in-progress for a handful of years. It's a simple caul, made from the first one which is the only one that has fit me properly since I made it. But the first one has visible selvedge in the band. Not very attractive. Anyway, I found it in a bag, forgotten, and pleated the crown to the band and topstitched all around the band to finish it neatly. I've even got a picture of it:

liadethornegge: (Default)
I have been very bad about updating my livejournal. Partly because writing updates on facebook is much faster, partly because I've been working on "secret" projects so couldn't update continually without spoiling things. Partly because LJ has lost some of its readership to the aforementioned fb, me included.

My 39:th project: AoAAh well, there is plenty to talk about now then. I've done scrolls, quite a few.
I did a backlog scroll for Elisabeth Gottfridsdotter. She received her AoA at Midsummer Coronation in 2009 from Franz and Willhelmina, and this spring I took over the backlog and finished it for her as number 39 (here before gilding).

My 40:th project: Vita Portens Väktare40 (to the left), 41 and 42 were all given out at Nordmark Coronet (Stigot's VPV, SvartulvR and Elizabeth's viscounty) plus a prize scroll which I forgot to number it gets to be #47. It was the prize scroll for the A&S Competition, and went to Niamh.

#43 was a Court Barony with Grant of Arms for Felicitas Schwartzenbergin that she got upon stepping down as Gotvik Baroness at St Egon. I had no time to also make Clemen's CB scroll which irks me a little, but that's reality.

#44 was filling in the calligraphy on a blank scroll, Lali Ingermarsdotter received a Ljusorden (Nordmark A&S award) also given at St Egon.

The Queen (Siobhan) went off to an event down in Frankmark on her own and two gentles down there received Award of Arms, so Franck vom Berg and Carrisma vom Berg got scrolls 45 and 46. Thankfully I only had to do calligraphy for those as the Queen had a couple of blanks ready.

At Double Wars I was roped into some stunt scribing - doing calligraphy on two scrolls. One backlog for Eira and Torbjörn given to Hroald Pai (48) and a PCS for Vitus Flavius (#49). These two I have no pictures of at all unfortunately. I didn't have the wits about me to take pictures of them.

For Double Wars I also made a shirt for Sir William of Richwood's vigil, and a table-runner with his device, initials and a Knight's chain. I also half-finished a napkin with a Dragon Rose emblem. I chose to do a slightly too large rose to be able to finish it, so I am still working on it. Stigot won it in the raffle at the end of the war, so I know where it needs to end up :)

Backing up again, I finished a black (cotton) velvet 16th C gown for Nordmark Coronet Tourney which might be my new favourite item of clothing. It's wool-lined so nice and warm, it fits just right, and has sleeves. Plus it fills the slot of 'black velvet gown' that I've needed in my wardrobe. I wore it in the pretty dismal weather conditions at the Coronet and was not even a little cold where it covered me. And it looks pretty good too.


Silk painting: Finished flagDuring the Easter holidays we booked a little household activity: painting silk standards. Isabetta did most of the preparations and brought the paints, gutta, brushes, paper for templates and she and William purchased lumber for frames. Me and Edricus and Helwig and Johann rounded out the numbers and we worked pretty much a full day on Friday, Sunday and Monday to paint eight silk standards. We each made a personal one and me and Helwig cooperated to make two household standards with the remaining two bits of silk. Mine still needs to be hemmed and attach a sleeve to put it on a pole. William, Isabetta and Edricus' standards all flew at Double Wars, and the two household flags were set up in William's vigil tent and looked awesome.

I also made a little patchwork pouch for Kerstin of Medeltidsmode. The pincushion I made for myself was stuffed with fabric samples from her, and the remaining pieces of wool samples I made up into a little bag, lined it with more of her summer-weight wool and then I braided a silk drawstring for it. She liked it when I handed it over to her at Double Wars :) The only picture of that one though, is from a distance and not very good. Again, I finished it on site and forgot to take my camera out!

Lately I've been working on a bit of leather tooling. I took a class during Double Wars, and it de-mystified the craft for me and gave me the courage to try it. I'm going to enter my first piece in the Kingdom A&S Competition at Coronation. Just because I was already going to write documentation to go with it, and a deadline is sometimes a good thing. It's supposed to also be a "secret" project, so until it reaches the recipient I won't post photos. Also, it's not 100% finished either :)

And now, I will post the above, and go see about uploading photos to update this post with shortly.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
I am still a little foggy as I've been well struck-down with a cold after the Coronet Tourney my shire put on this weekend. But I have some things to report.

Firstly, the pincushion cube is completely finished and put to use already, and it's working out just as well as I had hoped. And the side with raised embroidery worked out even better, because I can store sewing needles through the raised bits, without them falling out, or disappearing into the cube. Double-score. Although my next pincushion will be a little bit shorter, and twice as wide as it is deep, and I will design the raised embroidery better to catch the tips of needles.

Secondly, I did three scrolls for this weekend, one Principality level fighting award for Lord Stigot, and the viscounty scrolls for the departing couple SvartulvR and Elizabeth. I did all three in a grant letter style, so basically all calligraphy. For Stigot's I did paint a white portal in the initial letter, though, using fake gold leaf which I just got and had to try out.

For the Viscounty scrolls I doodled in the initial letter, and added a few personal touches in the scrollwork. I also made them on real parchment. I'm pleased with the results for all three, and the recipients seemed to appreciate them :) They only lack seals, and I know SvartulvR has a kit to attach it to theirs. I might see if I can talk to someone local to add it to Stigot's.

I also finished a new dress for this weekend. I bought a black cotton velvet bedspread in Morjärv once upon a time... thinking I could turn it into a 16th Century gown, and I finally did. Most construction seams are done on the machine, and I patterned the bodice after my red kirtle which I adore. And since I wore the black gown all day Saturday with no discomfort or ill effect I now also adore this black one. I had a beige and black trim in my stash which I decorated the bodice with, also as a decoration around the hem, and down the seams in the sleeves. Ah, yes, it is long-sleeved, square necked, and has a slight dip in the front bodice where the skirt lies flat. The back panel of the skirt is gathered using knife pleats all pointing towards the centre back. For once I also remembered to have someone take nice photos of me in the new dress :)

I unfortunately do not have pictures of these items ready to post yet. But figured I should update this poorly neglected blog with some happy news.

At Nordmark Coronet Tourney and Aros Spring Sword and Buckler II our little household grew! Helwig took a fourth apprentice in Lady Isabetta del Verde. Which was awesome.

And I got to see Viscountess Filippa's gift-wrapping-paper dress of much bling and there was joy.

Also - no longer a lady-in-waiting! Yay! Although I loved serving SvartulvR and Elizabeth - they are good people.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Although last Saturday wasn't an official sewing circle day I still went over to The Laurel to get some help with fitting, as the black velvet petticoat had progressed at home to the stage where that was needed.

At the first sewing circle of the year I cut it out, at home I cut the bodice to the same pattern as my red wool petticoat, a little larger though. And then I made two half-front panels with boning channels in. I stitched them to the shell and interlining in one parallel line and one oblique, which will be covered with a nice trim eventually. After I stitched them in I could finally lace the bodice on, and Helwig helped me in deciding the waistline. I had to take up the back a full inch, and in the sides I took it up 1/8th of an inch.

The state of the project now is that I actually have to decide what to use to line the skirt - the options are plain linen, shiny brocade and thin wool which I have in the stash already, or acetate which I would need to buy. I'm leaning towards the brocade for the skirt and wool for the bodice. Will make a decision before Saturday's sewing circle.

Now for the second new project of the year, which is an embroidery piece. Last summer I planned out a 5x5x5cm pincushion cube with embroidery on all six faces, and I even prepared the ground fabric for it. It's been collecting dust on my shelf for a good long while now. So on Sunday I took it down, and mounted it in the table-mounted round frame and started in! The first side I made is the Nordmark populace badge, which I executed in brick stitch in the 30/2 silk threads I got in London.
The second side I stitched in the same silk,outlining the two letters L T in stem stitch in green, and filling in the background in an all-over brick stitch (pattern by Kathy Storm) using black, white and green. The letters themselves are currently empty, but I'm considering how to fill them in, and if I even ought to fill them in.
The third side which I just started last night after scribal night is going to be my own arms, I'm doing that by outlining the colour areas with stem stitch, and filling in the colours in solid brick stitch taken over 4 threads, offset 2 threads per row. I started with the two white seeblätter, and stopped at the beginning of the black seeblatt.
liadethornegge: (Default)
I have been very bad about posting on livejournal lately, but I have tried to keep my list of finished projects fairly up-to-date. The backdated post which I started early last year and dated to the 31st of december. I haven't added all scribal work to that list, but I'll try to do that soon. Tonight I will host the first scribal night of the year, and hope to continue with them regularly as well. I still think that seventeen items is a fairly good result for one year, even if none are finished items of clothing for myself, not counting accessories.

Hopefully, this year I will finish garments! I've started a new 16th Century base garment. A black velvet petticoat, which will fill the same niche as my red wool petticoat. At the first sewing circle of the year, this past Saturday (the 7th) I cut out the skirt panels using my standard petticoat skirt pattern which is based on Alcega. The bodice had to wait til I got home, because I'd brought the wrong pattern. At home on Sunday I cut out the bodice using the same pattern as my red petticoat, that pattern is one piece. There are no seams in the sides, and no seam in the back. Therefore it is a front-lacing bodice.
I like how I made the red petticoat with a sub-layer which has a little stiffening and the lacing holes and the top fabric is closed over the lacing using hooks and eyes. I will do pretty much the same thing with this black kirtle.

The bodice was cut as one piece in the velvet, then I dug out some unbleached linen and cut the interlining. I had to do that in two pieces because the linen was a remnant. I attached the interlining to the shell with herringbone stitch all around, including up the centre back where I only went through the shell at top and bottom. And then I turned my attention to the stiffening.

Since I want to be able to wear it as a single layer gown, it needs some stiffening and so I cut out two half-fronts in double layers of a gorgeous goose-eye linen twill (same as the lining for SvartulvR's Laurel-tunic) and stitched four channels; one at the front edge, then a gap, then two more parallell to that and one slanting from the edge of the shoulder strap to the front. I inserted the usual plastic zip ties that are ideal for boning and I'm currently working on eyelets on these two sides. I'm putting them one inch apart (11 per side). After I've done them I'll be looking at attaching them to the shell somehow. I am envisioning one slanted seam through interlining and shell and one straight up seam just outside the second boning channel. And on the outside I will cover these seams with some nice trim, maybe black satin tape. The idea is that it should be all black and details in different textures. And then I will have to decide what to use to line the bodice and skirt.

Pictures

Sep. 15th, 2011 07:56 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
I've updated my finished-list with picture of my red knitted cap, and my new cotton/linen shirt. The images are in my picasa-album of 16th Century accessories
liadethornegge: (Default)
At the Aros Fencing Camp I started knitting a flat cap according to Mistress Helwig's instructions. I finished it in the last week, and the only thing missing was the felting, or fulling rather. I made one in red using six whole skeins of the yarn and it turned out rather large.

Yesterday I went over to Helwig's place to sew and hang out, and she had the right detergent to do machine fulling so we threw the red flat cap into the washing machine on 60 degrees. When it came out it was still rather larger than needful and not as fulled as I wanted it, so we returned it to the machine and it went through again and after the second cycle it came out pretty nice!

I ironed it, and then we put it on a marble-top table underneath six volumes of an encyclopedia to make it nice and even.

My very kind Laurel also finished for me a knitted flat cap in a grey tone which wishes it was black (as per my request) and threw that in the machine as well. It only needed to be washed once to achieve an even higher degree of fulling than did the red one. Our theory is that the black yarn was much less treated than the red. The dyeing process probably battered the former a bit more, and the dark grey may well be a natural color, so took less effort to full.

I ironed that one as well, and added that to the stack out on the marble-top table.

So I went to a craft day with one almost finished flat cap and came away with two entirely finished ones!

I also finished the shirt for Lord Edricus, and got a few stitches nearer on finishing my own cotton/linen blend summer shirt. *sigh* But it was so boring I nearly died, despite having True Blood to watch.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Not quite the ultimate truth, but not a lie either.

The last year and a half I have not been doing very much in terms of projects for the SCA. I've been busy doing other things. In the spring of this year I took over a kingdom office, and have had some added paperwork and administration to deal with there. I was going to do scribal work, but lacked the appropriate set-up to get things going. I started two dress projects without getting anywhere, but I did do some embroidery and smaller projects.

I have been fairly good at updating the Project Finished list that I've got posted at the top of my LJ, so you can see there the items I have finished this year. The main one being the metal thread embroidered coif.

I have also finished one Viking shirt for my new liege lord, Prince SvartulvR. Ah, yes, SvartulvR won the Nordmark Coronet Tourney for his lady wife, Elizabeth of Woodbury, and I had told them before the tourney that if they won I would be happy to assist them as a lady-in-waiting. They did win, I repeated my offer, and Elizabeth accepted it before I had even finished my sentence :) They did only the bare minimum at their investiture court, but SvartulvR was at Visby to accept oaths of fealty, so I went in and pledged my service for the reign in such matters as the King and Queen does not already have my oath.

Before the Coronet Tourney I had also brought with me some belt fittings which I asked SvartulvR to make copies of for me, so for that work I had already promised him a shirt of my making. I took measurements and finished it by Visby. I haven't seen him in it, but it should fit well enough. So one more shirt for the high and mighty done :)

I also made about ten little bags of black wool, lined with linen, fitted with drawstrings to close them and carrying straps to suspend them from belts etc. I made them to give away as prizes at the Kingdom A&S Competition, and as thank you tokens for the judges. I think they were appreciated. I made the drawstrings etc out of fingerloop braids in the Kingdom colours.

I also made one larger bag for myself using my colours (black, green and white) to use as a new sewing supplies bag. It is pretty spiffy, even if I do say so myself. The red cloth bag I have been using up until now is note quite colour fast and has discoloured a couple of projects before. Also the fabric in that is a Christmas theme fabric, so I'm glad to retire it.

I also made a cotton/linen blend shirt for my Laurel, Mistress Helwig. Kerstin of Medeltidsmode.se had some light-weight fabric with her to Double Wars which lots of us purchased. Helwig and me among them. I took some of her yardage and turned it into a shirt for her, with neck and cuff frills, and her initial embroidered on the front panel. I have also started and almost finished one for myself. Currently I'm stuck at the step of gathering the neck ruff into the collar. Boring!

I also made some new stuff for my Visby encampment. Chief among them a seat cushion for my break-down bench, two pillow-cases for throw cushions and one carrying bag with shoulder strap, all out of the same gorgeous cotton fabric I found at Ohlsons Tyger&Stuvar. The bench cushion can be seen here in situ on the bench in camp at Visby (look for the blue and white fabric in the lower left corner).

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Lia de Thornegge

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