liadethornegge: (garb)
I will be finished with my gown by then. I will, I will, I will.

Actually, I don't have too terribly much left. I managed to stitch in the skirt entirely this week, as well as finish off the front closure with hooks and eyes over the lacing.

Still left to do, at sewing circle tomorrow, is evening up the hem, and hemming. Cutting out and making up a pair of huge sleeves and applying miles of black satin trim. The hem will go quickly, the trim will be dull but go quickly, the making of sleeves will be a pain in the behind.

So the plan for tomorrows sewing circle is

  1. put on the dress to have the hem measured out evenly

  2. invent and draft sleeve pattern

  3. For extra credit, make up toile sleeve in cotton (unsure if I'm going for extra credit)

  4. cut out actual sleeves and start making them.



I think that I will have to do boring hemming and trim application at home, during the week.

I also have some scribal things to finish for Spring Crown, special commission work. I'm writing up invitations for an invitational HF tourney at Double Wars. They've been fun to do, although doing ten identical ones is a little tedious.

At Spring Crown, when the dress will be finished, I will come turned out in an all new outfit. New red knitted stockings, new red knitted half-gloves, new black wool gown and new oxblood red leather shoes. It's going to be awesome, and I can't wait! It will be my first time in Polderslot (The Netherlands).
liadethornegge: (vapen)
Preparations for tomorrow's sewing circle. I bought some sturdy cotton to make a toile or two out of. I am so excited! Yay!
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Sewing circle this past Saturday was the first after Kingdom University and I had no idea what to do.

I had a think and decided it might be time to finish some of the projects that are almost finished. For example the hemp corded corset I have so far done all by hand and only lacks edging, and for another the blue brocade GFD which I cut out and started up in Frostheim quite some time ago now.

I brought both of these to the sewing circle, and come half way along the top of the corset, or stays after Queen Elizabeth's effigy. The last time I tried it on it didn't fit me properly and I got mad at it. Maybe it won't fit me properly now either, but if I at least finish it, I can tick that box and if needed throw it out. I am hoping to be able to build a wardrobe on top of it though, as it was more comfortable than my old pair of stays.

As for the blue brocade GFD I was much farther along on it than I had guessed. Basically I only had to do eyelets, close up a little more of the front seam, then fit sleeves and hem. So I started on the eyelets while we watched The Borgias. Pushing the awl through the entirely plastic (polyester) brocade and the fairly sturdy linen lining was not much fun, and I ended up with a bruise on my solar plexus as I used it to anchor the awl while I pulled the fabric towards me to open up the eyelets. Ouch.

I finished the eyelets on Sunday at home, and maybe I'll try it on today to see how it fits.
liadethornegge: (website)
Blowing off some cobwebs and updating my website! There's lots of stuff I just haven't gotten around to posting there. Shameful. Anyway I am well on the way to finishing the A&S 50 Depth challenge I set myself. Also, there's a dress diary for my black velvet gown... and some links.

So check it out, eh

Will be posting a new monthly article on the shire website on Saturday as well. Unfortunately they're only going to be in Swedish. But I know I have some Swedish readers here as well who might be interested :)

Projects..

Aug. 28th, 2012 09:45 pm
liadethornegge: (aros)
I didn't mention before the additional project I meant to finish for my vigil - but it is one from the list of started ones: A wool applique banner. I bought green, black and white wool, half a metre each (or was it one?) to make a banner for myself .... and I don't even remember when, where or from whom I got the fabric. It might have been at Double Wars?

In any case, I had made the pattern and cut out the fields way back, and made a pattern for the seeblätter but not cut those out. My original plan was to use intarsia embroidery to fit the seeblätter into the fields, but when I picked up the project yesterday I abandoned that and decided to applique them instead. I used blanket stitch in white to attach the white seeblätter, and blanket stitch in black for the black one. I used a simple backstitch with about 5 mm seam allowance to attach the field pieces together, felled those seams to either side and topstitched them from the outside to keep it all flat and streamlined.

The only thing left now is to line it and manufacture suspension options. Pictures will come tomorrow.

While finishing the applique I changed it up a little and finished the sewing table that arrived at my door yesterday. I needed some finishing touches on the centre bolt that attaches the tabletop to the leg. It was left unfinished by my father by my request so I could make it into a pincushion like my inspiration-images showed. So first I glued down a piece of foam mat my father sent with the table, then I cut out ten or so layers of wool circles in full size, a couple about half size and a couple even smaller circles, plus a large circle to put on top. The bolt was prepared for a thickness of fabric to be folded over to the underside, so I applied glue here and pulled the large circle down over all the layers of mat and wool, just like upholstering a chair seat. I pleated down the excess, and stitched the pleats down with silk, cut off some of the excess and then covered the side with a cotton ribbon and a satin ribbon to make it neat and decorative. All in white. I can now keep my sewing needles pinned in the centre of my table, threads, off-cuts, scissors and lots of other stuff fits in the tabletop, and the quite massive leg keeps it all even-keeled without the risk of falling over.

Tomorrow, when my camera batteries have recharged I will be posting photos of this new wonder as well.

Tonight, to change the topic entirely, I attended the monthly Shire meeting. There were five of us, and we decided on a new Yearly Meeting on October 1. Hopefully we'll have new statutes to club through then, and afterwards we'll go out for a pint.

Tomorrow, I'm hosting scribal night here at home, hopefully I'll finish a couple of nagging items then. We'll see who else shows up. My littlest apprentice sister Isabetta said she might show up :) Again, if I finish anything, I'll post pictures tomorrow.

Tomorrow, tomorrow...

liadethornegge: (aros)
It has been a while since I updated my LJ with event photos, but here we are again! I just finished adding captions to the pictures I took at the Coronet Tourney my shire put on a few weeks ago. Some pretty good shots, if I say so myself.
Nordmark Coronet Tourney

liadethornegge: (garb)
Yesterday was sewing circle Saturday, with cybermeeting capabilities :)

Me and Edricus, arrived to find Elizabeth and SvartulvR already there. They had to leave fairly soon after though, but William later came too. Through most of it, Filippa also joined in via skype on Ed's laptop. Webcam and voice chat - yay!

I applied the last of the trim to my black velvet dress. Instead of adding it down the back of the arm seams, I added it down the front of the skirt, to tie skirt and bodice together a little more, visually. It turned out very well in the end. Edricus worked on a new pair of full length hose, Helwig wove the edge of her liripipe hood of laurel-bling, William checked yardages, and sought inspiration and guidance, Filippa felled hems and took opinions as to means of closure of new gown.

There was also an epic kladdkaka.

In short, all the things required of an Aros sewing circle. We made it home a little before one am.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
I am still a little foggy as I've been well struck-down with a cold after the Coronet Tourney my shire put on this weekend. But I have some things to report.

Firstly, the pincushion cube is completely finished and put to use already, and it's working out just as well as I had hoped. And the side with raised embroidery worked out even better, because I can store sewing needles through the raised bits, without them falling out, or disappearing into the cube. Double-score. Although my next pincushion will be a little bit shorter, and twice as wide as it is deep, and I will design the raised embroidery better to catch the tips of needles.

Secondly, I did three scrolls for this weekend, one Principality level fighting award for Lord Stigot, and the viscounty scrolls for the departing couple SvartulvR and Elizabeth. I did all three in a grant letter style, so basically all calligraphy. For Stigot's I did paint a white portal in the initial letter, though, using fake gold leaf which I just got and had to try out.

For the Viscounty scrolls I doodled in the initial letter, and added a few personal touches in the scrollwork. I also made them on real parchment. I'm pleased with the results for all three, and the recipients seemed to appreciate them :) They only lack seals, and I know SvartulvR has a kit to attach it to theirs. I might see if I can talk to someone local to add it to Stigot's.

I also finished a new dress for this weekend. I bought a black cotton velvet bedspread in Morjärv once upon a time... thinking I could turn it into a 16th Century gown, and I finally did. Most construction seams are done on the machine, and I patterned the bodice after my red kirtle which I adore. And since I wore the black gown all day Saturday with no discomfort or ill effect I now also adore this black one. I had a beige and black trim in my stash which I decorated the bodice with, also as a decoration around the hem, and down the seams in the sleeves. Ah, yes, it is long-sleeved, square necked, and has a slight dip in the front bodice where the skirt lies flat. The back panel of the skirt is gathered using knife pleats all pointing towards the centre back. For once I also remembered to have someone take nice photos of me in the new dress :)

I unfortunately do not have pictures of these items ready to post yet. But figured I should update this poorly neglected blog with some happy news.

At Nordmark Coronet Tourney and Aros Spring Sword and Buckler II our little household grew! Helwig took a fourth apprentice in Lady Isabetta del Verde. Which was awesome.

And I got to see Viscountess Filippa's gift-wrapping-paper dress of much bling and there was joy.

Also - no longer a lady-in-waiting! Yay! Although I loved serving SvartulvR and Elizabeth - they are good people.
liadethornegge: (Default)
I have been very bad about posting on livejournal lately, but I have tried to keep my list of finished projects fairly up-to-date. The backdated post which I started early last year and dated to the 31st of december. I haven't added all scribal work to that list, but I'll try to do that soon. Tonight I will host the first scribal night of the year, and hope to continue with them regularly as well. I still think that seventeen items is a fairly good result for one year, even if none are finished items of clothing for myself, not counting accessories.

Hopefully, this year I will finish garments! I've started a new 16th Century base garment. A black velvet petticoat, which will fill the same niche as my red wool petticoat. At the first sewing circle of the year, this past Saturday (the 7th) I cut out the skirt panels using my standard petticoat skirt pattern which is based on Alcega. The bodice had to wait til I got home, because I'd brought the wrong pattern. At home on Sunday I cut out the bodice using the same pattern as my red petticoat, that pattern is one piece. There are no seams in the sides, and no seam in the back. Therefore it is a front-lacing bodice.
I like how I made the red petticoat with a sub-layer which has a little stiffening and the lacing holes and the top fabric is closed over the lacing using hooks and eyes. I will do pretty much the same thing with this black kirtle.

The bodice was cut as one piece in the velvet, then I dug out some unbleached linen and cut the interlining. I had to do that in two pieces because the linen was a remnant. I attached the interlining to the shell with herringbone stitch all around, including up the centre back where I only went through the shell at top and bottom. And then I turned my attention to the stiffening.

Since I want to be able to wear it as a single layer gown, it needs some stiffening and so I cut out two half-fronts in double layers of a gorgeous goose-eye linen twill (same as the lining for SvartulvR's Laurel-tunic) and stitched four channels; one at the front edge, then a gap, then two more parallell to that and one slanting from the edge of the shoulder strap to the front. I inserted the usual plastic zip ties that are ideal for boning and I'm currently working on eyelets on these two sides. I'm putting them one inch apart (11 per side). After I've done them I'll be looking at attaching them to the shell somehow. I am envisioning one slanted seam through interlining and shell and one straight up seam just outside the second boning channel. And on the outside I will cover these seams with some nice trim, maybe black satin tape. The idea is that it should be all black and details in different textures. And then I will have to decide what to use to line the bodice and skirt.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
Last night, I invited all interested parties to the first scribal night of the fall, and what a lovely time was had.

William and Isabetta were the first to arrive some time after six, and by that time I'd managed to cut down, lay out and start to sketch and ink in the borders of a re-make of Lord Edricus' Dragon's Tear scroll.

I modified the illuminations a little, as I re-made it at half the size of what I had. And I chose to use my own batarde hand for the calligraphy as well, because I know it, and it is pretty.

I made a little mistake with the text, which turned out to be a good thing, because the text was too short and needed to be expanded to fill the space. After a bit of brainstorming the three of us came up with new wording to work in my mistake as well :)

I finished the calligraphy and the border is inked, so I have only to gild and paint now.

We were all quite surprised when my doorbell rang after eight in the evening, though. When I opened the door it turned out to be a lady who has come to one meeting with Aros before. She had seen my notice on facebook about the scribal night and decided to come, so I got to play at being a chatelaine again, trying to figure out what sorts of things she'd like to do. She's about to move to a place not too far from William and Isabetta, and expressed an interest in sewing circle - so information was exchanged and we'll do our best to get her to come to the next sewing circle.

I also decided that I'm making Monday nights a standing invitation for Scribal Night at my place. So anyone in the vicinity between 17 and 22 are welcome to work on scribal things, or just hang out. I've got coffee and tea, and some materials for beginners.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
I'm going to attempt to get started straight away with Scribal evenings at my place.

I've sent out invitations last night for today. Maybe a bit short notice, but I figure it's better to get started ASAP or it will be forgotten.

Will report back tonight.
liadethornegge: (Default)
I have run foul of insufficient reluctance yet again, and agreed to something. This time, I agreed to take on the Kingdom MoAS office for the remainder of the current term. It is up at Twelfth Night Coronation. It is possible I may continue at that point, but since I don't know what I will be doing or where in the fall, I don't feel confident I can promise anything.

I have also found a replacement MoAS for Aros, Anna, and set her up with some old reports and information on what to do when. We'll have a good old natter at Double Wars, which she'll attend with her daughters again this year - yay.

In other news, I've updated my webpage. Not all the things that needed to be updated have been, but I've added four items to the A&S 50 challenge page, which brings my total up to over half finished! 26 items down, 24 to go!

I want to do a total re-design of my site, and also change the title, but can't really spare the time to do it at the moment. The title I have now "Lia's SCA Adventure" sounds a little silly to me. Silly can be good, but, I'm not totally in love with it anymore. I'm considering Lia's Project Repository instead. It describes the site well I think. It may be a bit too green. But I thought I might conform to my new colours. What with my arms being registered and the colours there are black white and green. But I don't know - leave a comment if you've got any suggestions or thoughts.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
Since I went south for Easter rather than north, I had an entire day to spend at illumination, and I invited the Shire to come for a scribal day at my place today. Only one other person came, Helwig. Ermingard would have come, but she also went south for Easter and didn't make it back to Aros in time. I don't mind terribly that I don't get invaded by people for scribal days, but I know there are interested people out there. When they are able to I'm sure they will come.

Anyway, I bit the bullet and finally started sketching out the border on Helwig's Laurel scroll. Only pencil for now, since I did not bring my oak gall ink back south with me, and I want to ink the lines with that before I start painting. I'll be incorporating a portrait in the border, of Helwig in her Anna Meyer dress. It's going to be a challenge all right. Yikes.

Then when I had gotten as far as I could with that I started a brand new blank scroll for our new Principality of Insulae Draconis. It's going to be a fairly simple page, bordered on three sides by vines mostly in the style of Digby 36, my fave. I actually didn't have any original in front of me when I started the sketching, and I got so far as putting down the gold ground before we quit. I am actually feeling rather good about that. Since it means that I have taught myself that style well enough that I no longer have to copy, but rather can create freely.

----

In other, slightly older, news I have also been to a sewing day since I've been at home, in which I managed to finish two projects. First of all, the badge with Aros' Shire arms for the Coat of Arms Wallhanging project that Racaire has started was finished. It's mostly modern materials, since all the embroidery is done with DMC cotton floss. The ground fabric is unbleached linen though.

First of all I outlined the owl in chain stitches, then filled it in completely using split stitches. Then I outlined the entire badge in yellow chain stitches and then filled in the background with split stitches. After that was done I added the red laurel wreath on top of the yellow using stem stitch and satin stitches. That part I am least happy about, since the background worked so beautifully with the split stitches, and I had to basically eyeball the wreath and improvise each stitch for the "stalk" and the leaves.

I have pictures of the finished badge, but I don't have the cord for my camera so I can't upload anything.

Secondly, I finished the shirt I owed my Laurel as wages for the year. If anyone remembers it was made to be "the second Anna Meyer shirt". Which meant smocking the collar. That was the step that held me up the longest. I finally stitched down the collar however, and finished eight cords for neck and cuffs. I did not include any embroidery in the project, so Helwig still has that to finish on the shirt. But it is done and off my to-do list now - Hurrah!
liadethornegge: (aros)
Yesterday was the first official sewing circle of the new year, and we were six people all together working on wearable projects, plus Sir Johann painting miniatures.

For my part I had brought only two items, first the length of fabric for possibly cutting out Helwig's new shirt, secondly the green short sleeved 15thc kirtle for finishing.

I didn't cut out the shirt, but discussed with Helwig what I could do with it, and decided on how to proceed. It is going to be my first attempt at smocking a collar. Here's hoping it works.

I did however, persevere on the finishing of the green kirtle. I marked out 40 eyelets along the front opening and I opened them all up and whipstitched around them all. The kirtle is now completely wearable, although where I am going to wear it and when is another question. It isn't my most laudable achievement in costuming I must say.

Other happenings were the experimentation with Alcega me and Bengt got up to. He had with him some waxed linen fabric which he wanted to turn into something waterproof. I suggested a cape with attached hood as Alcega has in his excellent pattern book. We pulled it out of Helwig's newly re-organized shelves and set to work making two toiles and figuring out how it worked on the head and where to tweak it. Assistance and suggestions was ably given by William and Clara as well. Bengt proclaimed himself happy in the end and intends to make a full circle cape with attached hood out of the fabric and using the pattern we devised.

It was awesome in many ways.

Other people worked on knitting, naalbinding, recutting the armscye of a houpellande, making a toile of a new houpellande and starting the layout on the actual fabric (which is a red and black part silk brocade which is YUMMY!), adding trim to capes and all sorts of little things.

There was also tea, chocolate mousse ca... I mean fruit salad, freshly baked bread and brie and lots of lovely chat with lovely people.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
The afternoon's project turned out to be not chest painting, nor embroidering - but rather the continuation of the project we launched yesterday at sewing circle.

It's got a deadline: Nordmark Civil War. But it's no sweat - I'm nearly all finished with my part. Well, sewing at least. Just topstitching, hemming and a few cords to attach. I'm not going to talk too much about it, or describe it, or post photos until after Civil War. It's sort of a secret project.
liadethornegge: (aros)
Aros historic fencing camp photos now online at tworavens.org
liadethornegge: (garb)
Sewing circle yesterday. I arrived first, but was soon joined by Iseut, Sarah and Elise. Then Anna without her daughters, William and Bengt also came.

Quite a lovely gang, and a very lovely time spent.

To get technical, I picked apart the armscye finish of my green Florentine gown and inserted the baragoni (cap sleeves) between the layers and closed it up again. I also re-installed the strip of satin tape stitched down at intervals to which I can tie the paned long sleeves in place.

I also took the strip of paille pouffs off the paned sleeves. That bit is always covered up by the baragoni when worn, so is a waste of bling. I'm going to re-use the silk inside the baragoni though, and that is my next task for the gown. I'm going to create a bit of linen stuffing and attach the silk, and pull it through the panes of the baragoni and that will be that. Then I'm going to attach silvery points to satin tape with which I can tie the long paned sleeves on for a little bit of added bling.

So much for my projects, I also helped Helwig with fitting her Anna Meyer dress, as she has reached the stage of monting the silk shell onto interlining. I carefully pinned a strip of fabric around the neckline so she has a fairly good idea how long that piece of embroidery needs to be.

I also commented on the bodice, when it was laid out on the floor, that it looked exactly like doll's clothing. Or possibly a jacket for a five-year-old. Helwig is tiny.

And then, I also helped Iseut re-fit a proto-Tudor gown. She made it long ago and now wants it to look more like what it is supposed to be. I drew on a new neckline for her, and myself and Helwig advised on what to change to make it more accurate.

I also advised William how to continue with the blackwork piece he started at my class at Glötagillet. Not that he needed much advising, he showed me what he was thinking and I said "Go for it!".

I didn't get back home until half past midnight.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
I hosted scribal night today. Good thing about people coming round your place? The place gets picked up and cleaned a little. I'd be ashamed for people to see my place on a "normal" day :P

Anyway, four people here, including me. One non-participant in scribal, but he was useful on his own sewing projects. Ulv, stitched up a second iteration of glove and it seemed to work perfectly. His wife, Ingirun, got to drool all over my books. She's already a fantastic artist, so to start creating scrolls she just needs to adopt the "right" styles and she'll be off and running. I'm excited to see what she will end up producing.

For myself I worked on the not-finished QOoC. I'm still at the gold-laying stage. Building up layers. It will be gorgeous once done, but as always at this stage it looks a long way off.
----
Yesterday I also embroidered one corner of the underarm gusset of my new project. Wow, that was a complicated structure. Let's start over. On Sunday, after finishing the linens I started at Saturday's sewing circle, I pulled out the very fine hemp and cut out an Italian smock, or camicia, to go with my green Florentine gown. I am basing it on Arnold, Patterns of Fashion 4 p111, pattern #71. It takes two full-width panels for body, front and back, half-width panels for sleeves, two shoulder bits and large underarm gussets.

Each piece is finished off separately and whipstitched together, this is good for me, because the embroidery thread I mean to use on this is not yet tested. I want to use the indigo dyed silk I bought from Felicitas ([livejournal.com profile] bippimalin), but having tried it before it left a residue on the fabric. I washed the hanks in the sink and rinced it thoroughly and let it dry, then I stitched one of the gusset repeats. So far it does not seem to leave a residue, but my plan was to put the gusset in the washing machine and see how it holds up. That's the smallest piece in the garment and I have plenty of hemp left over should the experiment fail. This particular thread is lovely to work with, as I learned making my apron.

If the home dyed silk won't work, I have a back-up plan: Helwig brought me a gift from the states last summer, a couple of hanks of silk embroidery thread in a dark blue, almost black. It was always meant to go into a "blueworked" chemise of some kind, possibly a perugia cloth.
liadethornegge: (website)
Status of pictures: Currently uploading to picasa. I'll post a link once it's all finished.

ETA:
Link is a: http://picasaweb.google.se/lia.thornegge/ArosSycirkel

The photos are arranged chronologically, with the oldest photos at the top and the newest (taken yesterday) at the bottom. All names are SCA names, except for those who have not yet chosen an SCA name. In the end I uploaded 375 pictures. That's nearly all of the regular meeting photos. I edited out a few. I also used to have an album for "special" occasions, but I have to think about what to do with them.

If anyone is in the album and would rather the photo be taken offline, contact me.

ToDo Today

Feb. 8th, 2009 02:00 pm
liadethornegge: (aros)
Today: Fix Aros sewing circle photos and upload. Will report back as the situation warrants.

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