liadethornegge: (awesome)
I eventually managed to upload an album of photos of the progess of Filippa's black and white coif. It's not even a tenth of the number of photos I have of it and its inspiration.

Still, shows the progress: https://picasaweb.google.com/107008157819245320875/MetalThreadEmbroideredCoif
liadethornegge: (Default)
Aah, Double Wars. My favourite event in the Whole Knowne World!

The trip there went smoother than expected after we discovered we'd be ten scadians on the same train to Hässleholm. We managed the 3D-tetris that is luggage racks after some head-scratching.

Going by train from Aros was me, Mistress Helwig, Anna Nilsson with daughters Tove and Arina, Lady Alvhilde with two sons, Lord Styrbrjörn Bärsärk and Lady Ragnhild Leifsdotter. We're not the people with the smallest amount of luggage.

Anyway, the train ride was nice and relaxing, and I managed to snooze while I shared headphones with Helwig: we were listening to an audio book.

At Hässleholm Anna and Alvhilde had arranged the rent of a people-carrier. It had seats for nine, we were eight, and there was plenty of space even for our epic pile of luggage.

Notable happenings at Double Wars: Filippa could finally accept a green belt from Mistress Helwig. Stigot got a red belt from Sir Brendan. Magnus got awarded the White Portal. Meisterinne Katheryn Hebenstreitz, OP, was elevated to the Order of the Laurel. Viscount Arngrim Biornsson changed his name to Armand d'Alsace and was knighted. Master Måns Knutsson Kotte was also knighted - from the King's privy chamber (tent) as the King was injured and could not get up to court.  Several lovely people got Panaches, Genevieve and Robert each got a permanent heraldic title, and so much more I can't remember it all.

Other things: I finished and delivered four napkins, and sundry for Mistress Katheryn's Laurel vigil and she was mighty pleased. See image below and following images in the album.
From Giftbasket

I finished and handed over the V&A reproduction coif-set to Viscountess Filippa. The one with silver thread embroidery. I also entered it in the A&S competition and won Queen and Princess' choice. I also assembled it fully. Although it needs to be half dis-assembled again for the lining to be put in. I left that step for Filippa to do herself. We tried it on her head briefly. See image below and following images in the album.
From Embroidery

I'm still working on editing the photos I took at the event. Soo many. I will keep you posted.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Wow. OMG! And other such exclamations of glee.

I have just finished the embroidery, entirely, on the black and silver coif set. The forehead cloth has been finished a while now, but the coif has been lagging behind. I set my mind on finishing it before Double Wars, which starts on Friday - in five days - and I achieved it!

I was on the phone with my laurel while I worked the last coil in ceylon stitch, counting down the last three stitches. And when it was all finally done, I cut off the thread end, I took it outside, and I photographed it, then I sent a text to Filippa (whose coif it is going to be) and then I ran outside, with both hands in the air for a Victory Lap around the house. Yes, I literally went outside, ran around the house, with my arms to the sky with a great big grin on my face.

This is an amazing feeling! And now I will make it up into a wearable coif and it will be FABULOUS! It already is. I am so very very pleased.
ETA: Photo:
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Below are two close-us of a detail on the coif I'm re-creating. I've currently not really tried to re-create this particular stitch, and if anyone has any suggestions on how to work it, I would be most appreciative! It's all tangled up and almost looks like it's worked in two directions.
I've sort of skipped doing these bits intentionally so far. And on a couple of places replaced it with my version of long-armed cross stitch, or ösenstitch as the viking version has been called.

Anyway, if anyone can decipher the below, please give me a shout!

Oh yes, I'm more than half way done with the metal thread embroidery on the coif. And if I can keep this up I will be finished by Double Wars, which is in one and a half weeks! I am looking forward to this year's Double Wars immensly. I can hardly wait.

From Embroidery

From Embroidery

I am beaten

May. 5th, 2010 07:41 pm
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
I have acceded defeat. The coif will not be finished before tomorrow, so I have put it aside, and started on finishing one of the many other items I promised to have done for Double Wars - a blank scroll for ID.

The coif deadline was self-imposed, and the end-user is not putting any pressure on me, so I will let it rest until after Double Wars, and aim to finish it for the medieval days held up here in Frostheim instead.

Anyway, I suppose I need to document the additional 4 hours I spent on metal-thread embroidery to the project, making it a total of 53h 30m so far.

Timekeeping

May. 3rd, 2010 10:42 pm
liadethornegge: (awesome)
Another 4 hours and 15 minutes this morning, plus 3 hours and 30 mins this evening. Total time: 49h 30 mins

Blackwork now all done!!!

Celebrating with crisps.

ETA: cellphone picture of the whole thing:
coif set #3

Ickle squirrels running around the foliage:
From Embroidery

Timekeeping

May. 2nd, 2010 09:08 pm
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Embroidery time today: 8h 40 min
Total: 41h 45m

Not finished with blackwork. I might put in a little more time, but I'm sort of tired, so probably not.

Timekeeping

May. 1st, 2010 10:16 pm
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Embroidery time today: 7h 50 mins
Total: 33h 5 mins
liadethornegge: (camera)
From Embroidery

Finished blackwork on the forehead cloth:
From Embroidery
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Time spent at embroidery frame today: 5.5 hours.
Total: 25.25 hours
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
I've finished the forehead cloth sewing-wise now. The edges are hemmed and ready to go. There are no ties yet, will have to think on them further. Possibly outsource them. And of course the silver coils are not done.

The hemming for the forehead cloth took maybe an hour all told.

I've also continued on a couple of coils with the silver, this time using single thread, and the modified version of long-armed cross stitch. It looks pretty damn perfect. Very much like the original to my eyes.

Wednesday night was a wash for embroidery, as I was invited for birthday cake. Thursday night was a wash for embroidery as me and my brother went to the movies (saw Iron Man 2, totally worth it). Tonight I aim to get at least four hours done, hopefully six or more. Saturday I aim to spend a full day working at it, Sunday as well.

I expect my shoulders and neck will be very sore by the end of the weekend, but I should hopefully be done with the blackwork and on to the silver thread.

I've pretty much given up on doing any scribal work before Double Wars. I'll have to set up and finish the blank I've promised for competition on site. Ah, well.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Although this is a bit too late to start, I thought I'd try it anyway. Keeping track of the time I spend embroidering this latest set of forehead cloth and coif. Too late, since the forehead cloth is already fully blackworked and I have no idea how long that took. But I can calculate it for the coif near enough.

Starting with today's time I spent 4.5 hours at it.
Yesterday was 2 + 3.25 hours.
Sunday I spent around 8 hours. Previous to that, probably a couple more.

Which brings the total for the coif currently to: 19.75 hours.

Success!

Apr. 22nd, 2010 09:19 pm
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
WHEE! I've just dressed my slate frame and put the coif embroidery on it. I managed it! Woohoo!
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Alright - I think I have a good way of describing the "reverse twisted chain stitch" thing I tried to decipher before.

Imageine doing a long-armed cross stitch, except on the "short" leg back never go through the ground, only pick up the two crossed threads created on the previous go round.

For long-armed cross stitch, see here for example. Where insead of in step d going down into the ground, you take the needle a little farther to the left and go underneath the X of threads but over the ground.

It is ingenious and produces just the sort of "plait" look to a single line of loops.

Original coif detail photo Original coif detail photo
The mysterious reverse twisted chain stitch

liadethornegge: (research)
Moahahahha! I am Lia, hear me roar!

I think I managed to come up with a pretty damn good re-creation of a stitch that was used on the coif I am doing.

It turns out, after I got a load of yummy close-ups, that they did not solely use plaited braid stitch. In fact, I see very few places where they used it, instead a number of other stitches seem to be employed. It may be that the plaited braid stitch is a bit too clunky, or wide, for application on such a flexible item as a coif, or it may be the scale of the coif, as compared to a jacket. It's smaller. Or it may just be that this particular pattern calls for narrower coils.

Anyway, there are plainly chain stitches used in lots of details, I can do those easily, but then there are a couple of other types of stitches as well. My roar just now was because I think I figured out one of the others. It is a reverse chain stitch variation, which twists the reversed loop, and does not use the same hole for any of the stitches. It looks good when I did it just now in wool, but when I get back to my coif set I will try it again with the silver thread and see how it stacks up to the original.

Oh, and speaking of the original - I love the SCA.
I wrote to the London shire's email list on Wednesday, asking if anyone could possibly go to the V&A and take close-up photos of the coif in question - and one kind, generous, fantastic lady did! She went there yesterday during her lunch hour and took over a dozen excellent close-ups and sent them on to me that very evening!

I love the SCA, with big fluffy bunny hearts. Research photos for meeeeee! Hurrah!

Of course, now that I have them, I want to do the best possible job copying all the stitches. I may have to scale down my ambition. But still, a reversed twisted chain stitch I can definitely do!
liadethornegge: (awesome)
Pattern transferred to coif.

Stopping a moment to celebrate it.

Pressing on with the forehead cloth now.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Outline coils, afterwards, not before.  There is no way to make that pretty.

Yes, outlining after the coils are done will increase their size.

Now the question becomes, do I account for that in copying the pattern, making the coils narrower , or let the outlining grow the size of coils?

To answer, closer study of original must be undertaken.

Good news on the material usage front, outlining with two-stranded silk looks better than four stranded. Means I can get twice as much covered with the same amount of thread.

Potential upside, if I make coils narrower, less silver thread will also be needed.

Squee!

Apr. 13th, 2010 10:23 pm
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Doing a little embroidery test - First of all using a single layer of the silver thread (faked). Then embroidering it doubled up.

So in the top left you see me starting the vine with single thread, then where the loose end goes up the thread is doubled.

It's quite tiny to begin with, the coils being about 5mm wide, and with the single strand of thread the entire result is very slinky and without almost any sort of substance. It is still shiny and sparkly though.

The double threaded version which continues to the right and down looks a little better. Since the coils have to be a little larger they are easier to pick out, and the entire line stands proud of the fabric a bit more, in my opinion a more period look and feel to it. It was a bit trickier to keep track of, since I now had two semi-flexible threads to keep happy and not knotting up, but it went surprisingly well. Additionally it was easier to find the holes when I stitched with doubled thread, as it stiffened up a bit more.

I think the only problem now is how on earth do I secure the ends? Does anyone know? I'm going to dive deeply into the blog on thistle threads to see if they've addressed that issue. I can't remember it myself, but I may have missed it.

I just wanted to post and go: "Squee!" really. All this documentation and discussion is by-the-by.

ETA: A look at the back of the coils on the Plimoth Jacket. Looks precarious to me, but then the jacket is lined...

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