liadethornegge: (garb)
Front closing corset (6 Sept, 2007)Deciding for once to be quite brutally honest, I have told myself that the effigy corset I started, boned with hemp cord, is probably not going anywhere at all. But, that still leaves me with no front closing corset that I can get into myself. Having to have somebody elses help into a corset has been cramping my style and I've practically never worn mine.

So, armed with my pattern, sturdy canvas and my shears I cut out a front closing corset in two layers. Being silly I still had to stitch up the back seam before doing the one long seam along the bottom before turning. At this stage, it's all hand sewing, but I'm thinking I'll bring this for sewing circle and machine up all the boning channels on Saturday. Maybe I'll even wear it for Civil War. Won't that be a treat.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I'm looking at the pictures of me wearing it, and I've got to say, it looks crooked. Wearing it it feels like it is too short. And on top of that, if I continue shrinking, or it stretches any, it will be too large.

I am not a happy costumer. No, not at all.

I am starting to think it was all a complete waste of time. Not happy, not inspired, not content. No good, very bad.

Bah! and Humbug!

Therefore, I think my next project will be something earlier than the 16th Century. Maybe even as early as the 12th. I am still undecided. However, for today, the mission is scroll # 20 finished and ready to be put in an envelope for posting first thing Monday morning,
liadethornegge: (Default)
At quite a long sewing circle today I managed to stitch down the seam allowances on both the seams on my effigy corset, stitch on the thumb on my second mitten, cut off and attach on one side the fur cuff on one mitten and lace myself into my corset to have Helwig pin the shoulderstraps on me.

Other than that, I  was lazy, lazy, lazy. I had no energy, and I buried myself under two large, squishy ducks for a lot of the time. We also saw the end of a program on TV about the tall ship Göteborg, and then we watched Sin City. Tea was also consumed. With cookies. Viscount William joined us as well, and he remained after I finally gave up on finding any inspiration and went home.

Corsetry

May. 27th, 2007 07:02 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
I picked through my half-finished smaller projects today and picked up my half-finished effigy corset. I managed to re-attach the three pieces into one whole corset, and tried it on. Couldn't say very much, other than it is quite comfortable, and I need the shoulder straps.

Then I took it off and stitched up the front edge neatly, giving it an immediate face-lift, and I was quickly cheered up by the appearance. Next step is figuring out what to use as tape for edging the entire thing. I really don't know what I should use. Make it myself or go out and buy some? What kind? Properly I should be using leather, but that just isn't going to happen.

Must sort out the shoulder straps as well.

There will be no pictures uploaded as yet, as they're much too indecent. I wasn't wearing a proper smock.

And I really must think hard about my next project. What period, what style, what cut of fabric to use. I think a list is in my future. Never fear, dear readers, I shall report further on the issue. Probably until you are sick of hearing about it.
liadethornegge: (garb)
There has been much progress today.

I did eyelets all down the front of my new effigy corset, 1.5 cm apart. My sewing companions thought that may have been overly enthusiastic. This came up when I was helped into the temporarily assembled corset. That's right I ran a couple of machine seams to assemble three flat pieces of quilted and stuffed linen into a facsimile of the Elizabeth effigy corset.

It was quite comfortable. Reports say it did strange things to my bosoms and profile. I think it may have been sitting too low, although, to be honest at the lower end it did not feel too low. Rather, I may have made it too short. I'm not sure yet. I became all sorts of uncertain at the testing of it. Although, to reiterate, it was quite comfortable to wear despite reducing my waist quite a bit.

I did not have period underthings with me, so felt a bit self-conscious when trying it on. For the purposes of testing it I also asked Helwig to cut open the tabs, so those were in operation, except for the back panel.

There was some strangeness in the length of back and front panels as well. I may have pulled the back panel all out of shape when drawing in the hemp rope. Hmm. Ponderings are due. Not sure if I'm happy or not. I'm waffling, although mostly I feel good about it. It was very comfortable on. I can see the definite advantage of tabs.

Tomorrow I may have pictures to show, at least some from the sewing circle which again was popular. Right now I am going to snuggle myself further down into my blanket and make sure my thighs have thawed from the cycle ride across town. I may venture out for tea later on, but probably not.
liadethornegge: (garb)
No, not a fight really. I did gather myself up and invaded a friend with a sewing machine for a few hours today. I wanted to make covers for the cushion that will be covered in intarsia, and another interior decorating accessory I got at IKEA. They are now both safely encased in off-white cotton and ready to be made spiffy. The cushion, as mentioned, will be the base for my intarsia embroidery. I just have to square up the embroidery itself and stitch it together with a base. If I had brought it with me instead of leaving it at home I'm quite sure I would have finished it all up while at the machine.

And in my orgy of using the sewing machine, I went ahead and did up the remaining channels of my effigy corset on it. I know, horrible person me, right? Well, I feel no shame what so ever. None at all. I was completely and utterly done with sewing boning channels by hand. And the damned corset will still be over 80% hand made. Now I can finally move on to finishing off edges, cut up the tabs, do eyelets and try it on - maybe even start on a gown to go over the top of it. Maybe something Italian, in a green brocade, possibly.

Although not until after the English fitted gown is finished. Speaking of that: I have no news.
liadethornegge: (website)
Public Service Announcement: I added a little bit of polish then I updated my website with a blurb about the Alcega ropa article.

This sort of made me ponder other articles I might write - but I couldn't think of any, so for now I just added a link in the update section, and at the top of my ropa dress diary. If I had any others lined up I'd be considering how to redesign the clothes section to incorporate that, but I guess I'll leave it as is.

Sewing Circle news: In other news, sewing circle today was fun, an old face turned up again and as a consequence I didn't get very much done. That may also be due to the fact that I was faffing about to start with. In any case, I filled the front channels with hemp cord on the second half of the effigy corset with the aid of my pliers, and could then carry on stitching more channels.

I did recieve a bit of flak about doing that by hand, but it's all good :)

EFG news: No news.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I forgot my pliers over at [livejournal.com profile] helwig's place, so tried to use first a wrench then vice-grips to pull my threading tool through the channels. Didn't quite work as such. It creates an angle between a tenable grip and the line of traction, so basically you just end up with a kinky tool.

So, until tomorrow's sewing circle I can do no more sewing on the corset, because I have to fill in the first channels before I can continue on the remaining ones that come in at an angle from the side. I hope that makes sense to everyone, if not, just go look at my last picture post.

I've stitched through a few of the cords to keep them in place, namely those front channels on the first half, and it is eminently possible to stitch right through them without too much trouble. The problem is that technique wise I will have to punch the needle down through the layers, pull the thread tight, then punch up again - like embroidery. I can't collect several stitches on the needle and I can't even just go down-up in one go. This will make stitching the three panels together, for lack of a better word, interesting. For this reason I am (again) seriously considering the machine. A machine could zoom right over the seamlines no problem.

But I am unsure of another thing as well: should I be attaching my panels and then finish off all edges, or should I finish each piece separately, bind all edges with bias tape, and then whipstitch the sideseams?

Not to mention I haven't cut out the shoulder straps yet. Not that I can meaningfully mock those up until I've got the corset put together.
liadethornegge: (garb)
As I said, I finished stitching all channels on the first of the two front halves. I've also now threaded cord through all the channels and the back piece, which was previously only half corded, is filled.

Picture here )

Let's just say I needn't have worried too much about it becoming too big. As can be seen in the image above, the front that is corded is approximately 3 cm shorter than the unboned one. How will that work out, seeing as I already took out quite a chunk from the first pattern? Well, the corset will stretch once put under pressure, of that I have no doubt. I can manipulate it a little bit by hand, and once I get laces in there I'm sure it will accomodate me without leaving too much of a gap in front. Also, if it does leave a gap, I am not going to fret about it. I do think I will do my eyelets a little closer together than normal. 1.5 cm at most. And I will do my best to work them carefully and evenly.

In the picture I've doubled up the cable ties on the sides - each tab will have a cable tie in the middle for a little extra stability, and with the 12 mm channels I can fit two of them in there. The first two by the front edge are stitched with 10 mm channels, so a single cable tie fills those admirably. I'm not sure if I want to keep them doubled in the sides like that, it depends how supportive the corset ends up being. It was more flexible with just the singles, but once under pressure I'm not sure if it will be needed or not. I have plenty of them left over from my first corset, so it's no expenditure of either time, money or effort.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I was not able to psyche myself up to doing the rest of the boning channels on the effigy corset front by machine. I just couldn't do it.

Putting off hemming the green English fitted gown means that all boning channels on the first front piece on my effigy corset are now complete, also that the front edge is stitched on the second front piece, and all remaining channels marked out.

Hemming the green English fitted gown has suddenly become the most horrible thing imaginable for no discernible reason. I look at it and I know that once I get the hem done and the guards in place I will love that gown to pieces. I will want to wear it all the time. I am that confident about my pleasure in the finished item. Only, for some reason, doing the hemming seems like a fate worse than death. I spread the gown out on the floor and fiddled with the pins that mark the length, prepared it for the task, then I kicked it into a large green pile and continued sewing boning channels.

A bit later, I spread the skirt out again, looked at it, felt a twinge of disgust and decided to measure the hem length (335 cm) so I could confirm that I have enough guarding cut out (I do). Then I kicked it back into its pile and finished the boning channels on the corset piece.

That done, I folded the gown up neatly, and started marking out the remaining boning channels on the last piece of my effigy corset.
liadethornegge: (garb)
For information: Helsinki was frickin' cold.
I bought: Liqourice Candy and Talisker.
I saw: Crazy contemporary Finnish art, Trapeze artists being daring on the boat.
I said: Kiitos quite a lot.
I read: The Damnation Game by C. Barker through to the end.

And now for the On Topic Comments: There are way too many boning channels in a corset. I counted them - in each front piece there are 42 full length channels, plus two for the cable ties, plus a handful of decreasing length channels in the front where they change direction. The back panel's got something like 30 channels. I counted because I had to know approximately how much of my hemp rope would be used. I should have more than enough unless I was cheated or miscalculated.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Corset boning rope:
Hampa 2/1 120 m. 36 SKR. (Beck & Rep)

I found the tag in the bag with my rope. Thought it best to write it down somewhere safe.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Oddly hypnotic. That's what it becomes, doing line after line after line of boning channels. At this point I have less than a handful left to do on the second half of my back panel, then I can finish with the hemp rope boning. Although I'm becoming worried that the ball I got won't be enough. What will I do then?

Anyway, I marked the second half carefully and avoided all the ugliness that was the re-drawn guidelines on the first half. I will also take greater care with how I insert the rope to avoid getting it twisted in the channel, because it's well nigh impossible to untwist it after I've got it in place. The test I did, oh so long ago, of two different width of channels seems to have paid off. 5 mm was too tight, but 7 mm was too loose. My current 6 mm is just right for the rope I have.

At least the front panels won't have channels that are as long as these. But they're much bigger. Why do I do this to myself? Ah well, at least my fingers are developing impressive callouses.

I'll quit babbling and just give you the picture I took )

Oooowww

Feb. 15th, 2007 07:44 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
OK, so I got half way with the boning channels on the back of my new corset. I couldn't wait any longer, so then I started filling them with my rope. I manufactured a tool out of wire, a loop in one end, to pull my doubled up rope through and then started working.

And, I've worked up a nice big blister on my right index finger from pulling on the wire tool trying to coax the rope through.

Let me just say: Owwwww!

The little bit I did looks to be working fine. It's fairly stiff. Although it's definately easier to pull the rope through a channel when none of the channels next to it are filled.

My finger hurts, and I've had to leave the tool half way inside the channel I was just working on filling.

I think on the front panel I will intersperse a few cable ties for extra stability.

Again: Ouch! Ow! Aj!
-----
ETA: So, the solution to the problem with not being able to thread the hemp through the channels without doing bodily harm? Use pliers to pull the tool rather than only fingers. Clever, clever Lia. The half that is stitched is now also boned with hemp rope. Looks cool.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Intarsia panel done.effigy1 003Well, there it is. Since I did not cut out all the lilac pieces at the same time the whole piece is listing a bit, narrower at the top than at the bottom. But not by very much. This picture was taken in daylight and shows the colours much better than the other photos did. Anyway, it now only needs a backside and stuffing. Dunno what I'll use, but I'm sure something will come to me.

Then there is the corset. I started on the back panel and I took a picture of that too, about a quarter of the way through stitching the channels on the back panel. The side showing here is the blue linen, which I may make the lining, because the lining side now looks pretty grotty with pencil marks all over it. I also went back and forth on which stitch to use, but came to the conclusion that backstitching looks way nicer on both sides than running stitch, which for some reason creates ripples in the fabric.

By the way, I managed to save me doing the channels at an angle, with a slight adjustment I could continue straight on so they are all parallell to the centre-back line. No diagonals on the back panel then. The revised pattern now still looks fairly large to me, but, measuring it at the waist makes it smaller than me. So I'm confident it won't be too large.
liadethornegge: (garb)
  • Second iteration of effigy corset pattern cut - taking into account notes from last sewing circle and taking in front pieces a bit. Done.
  • Effigy corset pattern cut out in lining fabric (sturdy 'draglakan'). Done.
  • Same cut out of light blue linen as shell fabric. Done.
  • Seam lines marked on all lining pieces. Done.
  • Layers pinned together into two fronts and one back piece. Done.
  • Stitching of boning channels on back piece. Started.
I know I said I wouldn't be doing this by hand, but, damnit, when I had the pieces all cut out it seemed stupid to do the channels on the machine. By that I mean I was too impatient to lay it aside and let it wait til the next sewing circle, so I started stitching the back channels.

Of course, being silly I started at one edge rather than down the centre back, so now the left side of the back will have its channels at a slight angle to the centre. I'm not sure how to proceed. But I think I want to start again from the centre, go out either side of it three or four straight channels, and then let the slanted channels come into that. Of course, I have to stitch the angled ones first, then thread my hemp rope in, make sure it stays in place - then I can stitch down the straight centre ones. Being stupid never pays off. Bah! Then there is of course the problem of getting the same angle on the other half of it.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Started trying to mount my needlebook to some carboard and folding in my waste linen around it. Great fat failure there. It's half-done at this point, and looks like crap. Not happy. Maybe it's the spine of the embroidery that is too small, too narrow. The cardboard is apparently too thick, and the fabric folded in around it makes it too fat all around.

:(

Should I, like, do the embroidery in two parts? A front and a back. Mounted separately and attached in some other fancy manner in the centre.

Crapweasels.
--------
7 pm. Made a pattern for and cut out toile of an effigy corset. I dunno, might be all wierd. Check it out.
effigy-pat2
Pretty heinous fabric for this purpose (large fruits and vegs on it) but it's sturdy enough. I tried it on and at this point it closes without any effort at all on me. I might have to take it in a little, but then adding boning channels will take up some of the width.

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Lia de Thornegge

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