Well, now, here we are. The lining is in place, all stitched in, and seams felled and finished. Now for the neckline and hem.
I can do the hem simply enough - I know it's the right length already. The neckline I need to try on over the plum wool GFD and I don't feel like getting myself dressed that far today.
For the rest of the film, I'll be hemming :)
Edited Later: Well, here we are, some time later, hem has been turned, pressed and stitched down. The surcote is now hanging off my bookshelf next to me awaiting the inspiration and ideas to tackle the neckline. I am still unsure how best to finish that last detail. I might go back later and topstitch all the construction seams - I started on that when my thread was too long to just cut off after coming around the hem and I must say, the bit I did turned out very snazzy.
If I wanted to add fichets in the surcote, though, I would have to do that whenever. I'm thinking I might not move on that until I can test-drive it with everything on.
It's looking sweet.
Now to put on another Clint Eastwood western and finish the second sleeve.
On that list three items were finished, leaving the following:
- Wool hose
- Gothic Army Dress Sleeves
- Brown Test Doublet
- 1410 Surcote
In other news, I started on the 6th of the Drachenwald needlecases today at the Tuesday meeting. My detached buttonhole stitch is looking very nice. The outline of my pine trees continue to look like the drunken scribbles of a blind parkinson's patient. But it's all hand made! (*eyeroll* & *sigh*)
Photo taken by Elin Helsings (tantelin)
Also, I stitched in the first of my surcote's sleevelinings. Right sides together I just did a backstitch all around the opening. I'm going to turn the lining inside, fold a little bit in on itself and stitch it down around the armscye, hopefully covering the seam joining sleeve to body. Then I'll probably want to topstitch around the opening. Probably in white linen thread, catching only a little bit of the shell wool so it won't be seen from the outside.
*edited for updated picture link
At sewing circle on Saturday I'll probably be trying to finish off my sleeves with the lining, and making sure that litensessa is using the machine to make her new corset and not sneakily going off to do it by hand.
The project continues apace. I've got both arms stitched into the armscyes now. It was relatively painless. I've not finished any of those seams though. I topstitched the short sleeve-seam to make the top half into tubes, but that's it. I could concievably leave all edges raw, this fabric won't unravel, but I'm not sure I want to, purely on an aesthetic level.
As it is now though, I can wear the surcote. There are no gapping seams and no pins. The sleeves don't look the way I want them yet though - with the white lining showing. And, no, I've not hemmed the dress, nor done anything to the neckline. If I were using a machine that would be a small matter, but I'm not. Still, I might end up out of doors freezing my ass off at night for which I'd want something to put on. I could bring the ropa, but I'm not wearing 16th C stuff for this event. Of course, covering right up, that wouldn't be spotted.
Confusion is the word of the day.
I'm very happy about the length, that's just right. With a hem allowance that makes it about knuckle-long. I'll probably cut up a little more on the inside of the arm. Or rather, let the seam allowance take the inside opening up a little more.
When I sit wearing the surcote now the tippet part falls to the outside of the arm, and outside my thigh, which means it is entirely out of the way even for feast-situations. I'm very happy about that. It also means I can pull the end up and drape it over my forearms for warmth as and when needed. I'm quite happy about that too.
I'm also pleased with how the surcote looks. Doesn't shape me in any way, but shows off my shapes. Not bad at all.
I made my pattern, I marked where they ought to halve. As in half stop at the elbow, half continue down. Well, seems I marked it way, way off. How I managed that I don't know. Really don't know.
And now I've got the wool cut out. Fortunately I did NOT cut them off to the half mark, thinking I would mark that carefully in situ. At least I didn't screw up there. The shell should still be useable without me having to cut a new pair. And, yes, I do have enough for a new pair if it should be needed.
So now I sit here, one sleeve pinned in, the pins nibbling at my shoulder, griping and moaning.
Gotta start by rotating the sleeves a bit more I think. Bugger.
If I get my ass in gear and start sewing I could very well finish in time. Only problem is my damnable headache. *whine*
I didn't get a massive amount done, I worked on stitching down all the seams on the inside of my surcote but didn't finish before it was time to pack up and go.
I looked a little more in the Tudor Tailor, and I see that it will be normative for Tudor and Elizabethan fashion from now on just like the Medieval Tailor's Assistant was for the 14th Century. I am expecting plenty of gowns and headwear in the styles seen in the book to appear within the next year.
I do agree with sarahbellem that for myself, the book offers nothing new, aside from a few very lovely and interesting portraits in the first section. Also the hat patterns should be useful. It was pointed out to me, though, that for someone not before acquainted with the period and this type of clothing it would be the perfect fit. My enormously-gusseted undertunic was mentioned in relation to this.
I was brought to heel by that comment because it is so very true. I knew nothing about anything, and when I made that undertunic I was Very Much helped by the pattern I used, even if it was meant for machine stitching and I did it by hand. I'd already forgotten what it was like to be completely clueless and was pointing out that a straight-panel skirt doesn't need a pattern. No, not for me it doesn't, but for someone who knows nothing, this is exactly what is needed.
Well, anyway, I'll do my best to finish the surcote, and see about the sausage head-roll thingy, whatever it's called.
Anyway, I'm coming down with two pairs of pattens. The second pair was much quicker to do and are destined for frualeydis. My own pair are quite cute, and although they did take longer, it was mostly because we didn't know exactly which was the best way to proceed at every juncture. I shall give them a jolly good test-drive at the Coronet Tourney we're hosting the first weekend of May, and then again at Double Wars. We're all aware that Double Wars is coming up in a few short weeks, right?
I mostly got the surcote stitched up, there's around 30 cm of side seam left undone because I ran out of thread there and I wanted to try it on. I brought my gothic army dress but didn't do anything on it. On the car-ride south again I'll finish the very last needlebook for the giftbasket project with blanket stitch around the edges. Maybe if I'm feeling creative I can do a little design on the fronts as well, we'll see.
I expect to be back in the home Shire before it's time to grab the tea-bag and head for the tuesday meeting. But it does depend a little on my form after around ten hours in a car. I might be entirely too knackered, or I can be just knackered enough that a brisk walk will be just the ticket.
I've not finalized the armscyes yet, nor the sleeves, and I will have to adjust the neckline to fit over the plum wool gown most likely. As it stands now though, I'm happy about the project, and definately glad I decided on NO lining at all. It really does not need it.
I might be swearing a bit when I go to wriggle into the surcote over the wool gown (the gothic army dress is linen as you may recall) but that's another bridge in the future. I believe it'll work out.
Left to do on the surcote is:
- Press down all seams to one side, right now the seams add a little bulk on the inside when wearing, which is why I am hopeful it'll still be manageable to get into over a wool gown.
- Sew the shoulder seams.
- Finalized the armscyes so I can calculate for a sleeve pattern
- Cut down the neckline and finish it.
- Hemming. As it is now, the dress reaches to the floor, plus a little bit extra, half an inch to an inch extra. I'm not sure I want to do anything to the length, as when I go to hem I'll fold up a bit of an allowance. Having the surcote too short so that the gown beneath is always peeking out is not something I want, and honestly, I don't think it can get too long at this point. If I find that it is a bit long I can always go back and recut the hem no problem.
Not a whole lot of work left in all.
Surcote: I've basically decided to rip out the lining on the surcote - punishment for basting it all in no doubt - and replacing it with nothing at all. The wool is much more likely to be pliable without a linen layer to stiffen it up. If needed I will go back in and add a lining by slipstitching it in place if I feel the bodice needs it. Without the linen I stand a decent chance of being able to wriggle into the surcote. No eyelets and lacing would be good.
The open sleeves will need lining. I'm not sacrificing the look there.
The lining I shall rip out will go toward a petticoat and scraps I think. I am at least glad I did not butcher the lovely white linen I got at Himla the other weekend. Sewing in wool alone will be a treat. Going through both wool and linen when I basted the layers was a little bit of a struggle to be truthful.
Gothic Army Dress: I've finished 14 eyelets. Two more to go on the first sleeve, then I get to do it all over again on the second sleeve. *sigh* At least the closer I get to the cuff the neater I manage to make the buttonholes. They're not by any stretch of the imagination pretty, but at least they are not utter disasters any longer.
Possible New Project: For the moment I'm glancing at my new cut of white linen with a 15th Century chemise in mind. The one I have is nice to be sure, I just re-finished all the seams and it is only one season old, but the sleeves were not my brightest idea on it. They are tight sleeves, so I can't really roll them up and out of the way if I need them to. I shouldn't have made them to the same pattern as the supportive gown, but I figured I wanted minimal amounts of fabric in my sleeves so that's what I did. With this lovely fresh white linen I can make a new chemise, one with a split BACK panel as opposed to the FRONT and with un-tapered sleeves. This would also mean I'd have two chemises to change out between which is a good thing. Would be a good thing for double wars even. I must do an update on my list of projects. Look for that in the next posting :)
I also did the all manual kind of flat felled seam with both edges whipstitched/hemstitched (I so don't know the term for this I get confused) down. I mean to say, I overlapped the two cuts, folded one edge in toward the other fabric, pinned the very edge then turned it all over and folded the other raw edge in to create my flat felled seam with the fabric in the final position. Then I pressed and stitched up both folded edges to create the finished seam. The blue linen was being a bit uncooperative though, and my left forefinger is frazzled and sore from having the needle tear through it so much.
I'm planning on basting each piece of lining to the lilac wool individually and then assembling the pieces as if I only had one layer. The gores I can stitch into place without much thought, but the side seams will need to be pondered over a bit for fitting purposes.
I can't really start on the sleeves until I have the surcote assembled either, as the pattern I have is made to fit the GFD's armscye, and the surcote will have a larger hole. I'll probably do a toile for the sleeve once I can put the surcote on.
To note: this is going to be one large gown. The wool is quite thick, and the fabric takes up quite a bit of space. It is also not the lightest material around. I'm starting to think that perhaps the dark blue material would have made a much fancier kind of surcote, one I can wear indoors, but that's for another time. I am quite sure that I wouldn't want to make my beginner's mistakes on the blue wool cloth, and since this is the first surcote I make, I will have some mistakes to learn from.
I can cut the skirts separate from the bodice. Or I can cut off the lining to end just below the rump. Half-line it, so to speak. But I'm unsure what that would do to he drape. Also there's the issue of the documentation showing a white lining at the hem of the surcotes.
I could just go ahead and use the new white linen for my lining as well. That would be simpler, no doubt. But it's such pretty pretty linen. I don't think I'm ready to use it just yet. It's not had time to cure in my stash.
Of course, I could be quite radical and just sew up my two cuts into a single piece. That way I wouldn't have to ponder where to piece, it would be already accomplished.
Bah, finally I took measuring tape to my cut of linen, the longer of the two, and bloody hell! How can I have had it noted down to 1.6 metres when it is in fact 2.5?!?? I just have no idea. I'm too tired and lazy at the moment to start measuring the second cut, but it is significantly shorter, so the notation of 1.15 m might be right, which would mean in total I have half a metre to spare after lining the body panels and gores. The sleeves were always meant to be lined with white.
Doing so with the sleeves would mean that the tippets should only reach my palms, no further, which would keep it practical.
Thus far, I've only chalked the pattern pieces, nothing is cut, because I'm still not convinced, and I'm afraid of screwing it all up.
OK, so I cut into my wool. Still afraid it's all wrong, but it was delightful the way my scissors cut through the fabric.
Edited To Add:
After counting I find it is even weave, 15 threads per cm. How lovely. Not so sheer as my shirt linen, but very nice none-the-less.
Edited again to add:
I glanced at my draped toile, cut off excess, trimmed them down. I'm not convinced. I want to do another fitting session for a supportive gown. I don't believe in my pattern anymore.