liadethornegge: (research)
So I hang out mostly on facebook these days. It happend a couple of years ago, everyone moved their event photos to facebook, and the social life moved along with it as well. So to keep myself updated, in the loop and able to see ALL THE EVENT PHOTOS FROM EVERYWHERE! I created my account and started migrating. The migration was not conscious, but it's what happens.

Anyway, lately I've hung out on one group called Elizabethan Costume, which unlike most other forums of over one thousand participants, is actually a civil place with a high signal-to-noise ratio. The other day one of the cooler people on there, Mathew Gnagy, posted a very rough version of a method to draft a 16th century female bodice based on a few measurements.

I downloaded the pdf immediately and poured over it. I took out an old newspaper, a tape measure and pens and drafted myself up a bodice pattern. Then I checked back on the group and discovered that one of the points I felt unsure about was mis-labeled and one measurement was "upside down". A new version of the drafting instructions was available. I poured over that, took my measurements again and did a second draft of a bodice.

After doing the first one I was glad that my internet had a little hiccup, because it was one of the few times I've felt non-content with the shape of my body.

On Saturday the first official sewing meeting of the year kicks off, and I will get new measurements and draft up a third version of the bodice, with the help of Helwig. I will likewise help her, and we will really get rolling on our new communal project. Gowns from 1575 England.

Social Media, what's it good for? Apparently some things.
liadethornegge: (awesome)
Pattern transferred to coif.

Stopping a moment to celebrate it.

Pressing on with the forehead cloth now.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
On the Nordmark Cope embroideries:
  • One packet sent off to Helwig, with template.
  • One Styringheim device fully outlined, second half-outlined before I ran out of floss. New floss acquired today.
On the wool brick stitch cushion seat:
  • Have almost reached the half-way point, with the front of the cushion "framed out" in the blue wool. Am as yet undecided if I will embroider the sides and back as well. Continues to be thoroughly amusing and therapautic.
On the coif/forehead cloth set (#3 if anyone's counting):
  • Materials have arrived, silk floss and imitation silver thread. This means that this project officially starts now. I think I will want to practice a bit with the silver to get a nice plaited braid stitch.
  • Pattern, not quite finalised yet. I will have to dedicate myself to finishing that off pronto. Tonight if possible. Because from now on I must dedicate much of my leisure time at embroidering this set. I am actually looking forward to it immensly!
Lia out.


Oct. 24th, 2009 10:15 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
At sewing circle today my Laurel sent me out to do pell-work. Sorry, I mean, basic research.

I was listless and uninterested so the suggested I play with Alcega for a bit. I leafed through him and found an intriguing pattern that I didn't quite understand. A Turkish morning gown can be separated from the Spanish morning gown by the addition of a hood. I didn't understand how the hood was constructed or attached, so I helped Helwig out a bit by cutting into a supposed chemise and made a scale model (1:8) of the full turkish gown. That still didn't fully explain the method of fastening, points of attachment and other details, so I cut into the former chemise some more and did a full sized mock-up of just the hood part.

Then I used Helwig as my full scale model and tried to pin it to her turtle neck in a couple of different ways until we figured it out. It was awesome.


My Laurel rocks.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
So, I've had a little more time to experiment with male clothing. Edricus wants to look like Viscount William in the end, so yesterday we got some toile fabric and pulled out a basic doublet pattern which I cut out and pinned together for a first fitting. I've not made any late 15th Century male clothes before, so it was mostly guess-work for me - however, I've seen William making his clothes at Aros sewing circle, and something must have stuck (I mean, it must have, right?). I applaud the choice of period as well; it's a good period for a man with nice legs and backside.

As suspected, the pattern was way, way off, and I cut away about half of the front panel, and significantly reshaped the back panel - to say nothing of shoulder seam placement. I think the pattern Edricus had bought off Handelsgillet started out as a modern coat pattern.

Anyway, a second iteration was then produced, and I even added the skirting at the hem for better effect. This one I sewed together on the machine right quick and it worked much better. I also marked on the pattern how to cut out the scooped U-shaped back-of-neck that you can see on some of the layers of the period.

In addition to the short doublet (front panel, back panel, front and back skirting, collar) I also drafted up a sleeve pattern from the Medieval Tailor's Assistant using Edricus' measurements. I was scratching my head for some of the instructions, and it's a good thing I've done it before with assistance, otherwise I'd be lost. So, sleeve is patterned, but we have not made up a toile to test it.

I do not feel up to making a pattern for joined hose. I've never seen a pattern in detail, nor seen it being produced, so I would be quite lost there, but Ed has done something similar before and seems confident he can make a go of it with the remaining toile fabric.
liadethornegge: (research)
Sewing Circle Extravaganza weekend over. Filippa safely back at home and for once not only a cyber presence at the sewing circle - and she's resolved to come back more often. We encouraged such thinking and I offered my spare bed whenever she comes.

The theme for the day was gloves and mittens, and both Helwig and myself cut out a pair of gloves out of supple leather. She's going for the big-cuffed embroidered kind, me, I'm going for the all-leather style favoured in paintings by Holbein, like the pair Charles de Solier is grasping.

I've alreay developed a small blister on my finger from pulling the needle through the leather, but it's thin enough that I don't need to make holes and then sew, I just push the needle through straight away. So far I've got one glove about a third done.

I also finished the embroidery for collar and matching cuffs for the shirt I'm making. I have enough thread left over to add further decorations to it, just have to decide which route to go.

Filippa also finished a pair of naalbound mittens. So over 50% of the sewing circle actually worked on the theme. The other two, namely Bengt and Hedvig, worked on armour pieces but they also brought chocolate cake, so all is forgiven :)

Unfortunately the other usual suspects were laid low by colds on four counts, and three people were visiting the Royal Armoury in Stockholm so we can't fault them for not showing up. And one of the cold-struck couples called and asked after sewing advice so they were working away at home.

We also watched "Paint Your Wagon," which features a couple of the best movie lines ever. Plus a knit-vest wearing and singing Clint Eastwood. It is part of the Aros Sewing Circle Lore, and we did our best to spread the gospel :P
liadethornegge: (aros)
I treated the entire day like a big sewing circle with its own locale, and I thought it went splendidly.

I had already arranged to fit the two daughters of our latest recruit for kirtle patterns, and that went quite well, I thought. The first young lady managed to stand still and behave for the fitting, while the second one moved around and giggled a lot, so I am less sure of the pattern for her, but since they are fairly young still, they really have no need of very exacting pattern fit.

I also worked more on the emblem embroidery for the coronation copes, and had a lovely feast dinner prepared as ever, by UlfR. It was delicious, yum.

I also dipped into Brianag's box of binders which she was selling at greatly reduced prices and came home with a pretty red binder for ... various things.

Maybe tomorrow I will find the inspiration to finish off the red petticoat finally. Maybe I'll do dishes, wash clothes and clean the apartment. Tomorrow will tell.


May. 28th, 2008 10:57 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
Q: Can one cut a kirtle out of only two metres of wool cloth?
A: Quite doable, and it leaves one with satisfactorily tiny amounts of waste.

Next step is to pick out appropriate interlining/lining for the bodice and make that up before cutting out the bodice in the wool. Skirt will be one full back panel (150cm), two straight front panels(2x40cm) and a pair of godets(2x30) to widen the hem to a near 3 metre total. Awesome. Watch my l33t piecing skillz.

And thus, my first red petticoat is started. Mark this day in the calendar. Mark it well.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Today's Sewing circle was spent in various and sundry ways. First, we had tea. Then we prevaricated. Then we got to fitting new GFD patterns - with varied results. Not sure yet if we did good or not, but we have new patterns to try out in practice.

Then, we got down to some serious tea with "semla". It was tasty, yes it was.

Proceeding then, we popped on Asterix&Obelix meet Cleopatra, while I manufactured and attached gold cord frogs to my waistcoat. Worked splendidly! When the entertainment ran out we changed over to a couple of episodes of Firefly until it was time for me to head home.

In all, well, I suppose I was productive. The waistcoat is now so much finished that I can wear it without having to rig anything special or find supplies in a panic. All that is left to do now is make it even, add frogs on the button-side so it looks symmetrical. And maybe a row or two of the gold cord along the lower edge of the waistcoat. And maybe the wings. And around the neckline. Possibly a row straight down the front sides, over and under the frogs with a little twisty thing between them... Yeah, I think I need reigning in as well. Don't worry, when I run out of cord I'll stop. After all, I only have ten metres, well, eight or so, left at this point.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Tonight, before arriving home from the sewing circle I finished my apron embroidery! Woohoo! I took the last stitch just as my alarm went off at Helwig and Johann's place to catch my bus, and on the bus I wove in the ends to stop it from unravelling. All that is left to do now is press the entire thing!

Unless I choose to add the second narrow line of embroidery that my original design had... Oooh. I could totally do it, I have plenty of silk thread left.

Also accomplished today: one newly fitted Florentine bodice pattern. I also did a trial layout on my green brocade and there is more than enough fabric for a nice train. I didn't cut into it, though, instead I switched off to my embroidery - which, again, I finished!

Pictures? Of course there will be pictures. In a little bit. Be patient.


Sep. 14th, 2007 08:31 pm
liadethornegge: (woe)
I've just spent however long it took, crawling around on my freezing cold floor, enlarging a pair of curved sleeves from Patterns of Fashion by first drawing out an inch grid on wrapping paper and then transferring salient points from the grid in the book to the grid on paper.

I say: ow. My internal organs are protesting being scrunched up, my knees are protesting being knelt on, my feet are protesting on account of them being cold, my calves are protesting the overzealous strain when trying not to kneel and my neck is protesting stretching hither and yon trying to spot the most likely crossing to tick off from book to reality.


In any case, I've now got the upper part of one sleeve drafted to life size. It should fit me fairly well, comparing to other patterns and measurements on me. Now the question is if upper and under sleeves are simple mirrors or not. I don't think I feel up to doing the same procedure for the under sleeve. I need a cutting table! And room to put it up. And room to store it. And waah, waah, waah. OK. I think it's time for me to switch from pattern drafting to tea and chocolate.


liadethornegge: (Default)
Lia de Thornegge

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