A hem

Jan. 28th, 2011 02:20 pm
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Once upon a time, a long time ago, I made a fully lined wool dress. The shell was a lovely black and red wool which reads as a dark plum, and the lining was a lovely soft yellow linen.

I had it almost finished at my first Double Wars (May 2005), there was only the hem left to do - which I did the night before the big court day with large basting stitches, and without cutting the length down to anything resembling appropriate.

I wore it like that for a bit until some of the large darning stitches started to run and some lining started to peek out.

At that point (June 2006) I took it in, ripped the temporary hem out, and ironed everything neatly and very carefully blindstitched the lining to the shell fabric to form an integral hem. And all was well.

I wore it to a few events, then the gown has languished on its hanger in my closet. I used it at Visby 2008 where I saw a picture of me in it and realized that the lining had seriously started to creep down. That shade of yellow is very visible when the lining is too long.

And now, finally, on Tuesday I brought the dress with me to sewing with Elizabeth here in Frostheim, and I ripped out the old, carefully stitched hem, I ironed the linen flat, and cut off up to an inch of excess length.

Then I proceeded to do a double fold them for the shell wool while we watched Shakespeare In Love, and on Wednesday after work I finished stitching a double-fold hem on the lining separately, making sure the lining is at least a finger shorter than the shell all around. The problem with a full skirt with lining not attached at the hem is that things can float a little too much and bunch up, so to combat this I attached the lining at every gore seam to the shell with a loop of thread about an inch long. This means that the layers will be kept together without forcing the issue.

Although hemming a gown is possibly the most boring thing in the world I feel it is worth it, because the dress itself is quite fabulous, and very versatile.

And so, the tale of the creeping hem is ended. For now.
liadethornegge: (Default)
There was no real need to get up very early today, so I didn't.

Last night I had packed my bag full of sewing goodness, as me and Elizabeth made plans to sew this afternoon. She needed to sleep after her night shift, and then had an appointment and at three she'd be ready for me.

I spent the morning looking at silly videos online, then headed in to town to drop off my mother at work, then drive on to the big pool in town where I proceeded to swim 1k. It took me longer than it used to take, but it wasn't all that difficult. I bought a 4-month-card which allows me to go as much as I want for the next four months. My plan is to make it a twice-weekly activity.

Then I went to one of the charity shops in town and found a cabling needle for my knitting, and a couple of tapestry needles for lacing up gowns.

Then it was off to sew with Elizabeth. SvartulvR was in Stockholm so not at home, and the two of us had a fabulous time chatting, having a lovely dinner, then tea and cookies. We watched Shakespeare In Love and it was awesome as usual.

As for my actual progress I have now ripped out the hem of my plum wool GFD, cut down the lining which had started to creep out in very unattractive ways, and have now re-hemmed the outer fabric and pinned the hem of the lining. This time, the lining is actually cut down, and I will hem them separately and only attach the lining to the shell at long intervals, not as it was previously hem them together as one.

I feel very pleased with this day.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
The next event I am planning on attending will be Nordmark's Civil War in Juneborg. It's scheduled for 3-5 October, so I have plenty of time to produce.

So, to the list:
  • Fix hem on plum GFD.
  • Make new GFD.
  • Finish embroidery on five napkins.
  • Make arrangements for HRM Fiona's comfort and coordinate ladies-in-waiting.
That should be enough. Although I'm sure I'll add small things on the way, as I always do.

Anyway, to recap a little more  from Visby, one of my favourite memories was walking into Visby late at night with the street lights throwing my shadow before me; my profile was so very, very lovely on the cobbled street.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
So, remember the re-hemming? How I conquered the atrocity going on at ground-level on my plum GFD? Yeah, well, I just went back through my archives and found a list of fixer-uppers in my stash where this little job is listed. Guess when I made that post. Go on. Guess.

You'll never guess.

June 30.

2005.

A Year Ago!

Bad seamstress! Bad! No cookie.

-----------------

Also, I totally would have worn my slippers and pattens today, but I figured I'd rather not twist my ankle and I didn't know how long a walk it would be, so wore mundane shoes instead on the premise "better safe than sorry".
liadethornegge: (Default)
Of course, in the case of hem needing to be done and seamstress out of time, the atrocious hemline beat me down in the first round. Then Inertia got me down for the second, which would bring the total score to 2 for the hemline and 1 for me. But I vindicated myself nicely today while watching "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" I thought. And anyway, it is a last-point-wins-the-game kind of thing. Yeah, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

To put it succinctly: I came, I seam-ripped, pressed, clipped, pinned, stitched and I conquered!

Look for visuals beneath this cut...If You Dare! )
liadethornegge: (Default)
.. am looking at the hem. Good grief I did a bad job at hemming that thing. Yuck. "Gör om. Gör rätt!" (Do it again and do it right).

-----

ETA:
I think I've got to take a before/after shot otherwise nobody will believe me. This is truly a horrible hemming job I've done. I don't know... well, yes, I do know. I did it on site at last year's doublewars, and I did it quickly. But that I haven't fixed it until now? The mind, it boggles.
liadethornegge: (Default)
I have now washed my eggplant, aubergine, plum, whatever gothic fitted dress. The wool itself isn't so bad, but the linen lining... I can't judge if the colour has changed since it's wet, but I don't think so. Still a cursory examination showed nothing amiss. It weighs a ton and a half wet and is now dangling off a hanger in my bathroom.

I also threw in the doublet bodice kirtle in the same wash - with the silver trim still on - and it came out looking just fine. It's all coarse linen so I put it in the warm air blowing dryer cupboard thingy.

Also with these two was my green linen tunic. All machine made and zig-zagged seam allowances. I threw that one in the dryer.

My pondering now has to do with the GFD. I don't know if I should just let it hang dry or if I should take it down and try to iron it dry. I will have to iron the doublet bodice dress before I put it away. I'm just letting it get manageably damp before I take it out of the dryer cupboard/closet/shed thingy. That thing also weighs a ton what with being made out of coarse, self-lined linen.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I looked deeper into my bag of assorted linen things to refurbish, finish or mend. In that order they are:

Again, I get very wordy... )
liadethornegge: (Default)
Oh bugger - once again I realize I did not hand my camera over to others enough - there are no pictures of me in my GFD. Bugger.
liadethornegge: (Default)
My progress somewhat halted after I took that photo and uploaded it.
doublet bodice kirtle rambling )

gothic fitted dress project progress )

Double Wars preparation, worries, rambling )

So who knows where my topic is a quote from?
liadethornegge: (Default)
Yesterday was a good, and productive day. Today has been somewhat less so.
Go on, whine whine )
Oh, yes: Seagate Barracuda -> Barracuda -> Bruce Springsteen + Monty Python = Bruce

Duh

Apr. 24th, 2005 12:59 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
Oh yes, sewing circle yesterday - Very Productive. I have my skirt made up, pinned to the bodice, just needs attaching and hemming. The lovely hostess got that amount done, plus she attached the skirt, stitched on hook and eye tape to her front closing and attached wings. Johan made almost an entire surcote to go over his armour, I also managed to stitch on and press down the extension piece to my GFD ready for hemming, and I made up the sleeves for the chemise - admittedly it was two left-sleeves so I had to fell the seam on one of them and call it the outside GRR - and pinned them into place.

Lots got done and I fell in love with the sewing machine there. It was loooovely.

Hrm.

Apr. 20th, 2005 11:17 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
Well, I'm looking at my galleries and I realize two things:

a) I need to finish the waist seam of the doublet bodice kirtle before I can stitch the pieces together. more details... )
and
b) My GFD sleeves look wierd. more details... )

I didn't hook up my new HDD either, but I got the Tower itself going without any problems. I need some expert assistance from brother to fiddle with hardware and he seems to be non-responsive. So, maybe tomorrow I'll have my nice big disk running.

and there I fell asleep in the middle of posting.

Notice...

Apr. 17th, 2005 03:38 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
Update notice - Did an entry in the fitted dress diary. Basically I edited last night's post and prettified it, as well as linked to the two new images.
liadethornegge: (Default)
On the bus to sewing circle I find, in the side-pocket of my usual sewing circle bag: PATTERNS! My GFD patterns, both body blocks and the sleeve! Jackpot!

I also got paid for the tablets I sold - ka-ching.

And, finally, I decided what to do about the hem of my gfd - I'll add a strip about ten centimetres wide at the bottom on the back only, stitch it on, treat it as one fabric and have it turned up and hemmed as usual. I didn't need to extend any of the lining because that was already long enough. I just have to actually sew it on now, but I cut out the extra pieced and pinned them into place at the circle.

I am also about 95% done with the chemise. I didn't have to draft a new pattern, can use the one I have, just need to cut those out, do the last metre or so of hem (total three) and sew in the sleeves and call it done. I felt much better about the whole project after I decided on the hemline for the fitted gown though.

I'm still concerend about my envisioned surcote for it - and the hose are nowhere near done, but I've made progress at least.

Whee! Anyway, rounded the day off rather nicely by going to a restaurant. Yummy asian buffet. Some Thai dishes and chinese dishes all mixed up. I liked the red curry best.

Anyway, profitable sewing circle today. Quite enjoyable. I even took a few pictures.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Doublewars starts in two weeks!! TWO WEEKS! How will I ever make it in time? I said I'd do a scroll for it as well - Aaaah! Gaah!

Panic-mode on, I think.

The ladies of the aotc list didn't give me licence to be lazy either. I think I might need to unpick the side seams of my GFD and take it in a bit right beneath my bust, as there is definate downward creeping of my bosom when I wear it. I have no trouble lacing myself into the dress, and I should in order to achieve fitted dress goodness.

Must also decide what I am doing with the hem. Leaving it as it is (too short) or adding a guard at the bottom. No, I still haven't decided, but at least I've let the dress hang up now so fabric will stretch.

At tomorrow's sewing circle I must produce a new sleeve pattern for the chemise. Gaah! At least the chemise is like, close to being done. Three long seams, one is three quarters finished (am opening the seam allowance, folding under and stitching down) and then I have one more long raw seam to do. The seam at centre front is cut along the selvedge, so I don't absolutely -have- to stitch that one down, but the others are raw edges. Then I just need to hem, finish the neckline and put in sleeves and it'll be done. Simple white single-layer linen chemise.

And let's not even get into Essay problems.

Whee

Apr. 14th, 2005 09:17 am
liadethornegge: (Default)
So, I read my usual lists this morning and find, in one message, that someone recommended my GFD Dress Diary for the links therein! How awesome :) I was all tickled pink and stuff. Of course, my links lead to either moderators or participants of said list, and to resources found while reading that list. I just collected them in the beginnig of the dress diary and posted that.

Yes, it's probably very silly, but I like it all the same.

Finally

Apr. 10th, 2005 06:07 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
So I couldn't quite decide what to do, but felt like sewing. Therefore I took out my linen and the pattern I had traced from my finished GFD. I put the pattern onto calico - in the hopes of having enough to make an entire pattern out of it that I could keep. Unfortunately, I had not enough to make into a full length toile in order to save for patterning. I had to settle with only the top half again. I cut it out, sewed it up and tried it on. Of course, it wouldn't close in front - with the curve it does need lacing. But it seemed to be well-fitting enough.

Taking the pattern then to the linen I made the body panels straight in back and front, and also straightened out the side-seam. The chemise will be quite simple, no gores, only what I could cut from my width of fabric in the sides is what it will be. That still gives me a 3 m circumference as it is twice the width of the fabric. I stitched up the front then - I didn't think, so I ended up with a seam down the front rather than down the back, but no matter - with linen and pinned the sides together. Then tried it on. I was able to slip into it without much problem actually, so that's all good. Then I laced on my middle layer gown ontop of that to see that my neckline would be lower than it. It looks as if it should, I will just have to turn it in a little in the front. And once sleeves are added that will pull out the neckline as well, so the chemise will be hidden completely by the gown.

So far a success, I am finding my fingers itching to turn the grey wool into a surcote. I only needed 2.10 metres for the body panels, plus the length needed for sleeves.

Which brings me to sleeves - I can't seem to find my sleeve pattern! ARGH! what the hell is it with me and patterns. I was doing so well with the 16th Century stuff. I have it all saved in plastic pockets in my binder along with not a few toiles saved. Apparently I can't keep track of my 15th C stuff. First I forget  my hose pattern at sewing circle and don't even realize it, then I loose the well-fitted toile/pattern for the dress and NOW my sleeve pattern is gone! Bugger. I'll have to draft a new one next week.


On a completely different note, I have been eyeing my curtains, coarse tan linen, could be made into wash and wear day-garb. Two long panels. Hmm.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Hmm.. eight hours of sewing circle, two movies watched (Return of the Jedi & Attack of the Clones) and my dress is still not finished.

I whipstitched the front edge together - and ironed it down while wearing the dress. It looks yummy, but it does have rather less of anti-gravity effects on my boobs than what I was aiming for to begin with. But that's ok, it still looks gorgeous.

 I tried pinning up all around where the ground level was marked. Only the shell doesn't even reach the ground at the back, it's up by I don't know how much. I don't like this part one bit. Not one bit.

I don't know what to do about it. I feel like just turning in as little as I can get away with in the back and going with the marked lin in front and not give a flying fuck about the difference in the hem. At least then it will be done for DW. If I don't like it, or if it goes wonky then maybe I can alter it afterwards.
...

Am pondering turning the grey wool that I bought for kirtle making into a surcote for this outfit though. I could do that. Still not 100% sure how i want it to look, but probably same cut, half-sleeves with integral tippet after a picture in the Grand Heures. 3 metres should be plenty for that if I skip the gores. I wouldn't have to line it either, necessarily. Maybe.

I could use some of the green pendleton wool for a kirtle if it needs be, maybe. Depending how much I would need for a bliaut... of course a bliaut does use up more fabric than three metres; so that may be a futile plan.

Of course, seeing Agnes whip out a couple of sporty elizabethan gowns for DW wash and wear makes me want to make similar things - and I have the bargain linen. But it would need lining. I might possibly line it with the light blue I was going to make into a chemise, and do it reversible like. One side green, the other pale blue. Don't know if I can pull that off though. I also feel like making them high-necked you see. I don't know though. If I want sleeves that takes more fabric again. And I'd have to piece the blue linen. Well, not if I pleated on the skirts of course.

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Lia de Thornegge

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