liadethornegge: (garb)
So, in the early days of the Internets, when rocks were soft and I was just starting out making 16th Century clothes there were two websites we would all go to. Festive Attyre and The Elizabethan Costuming Page. I was honoured to be a Featured Attyre with my first (and so far only) full Tudor court gown, with fur-lined turn-back sleeves and everything.

Yesterday I was even more honoured that my red petticoat was picked by Drea Leed to be the example of what a petticoat is: http://www.elizabethancostume.net/blog/elizabethan-petticoats/

I have been going Squee! like a total fangirl all morning :)
liadethornegge: (garb)
I went to Civil War this weekend.

I spent it chatting with people, doing the lady-in-waiting bits for Their Highnesses of Nordmark, went in to Baroness Dorothea's knighthood vigil, stayed up too late Friday night, went to bed way too early Saturday night, got up entirely too early Sunday morning, coughed up a lung or two and witnessed Dorothea becoming Drachenwald's first native female Knight.

Yeah, that seems about it; history made, great big whoop! :)

In slightly less amazing news, I received some injuries from my clothes. The red kirtle that I have worn and loved entirely too much is currently a little bit too tight on me, and I could get it closed only with considerable effort. As I was still coughing like a consumptive, I have lingering pain around my lower ribs. Squeezing and mis-used muscles, leave me in agony when I try to cough now.

"Vill man vara fin, får man lida pin" ... but I think I will try to avoid this situation in future. Clothes shouldn't leave armour bites is my firm belief!
liadethornegge: (research)
So yesterday I arrived back at my place around ten pm after an entirely lovely weekend with relaxed small-scale event and delightful people all around.

Glötagillet started on Friday morning ... )

With Hedvig on board, we headed for the train station  )

That evening Bob made an appearance. )

Saturday started with the fire alarm going off at eight ... )

All day people were working on their own projects, patterns were created, cut out and tried out in toiles and people got to work on old projects that needed input and direction. I didn't really do much practical work myself (except attaching an apron string which burst when I went to put it on) but my plan was always to mostly help other people and that was what happened.

Filippa managed to get her new (practical!) red kirtle wearable, and it was pretty, of course. Aveline got going on her new red kirtle and had many questions on what to do next, which I did my best to answer.

The feast ... )

The journey home ... )

I brought both my cameras with me, and had them near me all weekend, but I did not really have time to sit down for very long, and I kept busy so in the end I did not take even a single photo. Elisabeth, however, took a couple of lovely ones of me in my new red kirtle, one of which can be found in my gallery. I'm going to have to rely on other people's view of this event, but I don't mind, I was having a perfectly lovely time.
liadethornegge: (garb)

(With bonus shot from the front of how the hem hangs.) Worn with my new shirt, which resists eyelets by the convenient location of fifty bajilion layers of linen at the lower edge of collar and cuffs. Maybe I'll sew on flat ribbon to close it instead. Also, did anyone notice I've got my hands in my pockets? Yeah, pockets on a kirtle is only the best idea since sliced bread, let me tell you.

And now, I'm off to update the dress diary.
------------
ETA: And now my website is up to date with the red petticoat diary moved to finished status.
liadethornegge: (garb)
My red petticoat, sorry, My Best Red Petticoat, is now finished. Last post I showed the black velvet trim as I finished it, and today at sewing circle I finished off the hem in no time at all. It's astounding how long I've put that off, and when I got down to it, I was finished before all sewing circle participants even arrived.

After that was done, and I had gloated sufficiently (very important part of any project-not to be underrated), I started re-rolling sewing silk onto home-made spools in preparation for my class next weekend.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Finished the black velvet guarding on my red petticoat. FINALLY! Maybe I can finish off the hem before the feast of Glöta (Glötagillet) which is next weekend, and where I will teach a blackwork class.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I know I sounded all miserable and negative last week, and I may have said that the red petticoat would not be finished. Well, it was finished, at last.

I have fully lined the bodice in red silk, which looked very pretty when the dress hung in the sleeping quarters (unexpected bonus for me). I have also attached a strip of black wool to the bottom of the skirt. I did not think it was too short, but when I added the strip I realized that, yes, it was too short. The strip I used is in fact a bit of the same cloth that went into the Nordmark Coronation Copes.

The single line of black velvet trim on the bodice needs its companion, and the bottom of the extension strip needs to be hemmed. Other than that, my best red petticoat is finished.

I did not remember to ask anyone to take a portrait - naturally - so there are really no good pictures of me in it. You can see a little bit here, where I'm working on Lady Torunn's hair.

In any case, updating my website will only annoy me right now, as my galleries are still offline.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Sewing circle today, and I was quite the little energizer bunny. I suggested we have tea and cookies where we sat, sewing, rather than do it properly at the table.

To start with, I stitched down the main parts of the bodice lining in my red petticoat, then I gathered the skirt and whipstitched it fast to the waist all around, then I tried it on and had the hem levelled - mission accomplished.

Then I sat down to move a number of hooks and eyes so I can actually close it over the lacing, stitched in three more pairs at the top of the skirt, and then it was quitting time.

Left to do on my best red petticoat is:
  • Add silk lining inside shoulder straps.
  • Add velvet trim around bodice in pretty arrangement.
  • Add hemming strip around the bottom (as the skirt is kind of short).


Also accomplished today: laminating my gorgeous little bookmark/tokens for A&S displays and competitions. I am pleased, yes I am.

Fun stuff

Sep. 2nd, 2008 06:32 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
Provar liv, och testar sammetsdetaljer (2 Sept, 2008) Provar liv, och testar sammetsdetaljer (2 Sept, 2008) So, last night eyelets were finished on my red petticoat. Today I laced the bodice on, and tried pinning on the narrow black velvet trim I've got. I'm not convinced this is the best configuration for it - in fact I know it's not. I have other ideas how to attach it. Should be done in a jiffy.

Step the next is to line it with the silk I got for the purpose. Then I've got to attach the skirt to the waistline. And, finally, hem the skirt. If I am diligent I can have that last step ready to go by the sewing circle on Saturday - when I will have assistance evening the hem.

I adore how easy it is to get into a gown that laces down the front. And once I've got the hooks and eyes installed the front won't be flapping in the breeze like it is right now.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Fine hemp measured, cut out, ironed and lightly starched, to help me when sewing it together.

I had way too much fun with my measuring stick, and I got to indulge my inner control freak by pulling threads to cut along.

I was going to make it more of a basic layer, but I don't know if I want to add gores in the sides. I think I'll just go ahead and do side slits, because right now as I've cut out body front and back, sleeves and under arm gussets I've only used half the yardage (started with 3 metres). I might make another chemise or whatever with it. Or, I can save it and use it for veils.

I was bad and stayed up way way too late last night finishing an audio book. That means I've nothing left to listen to while I sew, which kind of sucks.

I have news

Jul. 3rd, 2008 01:26 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
All seams on the skirt to my red petticoat are sewn together and the seam allowances topstitched to either side. It is quite gratifying how gorgeous that looks. Now, of course, only the tricky bit remains - doing the bodice up properly. It is going to be a pain in the backside whichever way I do it.

I think I'll switch over to cutting out my new shirt instead.

PSA

Jun. 20th, 2008 09:48 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
Updated my latest dress diary - the red petticoat. Nothing much, nothing fancy.

I made two laces using fingerloop braiding. One yesterday, another today. I mean to use one for my corset, the other for the petticoat. Still undecided if I want to close the petticoat with hooks and eyes in front or no.

I brought with me the new fine hemp cloth. I intend to make a new shirt in the Sture style with it. It's certainly fine enough. Flash-warning though, don't go outside wearing only that shirt - you wouldn't need the water to win the wet t-shirt contest...
liadethornegge: (garb)
Argh. Unpicking hand sewn seams may well be my least favourite activity ever.

I came to the lower edge of one side seam when I discovered that I'd pinned the front panel on the wrong way out compared to the back/gore panel. Helvete! is what I said, a number of times, with feeling.

I was only doing the side seam of the skirt in the first place because I was avoiding doing eyelets on the bodice. *sigh*

I guess I'll go back to eyelets, finish that up - there are only twelve on either side this time - then I can try the bodice on and see how it fits. I'm just whipstitching around each eyelet, like eight stitches, so it doesn't really take much time. It's just boring. I'll finish them off nicely once I've got the shell mounted on there.

I can't believe I didn't spot my mistake when I laid the skirt out and pinned it. So annoying.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
Scribal night at my place tomorrow. I spent today working away on my red petticoat. It's chugging along nicely. It'll have pockets because pockets are the absolute bomb on kirtles. I love my pocket on the green English Fitted Gown and only regret I didn't make up a pair of pockets rather than a singleton.

This red petticoat will have pockets! Sweet.

I've also sewn four boning channels in the front of my bodice - leaving one unboned for eyelets. I intend to make it front spiral laced through all layers. I foresee very sore fingers before I'm done with those eyelets. *wince*

In mundane news ... )
liadethornegge: (website)
I've updated my clothing page! The website, she has an update. Most amazing. I whipped up a quick page on my newest project, the red petticoat.
liadethornegge: (research)
I am still not sure where exactly my box of interlining materials is. If I did I would be working on the bodice for my new kirtle at this moment. Although, truthfully, I could be stitching up the skirt as well. I'm not, however, sure I have any thread.

I could go with either white linen, or I do it with silk thread. However, I'm of old not a fan of blatantly showing white linen thread in my stuff just for the sake of it looking hand made. But I have no red silk sewing thread either.

Finish my big green Florentine gown? Well, sure, in theory I could do that, but I really want a sewing machine to do the hem there. It does not deserve hand work at this stage.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Fabric usage (May 28, 2008)This here, then, is the red kirtle/petticoat nearly cut out. The pile on the left is a back panel, two godets and two straight panels, in short: the skirt entire. In the middle is the scrap from the scoop in the skirt. Currently the only scrap I have.

To the right is the remaining fabric and the tentative bodice pattern laid out on top of it. Also shown are my tools: chalk, ruler and scissors. It was rather a good time I had with my luscious wool, sharp scissors and chalky chalk. A very good time.

Question:

May. 28th, 2008 10:57 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
Q: Can one cut a kirtle out of only two metres of wool cloth?
A: Quite doable, and it leaves one with satisfactorily tiny amounts of waste.

Next step is to pick out appropriate interlining/lining for the bodice and make that up before cutting out the bodice in the wool. Skirt will be one full back panel (150cm), two straight front panels(2x40cm) and a pair of godets(2x30) to widen the hem to a near 3 metre total. Awesome. Watch my l33t piecing skillz.

And thus, my first red petticoat is started. Mark this day in the calendar. Mark it well.

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Lia de Thornegge

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