liadethornegge: (website)
I've written up a paragraph and added a few photos of the sleeves that now go with my brown test doublet in the dress diary on my website.

Also, I'm looking at my ropa and I'm thinking: when am I going to use that? And I'm thinking I might sell it, if anyone wants to buy it off me. I thought 800 SKR might be a fair price.
liadethornegge: (website)
Gaah! I thought I'd be a nice, sharing person and do a page up right quick on the Alcega plate of a ropa. I've posted about that one before, how to make a ropa using only four measurements. Well, writing a full description of how to make it up certainly is much more involved than you would think at first.

I've gotten a nice bit of it done, but at this point I really have to ask myself: who am I writing it for? Am I aiming at someone who knows nothing about basic tailoring techniques or should I assume some sort of experience? The answer changes things drastically, and right now, I'm unsure who I am writing for. I feel like I am overworking it hugely.

So, with that in mind, would You, my readers, mind having a look at the article then come back and tell me what you think: http://swein.campus.luth.se/lia/garb/alcegaropa.html
Am I talking down, am I over-explaining? Aim higher? Lower? Give me feedback, pretty please!



ETA: I've gone in and made a few changes, and added the rest of the instructions. Hopefully, anyone should now be able to follow the steps on that page and make up their own ropa in no time at all. Please, if you have comments or suggestions on this article, comment here!
liadethornegge: (research)
So I was looking back over old entries, checking to see what brilliant thoughts I have had and found a reference to the English fitted gown. It was just an idea then, and it is nearly finished now. I'll probably skip slashing and cutting the guards, as all evidence points to single-colour strip down front and around hem only. Which means I only have to hem it and stitch down the guarding all around for it to be finished.

Anyway, along with the idea of the Efg was sleeves for the ropa. Now I did the layout on the dark green brocade for the front of a petticoat and a pair of sleeves, if you recall. Basically, forepart and sleeves. Well, what if I went with that idea, only turn it into a loose kirtle, with fancified bits down the front, around the hem and fancy sleeves, with grungy linen for the rest, as it will always be covered by another gown. The loose kirtle in PoF (p. 110) has the sleeves laced in as well, so they could do double duty for the ropa as well. How about that for an idea? I think I rather like it myself, and it would take practically no time at all. I could wear it with the English fitted gown, and it would show up, all spiffy and brocade-y in the front.

Of course, I could also concentrate on fixing all the little things that need fixing or finishing on my old clothes rather than start something new, but I'm a costumer, damnit! I want to make new and shiny clothes not fix stuff I've already finished once.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Ropa


Measurements to take
A: Measure from the side of your neck out to the point of your shoulder

B: Measure from the top of the shoulder straight down (ontop of bust etc) to the floor

C: Measure around the chest at nipple level (or wherever you are largest) add 4 inches.

D : Measure from top of shoulder to point where you measured C.

E = B - D

Now look at the diagram which is copied directly from Juan Alcega's pattern book (for interest the measurements he gave are still there. This is a layout on the fabric folded double.
The measurements he used are marked out and calculated in cm. It works fairly well, for a normally built person, but substitute your own if it differs greatly.

For the neckline, cut out a shallow dip in back and slightly more in front (see diagram)

For the sleeve, the straight edge is the cuff, the curved edge marked m is the sleevehead.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Well, I've come to a dead stop in my sewing. Once I hung up the kirtle I lost any sort of momentum I had - and I had plenty. I tried to pick up the silk veil that I have cut out and hem it. I came a third of the way. It's tiny, fiddly, fluid, and booooring.

I glanced over the list of my other projects and made faces at them.

I even became so unfocused as to (again!) forget how to use the delete-key properly. Augh! (mini-rcof)

Old stuff to mend is boring, whereas starting up a whole new! shiny! exciting! project seems more and more appealing to me. But I know, if I start another new one I will never get around to doing anything on the niggle-list.

Helwig said to me that the kirtle would be perfect to bring to the Civil War event, so I now have a deadline for that project (also a ride - hurray). I see no problem whatsoever accomplishing that, seeing as how I only have to mount skirt to bodice and hem it now. No eyelets and nothing else left. With this in mind I thought I'd start implementing my plan of single-period per event and bring only selected items from my late period wardrobe:
  • surcote lining kirtle
  • a chemise or two
  • ropa to put on if I go outside to watch fighting and it turns chilly
  • petticoat skirt
  • shirt?
  • doublet?
  • partlets, sleeves, coif, cap, apron and shoes (my lovely period shoes!)
  • knitted wool socks
For the ropa I think I have pretty much decided to make a pair of sleeves of the green brocade (the smaller darker cut in the same pattern as my tudor court gown that is, not the other one). A pair of snug sleeves seems to be the way to go, looking at my ropa inspiration images. With luck I'll be able to get a forepart out of the same cut as well - but we'll see.

Was also a good webminister and updated the shire webpage and sent the changes in to my new upload liaison. Who knows how long that'll take to go live.

And my flist is a little slow at the moment - nobody is posting pretty pictures to look at!
liadethornegge: (garb)
ropa-fabric
So I was pulling out the linen I aim to bring with me and turn into a chemise. In the same storage bag were my two different green brocade fabrics.

Well, I had a fabulous idea and had to try it out. The darker green I only have enough for maybe a jerkin. The shimmery green I have 5 metres of, (that's what I've been calling the "green brocade" all along).

Anyway, I had the idea that they might look good under the ropa. The dark as a jerkin/doublet and the green brocade as a dress under that. Or maybe a woolen gown underneath that.

I just had to take a photo to try it out, so here it is. What do you all think?
liadethornegge: (garb)
I went back in and added a little bit of info and some pictures of the copper cord and trim I used to add more bling to the otherwise black wool ropa. Now, the diary there is finally finished.

Ah yes

Dec. 14th, 2005 11:28 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
Right, forgot to say - The ropa is finished. Tada!
liadethornegge: (garb)
Hurrah, here comes the screw-up. I managed to forget loops at the top of the first course of cord, so the second sleeve of my ropa is now not an exact copy of the first. I didn't notice it at first, last night, it wasn't until I was on the way up at the second lap that I checked against the first sleeve. Whoops. Still, they're on the opposite sides of my shoulders, so people shouldn't be able to scrutinize the two side by side like in the photo above.
liadethornegge: (garb)
More bling - nice swirl at the end of the sleeve.

Yeh, and here's a bit of the swirl I want to do at the cuffs. This shall sufficiently bling up my previously all-black ropa, I think.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Last night I did a bit of trim application on the ropa, as I reported. Well, today I have photos and more firm ideas.
two pictures behind the cut )
The sleeves are not yet done, I want to do another row of cord on the inside of the first line, making it trim, cord, cord at the cuffs and cord, cord around the opening at the top.

In the turnings around the top of the sleeves I might also get a big fancy before I am done. I might also decide to add a line of my cord on the inside of the braid that goes down the front of my ropa. If I come up with some fancy swirls at the sleeves I might do one of those at the top and do a double row.

Anyway, technical issue with the couching down of the cord: In the picture above I've used red thread on the right and black on the left - which should I be using? I did rather large couching stitches for now as I'm still not sure which colour to use, and wasn't sure how I wanted it to look exactly, so it's attached more in the way of basted than sewn. The line wobbles quite a bit now with the long stitches, but if I use tighter couching the thread I end up using to couch it down with will matter.

Opinions? Suggestions?

Today

Dec. 10th, 2005 07:40 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
So, sewing circle combined with birthday cake at Helwig's place. It was lovely as usual. I added some bling to my ropa in the form of the copper braid all down the front closing and around the top of the collar. I pinned more braid around the bottom of the collar and arond the sleevecuffs. I'm going to be using the copper cord to add more bling around the cuffs and also around the opening along the top of the sleeves. It'll be lovely, yes it will. I wish I had had more of the braid though, as it would have looked even more bling with a double row down the centre front. If I've got enough of the cord I'll add a line down either side. Actually, might do it even if I don't have enough at home right now - it was cheap stuff.

Anyway, while I stitched on the braid we watched the Nobel Prize awarding ceremony and, as I usually do, I got a bit emotional. It's just so great. I get sentimental over the silliest things sometimes.

I shall now go back to stitching on more braid on the ropa and work out exactly where and how I want to add the cord - all while listening to an audiobook of some kind.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Always a boost to the old ego to show off your garb to an interested dorm mate who emits sounds of appreciation and awe at you for creating such things :)

I said I would lend her a book and brought her back to my room, upon entering I saw my doublet and showed her that as my latest work in progress and she asked me if I had any more dresses here so I showed her them all. She was suitably impressed.

This was on Friday, and on Saturday we had sewing circle. It was a nice affair as usual, and I got some patterns copied off for myself, narrow curved sleeves and paned sleeves as per Margo's Patterns, and also stitched in the new yellow linen lining in the collar of my test doublet. I had been silly enough to use the salmon coloured linen there and the yellow linen in the tabs. It won't do to show two different colours of lining so I simply cut out a new collar and slipstitched that into place ontop of the salmon linen. I also had time to start attaching the lacing strips. I got about halfway down one of them before it was time to head home.

I am looking forward to being able to try the doublet on ontop of a kirtle. It will be most interesting I think.

Today I spent some time going back over LJ entries to dig up the documentation I did here for the ropa and added a few links and pictures to the post-mortem Spanish Ropa dress diary and made it public on my site. I left out loads of stuff, but I didn't want to have it 95% finished for another day so I just put in the most important sources of inspiration and chugged on ahead.
liadethornegge: (Default)
I have not written about the progress on the ropa since after Crown, so I thought I would do that today. Last time I updated about this project was just after crown to say that I did not quite finish it in time. Well, I had marked off the hem length accurately and at the event I spent some of Friday evening sitting next to my goods for sale, in the good light, and basted the overly long seam allowance in place. It looked fairly horrid, but since I didn't wear it at all that didn't matter.

The following weekend we had sewing circle so I brought the neverending project with me and there cut off the excess and folded up a double-fold hem and stitched it into place on the shell wool. Sewing in this wool is no task at all and it went swimmingly.

However, when I had the ropa laid out on the floor to cut off excess I noticed that my lining did not match the shell in circumference at the hemline. That bothered me a bit since that means I could not do both in one fell swoop. So I did only the shell there and cut off the extra length in the lining and that is now just awaiting inspiration to run a zig-zag on the raw edge and a straight stitch on a seam allowance on the machine and the ropa will be all done. (Minus any decoration, braids, etc I might decide to add at a later date).

Pictures? No, no pictures. It's just a big black robe with vividly green sleeve linings. Besides  you've seen the old pictures already, right? Right.

I think that once I have worn the ropa to an event and have had a good pictures taken with me in it I will update my site with a post-mortem diary of the making of it. It is quite a different thing to do a dress diary while you sew as opposed to typing it up after the garment is done. I'll see what I think about the experience and perhaps do a re-design of the current state of my site.



Another progress report is due on the gothic army dress. Instead of regular Tuesday shire meeting this past week, myself and Princess Filippa had a tea-and-sewing get-together at my place. We had tea, gossiped as usual, and I managed to hem the gothic army dress which means that all that is left to do on that project is buttons and buttonholes on the lower sleeves. Sitting with that dress in my lap I fell in love, all over again, with working in linen. It is so responsive, so smooth, so lovely.

*ahem*

Anyway, the 'all natural' theme continues with that dress, as I have used only linen or silk thread to sew it up all by hand, the hem I did in silk since it doesn't really need to be any thicker than the fabric itself, also silk thread of an appropriate colour is much better at hiding than my thick black linen or thin white linen threads. Should I want to I can now wear that dress as is and simply roll up the lower sleeves to disguise the fact that buttons and buttonholes are missing. Of course, I have plenty of time until the next event I want to attend, so if I decide to do buttons there is plenty of time to do that last bit as well.

As far as the embroidery question goes, (if you remember I had pondered adding embroidery around the neckline of this dress) it has pretty much been dropped. I haven't thought about it at all, and I've no idea what I could do to beautify the dress. Speaking periodically (pun intended) there is no evidence what-so-ever of embroidery on such a prominent place on frocks from around 1410, so it wouldn't be authentic, but still a fun and pretty idea.
liadethornegge: (garb)
It was not a crowded meeting today, just myself and Helwig for the first bit, then Elisabeth and William joined somewhat later. Elisabeth had to leave between the first and second teas which was a shame for her, as the chocolate mousse cake that Johann brought was absolutely delicious.

I worked on the ropa, cutting the hem down, turning, pinning and pressing it into place and I then hemstitched the outer layer neatly. That left the lining which I have discovered is just a smidge too small so I can't attach it to the outer layer at the hem. I therefore left that til after the shell was done. I cut down the lining to size while we popped in Mad Max - Road Warrior on the DVD (my suggestion) but I didn't get much more done. I did one more double box pleat on the shirt's collar ruff, but that was it. I packed my stuff up and waited until William was ready to go as he offered me a ride back. At least I finally got the thumb out and did something about the hemming. I now only need to zig-zag the lining and turn in a reasonable seam allowance and the ropa will be done!

That is to say, the ropa will be done until and unless I decide that it needs braid or trim attached! There were no pictures taken, but today was a momentuous day: Sir Johann actually did sew! Usually he plays on the computer while the rest of us stitch away, but this time he had some projects of his own :)

Elisabeth also announced that she's looking for red fabric suitable to re-create the Princess Elizabeth dress that Filippa wore her version of at crown. I'm excited to see how that will turn out!

Now I have to re-pack my bag for the scriptorium tomorrow - w00t!
liadethornegge: (garb)
Right, check it out. I've got a couple of shots from the extra sewing day myself and Filippa had a week ago, plus two new ones.

http://swein.campus.luth.se/gallery/blackropa?page=2
liadethornegge: (garb)
So I finished stitching down the lining along the front on the ropa and also managed, after some fiddling, to clip the seam allowance and turn the lining in around the armscyes. That was fiddlier than it might have been. Anyway, it's finished now, so that's good. I tried it on right when I finished the last stitch and it still looks awesomely black and spanish and all ropa-like.

I would like to add some kick-ass trim to it though - right now it's just big and black and that's it aside from the sleeve-lining

Anyway, I put it on a hanger and have stuck it on a handy hook right by my desk. Just by eye the lining and the wool is not lining up nicely, but I'm hoping that letting it hang will sort any issues out there before I go to hem it. There's no accounting for stretch in fabric.

I also got to work ironing my things, the db kirtle and petticoats were all ironed neatly today. While I was doing it I also pondered spray-on-starch. The linen petticoat is not really the stiffest of petticoats, nor is the db kirtle. I don't know how I can go about making that though - ideal would be if it's something simple that I can make myself in any quantity. I don't know how that'd work though. Or even if I would want to starch a skirt. It would be good if the db kirtle didn't wrinkle quite so much though. I'm letting that hang as well from now until when I need to pack it.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Myself and Filippa had a small, extraordinary, local sewing circle with just the two of us this Saturday. We were both sewing anyway, and we made a day of it from noon til ten thirty or so. It was great. We also made some good progress. Myself on the ropa, and a linen veil, and Filippa on her Big Red Monster (aka the red Princess Elizabeth dress).

I took some photos, mostly out of focus on the hooks and eyes of my ropa (mostly deleted), and uploaded them. I also tried the ropa on over my mundanes. I need to do a proper test-fitting with all the real kit on underneath at some point. Farthingale on/off, and corset on/off to make sure I get the hemline correct. Granted, right now I only have the tudor court gown that I can wear with a corset, and I can't wear the ropa over that one - the fur sleeves won't fit in for one, and it's not meant to be covered up for another. But in the future I will be making dresses that needs a corset and farthingale so I've gotta try it out. I'm envisioning the testing session containing: farthingale, tudor working class, doublet bodice dress and the test doublet. I can't see me bringing all that to a sewing circle (that's enough garb for an entire event!) so I guess I have to do the fitting at home with somebody's help. Perhaps entice Filippa over here with promise of tea, cookies and/or chocolate.

Anyway, I installed fifteen pairs of hooks and eyes down the front, each 3 cm apart. I found I didn't need any hooks and eyes in the collar as it stayed put quite satisfactorily on its own. I also did herringbone stitch to keep the seam allowance of the wool at centre front in place on the left side as worn (where the eyes are) and pinned the lining ontop of that. I have to do the herringbone stitch down the other side as well, and then sneak the lining up to the hooks on the right side as worn. Should be an easy job to invisibly stitch that into place and then all there will be left is the hemming.

As for the linen veil, I cut out a circle of 70 cm in diameter on my sheer white linen (bought at Visby) and I had started doing a rolled hem all around it Friday evening and continued Saturday morning. I finished that veil when I got bored of stitching in hooks and eyes at Filippa's.
liadethornegge: (garb)
The collar sewn on.So I finally got pictures of the collar on the ropa. My third iteration of the pattern worked, as can be seen to the left, and yesterday I stitched in the silk lining, which makes the acetate lining look less nice. Still, it won't show.
liadethornegge: (Default)
This Saturday's circle was quite well visited, seven people altogether, and we had a lovely selection of cakes for our tea. I brought both the ropa and the gothic army dress to work on, and I finished felling all seam allowances of the collar. I also tried on the gothic army dress after stitching up the front seam from the end of the lacing down to the hem. I only did 44 lacing holes on the gothic army dress, as opposed to the 52 I did on the plum wool gown. I only stitched around the holes with silk sewing thread to keep them open, and did proper buttonhole stitch on two or three while at sewing circle.

Trying the gothic army dress on it looked good, fitting slightly tighter than the plum wool gown. Of course, I've worn that one a few times, and the green linen has never been worn really.

When I got home from circle I finished eighteen or so of the eyelets on the gothic army dress, and today I finished off the ropa collar with the lining. I went over to help Filippa fit her new red monster (she's making a the Princess Elisabeth portrait which should be finished or Crown tourney). The black silk is so luscious to look at - making the acetate look very poor in comparison. But it won't be seen when I wear the ropa, so it won't matter.

I tried to do the stitching neatly, and it worked well I think.

Left to do on the two projects is for the ropa: The front closing and hem. Gothic Army Dress: Finish oversewing the eyelet with buttonhole stitch and finish the hem.

I've done no work on any other projects at all lately. I tried to think about what to do for a blackworked partlet, but was distracted by other things.

I might be posting pictures a bit later, if I can get a hold of the photos taken by Isabel, who came to the sewing circle on Saturday.

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Lia de Thornegge

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