liadethornegge: (garb)
I will be finished with my gown by then. I will, I will, I will.

Actually, I don't have too terribly much left. I managed to stitch in the skirt entirely this week, as well as finish off the front closure with hooks and eyes over the lacing.

Still left to do, at sewing circle tomorrow, is evening up the hem, and hemming. Cutting out and making up a pair of huge sleeves and applying miles of black satin trim. The hem will go quickly, the trim will be dull but go quickly, the making of sleeves will be a pain in the behind.

So the plan for tomorrows sewing circle is

  1. put on the dress to have the hem measured out evenly

  2. invent and draft sleeve pattern

  3. For extra credit, make up toile sleeve in cotton (unsure if I'm going for extra credit)

  4. cut out actual sleeves and start making them.



I think that I will have to do boring hemming and trim application at home, during the week.

I also have some scribal things to finish for Spring Crown, special commission work. I'm writing up invitations for an invitational HF tourney at Double Wars. They've been fun to do, although doing ten identical ones is a little tedious.

At Spring Crown, when the dress will be finished, I will come turned out in an all new outfit. New red knitted stockings, new red knitted half-gloves, new black wool gown and new oxblood red leather shoes. It's going to be awesome, and I can't wait! It will be my first time in Polderslot (The Netherlands).
liadethornegge: (research)
I have in my stash plenty of fabric to make some new and awesome outfits.

I have a cut of grey wool to make a replacement grey wool layton jacket for the one I shrunk in the washing machine. It was an awesome jacket, with special button loops that I made as a 5-loop fingerloop (flat, round flat). I loved that jacket. And I shrunk it in the washine machine. But I'm totally over that now. I have the nice buttons left from the old jacket.

I have two cuts of black wool to make base kirtles. Front lacing, low square opening, some stiffening, possible pockets. Possibly with a plaquet in front to conceal the front lacing.

I have dark brown silk, and brown/bronze polyester brocade to make a high-class outfit. Maybe for a 1575 project. Which probably needs a new farthingale. Also new corset, maybe finish one of the two (2) I have started but not finished. I finally made a pinterest board for this project.

The first two are not exceptionally inspiring, but I miss a good jacket. The black kirtles would mean I would finally have a base layer that I can use with every other outer garment I already have. The third is more of a Project, more tricky bits and not entirely transparent to me right now.

All I have to do is decide which one to pick. Which one to pick..
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
While in exile in the Frozen (again) I've been working on a couple of things. First, a chemise for which I got my Cudgel War fee paid - excellent trade by the way - and some wool applique for Queen Siobhan II and finally something for myself which will turn into a wool replacement of a linen gown I've had for five years.

The wool is a small length which I had gotten before to make a shawl out of. It's a houndstooth check in black and yellow with green, blue and red highlights. Not anything I'd make a "real" dress out of, but it's a gorgeous light flowing wool, which I will use to throw on when I set-up and tear-down camp at Visby. Or for the first thing to throw on when I arrive at an event and don't want to spend half an hour dressing.

The idea is to replace the linen gown I made to be a kitchen slave at a Coronet tourney with a slightly more accurate and light-weight version in wool, so I am using the Greenland finds again, Herjolfsnes 39 detailed online by Marc I. Carlsson. My previous version I have described as the most boring dress ever, and it is tagged as linen herjolfsnes here on LJ. This version will be herjolfsnes39 wool, and as the fabric is yummy I think I'll like it a little more.

So far, I have cut out body panels (50 cm wide, 140 cm long), and gores, about 110 cm long and will end up adding something like 50 cm in four places to the hem. The sleeves are as yet not cut out, I didn't bring any sleeve patterns with me so I will have to wing it. Luckily since this is a very simple and non-fitted dress this will not be a big problem.

My goal is to have this finished for Visby. We'll see how that goes :)
liadethornegge: (garb)
So I finally managed to persuade my lord that he wants a later period outfit, and convinced him that a pair of nice comfortable galligaskins, a sleeveless jerkin to hold up the pants, a doublet over that and a skirted jerkin as warm outerwear is the way to go. He is concentrating on getting the knives that goes with that outfit, the belt and pouch, shoes and accessories. Once he realized he could add to his sharp-things collection he was on board.

We went through his fabric stash and found a suitable green wool twill. He has used the fabric already to make a pair of 14th Century hose, and thought it was too loosely woven so we put it in the washing machine before we even started. This meant the cut that was left shrunk a little bit, and I ended up having to reduce the original size of the trouser legs, and add some piecings.

Piecing is totally period though, and with such small bits needed was fairly quick to attach as well. I used silk sewing thread to stitch the wool throughout. Starting with green, then switching to black when I ran out of green. Mostly, the thread disappears into the wool, so the tint doesn't really matter so long as it's dark enough.

The outer wool I patterned to be about three times the width of his waist, and the cuffs about twice the width of the knees. They should end at the knees, but the outer wool should bag a little, so I made them too long by about twenty centimetres. That meant that in order for the trousers to end at the knees the lining had to be made to fit. I basically cut those out as a pair of tight shorts, starting from the same pattern that we had made a toile of for the outer, cutting them down to fit closely to the leg, and end at the knee.

I first put together the linen lining, needing no piecings, and making them as carefully as I could to minimize the bulk of felled seams. I pressed every seam allowance to either side and folded them under in a double fold hem basically. There is not too much pressure put on these seams, so backstitching with waxed linen thread will keep them together just fine.

Before I could mount the legs to the waistband I had to put in the pockets. They are basically a rectangle with the lower third of one edge cut in a curve inward. That edge is where the opening is, and while I just used a backstitch to close up the rectangle I simply folded back the edges of the opening and pinned them to either side of the side-seams in the galligaskins. You have to be quite careful to stitch the pockets in, so it is firmly attached to both sides of the seam, and also make sure to reinforce the side seam where it needs to open for the pocket. I usually do a buttonhole bar across the small distance for strength. Both side pockets has the upper edge straight along the waistline, and I basted this to the linen lining carefully so that they would stay in the right position and not swing down.

Then I made a waistband all in wool with a linen interlining basted onto the wool and onto this waistband I mounted the trousers. I had to make one pleat in the linen to get the required width around. After this I could then mount the wool onto the waistband. It was pleated all the way around to distribute the fullness of the trousers at the waist. Basically I made box pleats out of the entire width, then closed up the upper raw edges of the legs inside the woolen waistband.

For the cuffs I did not have as much fullness to distribute, and I also made sure to leave the inside half of the legs, in between the knees, flat. There is no extra width here, as it would be very uncomfortable to have extra fabric in between your legs. So the pleats in the wool went all around the outside halves. For the cuff I had linen on the inside and wool on the outside making a finished cuff of just under an inch in width. The waistband ended up almost two inches high.

The fly closing was the last to be finished and for that I made a little buttonhole placket, with five buttonholes which I mounted on the outside of one side of the opening, and five self-fabric buttons which I mounted on the other side. The waistband itself I chose to close with two hooks and eyes to keep it as flat as possible, as the waistband right in the front is rather thick with many layers of wool.

I tried them on myself and looked especially fetching. They were also very comfy. Ed has tried them on as well, and they are now safely stored away in his historical clothes chest. He's a very poor model, so I haven't got any decent photos. I suspect I will not get any until the entire outfit is done and he can adorn it with his sharp things.

Still, an entire project started and finished!
liadethornegge: (garb)
So on Saturday I made the pattern, on Sunday and Monday I created the lining which will keep the galligaskins (gathered trousers) hanging at the right heigh and pouf appropriately. Today I cut out the wool outer fabric, having to add piecings on account of not having quite enough fabric. I also reduced the width of my pattern by two and a half inches in the waist (a total reduction in width at the waist of ten inches) still leaving the waist more than twice the width of the actual measurement.

I've stitched in the piecings, and sewn up the legs into tubes, felling all seam allowances down with herringbone stitch and a prick stitch. Just now I have the two legs stacked one inside the other to sew up the crotch seam and I'm feeling pretty good. I've taken a few in progress pictures which I will be posting later on.

I'm using silk thread to stitch the wool, the linen lining I used linen thread for. I still haven't cut out waistband or edge binding for the knees. I've also left the trouser legs open on the outside for the last two or three inches - in case I need to add buttons there for accesss.

The side seams are prepared for pockets as well - I basted the upper part of the seams before felling the edges so I can easily pick the stitches out and insert the pockets. I think I will want to do that before I gather the wool to the lining and waistband. But the waistband and gathering has to wait until I have my model here to try them on. That's what I had planned to do at Sewing Circle on Saturday and I am exactly where I need to be to be able to do it as well.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
Hosted scribal night around my kitchen table tonight. Alfhilde, currently the Signet of Nordmark, asked if I could do something soon - this was yesterday - and I said sure.

So tonight she came on over and I did the calligraphy on one backlogged scroll, an AoA. I used a basic textura hand and wrote out a fairly long text with no hand cramping problems at all. I attribute this to the two weeks of continual practice I put in in the beginning of December as a part of Lady Kerttu's initiative "Drachenwald 30 day challenge" which meant doing some one thing every day for thirty days. She wanted to learn a calligraphy hand and I thought I could do the same so I started learning an alphabet of capital letters. I got bored of that after the first few days so for the next ten days I wrote out little poems, rhymes and a letter using the new capital letter alphabet as well as my go-to batarde hand. I only managed 13 consequtive days before it got untenable. The problem I have with any craft in my home is that it's very small, and there are two of us here, so I can't just leave everything out on the kitchen table all the time, because then there is no room for us to eat.

Anyway, thanks to those two weeks of practice I got much better at handling the pen, and at writing the letters (obviously), so now, even thought the text was quite long, I had no problems at all with my hand cramping.

I took a picture of the finished item (#53 on my internal count), but it still needs signatures and giving out. I'll wait until it's been handed out to post it.

I also worked on a couple of my own backlogs, a PCS, which is entirely finished now, and a commission piece which just needs a little bit of penwork to be completely finished.

------------------

In other news, I've been sewing for Edricus lately. After some convincing he has agreed that he could possibly consider wearing some late period clothes. He wants a practical mid-16th century outfit with leg coverings to the knees not too poufy and not too tight, a warm practical doublet and a warm practical coat, plus a pimp coat. He's very into the pimp coat, and when I told him there's cotton velvet at the local fabric shop available he got very excited about the idea of a pimp coat. Basically, what he means is a Learned Man's Gown as we'd call it. He insist on pimp coat, though, and he's soo excited I let him have it.

Anyway, I started in the trouser-department, only because I laughed all through making my Venetians a few years back and I still grin whenever I see a picture of them, or think of me in them. (They are hilarious! I wore them one day at Visby this past summer, and every time a certain Chevalier walked past me he couldn't help himself from bipping the codpiece. I suggested he had one of his own to squeeze if he felt the need - he blushed, I lolled.)

Anyway, (I have to stop these ellipses), I was immediately inspired by the fabulous facebook group Elizabethan Costume, and one person there in particular who posted a picture of one pattern layout from the Anduxar pattern book which was a pair of trousers and a doublet laid out. They seemed to create the sort of look I was after so I measured my man and drafted the pattern according to the layout. I did this at last week's sewing circle, then I cut out the one leg and had him try it on and with a little bit of tweaking I had a pattern.

On Sunday I continued by making a pattern for the lining of the trousers, or "galligaskins". Since the outer fabric is meant to be gathered and pouf a little, the lining has to be a little shorter to allow the outer fabric to flow and fold nicely. I took the base pattern I created on Saturday, adjusted the length and waistband to fit Edricus more closely, tried them on and had to adjust the crotch seam. I made it deeper in front and shallower in back, and I also cut down the height of the front waist by about an inch. Then I cut this out in linen and machine basted them together. After trying them on I could also determine where the fly should start (lower than where I had stitched them).

On Sunday and Monday I took the linen lining apart and handstitched it back together, felling all seams. I have yet to cut out the outer fabric - but it will be in a forest green wool which we pre-washed to felt it a little bit. It shrunk, though, so I will have to piece the trousers. But seeing as the layout in Anduxar shows the trousers pieced there as well I am not too bothered about that. The only problem now is how exactly I should cut them from the fabric. Edricus also wants pockets, which will go in the sides, so I could cut them to include a side seam. I have laid the fabric and pattern out on my floor and started with the puzzle, but it fought me, and if I continue now, after the scribal night, I'm afraid I'd make silly mistakes. The plan will have to be to cut it from the cloth tomorrow.

Edricus is away in Visby the entire week, so I can't fit them on him until Saturday when the next sewing meetings is scheduled. I expect to be laughing all that day too :)
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Sewing circle this past Saturday was the first after Kingdom University and I had no idea what to do.

I had a think and decided it might be time to finish some of the projects that are almost finished. For example the hemp corded corset I have so far done all by hand and only lacks edging, and for another the blue brocade GFD which I cut out and started up in Frostheim quite some time ago now.

I brought both of these to the sewing circle, and come half way along the top of the corset, or stays after Queen Elizabeth's effigy. The last time I tried it on it didn't fit me properly and I got mad at it. Maybe it won't fit me properly now either, but if I at least finish it, I can tick that box and if needed throw it out. I am hoping to be able to build a wardrobe on top of it though, as it was more comfortable than my old pair of stays.

As for the blue brocade GFD I was much farther along on it than I had guessed. Basically I only had to do eyelets, close up a little more of the front seam, then fit sleeves and hem. So I started on the eyelets while we watched The Borgias. Pushing the awl through the entirely plastic (polyester) brocade and the fairly sturdy linen lining was not much fun, and I ended up with a bruise on my solar plexus as I used it to anchor the awl while I pulled the fabric towards me to open up the eyelets. Ouch.

I finished the eyelets on Sunday at home, and maybe I'll try it on today to see how it fits.
liadethornegge: (vapen)
Yesterday night, The dress was completely finished, including mounting points for sleeves, front closing, lacing cord, hemming EVERYTHING.

This morning I've tried to set my new suite of ruffs using only my fingers. They're not going to be very smooth in appearance... but they ought to hold approximately the right shape. I'm going to have to figure out a way to set them properly for future uses.

Yesterday I also tried it all on. I finished! On time!

Tomorrow Sir William is coming by to pick up most of the luggage for Kingdom University, Thursday evening the ferry leaves and the event starts :)
liadethornegge: (vapen)
I went over to Helwig's place yesterday for some vital fitting assistance. My vigil gown is nearing completion, and I can see how it will look in the end, and I'm so happy with it.

The first fitting was no good at all, after I adjusted here and there and tried it on for the second time Helwig said "That's better. NOW I can believe you are my apprentice!" :)

She wasn't wrong either. The pattern is right, but no matter how right the pattern is, it has to fit a person right to work properly.

Steaming along merrily on the project. Might even finish it with weeks to spare :)

Still won't post previews though, and I'll only work on it at home from now on, I think. It's a silly thing, but I'd rather it be a surprise to most everyone until I put it on for real.
liadethornegge: (Default)
The vigil gown project began, officially, when I put scissors to fabric at the Sewing circle on the 1st of September.

I freaked out a little, I panicked a little, and then I sweated a little. But skirt panels and sleeves were cut out. The sleeves I also cut a lining for, and started sewing them together into tubes at the sewing circle.

On Sunday I finished the two sleeves, and top stitched the seam allowance of the wool to either side, and inserted the lining into the shells and basted it together very carefully. I also tried them on, and although the sleeves are a little tight, I think I will be able to wear them.

I also made and cut out six pieces for sleeve-top decoration. I intend to make a simple version of the baragoni I made for my Florentine gown. But more English in style, so wider strips, and shorter. Much more restrained. Also, no fluffy white silk pulled out between the strips, only the white wool sleeve will show on the inside. I will line, or edge the panels, with green silk, to add a little colour and visual interest to the sleeves, which otherwise will only have two strips of green silk running parallel to the cuffs.

On Sunday I also cut out the lining for the skirt, and today, Monday I stitched together the front panel and the godets which widens the skirt just a little bit. The back panel is done the same way as my Red petticoat, and the front panel is taken straight from my Alcega petticoat pattern. I will have to cut it open in the centre front to enable me to open the gown in front with lacing. I have also made sure to leave a bit of a gap in one of the side godets, so I can insert a pocket. Just because I can. I would have added pocktes on both sides, but I forgot and just stitched straight through my markings. I could undo it, but I figure one pocket is better than none, and I don't want to be weighing myself down with stuff in this particular outfit anyway.

I still haven't cut out the bodice, which will be in one piece and front lacing just like my red petticoat and the black velvet gown. I also haven't cut out the tabs which I will put into the armscye. They'll be fairly modest, stand straight up if I can manage it, and wool. I'm unsure if I want them to be wool and silk, or wool and lining, or just wool. Since they'll be standing straight up, I might just make them wool lined with wool so both sides of them look the same. Very tempted to post sneak previews, but I will resist!
liadethornegge: (research)
Purchases have been made, and work has started!

I bought The Fabric the other day. I have linen enough for all I need to make. A few days before leaving for Up North over July I bought the lace trim for a suit of ruffs. I have the fabric for trim, and have scouted for more contrast fabric. I have three options, one more expensive than the other, but it's a contrast so I don't need a whole lot of it. I just need some taste advice for the choice.

Today I started on the suite of ruffs. Calculating I need 6 times the collar and cuff lengths for ruffs that's a lot of hemming to do. At least it's no use doing drawn-thread hemstitch, because the hem will be covered up with the trim anyway and only make the edge weaker.
liadethornegge: (research)
... to finish or mend!
  • Red petticoat - needs the lining stitched in where, for the third time, it's ripped out after wear. Along the front and also where I had to piece the silk lining.
  • Turkish morning coat - attach the six edelweiss buttons down the front as decoration
  • Black velvet petticoat - re-finish the temporary hem
  • Nobelese Largesse project - finish  and send out (hopefully by next week)
  • Dragon Rose Embroidery - finish and deliver hopefully at Visby
  • Silk standard - hem and attach sleeve by Visby
  • Blue brocade GFD - finish
  • Front laced corset (plastic boning) - remake
  • Front lace corset (hemp rope boning) - finish binding all edges, sew shoulder straps
  • Brick stitch embroidery, pouch - finish the linen bits and make up into a bag
  • Silk veil - finish hemming it already!
  • Blackadder quote scroll - paint
  • Helwig's Laurel scroll - paint
  • Backlog PCS - write, sketch, gild and paint

Maybe I should, like someone I know, start my own Costume Finishing Month...

Of course, at Coronation last weekend I also bought home with me some barley starch with the intention of making a suit of ruffs. My black gown as well as my English fitted gown needs a suit of ruffs to be properly finished outfits.

Yeah, went to Coronation. The trip there with Sir William and Lady Isabetta was splendid. Me and Edricus were picked up at Stockholm Central station, we pretty much went straight onto the ferry, had a grand time on the boat, slept and when we arrived in Åbo we met up with Sven and Siobhan, Nattfari and Efridis and Anna, Erasmus and Jonna for breakfast in a local shopping mall. That's where I bought the starch. Then we made up a caravan and headed to the site. The schedule was perfectly roomy with lots of time to just be and hang out. The sun was out, and I hadn't really packed for that sort of weather, so I pretended to be a landsknecht and went around with just a shirt and my kirtle closed at the waist but with the bodice left off. But I did wear triple headwear (forehead cloth, coif and cap) and got approval from the local attack laurel for such unseemly un-dress.

The Coronation of Paul and Aryanhwy was a pretty much painless transition from Sven and Siobhan, and courts (there were three of them) were all fairly short and speedy. I heard complaints when Paul and Aryanhwy's first court was too short so that a member of the populace only had half a beer!  :)

I was also able to, finally!, finish the shirt I made for William's vigil. It needed some shoulder reinforcements because the fine hemp I used is a little too fine to be left to stretch indefinitely.

On the way back we stopped in Åbo again, because the evening ferry gave us plenty of time for touristing, so we visited Aboa Vetus, which is an AWESOME museum where you can actually walk through the streets and houses of medieval Åbo. Awesome stuff. This was a recommendation from several of the locals, who also recommended we find the restaurant Trattoria Romana - by reputation the best Italian place in Finland. They were not wrong. Nom nom nom. We plan on going back there on the next visit to Åbo, which might happen around Kingdom University which is also in this area this fall. Other things to see there is the Castle, and the museum in the Cathedral which houses some awesome (reputedly) embroideries.

I am working through the photos from the event and from the stop in Åbo. Never fear.

liadethornegge: (Default)
I have been very bad about updating my livejournal. Partly because writing updates on facebook is much faster, partly because I've been working on "secret" projects so couldn't update continually without spoiling things. Partly because LJ has lost some of its readership to the aforementioned fb, me included.

My 39:th project: AoAAh well, there is plenty to talk about now then. I've done scrolls, quite a few.
I did a backlog scroll for Elisabeth Gottfridsdotter. She received her AoA at Midsummer Coronation in 2009 from Franz and Willhelmina, and this spring I took over the backlog and finished it for her as number 39 (here before gilding).

My 40:th project: Vita Portens Väktare40 (to the left), 41 and 42 were all given out at Nordmark Coronet (Stigot's VPV, SvartulvR and Elizabeth's viscounty) plus a prize scroll which I forgot to number it gets to be #47. It was the prize scroll for the A&S Competition, and went to Niamh.

#43 was a Court Barony with Grant of Arms for Felicitas Schwartzenbergin that she got upon stepping down as Gotvik Baroness at St Egon. I had no time to also make Clemen's CB scroll which irks me a little, but that's reality.

#44 was filling in the calligraphy on a blank scroll, Lali Ingermarsdotter received a Ljusorden (Nordmark A&S award) also given at St Egon.

The Queen (Siobhan) went off to an event down in Frankmark on her own and two gentles down there received Award of Arms, so Franck vom Berg and Carrisma vom Berg got scrolls 45 and 46. Thankfully I only had to do calligraphy for those as the Queen had a couple of blanks ready.

At Double Wars I was roped into some stunt scribing - doing calligraphy on two scrolls. One backlog for Eira and Torbjörn given to Hroald Pai (48) and a PCS for Vitus Flavius (#49). These two I have no pictures of at all unfortunately. I didn't have the wits about me to take pictures of them.

For Double Wars I also made a shirt for Sir William of Richwood's vigil, and a table-runner with his device, initials and a Knight's chain. I also half-finished a napkin with a Dragon Rose emblem. I chose to do a slightly too large rose to be able to finish it, so I am still working on it. Stigot won it in the raffle at the end of the war, so I know where it needs to end up :)

Backing up again, I finished a black (cotton) velvet 16th C gown for Nordmark Coronet Tourney which might be my new favourite item of clothing. It's wool-lined so nice and warm, it fits just right, and has sleeves. Plus it fills the slot of 'black velvet gown' that I've needed in my wardrobe. I wore it in the pretty dismal weather conditions at the Coronet and was not even a little cold where it covered me. And it looks pretty good too.


Silk painting: Finished flagDuring the Easter holidays we booked a little household activity: painting silk standards. Isabetta did most of the preparations and brought the paints, gutta, brushes, paper for templates and she and William purchased lumber for frames. Me and Edricus and Helwig and Johann rounded out the numbers and we worked pretty much a full day on Friday, Sunday and Monday to paint eight silk standards. We each made a personal one and me and Helwig cooperated to make two household standards with the remaining two bits of silk. Mine still needs to be hemmed and attach a sleeve to put it on a pole. William, Isabetta and Edricus' standards all flew at Double Wars, and the two household flags were set up in William's vigil tent and looked awesome.

I also made a little patchwork pouch for Kerstin of Medeltidsmode. The pincushion I made for myself was stuffed with fabric samples from her, and the remaining pieces of wool samples I made up into a little bag, lined it with more of her summer-weight wool and then I braided a silk drawstring for it. She liked it when I handed it over to her at Double Wars :) The only picture of that one though, is from a distance and not very good. Again, I finished it on site and forgot to take my camera out!

Lately I've been working on a bit of leather tooling. I took a class during Double Wars, and it de-mystified the craft for me and gave me the courage to try it. I'm going to enter my first piece in the Kingdom A&S Competition at Coronation. Just because I was already going to write documentation to go with it, and a deadline is sometimes a good thing. It's supposed to also be a "secret" project, so until it reaches the recipient I won't post photos. Also, it's not 100% finished either :)

And now, I will post the above, and go see about uploading photos to update this post with shortly.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Yesterday was sewing circle Saturday, with cybermeeting capabilities :)

Me and Edricus, arrived to find Elizabeth and SvartulvR already there. They had to leave fairly soon after though, but William later came too. Through most of it, Filippa also joined in via skype on Ed's laptop. Webcam and voice chat - yay!

I applied the last of the trim to my black velvet dress. Instead of adding it down the back of the arm seams, I added it down the front of the skirt, to tie skirt and bodice together a little more, visually. It turned out very well in the end. Edricus worked on a new pair of full length hose, Helwig wove the edge of her liripipe hood of laurel-bling, William checked yardages, and sought inspiration and guidance, Filippa felled hems and took opinions as to means of closure of new gown.

There was also an epic kladdkaka.

In short, all the things required of an Aros sewing circle. We made it home a little before one am.
liadethornegge: (Default)
At the Aros Fencing Camp I started knitting a flat cap according to Mistress Helwig's instructions. I finished it in the last week, and the only thing missing was the felting, or fulling rather. I made one in red using six whole skeins of the yarn and it turned out rather large.

Yesterday I went over to Helwig's place to sew and hang out, and she had the right detergent to do machine fulling so we threw the red flat cap into the washing machine on 60 degrees. When it came out it was still rather larger than needful and not as fulled as I wanted it, so we returned it to the machine and it went through again and after the second cycle it came out pretty nice!

I ironed it, and then we put it on a marble-top table underneath six volumes of an encyclopedia to make it nice and even.

My very kind Laurel also finished for me a knitted flat cap in a grey tone which wishes it was black (as per my request) and threw that in the machine as well. It only needed to be washed once to achieve an even higher degree of fulling than did the red one. Our theory is that the black yarn was much less treated than the red. The dyeing process probably battered the former a bit more, and the dark grey may well be a natural color, so took less effort to full.

I ironed that one as well, and added that to the stack out on the marble-top table.

So I went to a craft day with one almost finished flat cap and came away with two entirely finished ones!

I also finished the shirt for Lord Edricus, and got a few stitches nearer on finishing my own cotton/linen blend summer shirt. *sigh* But it was so boring I nearly died, despite having True Blood to watch.
liadethornegge: (Default)
This August has been a bit busy, event wise. Starting with ten days in Visby, continued with five days at Raglan, and finally a day-trip visit to the Aros Historical Fencing camp.

At the last event, I started a knitted flat cap, with instructions and yarn from Mistress Helwig. She taught a workshop on her version of the knitted headwear of the 16th Century with myself and Druda as students. I chose the red yarn (Drops Alaska) for mine, and today, after having bought TWO extra skeins to make a total of six, I finally finished it.

It's a big circle, with an attached brim, made by starting from the centre going out to make the top, then decreasing to make a brim inward, then out to the maximum diameter and back in again to fold together to make the actual brim.

I stitched together the last two layers at the inside with the same yarn to make a solid double-layered brim. It is fairly heavy, right now, and I still have to felt it. Either in the machine, or by hand. We'll see how that goes.

But now on to another shirt. I am finally making one for Lord Edricus, who has great need of one. I bought some very fine natural linen at the market in Visby which I've finally cut out now. I think it'll be nice once it's done :)

I've also got a few projects going right now of a scribal nature. I'm re-making the Dragon's Tear scroll I made for Double Wars because it was truly not fit to be handed out. It is also for Edricus. The new version will be much better.

I've also started on a blank scroll for a Principality A&S award. I thought it was going to be for a commission for Crown, but when I got the name the style didn't match, so it's a blank to be finished at leisure, and I've already gotten going on the real commission scroll for Their Highnesses court at Crown Tourney.

Those three, plus of course the unfinished Laurel scroll for Helwig, and a commission for His Highness SvartulvR which I may have to start over on as well, are current projects. These are all good reasons for me continuing with regular scribal nights at my place :)
liadethornegge: (Default)
Not quite the ultimate truth, but not a lie either.

The last year and a half I have not been doing very much in terms of projects for the SCA. I've been busy doing other things. In the spring of this year I took over a kingdom office, and have had some added paperwork and administration to deal with there. I was going to do scribal work, but lacked the appropriate set-up to get things going. I started two dress projects without getting anywhere, but I did do some embroidery and smaller projects.

I have been fairly good at updating the Project Finished list that I've got posted at the top of my LJ, so you can see there the items I have finished this year. The main one being the metal thread embroidered coif.

I have also finished one Viking shirt for my new liege lord, Prince SvartulvR. Ah, yes, SvartulvR won the Nordmark Coronet Tourney for his lady wife, Elizabeth of Woodbury, and I had told them before the tourney that if they won I would be happy to assist them as a lady-in-waiting. They did win, I repeated my offer, and Elizabeth accepted it before I had even finished my sentence :) They did only the bare minimum at their investiture court, but SvartulvR was at Visby to accept oaths of fealty, so I went in and pledged my service for the reign in such matters as the King and Queen does not already have my oath.

Before the Coronet Tourney I had also brought with me some belt fittings which I asked SvartulvR to make copies of for me, so for that work I had already promised him a shirt of my making. I took measurements and finished it by Visby. I haven't seen him in it, but it should fit well enough. So one more shirt for the high and mighty done :)

I also made about ten little bags of black wool, lined with linen, fitted with drawstrings to close them and carrying straps to suspend them from belts etc. I made them to give away as prizes at the Kingdom A&S Competition, and as thank you tokens for the judges. I think they were appreciated. I made the drawstrings etc out of fingerloop braids in the Kingdom colours.

I also made one larger bag for myself using my colours (black, green and white) to use as a new sewing supplies bag. It is pretty spiffy, even if I do say so myself. The red cloth bag I have been using up until now is note quite colour fast and has discoloured a couple of projects before. Also the fabric in that is a Christmas theme fabric, so I'm glad to retire it.

I also made a cotton/linen blend shirt for my Laurel, Mistress Helwig. Kerstin of Medeltidsmode.se had some light-weight fabric with her to Double Wars which lots of us purchased. Helwig and me among them. I took some of her yardage and turned it into a shirt for her, with neck and cuff frills, and her initial embroidered on the front panel. I have also started and almost finished one for myself. Currently I'm stuck at the step of gathering the neck ruff into the collar. Boring!

I also made some new stuff for my Visby encampment. Chief among them a seat cushion for my break-down bench, two pillow-cases for throw cushions and one carrying bag with shoulder strap, all out of the same gorgeous cotton fabric I found at Ohlsons Tyger&Stuvar. The bench cushion can be seen here in situ on the bench in camp at Visby (look for the blue and white fabric in the lower left corner).

A hem

Jan. 28th, 2011 02:20 pm
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Once upon a time, a long time ago, I made a fully lined wool dress. The shell was a lovely black and red wool which reads as a dark plum, and the lining was a lovely soft yellow linen.

I had it almost finished at my first Double Wars (May 2005), there was only the hem left to do - which I did the night before the big court day with large basting stitches, and without cutting the length down to anything resembling appropriate.

I wore it like that for a bit until some of the large darning stitches started to run and some lining started to peek out.

At that point (June 2006) I took it in, ripped the temporary hem out, and ironed everything neatly and very carefully blindstitched the lining to the shell fabric to form an integral hem. And all was well.

I wore it to a few events, then the gown has languished on its hanger in my closet. I used it at Visby 2008 where I saw a picture of me in it and realized that the lining had seriously started to creep down. That shade of yellow is very visible when the lining is too long.

And now, finally, on Tuesday I brought the dress with me to sewing with Elizabeth here in Frostheim, and I ripped out the old, carefully stitched hem, I ironed the linen flat, and cut off up to an inch of excess length.

Then I proceeded to do a double fold them for the shell wool while we watched Shakespeare In Love, and on Wednesday after work I finished stitching a double-fold hem on the lining separately, making sure the lining is at least a finger shorter than the shell all around. The problem with a full skirt with lining not attached at the hem is that things can float a little too much and bunch up, so to combat this I attached the lining at every gore seam to the shell with a loop of thread about an inch long. This means that the layers will be kept together without forcing the issue.

Although hemming a gown is possibly the most boring thing in the world I feel it is worth it, because the dress itself is quite fabulous, and very versatile.

And so, the tale of the creeping hem is ended. For now.
liadethornegge: (Default)
There was no real need to get up very early today, so I didn't.

Last night I had packed my bag full of sewing goodness, as me and Elizabeth made plans to sew this afternoon. She needed to sleep after her night shift, and then had an appointment and at three she'd be ready for me.

I spent the morning looking at silly videos online, then headed in to town to drop off my mother at work, then drive on to the big pool in town where I proceeded to swim 1k. It took me longer than it used to take, but it wasn't all that difficult. I bought a 4-month-card which allows me to go as much as I want for the next four months. My plan is to make it a twice-weekly activity.

Then I went to one of the charity shops in town and found a cabling needle for my knitting, and a couple of tapestry needles for lacing up gowns.

Then it was off to sew with Elizabeth. SvartulvR was in Stockholm so not at home, and the two of us had a fabulous time chatting, having a lovely dinner, then tea and cookies. We watched Shakespeare In Love and it was awesome as usual.

As for my actual progress I have now ripped out the hem of my plum wool GFD, cut down the lining which had started to creep out in very unattractive ways, and have now re-hemmed the outer fabric and pinned the hem of the lining. This time, the lining is actually cut down, and I will hem them separately and only attach the lining to the shell at long intervals, not as it was previously hem them together as one.

I feel very pleased with this day.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I bought some mystery-fibre marked as wool for cheap the other week, with the intention of turning it into a quick and cheap 16th Century kirtle.

Tonight I cut it out on the kitchen floor.
From 2010 Brown Wool Kirtle

I used the pattern from my red kirtle, but added a side-seam, and cut the back as a slight V-shape. I still haven't gotten that one right on a kirtle, so I thought I might give it a go.

If I'm feeling perky in the morning I'll put it under the sewing machine - if I have any thread, that is. I intend to use the sewing machine as much as I can on this project because of
  1. low quality, cheap fabric
  2. the need for a new kirtle this weekend
  3. the need for a no-frills, no worries-if-I-spill-on-it kirtle
  4. lack of other supplies at my current locale
That's right. I know how to use a machine, and I'm not afraid to do it. Usually it's just more fun to do it by hand.

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Lia de Thornegge

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