liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Sture shirt version 2.0 - An overview. (Apr 23, 2007) The lower hem is completed, and I pressed the entire shirt in its current state. Then I could not resist laying it out on the floor and taking a photo. It's a bit blurry, but you see all the details in it clearly in any case.

The neckline, as measured, is 120 cm around, and the measurement of the body is 140 cm around. Comforting, since my measurement of the shoulder offcut was 5 cm on each side and it shows my seam allowances are spot on.

The neck slit is reinfoced with an "arrow", as are the side-slits. In the larger version of the photo you can make out where the slits start. I think I could have taken them up a bit higher without any bad effects, but they're all stitched down neatly already. I may go over the seams with embroidery because it'd be pretty, but I am unsure of the exact stitch to use. As you might make out, the sleeves and neckline are left unfinished, waiting to be pleated to separate (embroidered) cuffs and collar.

I am strongly considering going with whitework embroidery. It is subtle, but pretty, and I can do blackwork on the inside of the collar (and possibly cuffs) as that will work to protect the linen a little bit from my body oils when worn.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
People have asked me how long it took me to do the embroidery on my shirt and I honestly don't know. What I do know is between what dates I worked on it because I blogged about it: Started May 29th - Finished July 2nd

So it was an active project for about a month. I've no idea how many of those days I was actively working on the embroidery or for how long at a time.
liadethornegge: (ego)
Six facts about me, since [livejournal.com profile] hleleanorsdress asked.

6 facts )
In other news, I've taken up my pleating for the collar-ruff for my shirt. I undid the few double box pleats, stitched a looooong, long drawn thread hemstitch on it, have done a running stitch to gather the length all into my collar. Then I pinned it to my ironing board and sprayed and ironed the pleats down below the gathering stitch. I'm now halfway done stitching it into the shirt collar. Only a few short moments away from actually being finished with my Sture shirt. Sweet.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I looked deeper into my bag of assorted linen things to refurbish, finish or mend. In that order they are:

Again, I get very wordy... )

At last

Sep. 27th, 2005 01:45 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
Finally, one ruff is stitched on at the cuff. At long last I've got ruffs on one sleeve on my shirt. I finally used the strip of linen folded once at the length that makes for single box pleats (3 x the cuff). It was damnably fiddly, and I realize I did not in fact, use enough of a seam allowance to make the process minimally fiddly. It would've been easier to have it done before having the cuffs mounted, but it's too late for that now :)

I'm not entirely sure I did the pleating right - I only did half a box pleat between each pin. Not sure if I was meant to do a whole one between each pin. But It was quite fiddly enough as it were now. I think it looks kind of cool myself. Looks right.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I was not as productive as I had hoped. Most importantly, I did not get done what I wanted to get done. I'd hoped that the collar on the ropa would be finished by the end of today. No such luck.

The collar evades me yet again, the oily bugger. I did attempt it, but after pressing the seam open on my two-part half-collars I realized I had about four milimetres of seam allowance everywhere and that is not exactly compatible with the reality of sewing.

So I folded the ropa away and picked up the shirt. Last I left it I had removed the cuffs and cut off about ten centimetres of the sleeves. This would make them long, but not ridiculously so, and also enable me to fix the inside-out pleating I ended up with on one sleeve before. I managed to pleat the sleeves into the cuffs and stitch it all up again neatly by quitting time. I still have to do ruffs on collar and cuffs, but I measured and discovered that the strips I have would have to be either lengthened by one third of the cuff-length for double box pleats, or shortened for single box pleats. It's annoying that it is only _just_ too short for double ones. I don't know if I can like, cheat and do singles at the edges and double box pleats in the middle or if that would look utterly stupid.

Also at circle was Bengt and his new girlfriend who got a complete demonstration of all layers of a late 16th Century outfit by [livejournal.com profile] helwig. She is interested in sewing and garb, and it is always useful to see and touch all the items instead of just getting to hear the 'terms' for them. I mean, I didn't know what a partlet, bumroll or farthingale was before I started sewing with Helwig. Fortunately, she has all her frequently used garb close to hand so she was able to pull out all items for a complete outfit to demonstrate on her dress dummy which layers to wear and in what order. I don't know whether this scared the girl away or inspired her. She at least got up and got up close to the dummy to touch all the layers and examine.

We talked a bit about demos generally as well - different goals for them, and what you could concievably do on a demo. I'm becoming more sceptical to next week's appearance now. We shall see what happens.

Finally, I address the collars of the world: Just you wait - I'm coming after you, and I will catch up eventually.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Front collar attached.What did I do then? Well, seeing as it was getting dark and chilly and we were all just sitting around the Aros tables in camp yammering on I figured I'd take out my shirt and see if I couldn't finish it somehow.

If anyone remembers I had actually started on the last step for a wearable shirt: pleating the neckline into the collar. Well, I started with the divide and conquer method using up many many pins. I looked at it and decided, bollocks to that. Pulling all the pins out I started over by running a gathering thread on the small turned hem I had done at the neckline. I didn't measure anything, but I used the approximate distance I had judged the pleats would have at the end of the divide and conquer method before I gave that up.

It worked.

After having found the one crucial point (centre back) and marking it with a pin I marked the three crucial points on the collar itself (centre back, and shoulder seam placement halfwway between CB and CF), pulled on my gathering thread and lined up my pins in the correct fashion. I did all this while it had gotten quite dark - I was hunkering up to the table and the lantern that was standing there.

Using the same method as for attaching a skirt I simply whipstitched the pleats into place along the collar until I made it all the way around. At that point I sat up straight and did a little victory dance on my chair. w00t for me! w00t for me!

Then I remembered I still had no means of closing the collar, so dug down into my pouch of sewing hardware to find the tangle of ties I had used previously on the false chemise sleeves of the Tudor working class gown. I attached one pair at either cuff and one pair at the collar and then I did another victory dance on my chair. W00t for me! W00t for me! Then I passed the shirt around so I could show off my work.

For future reference, if I ever start talking about doing the divide and conquer method on such wildly disparate measurements ever again hit me - hard. It's impossible and I should just go straight for the gathering stitches.

Also, I updated my diary to reflect these changes!
liadethornegge: (garb)
I created a picture page for the doublet bodice kirtle now that I have decent photos of me in it before and after splitting the skirt. After looks much better, and my shirt, which is otherwise quite finished, is in dire need of ruffs. It would also stand to lose a handspan or two of arm length which will enable me to correct the backwards pleating on one of the sleeves.

Argh!

Jul. 4th, 2005 12:04 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
I've cut out a piece of the sheeting material I used to make my corset to fit the inside of my blackworked collar. I also have the second piece which will be the inside of the collar already cut out from before.

What I don't have is the ruff, nor any idea how to put it all together in a logical, workeable, pretty and period manner. OK, I will settle for just workeable and pretty, but if it were logical I could figure it out, and if it were period I would be even more pleased. I just have no clue.

Helwig suggested somehow (I have no idea how) attaching the interlining inside the lines that my drawn thread hemstitch gives. Then attach the ruff on the interlining fabric somehow (I've no idea how) and then apply the inside lining cozy like all the way to the edge of the interlining. I know how to do this last bit, I mean, at that point I would have something to attach it to and all I would have to do would be fold in the edges and take small, hidden stitches and Bob's your uncle (wierd expression that). Of course, not forgetting the ties, have to attach those too - probably between interlining and lining, no problem there.

Hmm, maybe I should go down to the Cathedral and have another look at the shirts.

Also, looking closely at the collar with the interlining behind it, compared to another piece of the same linen I think I will need to put the linen first, then the interlinig and then line with more linen or risk having my embroidery looking all washed out and yellow. Yick.
liadethornegge: (Default)
We were only three people, not counting Johann in the background, and it was as enjoyable as ever.
Sometimes I feel I am too wordy.. )

Tadaa!

Jul. 2nd, 2005 01:22 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
It's finished. Embroidery is done, done, done!

Click on the image and you'll get the original res one to critique all of my sewing errors and point out all the places where the fastening of the thread could have been done a bit more neatly :)

I'm quite happy with it. Now to figure out exactly how to finish the collar off and mount it.
liadethornegge: (Default)
..nothing much new. I still have about half of the stars to fill in on the outlining border of my collar embroidery. I have however, stitched together the shirt, and felled all seams as well. I left the wrongly pleated sleeve as it was, couldn't be bothered ripping it out again. I have pinned a strip of linen over the shoulder seam, but have not actually stitched it into place. I'm considering skipping that step.

Once the collar embroidery is done I can line the collar piece with more white linen. I'm not sure if I want to add more layers to it or not, though. The original did have much coarser interlining inside the collar, as shown by some small holes in the outer layer, and more layers in there means it becomes a little stiffer, not so floppy. With the quality of linen I have, I think I could benefit from more stiffness inserted. I just don't know what to use for it, or if I should do it.

Once the collar is lined and ready to go, I can then pleat the neckline of the shirt to it. I also have to cut the slit in front of the shirt and finish that off neatly. Due to clever planning I don't have to hem the shirt as the lower edge is all selvedge. So, hurrah for me thinking ahead. It was also quite amazing to see the side seams line up perfectly on both sides.

Am still uninspired when it comes to the 15th C surcote. It'll be purple, and probably fabulous, but it is on a backburner. I am equally uninspired to try making a 16th C warm outer garment. I think I need [livejournal.com profile] helwig's Alcega workshop so I can get a better feel for it. Or just have her show me the different designs at next sewing circle. Don't know if I want to cut it out yet though. I did get the wool/poly mix for this purpose, in black, and I  want to wash it before starting the project, do a test-swatch first of course, but I haven't had reason to go down to the laundry room.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So, yesterday was sewing circle day. And I mean, literally, day. Starting at one in the afternoon I didn't come back to my room until a quarter to one this morning.

It was loads of fun as usual, and I was quite efficient. I got alot done. First I just worked on my blackwork, found my first stitching error that was too late to fix. Annoyance there, but it was only a minor error and won't be noticeable. I also jumped a row in the middle of a return journey and continued on the outside edge when I was meant to go on the inside. It wasn't until I hit the corner of the piece that I discovered that. Thankfully I could fix that by pulling the thread back out to the point where I went wrong.

After the second tea however, (yes, that's right, we had tea twice, with a different cake both times) I started working on the olive-green linen cotte (let's call it cotte, shall we). I managed to sew up both sleeve seams and the back seam in a backstitch using polyester thread. I will need to fell those seams as well of course, but I got quite a ways on it anyway. The back seam I managed to do while watching Henry V that Helwig had on tape. Nothing like a bit of Shakespeare to accompany sewing, although at the end I think myself and William were the only ones still sewing as both Helwig and Filippa had succumed to the ducks who came out en masse for cuddling.

When the sleeves were done Filippa commented to me that I was too chicken to do buttons again. Hmm... should I let that stand or should I rip the seam out and do buttons? I mean, it is true, I did not do buttons on the plum GFD, and the blue one has only short sleeves. Doing buttons on this cotte then would be yet another point of difference. I don't know, I don't know. Since I am not planning on lining this one (so far) I think having buttons will show this up a bit too readily. No lining makes the fabric a bit looser ("sladdrigare") and I'm not sure what buttons would do to a sleeve of that description.

Of course, this is also a supportive gown - do I really want to leave it unlined? Will it support me in that state? Of course, experimenting on the seams on this one will be much easier with the side-seams left just backstitched so I can alter them. Adding a lining would sort of hamper that, unless I flatline. But I already stitched up the CB seam now, so it's a bit late unless I want to unpick it all.

You know, using the poly thread was a bit of a resistance to starting on this project too. I took the dress up earlier in the evening, rifled through my threads and found only that to match. I considered using black silk thread, but cheapness set in and I much rather want my blackwork done than I need this cotte right now. So eventually I gave in and used the polyester thread, but it feels like half a step back in my quest for authenticity. I know it's stupid, but there it is. I actually thought to myself, ratonalising my decision, that I could do the felling using my black silk thread - as that won't use up quite so much of it.

Well, picture link to yesterday's sewing circle found here.
liadethornegge: (Default)
http://swein.campus.luth.se/gallery/16thCStureshirt

so I posted a couple more photos, plus a diagram of the pattern for the entire shirt.
liadethornegge: (Default)
All the fun you can have with Photoshop and some blackwork patterns that needs to fit in a certain space. I had the best time going through the patterns I have picking the ones I wanted, counting the threads of my collar piece (I counted by counting how many stitches are in my drawn hemstitch which takes up 4 threads per stitch) and finally recreating the piece on the computer.

chartIt took a bit of fiddling to get the blank right, but I did and I charted out my patterns and voila, here it is. Isn't it pretty? I did the entire pattern but I cropped the image down to half to put online, so the image only shows one half of the overall. The red lines were only guidelines that I drew in to find the middle and define my working area.

Edit: I will be doing the embroidery on white linen, quite sheer, with black silk thread. Each stitch will go over two threads of my ground and I'll be lining it on the inside once the embroidery is done.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Well, it's been decided, my next sewing project is a 16th Century shirt. I need one for underneath the doublet bodice kirtle and I will need one beneath the doublets I am planning on making. So, today at circle I started by ironing my linen and then pulling threads and cutting out the pieces I need. I decided not to go with a silly length of shirt, only 90 cm as opposed to 125 as the extant Sture shirt that I am copying has. A shirt 125 cm long reaches to my knees, which I thought was a bit excessive.

It might be a bit overboard to pull the threads I want to cut along, especially since this linen is very sheer and breaks when I try to pull the threads, but it is so satisfying to know that my cuts will be along the threads of the fabric. Thanks to this I did not get that much done at sewing circle before I had to head out, but I'm ok with that. I can do more tomorrow. As for tonight, my eyes are at half-mast and I am falling quickly asleep.

I meant to write about something else here... oh yes. Someone took the link to my DW pictures and posted them to scatoday.net - I feel all famous! :) It's utterly silly, but I do.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Well, I made a long post, being very witty and a little bit silly which was eaten by my LJ-client (Deepest Sender) since I asked it to do unnatural things. So, here I shall try to re-create that gem of an entry to make up for the abbreviated one of two days ago.

Right, the idea was, since on the spur of the moment I decided I needed to buy fine white linen, to start thinking about making up the shirt I will need to wear underneath my doublet. It is sort of a follow-along project that I didn't think about until I started with the doublet. However, a simple square-necked smock underneath a doublet leaves much too much skin in contact with that garment, so I must manufacture a shirt. A shirt is good not only for a doublet though, I can wear it with any 16th C garment I choose to make in the future.

Thinking about this, the linen I bought (asking for 2.5 metres to be extra sure I got enough and due to imperfections in the fabric coming home with nearly one metre extra) is quite fine and would be excellent to do blackwork on. I rather like the look of blackwork and it isn't really difficult to do; just takes time. That, plus looking at Jane Stockton's shirt and Bess Chilver's smock gives me such ideas and inspiration. Wouldn't it be splendid with an embroidered shirt? The collar blackworked, the wrists blackworked, possibly the yoke part and sleeves as well? I think it would look so grand!

I do foresee some problems with this however.
  1. I must think through my layout etc before cutting into the lovely linen.
  2. I must actually do the embroidery itself.
  3. I have never used this pattern before, which makes it a slightly risky project. So far I have always had ideas how to make the next iteration of a pattern better, I don't imagine a shirt being much different.
  4. Even if the pattern is just fantastic, I've never made an item like this before, so my construction might leave something to be desired. A practice run is never bad - but do I then really want to make the practice garment such a flashy piece with embroidery?
Yes, I see issues ahead. On the other hand, what if this turns out to be my only late period shirt and I don't do the blackwork? Well, I suppose adding it after the garment is made up is not an entirely ridiculous idea.

In any c ase, the linen, I have more than a metre extra, and I was very generous when I tried to figure out how much I would need just for the shirt. Alot of extra fine white linen from which I could make partlets and cauls or coifs which I might also embroider. A coif is a much smaller project than an entire shirt. Although, if I make the shirt plain except for collar and wrists that is not so much work as a coif. A beautifully embroidered partlet might also concievably be more work than the bare minimum for a shirt.

On another angle, I have a pair of full long sleeves in white linen all made up, with blackwork at the gathered cuff. The false chemise-sleeves that right now are attached inside my Tudor court gown. I could take those out, use those full sleeves, replace them with false poufs and a false cuff inside. That would cut down on weight and warmth of those sleeves, plus bother since I made those sleeves much too long for my arms. They are of course already embroidered at the cuff with a pretty but somewhat plain pattern. I could use those for a shirt and make new cuffs with prettier and more elaborate embroidery for the court gown.

I know [livejournal.com profile] frualeydis told me to go with an embroidered shirt so that one of the two of us will have that. Problem is I have projects coming out the wazoo right now :P Good thing is, I now have the material I need for it, so there would be no spending. Well, ok possibly another spool of black silk thread to embroider with. I just wonder how long it would take me to finish it. Granted, I am doing a test doublet before I do the "real thing" so to speak, but still.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So, after computer-time on campus I went downtown to the second hand shop. I found there just what I was looking for, a fake velvet skirt (65 SEK - 10%) to be transformed into the veil of my french hood. I was also looking for a white silk with which to cover my brim, but no luck there, so I just went across the street to the good fabric store. Or, depending on your point of view, the evil fabric store. The one that has all that wool. Lovely lovely wool. Soft drapey wool.  . .  Ahem, right.

To the fabric store I went (Tygcentrum) and I asked the woman to show me her silks in white. There wasn't any un-slubby white silk, but there was the off-white, cream-y coloured silk. I was not convinced (and the price had me gulping a little) but I noticed she had remnant bins underneath the rack of linens. Rummaging through them I found a cut of polyester that looks close enough to the silk, but in a white rather than cream. At 30 SEK I bought it at once.

I should have stopped there, I know, but, well, they had very nice white linen, just the kind I was looking for for my shirt. If I am making a doublet I will need a shirt. For making a shirt you need linen, white. So I did a little calculating in my head and arrived at two and a half metres with enough extra to last me a long time. I figured two metres was probably more than enough, but, well, it was lovely lovely linen. Soft bright white linen. . . Agem, right.

So I decided I needed 2.5 metres and she started unrolling the bolt. We then noticed quite a few flaws in the fabric, like the first thirty centimetres had some black slubs in it. Unrolling the entire bolt there were intermittend flaws throughout - marked at the edge as is usual on a bolt - and the clerk said she hadn't even noticed that before. Well, I was checking it with her and she started measuring from the front end, starting -after- those 30 centimetres of flawed fabric. Measuring out 2.5 metres she got to JUST before the next flaw started, and I said she could cut there but she wouldn't do that. Instead she extended the cut to beyond the flaw in the fabric meaning I got extra to start with, and extra at the end surrounding my two and a half metres of pristine white.

I'm no fool so I did not complain! So I got approximately 3.3 metres of fine white linen for 322 SEK which should have cost me 129 SEK per metre.

I'm happy. I have the material I need now.

Also I got what I thought was a lovely cut of wool made up into a skirt at the second hand shop: looking at it more closely at home I discovered it's not a skirt, it's culottes: you know, the long shorts that look like a skirt but is, in fact, two legs. I wore them to tea with friends this evening who protested my plans of slaughtering them for the fabric. I'm not a big fan of culottes though, so I think I will just ignore the protestations.

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Lia de Thornegge

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