liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
[personal profile] liadethornegge
Bah, I'm starting to think I wouldn't need to line my surcote.

On the downside to lining are: Makes it too heavy, the skirts don't need fleshing out. Makes it all too warm to be worn indoors. Looking at [ profile] millicent_c's surcote, I notice it isn't lined and it still flows beautifully.

On the upside: Linen catches a whole lot less than does wool for pulling the thing on and off, and my supportive gowns are either linen or wool. Makes for more durability.

I know research has said that lining from this period is not an absolute must, but it feels more like clothes to me if they're lined.

Yes, this is yet another crisis of faith in my original plan. I could just go ahead and continue assembling my pieces (last night I basted all pattern pieces of shell and lining together separately and started assembling the pieces into a gown). I could also just rip out the lining and use those pieces to make a fitted gown. Of course, I have two unsightly seams right around my belly button on both front and back panels. Alright then, so I can't just rip the pieces out and make a fitted gown out of it. I could still use the skirts to make a petticoat.

Or I could just push down on the throttle and forge on ahead with my perfectly adequate plan.

By the way, how are you liking my similes?


I'm just saying, that if I ever am cold in this well-lined surcote I will go completely mental.

Maybe I can get a hood out of the remnant after I've got my sleeves cut out. Right now I've got nothing to cover my upper chest. I could do a wimple, like Marie-Chantal has and be right comfortable. Must also make some headgear. I want the drapey thick sausage like ring on the head like in the pictures. I'm more confident I can create something like that than I am about the butterfly veiling or the horns.

In the link above, check out the second image under the heading "The Loop" That's about the exact shade of my surcote wool. Sweet.

Date: 2006-04-06 09:24 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
another thing against lining if it's a long floorlenght/trailing surcoat is that lining adsorb water from the wet ground to a very very annoying extent.

i ripped my linen lining of my dûrer gown during visby for that reason... i kept the lining of the bodice part down to my hips, and then just used a 5 cm strip of linen for lining the hem. made it much more comfortable and not so heavy...

i also think horns are quite easy to acheive with peices of heavily starched linen wrapped around the head and pinned down in place in the middle. never done it myself, but i remember seeing others do :)


Date: 2006-04-06 09:31 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
Absorbing wetness from the ground- Yes, true. I didn't think of that. It was most annoying to note that in my plum wool GFD walking home from the christmas feast in December. The wool wasn't wet almost at all, but the lining and my linen chemise were wet up to the knees.


I'm with myralea

Date: 2006-04-06 10:37 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
...line the gown to the hips, if it needs it, to protect the inside, add durability over the areas that face the most wear, and support the outer layer.

Leave the rest of the gown unlined, to reduce weight.

Also: do you have something like 'Scotchguard' in Sweden? It's the spray-on fabric protectant to help it resist stains. Where I come from, upholstery and car seats are often treated with Scotchguard in the factory.

One lady I knew swore by spraying Scotchguard on her hems and lower skirts, to help prevent permanent stains, aka 'Pennsic hem'.

If it's soaking wet out, it's not much help, but it does help for surface dirt and minor spills, once the gown is dry.

Re: I'm with myralea

Date: 2006-04-06 10:43 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
I'm not sure if we have Scotchguard the brand exactly, but I'm sure we have similar products. It might behoove me to look for those in stores. Wonder what kind of stores though, fabric shops? home decorating places? Shoe shops?

Re: I'm with myralea

Date: 2006-04-06 11:10 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
Ironmongers, general hardware stores and the like, usually. Shoes shops often carry it as well because it can be used on shoes.

Date: 2006-04-06 01:26 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
I never line to the floor. The only reason I can think of to do so would be to achieve a contrasting hem. If you don't need support, and you aren't looking for a pretty contrast anywhere, I say skip the lining. The only problem with that is then you need to finish your seams... ;-)

If you do line, consider changing out your lining and going all the way to the hips. Any seam above where the gown flares will generally leave an unsightly line.

I can't remember what your sleeve style is. Pendant? You could just line the sleeves.

Date: 2006-04-06 01:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile]
Well, the contrasting hem is featured in my inspirational images. So there is that. Of course, I am already cheating with that and going light blue rather than white as is shown.

You are right though - a line above the hips will show up on the outside and I do not want that. The wool I have is a bit on the stretchy side though, so I think I do want a lining in the upper body...

The sleeves will be "integral tippet" style closed to just above the elbow and then just the backside in a squared off hanging thingy.


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Lia de Thornegge

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