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[personal profile] liadethornegge
I have been very bad about posting on livejournal lately, but I have tried to keep my list of finished projects fairly up-to-date. The backdated post which I started early last year and dated to the 31st of december. I haven't added all scribal work to that list, but I'll try to do that soon. Tonight I will host the first scribal night of the year, and hope to continue with them regularly as well. I still think that seventeen items is a fairly good result for one year, even if none are finished items of clothing for myself, not counting accessories.

Hopefully, this year I will finish garments! I've started a new 16th Century base garment. A black velvet petticoat, which will fill the same niche as my red wool petticoat. At the first sewing circle of the year, this past Saturday (the 7th) I cut out the skirt panels using my standard petticoat skirt pattern which is based on Alcega. The bodice had to wait til I got home, because I'd brought the wrong pattern. At home on Sunday I cut out the bodice using the same pattern as my red petticoat, that pattern is one piece. There are no seams in the sides, and no seam in the back. Therefore it is a front-lacing bodice.
I like how I made the red petticoat with a sub-layer which has a little stiffening and the lacing holes and the top fabric is closed over the lacing using hooks and eyes. I will do pretty much the same thing with this black kirtle.

The bodice was cut as one piece in the velvet, then I dug out some unbleached linen and cut the interlining. I had to do that in two pieces because the linen was a remnant. I attached the interlining to the shell with herringbone stitch all around, including up the centre back where I only went through the shell at top and bottom. And then I turned my attention to the stiffening.

Since I want to be able to wear it as a single layer gown, it needs some stiffening and so I cut out two half-fronts in double layers of a gorgeous goose-eye linen twill (same as the lining for SvartulvR's Laurel-tunic) and stitched four channels; one at the front edge, then a gap, then two more parallell to that and one slanting from the edge of the shoulder strap to the front. I inserted the usual plastic zip ties that are ideal for boning and I'm currently working on eyelets on these two sides. I'm putting them one inch apart (11 per side). After I've done them I'll be looking at attaching them to the shell somehow. I am envisioning one slanted seam through interlining and shell and one straight up seam just outside the second boning channel. And on the outside I will cover these seams with some nice trim, maybe black satin tape. The idea is that it should be all black and details in different textures. And then I will have to decide what to use to line the bodice and skirt.
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Lia de Thornegge

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