liadethornegge: (Default)
Myself and Filippa set out half an hour earlier than usual when we have sewing circle to attend. We headed in to town and then right back out again for the outlet sale (Himla) where cheap linen of various qualities are to be found. Most qualities are of the upholstery, home decorating kind, but there are gems buried among those piles of fabric.

I came home with three metres of white linen, all in one, and Filippa came away with two metres in two cuts (I think that's what she ended up with anyway).

After our bargain-hunting we toddled off to sewing circle as per usual and I had help with pinning a toile for the surcote, determined where gores should start, how large to make the armscye and probably decided to finish each piece of my pattern separately and then join them together.

Then we had waffles. Lots and lots of waffles. Yum. So much waffles that the cookies we brought went untouched.

Then I took out my apron dress and finished it, complete with the shoulder straps that I did up last night. Hurrah for me! That little bit I let it out in the sides has helped, as there was a little room left over when I tried it on over my jeans. With just the white linen undertunic it should be splendid. Or, at least adequately Viking. This is definately an outfit I will not worry about abusing.

I would continue sewing tonight, but I am, inexplicably, utterly exhausted. I came home and as soon as I walked in the door it seemed all the air went out of me and I can barely keep my eyes open as I type this. I suppose I shall have to start translating my cotton toile to wool and linen for the surcote in the morning.

The linen I got at Himla I meant as lining in the surcote, but I might change my mind, use up the light blue I have already picked out from my stash, and make a smock out of this new linen. But before I can do anything with it I have to wash it. And before that, I need sleep.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
I went back to my GFD diary and added a link to [ profile] chargirlgenius's brilliant new demo on fitting one of these supportive gowns.

I also added a couple of paragraphs about the design concept of my surcote in that diary. As well as adding links to major inspiration and information sources.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
gallery :: A surcote for the GFD:
A comparison of cloth in daylightInspiration and fabric choices. I have the lilac wool, but I also have a deep blue wool. I'm of two minds what to do. I took pictures for comparison purposes, to see how the two choices looked against the dress fabric. I don't know. Will have to ponder further.
liadethornegge: (Default)
I've come to the conclusion that I want to be bringing my 14th/15th C wardrobe to Double Wars. For this to work I need warm items in this wardrobe. I have my hood, and I have plans for a surcote. I think that perhaps when my various mending and finishing jobs are done I need to be starting on that one. I have the wool for a surcote in my stash, I might even have linen enough to line it with. Basically what I intend is to make a surcote looking something like image #2 and #3 from here, or as Elizabeth's surcote in this image. Both fairly clearly shows the lining to be white, and the only sensible conclusion is that it's linen. And the shell fabric wool.

As for the pattern, well, I am less sure how to make it. I don't want buttons or laces down the front. I certainly don't want them down the back, I'm not convinced I want lacing in the side and I'm not sure how I can pull off a reasonably fitted profile without some sort of tightening mechanism. Other ladies have done it, obviously, but both [ profile] melaniesuzanne and[ profile] chargirlgenius, whose fantastic surcotes I have seen depicted, have a bit more in the bosom department than I do.

But it is definately firm plans for this weekend's sewing circle. I am bringing my plum wool GFD, with chemise and the pattern thereto. I intend to cut out a toile from the cotton sheeting I've got, and see if I can make a pattern that I can get into and out of without opening any seams. Then I need a layout plan to get a surcote out of 4 metres of lilac wool and then I shall probably need tea. :)

If I feel industrious, I might try doing a draping myself of a toile during the week. How best to construct such a garment though. Flatlining? How do deal with seam allowance, all to one side and topstitched for strength? I wonder if I have any suitably coloured thread for this project. I probably don't, but never mind.

Plans will be drawn up, patterns will be plotted, surcote shall be accomplished!
liadethornegge: (garb)
Seeing as how I was missing a layer or so of wool at Visby this year I have now, snug and warm at home, started pondering how to make my surcote for the 1410's where I am currently very lacking in wardrobe.

My thoughts go to high necks and large sleeves. I don't want to do ridiculous sleeves, however, and looking at pictures shows me that the surcotes with high necks are all made with a collar and a slit down the front (if not a completely open front) and they are all belted right beneath the bosom in the typical houpellande fashion. Now, I am not a big fan of the houpellande for myself. It's lots of fabric, it's ostentatious and it may be warm as Nosferatu's bedchamber, but I don't want it.

So the options I am seeing is basically depicted in this miniature - side by side. I would much rather go with the more form-fitting one, red in the previous link and the blue in this miniature. The sleeves there also appeal. They are long and extravagant but does not use up three square yards of fabric. I just need to lengthen the sleeves and open them up from slightly below the elbow. Sweet.

Problem with this type of dress is they show no closure. Well, I figure I could get this form-fitting line with closure in the back or under the arms, and I am really very tempted to go with hidden lacing under the arms. It's meant as an outer layer, which means I'll be wearing at least two layers underneath it, so any incidental gapping in the sides will not be indecent. It is also good in that I would not have to unlace the sides very much in order to get in and out of it. So I might leave a long lace fully laced in there, just loose, and then pull it tight to close the surcote. Fab! Which means this would also work as a quick pull-over dress to throw on in the mornings.

The fabric then. Well, I bought four metres of purple wool with this type of garment in mind, so I have that already. Ideally the overlong sleeves should be lined in white fur, but, really, get a grip, so white linen is good enough for there. I don't have enough white to line the entire thing in it, but I can do the sleeves, and the rest of the dress in whichever colour linen I do have - light blue maybe. Should I want to take this to the nth level and make it extra super-warm I can line it in the wool I bought yesterday, but the purple wool is fairly thick in itself and likely to be quite warm enough. Counting also the layers underneath it I don't think I can get too cold in it.

The low - compared to a houpellande - neckline and inevitable chill there can be helped with my ever faithful hood. It may be a slight anachronism, but [ profile] frualeydis tells us hoods were willed from males to females and the other way around so even if the style is most often seen on men I have no qualms about wearing it as a woman. Besides, it is warm and also the first garb-item I ever made.

Since this is a surcote and I would like some figure-hugging capability, but it really doesn't need to support me, it means I can probably get away with only slight shaping in the side seams. Make the front panels straight at CF. Maybe do it as a 2-panel gown, but that makes it awkward to add gores at CF/CB should I wish to do that - and I think I do. Common to all surcotes of this period is the silly amount of fabric in them, shown especially in quite full skirts. Full skirts are good for warmth. You can wrap your legs all up in all that wool and be cozy long into the night.


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Lia de Thornegge

April 2017

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