liadethornegge: (Default)
Sewing circle today. We all thought we were very efficient and got a lot done - until we looked at the clock and realized why this was the case, it showed a much later hour than our usual stopping time.

Helwig had started on two new Henrician coifs before myself and Filippa arrived, but once on site I got right into ... procrastinating for a bit.

Lia i nästan färdig coif.Then I cut and overcast two buttonholes on the gothic army dress, and did the proper buttonhole stitch on one of them. I took a couple of stitches on the second buttonhole, before I put it down for tea, and when we got back from that I dove into the deep end with a Henrician coif for myself. I'd brought linen for just this purpose, and I am nearly finished with the whole hat - just have to stitch down the lining of the "hatband" - the rectangular piece between the brim and the bag. There's a picture of me wearing it in its nearly finished state in the new gallery of pictures from today's meeting. I'll have to control my hair a bit better when I wear it properly - I'd only twisted it back into the bag for the posing. (There are also a couple of photos of me ironing and starching Antonio's finished shirt in there. I only starched the collar and cuffs to make them a little crisper. I'm not sure how to pack it to avoid creases... but I guess it's fairly inevitable some will form. Oh well.)


Look forward to a wedge formation of Aros Attack Mennonites at a Double Wars near you, as Filippa also took home a pattern for a Henrician coif of like description.

When Helwig asked what sort of media we should entertain ourselves with I lobbied for a Western with Clint Eastwood --- we popped in "A Fistful of Dollars". Aah, good times.


I did bring the doublet with me, but never even took it out of my bag. I did at least start on the buttonholes for the army-GFD. I also got a brain-storm: I probably need more than one chemise for my GFD wardrobe. I might do one this week.

Tomorrow, a bunch of us are heading to "Gamla Uppsala" where there's a mini-market and stuff celebrating Saint Erik and the group Patrask are giving a concert. I'm looking forward to it.

In one week, I'm going to be on site and lost in the Current Middle Ages. I can't wait.
liadethornegge: (garb)
[livejournal.com profile] hobbitomm's shirt. Late last night I stitched on the ties and finished the shirt. I feel rather good about it. I learned a thing or two, I produced an item of wearable clothing. (Well, hopefully it will fit him).

I had whip stitched the rest of the collar into the neckline before last night's Shire meeting, and at the meeting I stitched on the ties on the cuffs to keep them closed. It was a bit fiddly, to be honest, but I think they went on without too much of a fuss once I figured out how to stitch them in.

I ironed the shirt and put it on a hanger, and took a couple of shots: front and back.

W00t. Now I just have to leave it be until it's time to pack. Of course, I could also go back and add some embroidery over the seams, say, fleurs-de-lis as an element taken from Antonio's device.

Or just leave it be. I don't even know if fleurs would have been a viable thing to embroider over the seams.

Whee!

Mar. 19th, 2006 08:56 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
I am just about -><- this close to finishing [livejournal.com profile] hobbitomm's shirt. I've gathered the neckline to the finished collar and have two thirds of it whipstitched together.

Collar 2/3 of the way whipstitched to the neckline.

I also spent round about an hour doing a fingerloop braid from white embroidery cotton floss to use for ties. It's strong stuff, this particular fingerlooping, and you can cut it off at any point without having it unravel in either direction. I used the instructions Racaire posted on her most excellent blog. I also cut it down to size, and then realized that I needed twice the number of ties seeing as how I need one on either side of each opening. So instead of twisting it into a 2-ply braid I'll have to make do with it straight off. Won't be a problem though, and, after trying the 2-ply idea out, I think I prefer the singular version.

So, counting in time, this shirt has less than one hour left before it is all finished. Why do I stop now to take pictures and post to LJ? Because I can, obviously.

Unless I go crazy and do something for the seams.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Here it is then, gallery :: Antonio's Shirt :: collarruff1, the picture of today's progress on the shirt. Lot and lots of pins.
liadethornegge: (garb)
gallery :: Symöte 18 Mars, 2006:
I know what it looks like but I swear, Filippa and William were not the only ones at today's sewing circle. Myself and Helwig were also avid participants, even Duchess Vanna dropped by for a quick visit - and of course Johann was there in the background.

We watched a couple of costume movies: Star Wars Episodes IV and V. Much "Pyoo! Pyoo!" from the television :)

For myself, I brought too many projects (as usual) but worked on only the shirt. I cut out an interlining layer for the collar, folded and pressed the linen around this layer, and then proceeded to manufacture the ruff. Pleat after pleat after bloody pleat. Still, I finished the pleating while there, so it can't have taken all that long.
Now I just have to position it in the collar and stitch it closed around it, and attach collar to shirt. And add ties to collar and sleeves. This shirt project is going so much faster than I had thought. It is, in fact, so pleasant, that I am pondering offering to make a shirt for someone else. I am also having strange, wild!, mad!, ideas of offering to do blackwork for another person. I'm not exactly sure what has gotten into me. [livejournal.com profile] kfitzwarin are you sure your pelican claws are not extended?

Oh, yes, almost forgot, I also got to borrow two shoe patterns which I will copy to my own size and try out in wool. Probably only the one pair, but I took both patterns just for ... well, for fun's sake, let's say.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I went and created a gallery for [livejournal.com profile] hobbitomm's shirt, with the shots I've shown you all so far, plus a few more. I'm not likely to create a diary for this, seeing as how I've already got one for my shirt, but I can't stop myself taking pictures.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Nordmark Coronet Tourney should be over by now... and we ought to have a new Prince and Princess determined. I know coronation itself is going to be at a midnight court, outside, in the snow. But still no news. I admit it, I'm curious if we know the new pair locally, and how many couples entered the list.

In other news, I've been embroidering away today, in between updating my website. I've moved the details about wax tablets to its own page, as well as the embroidery to its own page. I've been working on expanding the text on the embroidery page mostly. Adding more information, research, links and pictures of my diverse blackwork projects.

With Antonio's collar embroidery I just reached the other side and am pondering how to do the turning over neatly. I'll mirror the first edge, but I'll probably not leave it with just this snowflake border. I'll most likely go back and add more elements. I'll have to finish it up with a return journey before I decide on what though. Having a half filled in pattern doesn't really tell you what the end product will be like, since it's the balance between black and white that makes the piece.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
collar_front1
So, this is the front, there's another shot of the back of the work there too.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Collar embroidery started
Yes, I am this anal about my embroidery. I pulled a thread where I will fold the linen and whip stitch the shirt to the collar and I did running stitch in the red at the top point where I will fold down a seam allowance. And I marked out the middle point so I would start an equal distance from either edge.
liadethornegge: (Default)
So the sleeve-issue. I dealt with it, finished one sleeve entirely, ready to be gathered to my lovely cuffs. Then I took a moment to think and check my measurements. Yeah, I'd planned on fixing the length of the sleeves "later". Tonight was "later".

So I basically cut off 15 cm off the end of both sleeves and redid the first one which is now ready to have its cuff attached. The other one  just wants the raw end rolled and stitched down, but I ran out of steam completely. I rolled and pinned it down, but now I don't want to stick myself in the finger with a needle one more time.

Still, I think the prognosis is: sleeves and cuffs will be completely finished by the end of the weekend, possibly before that. Then I have to get started on the blackworked collar - and finally lock-down on the design for it. I've got ideas floating around, but nothing solid as yet.

Now, I bid you good night.
liadethornegge: (Default)
I am a moron. Yet AGAIN I have forgotten that I need to leave an opening at the end of the sleeve seam so that [livejournal.com profile] hobittomm can get his hands through to the outside... Augh. I need to unpick that before I do a small rolled hem at the end of the sleeves so I can gather and whipstitch them to the cuffs. Yeah, I've got the second cuff all stitched up. It was not as annoying to pleat as the first. Maybe I can continue on my own shirt and get the ruffs finished.

Still haven't gone through my stores to find string suitable for ties.
liadethornegge: (garb)
An invitation to sewing and the olympics - one simply can't resist.

So I went over to [livejournal.com profile] helwig's place this afternoon for a nice relaxed sewing-and-sports get-together. I am very glad for the invitation as it meant I could balance out the soul-numbing task of pleating ruffs with the joy of seeing Sweden get a gold and bronze medal in the cross-country sprint, Sweden whomp Switzerland at hockey and Anja win her slalom gold. All-in-all: a good time was had by all.

I brought my wool but didn't cut into it, I just pulled it out and savoured looking at it, petting it occasionally. It's like making yourself wait for a very special treat, it really is.

By the time I was packing up to head home I had finished one cuff with the ruff pleated and attached. I now need to add the ties and then finish the sleeves so I can gather whip-stitch them to the cuffs. (And then embroider the collar and attach it). I'm not entirely sure what to use for ties - I'm not even sure I have any suitable white string at home. I will have to rifle through my stash. Now let's hope I can find something else as distracting for the other ruff.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So I've been starting on my new blackwork project. It will become a 16th Century shirt, with cuffs and collar embroidered. I did a first test of the pattern I chose on a piece of linen I had in my stash, decided that I didn't really want my eyeballs to bleed, so opted to embroider on the same linen I was constructing the shirt from.

The pattern is taken from a period sampler, namely Jane Bostocke's from 1598. Click on the cut below for the picture.

The picture comes here )

Edited to add the source.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Hurray! Second cuff done, embroidery wise. (Probably)

The probably comes in with the fact that from the start I meant to do two rows of this acorn on the cuffs - but I probably won't go on with that plan now.

I've also decided what to do with the cuffs. I'll finish the sleeves off and attach to the folded edge of the cuff to the gathered sleeves, on the outside edge I'll insert the small pleated ruffs between the two layers of linen. Sorted.

Now I need to decide what to do with the collar. I am very keen on the snowflake looking thing Gytha has on her sampler, but there's a huuuuge looong diagonal that is a bitch to do nicely. I might re-work it so it's a step-ladder based design and shrink the snowflakes somehow. We'll see how it goes.

Picture under here )
liadethornegge: (Default)
Finished blackwork on one of the two cuffs! It wasn't so difficult after all - only three repeats of the pattern.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Tonight I cut 5 cm off the top of the linen herjolfsnes dress. After unpicking the shoulder seam and ripping off the facing. I then stitched on a new facing slightly larger than before and re-did the shoulder seams using a flat fell seam. End result: about the same, the neck-hole is a teeny bit larger, but I still need to take my glassess off to get the damn thing over my head. I am calling it done in that department. I'm not touching the damn neckhole again!

I then also trimmed down the armscye, cut off about 4 cm on each side to make the body piece shaped, like the drawings of H39 shows. This means I now (again) only have the sleeves to sort out and the hem to turn up. I can fit two projects in my bad no problem so I'll bring the Gothic Army Dress and the linen herjolfsnes dress to tomorrows sewing circle and we'll see what I get up to. Re-make sleeves, or attach buttons and sew buttonholes.

I've also, while trying out my new comfy armchair, continued blackworking cuffs. I've gone ahead with the acorn motif I picked and might have come up with a good way to do the diagonals so it won't look retarded. Probably won't bring that for sewing circle though - put it in a separate little bag and bring it as Tuesday shire meeting handcraft instead.

And that's the state of things as I head to bed. Goodnight LiveJournal-land.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I meant to do an update on my progress on the first sewing circle of the term but forgot. Here it comes now.

I brought with me the brown test doublet and the shirt. On the shirt I started by dividing the strip of collar and cuffs into two, with collar separate and the cuffs still together, then I pulled a thread in the middle so that I can see which will be the outside and which the inside of the eventual cuffs.

Then I started embroidering, which is where it all went wrong. I don't think I like the acorns and leaves border now. It's an absolutely annoying pattern to get even and all the diagonals - ugh - it kills me. I didn't do very much of this though, and I haven't pulled it out - but I am strongly considering it, to go with another pattern instead. We shall see.

On the doublet I got a little more done. I attached the lacing strips finally, and could then try it on. Only problem was that while I was handling the doublet I heard a sharp *snap* sound coming from the cable tie that runs along the front closing. The curved front closing, requiring me to glue together two cable ties.

*sigh* The break is above my bust, so stability there is pretty much down to the cut rather than any stiffening agent, so technically I shouldn't need it there. Problem is that now I've got a loose bit of cable tie flopping inside the channel on the interlining fabric. I'm unsure if it will stay where it is (because the channels were a bit tight) or if it will slide down and cause problems. At the very least the snapped ends should be fairly sharp and might start poking out. Grrr.

Also, trying the doublet on with the lacing and the hooks and eyes I was not quite as happy as I had been :( The back still looks snazzy, but the front ... not so much. Gapping and wierd angles and yuck. I am going off the concept entirely. I was, and am, very grateful that this is in fact a test project. I now know a few more of the pitfalls than I did going in. I just don't know how to fix them. I don't know if I want to be making a velvet doublet any time soon.

More palatable to me right now is working on the former viking tunic which has turned into a Herjolfsnes tunic. I cut it out and discovered I made it much much too wide at the hem to fit under a fairly close-fitting viking apron dress. I was given the alternative of looking at the Herjolfsnes dresses and found that #39 fits the bill. The only difference then is that I need to swap around the orientation of the first pair of side-gores compared to my diagram, but that's an easy alteration. I've even started pinning pieces together - starting with cutting up a slit in the centre of the front and back panels and pinning the triangular gores in there. I was so enraptured by this task that I nearly missed an appointment yesterday! In any case, I shall bring this project with me on Saturday, when the first regular sewing circle starts, last week's was extra, and use [livejournal.com profile] helwig's handy neckhole guide thingy to cut out the neck on the dress. I might have enough to do a facing even. I might also be so mad as to embroider on this one. But I've said that before and it's never happened, so let's not get our hopes up, eh.

And that's all she wrote for now.
liadethornegge: (garb)
W00t - so today I finished what I can finish on the shirt before I need collars and cuffs. I finished a small hem and I did another tiny hem for around the neckline. Not until I'd finished the entire round of the neckline did I realize that I had forgotten the slit down the front so [livejournal.com profile] hobittomm can get into and out of the shirt. I pulled a thread and cut down along it and rolled aside another narrow hem.

Now the only raw edge on the body of the shirt is at the sleeve-cuff end. I don't know if I want to finish that too or incorporate it into the cuff. I shall have to see what the fabric tells me once I get my hot little hands on it again.

Actually, on second thought there is a few more things I can do to the shirt at this point. Number one being the straight grain strip along the shoulder seam to prevent stretching there. Number two would be any additional blackworking not on collar and cuffs. Aha! It shall be done, yes, I think it will... possibly. /The typist was here removed to ramble on pointlessly to herself/

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