liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Did a write-up of the gothic army dress. Not very much, but a lil bit of text anyway.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Here we are, a lovely slideshow of today's little excursion, courtesy of flickr. The walk took 90 minutes at a leisurely pace. Viscount Bengt started out walking with us, but returned to bring the car around to meet us at our destination, so the pilgrims were: Myself, Viscountess Helwig Ulfsdotter, Viscount Sir Johann Berndt, Lord Frithiof Sigvardsson Skägge, Lady Gro Torstensdotter (and their son Simon), Lady Elisabeth Carlsdotter and Hedvig.

The day was fantastic, the walk refreshing, the picnic delightful and the company enjoyable. All in all, a fabulous idea.

Maybe this is what we ought to be doing for our Spring let-out every year. Walk from the Cathedral to the burial mounds, have lunch and then a tourney. Make a day of it. What a splendid idea. If I had thought of it sooner I would have asked the fighters to hold their practice out at Old Uppsala instead of the usual place - as it was I only thought that that might work on the bike on the way into town this morning which is a mite late.

gothicarmydress2I might also mentionthat I wore the gothic army dress, and got photos taken of me in it. Tadaa...

I was supremely comfortable in it, despite the buttonholes not being completely finished. I had overcast them all with silk thread (I did that at last sewing circle if you recall) so the holes were there and functional. I was a little short on time this morning, because I did my hair up proper, so I was unable to get the buttons on one sleeve closed by myself. I am sure I looked a right sight on my bike with the veil flapping, my skirt pulled up between my legs and hooked into the front of my belt and one sleeve only buttoned at the wrist so the chemise showed :) I did get a few curious looks, but not a lot of people were out and about at 9.30 on this Sunday morning.

The dress is the perfect length and delightfully cool in the sun. I could have stood to make it a bit tighter, for more anti-gravity powers, but, eh, whatever, it works. It was also more comfortable to leave the last three buttons on the sleeves undone, as I have - again - managed to get my sleeves a little too long.
liadethornegge: (aros)
Armed with the information sent out by our local Marshal myself and [livejournal.com profile] helwig thought it would be a good idea to go watch our fighters get sweaty in the sun today.

We brought a blanket, a project and ourselves and sat down to watch the weekly fighter practice in the Aros park. Present were Jarl Peregrin, Viscount Bengt, Lady Elisabeth, Hedvig and Magnus (no known SCA name). It was quite a nice day for it, with just enough wind to make the splendid summer sun not feel too hot - at least for spectating in shorts and a tanktop. The ones in armour were still hot as hell :)

I brought my Gothic Army Dress in the hopes that I might get some buttonholes done. Hah! I managed one. Buttonholes are boring. But my plan was to wear this dress for our local pilgrimage next weekend.

We're walking from Uppsala Cathedral along St Erik's route out to Old Uppsala and the mounds. Once there, we shall sit down and partake of the picnic we will have brought with us. It'll be a warm day, no doubt, and I want to be comfortable, so my plan was to wear linen.

I think it would also be nifty keen if I could make a linen hood to for cover-up purpose rather than warmth which is what I use my big black wool one for. Of course, if I just make a wimple that will take care of that. I'm not sure I want to be wearing a veil or anything for the walk though - I might just braid my hair and pin it up in the classic dangly loop infront of the ears. Of course I will be doing this to myself, early in the morning, so I might just wimp out on that idea. We shall see.

As for transportation -- I was thinking of taking the bus in in the morning, and then taking the bus home from Old Uppsala once we're done there. Certainly not going to walk both ways.
liadethornegge: (aros)
So to start with I gathered myself and some stuff up to pop on over to Filippa's place to teach her the ways of the LJ. Hopefully she will now get hooked and start using it as an online dress diary - Muahahaha! *ahem*

Secondly, we then hopped on down to the Aros park where the fighters were gathered for some sweating in the sun. And it was warm, very warm today. I set down my blanket and myself and Filippa got comfortable and started doing some little bits of sewing. Myself on the evil buttonholes on the gothic army dress, Filippa doing some drawn thread hemstitch on an apron. We stayed for a couple of hours to watch and chat a bit before heading back home.

If we get a hold of their schedule - or if they make one - that's a cool opportunity for socializing with local scadians during the summer. If they share their schedule I'll go when I can. If the weather's nice. Maybe a pair of gloves is a portable enough project to work on at those occasions :)
liadethornegge: (Default)
Sewing circle today. We all thought we were very efficient and got a lot done - until we looked at the clock and realized why this was the case, it showed a much later hour than our usual stopping time.

Helwig had started on two new Henrician coifs before myself and Filippa arrived, but once on site I got right into ... procrastinating for a bit.

Lia i nästan färdig coif.Then I cut and overcast two buttonholes on the gothic army dress, and did the proper buttonhole stitch on one of them. I took a couple of stitches on the second buttonhole, before I put it down for tea, and when we got back from that I dove into the deep end with a Henrician coif for myself. I'd brought linen for just this purpose, and I am nearly finished with the whole hat - just have to stitch down the lining of the "hatband" - the rectangular piece between the brim and the bag. There's a picture of me wearing it in its nearly finished state in the new gallery of pictures from today's meeting. I'll have to control my hair a bit better when I wear it properly - I'd only twisted it back into the bag for the posing. (There are also a couple of photos of me ironing and starching Antonio's finished shirt in there. I only starched the collar and cuffs to make them a little crisper. I'm not sure how to pack it to avoid creases... but I guess it's fairly inevitable some will form. Oh well.)


Look forward to a wedge formation of Aros Attack Mennonites at a Double Wars near you, as Filippa also took home a pattern for a Henrician coif of like description.

When Helwig asked what sort of media we should entertain ourselves with I lobbied for a Western with Clint Eastwood --- we popped in "A Fistful of Dollars". Aah, good times.


I did bring the doublet with me, but never even took it out of my bag. I did at least start on the buttonholes for the army-GFD. I also got a brain-storm: I probably need more than one chemise for my GFD wardrobe. I might do one this week.

Tomorrow, a bunch of us are heading to "Gamla Uppsala" where there's a mini-market and stuff celebrating Saint Erik and the group Patrask are giving a concert. I'm looking forward to it.

In one week, I'm going to be on site and lost in the Current Middle Ages. I can't wait.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Double wars is coming up fairly quickly now, and I feel I ought to look over my list of projects that I said were due for DW this year. So, let's review the list from 9/4-06.

On that list three items were finished, leaving the following:
  1. Wool hose
  2. Gothic Army Dress Sleeves
  3. Brown Test Doublet
  4. Shoes
  5. 1410 Surcote
How am I doing? Words, words, lots of words )

In other news, I started on the 6th of the Drachenwald needlecases today at the Tuesday meeting. My detached buttonhole stitch is looking very nice. The outline of my pine trees continue to look like the drunken scribbles of a blind parkinson's patient. But it's all hand made! (*eyeroll* & *sigh*)
liadethornegge: (ego)
Family news: So I've got tickets north for Easter weekend. I plan on sewing, possibly doing some woodwork (a pair of pattens would be awesome), and plenty of walks out in the fresh air.

Surcote: I've basically decided to rip out the lining on the surcote - punishment for basting it all in no doubt - and replacing it with nothing at all. The wool is much more likely to be pliable without a linen layer to stiffen it up. If needed I will go back in and add a lining by slipstitching it in place if I feel the bodice needs it. Without the linen I stand a decent chance of being able to wriggle into the surcote. No eyelets and lacing would be good.

The open sleeves will need lining. I'm not sacrificing the look there.

The lining I shall rip out will go toward a petticoat and scraps I think. I am at least glad I did not butcher the lovely white linen I got at Himla the other weekend. Sewing in wool alone will be a treat. Going through both wool and linen when I basted the layers was a little bit of a struggle to be truthful.

Gothic Army Dress
: I've finished 14 eyelets. Two more to go on the first sleeve, then I get to do it all over again on the second sleeve. *sigh* At least the closer I get to the cuff the neater I manage to make the buttonholes. They're not by any stretch of the imagination pretty, but at least they are not utter disasters any longer.

Possible New Project: For the moment I'm glancing at my new cut of white linen with a 15th Century chemise in mind. The one I have is nice to be sure, I just re-finished all the seams and it is only one season old, but the sleeves were not my brightest idea on it. They are tight sleeves, so I can't really roll them up and out of the way if I need them to. I shouldn't have made them to the same pattern as the supportive gown, but I figured I wanted minimal amounts of fabric in my sleeves so that's what I did. With this lovely fresh white linen I can make a new chemise, one with a split BACK panel as opposed to the FRONT and with un-tapered sleeves. This would also mean I'd have two chemises to change out between which is a good thing. Would be a good thing for double wars even. I must do an update on my list of projects. Look for that in the next posting :)
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Today I bought a pretty silvery heart shaped pendant to be used as a pomander. V pretty.

I also stitched on the other 16 buttons on the gothic army dress, and did four buttonholes. Oh, the agony. Also, they look like they were made by a blind parkinson's patient. Still, I'm getting them done little by little, and they are useable as buttonholes. That's all that's important. 32 buttons was a piece of cake to crank out. 32 buttonholes, however, is not quite so easy.

Tomorrow? Probably more sewing. I'm not sure what kind, though I rather like the idea that I might finish this dress sooner rather than later. If we're not doing giftbasket stuff for the Principality I'll continue with the gothic army project. Once the buttonholes are done I'll be entirely finished with it, possibly except for a little bit of topstitching here and there.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
It continued this evening. I brought my gothic army dress over to Filippa's where we popped Pirates of the Carribean in the DVD and tried to be useful.

I managed to stitch on 16 buttons on the left sleeve of the gothic army dress, leaving another 16 buttons for the other sleeve. They ended up being placed quite close together. There's nearly no room between my misshapen buttons. Looks spiff. I did cloth ones, filled only with themselves, and I took a few stitched through them to make them flat as well. They look less spiff when closely inspected, but bother that.

I stitched them on, not at the edge, but somewhat back from it, so that the edge of my buttons are level with the edge of the sleeve. I'm trying to gauge how far from the edge I will have to make my buttonholes as yet, but my first attempt was too far from it and too large a hole. Good thing I started at the top of the sleeve so that my mistake will be more easily overlooked once I fix it. Picture here.

After stitching on the buttons - a relatively quick job - I did the one buttonhole and promptly got sick of the whole thing so I turned to a pair of wool slippers that I cut out and ran together on the machine a couple of weeks ago. I turned them inside out again and re-stitched the seam by hand, making sure not to leave any gaps this time, and with the added benefit of using up some of the seam allowance I had failed to use up on the machine seam. I think that with a simple leather sole whipstitched to the bottom I'll have myself a lovely pair of 14th-15th century slippers for indoor use. Pictures here, here and here.

Also, I was corrected, Filippa bought 3 metres of white linen at Himla, one cut of 2 metres and the other at just 1 metre. Not 2 in total then, as I mistakenly rememberd last Saturday :)
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
I brought the linen Herjolfsnes and the gothic army dress to sewing circle today. Starting with the gothic army I shortened the sleeves by approximately three centimetres and refinished the ends. I also placed pins along the sleeve openings every 1.5 cm thinking to put buttons there, but by that point I got bored so switched to the herjolfsnes dress.

I stitched up the sleeves of the Herjolfsnes dress into cones and felled the seams, then I cut a 10 cm slit in each sleevehead and cut out triangular gussets to go in those slits. When I've done that I can finally attach the sleeves to the body and hem the thing and I'll be done with it. It's not a time-consuming job, but getting the little gussets in nicely will be a bit of a fiddle. Unfortunately I had to grab my stuff and run to catch a bus so didn't get further than cutting them out.

I'll probably continue sewing tomorrow - maybe even get to finish the Herjolfsnes tunic. At which point I can pick up any of the other projects on my list. Or feel entitled in starting a new one. Maybe continue on the viking outfit that was derailed; fix up the apron dress to wearable status and see about a kirtle.



We talked a little bit about the standard of our sewing circle, and pretty much right away hit upon that we're not at the standard level for the SCA. Nearly everything we do is fromprimary or good secondary sources. Hand made, proper materials and methods etc. Nearly everything. The standard for SCA is not kept this high - we're not at an average level. With this in mind it's not hard to imagine that we can scare newbies away.

At the same time, we are aware of our level, and always try to tell new people who come that it is absolutely OK to use the sewing machine to make your garb. Especially if you are new - it's not really going to help if you are new and spend months and months making your first garb only to realize at the end that that wasn't the period you wanted to go with. Or never even finishing it. It is much better to start by make simple garb on the machine and spend a little time looking at what other people are wearing and researching the periods that catch your interest. Then, when you know where you want to land, you can take your time with it. Then it's time to think about possibly stepping up the standards.

Personally I love it that I joined a group where the standard is this good. It's a challenge for me, and I learn alot. I still feel like a newbie a lot of the times. Plus, at the sewing circle today we had a strawberry/chocolate mousse cake and a chocolate cake with our tea - yummy, yum yum. Something to consider also is look at the standard of each project. Is it meant to be a reproduction from a single source, a creative endeavor from a standard look, or utilitarian garb for hard work. You tailor your methods, materials and standards to fit each differently.

That's why I say I'm putting a little too much effort into my blue linen herjolfsnes dress. These dresses were not made from linen, and me spending the extra time doing it by hand is not going to make it any more authentic than the already glaring anachronism. On the other hand, I enjoy the handsewing, and pulling out the machine and trying to convince it to work with me is nothing but an exercise in frustration. In the end, I will get a perfectly functional piece of garb that I can throw on for those 5 a.m. biffie runs.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Tonight I cut 5 cm off the top of the linen herjolfsnes dress. After unpicking the shoulder seam and ripping off the facing. I then stitched on a new facing slightly larger than before and re-did the shoulder seams using a flat fell seam. End result: about the same, the neck-hole is a teeny bit larger, but I still need to take my glassess off to get the damn thing over my head. I am calling it done in that department. I'm not touching the damn neckhole again!

I then also trimmed down the armscye, cut off about 4 cm on each side to make the body piece shaped, like the drawings of H39 shows. This means I now (again) only have the sleeves to sort out and the hem to turn up. I can fit two projects in my bad no problem so I'll bring the Gothic Army Dress and the linen herjolfsnes dress to tomorrows sewing circle and we'll see what I get up to. Re-make sleeves, or attach buttons and sew buttonholes.

I've also, while trying out my new comfy armchair, continued blackworking cuffs. I've gone ahead with the acorn motif I picked and might have come up with a good way to do the diagonals so it won't look retarded. Probably won't bring that for sewing circle though - put it in a separate little bag and bring it as Tuesday shire meeting handcraft instead.

And that's the state of things as I head to bed. Goodnight LiveJournal-land.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
32 Buttons for the Gothic Army Dress My buttons, cleverly kept in a blue plastic mug which reduces the risk of loosing one. Alongside them is the silk sewing thread I used to stitch them up. Now all that remains is to attach the damn things to the sleeves. Which requires me shortening the sleeves first, and then making the appropriate number of buttonholes. *groan* I'm keeping that as a task for the sewing circle on Saturday.


A List of Current Open Projects:
  • New scroll, to be finished March 3rd. Not technically started yet.
  • The Linen Herjolfsnes tunic, wants a re-do of neckline (probably), sleeves done and hemming. Finished for DW?
  • [livejournal.com profile] hobbitomm's shirt wants blackwork, collar and cuffs and ruffs attached. And ties. Due to be finished for Double Wars (May 19th).
  • Test doublet. Do something about the snapped cable tie, do shoulder treatment. Embellishments? Probably not. Due date... whenever I get to it.
  • Viking Apron Dress needs the shoulder straps and hemming. Finished for DW?
  • My own Sture shirt needs the collar ruff pleated and done. I want this done ASAP just to get the damn thing off my project list and into the wardrobe.
  • My sewn wool hose. One down, one to go.
  • The *%&#¤!!* French Hood. Seriously just need to put that together and get it done. It's still in pieces on the spare bed. Wants the crescent stitched to the coif brim and billiments added. Maybe done for Winter Games?
  • The Fore-sleeves for the Tudor court gown. I have one about ready to be stitched back onto the gown, the other just needs the false silk puffs stitched down. ASAP.  Possibly due at Winter Games.
  • Obviously, the Gothic Army Dress needs the sleeves taken care of. Due for DW.
That might be it. Well, aside from other project ideas that are swimming at the front of my mind, such as a trapezoidal pouch, a woolen cutwork tudor kirtle, a curcote for my 15th C stuff, a short 16th C cape, thick sewn woolen hose, little leather pouches, a girdle-book binding.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
I've been asked by the Nordmark signet to do another new scroll. The persona is viking, but I am pondering going with the reason for the award for inspiration since there's a bit of a discrepancy there. But in case I don't, I did a bit of surfing, and just wanted to make sure I keep this link to the Viking Answer Lady close by for future use. Due date is the Winter Games/Coronet Tourney event so I'd better get it started soon.



I also finished the last button, making it 32 buttons finished in approximately three hours, rounding down. I wasn't counting exactly and I took a few breaks. The buttonholes will take longer.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Pictures of me at the University from Uma's picture archives: showing the gothic army dress on me, from behind.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
32 little green linen circles cut out. I am hoping this will do for buttoning the gothic army dress' sleeves. And if they turn out the wrong size, well, they just won't and that's that! I was able to use my little thing of lip balm as the template - it was the same size as the template I drew around at the class on Saturday! Huzzah. Still experiencing the lack of weariness. Let's hope I can get to sleep at a decent hour.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
  1. Taste of chocolate cake, ice cream and coffee lingering on your palate.
  2. Beethoven's Ode to Joy on the loudspeakers.
  3. Laced into a sleek, sexy, linen 1410 gown.
  4. Looking at fantastically inspiring rennaisance portraits.
The only thing missing now is the snow on the ground outside my window. It's all rained away unfortunately.

And on I ramble... )
liadethornegge: (Default)
I have not written about the progress on the ropa since after Crown, so I thought I would do that today. Last time I updated about this project was just after crown to say that I did not quite finish it in time. Well, I had marked off the hem length accurately and at the event I spent some of Friday evening sitting next to my goods for sale, in the good light, and basted the overly long seam allowance in place. It looked fairly horrid, but since I didn't wear it at all that didn't matter.

The following weekend we had sewing circle so I brought the neverending project with me and there cut off the excess and folded up a double-fold hem and stitched it into place on the shell wool. Sewing in this wool is no task at all and it went swimmingly.

However, when I had the ropa laid out on the floor to cut off excess I noticed that my lining did not match the shell in circumference at the hemline. That bothered me a bit since that means I could not do both in one fell swoop. So I did only the shell there and cut off the extra length in the lining and that is now just awaiting inspiration to run a zig-zag on the raw edge and a straight stitch on a seam allowance on the machine and the ropa will be all done. (Minus any decoration, braids, etc I might decide to add at a later date).

Pictures? No, no pictures. It's just a big black robe with vividly green sleeve linings. Besides  you've seen the old pictures already, right? Right.

I think that once I have worn the ropa to an event and have had a good pictures taken with me in it I will update my site with a post-mortem diary of the making of it. It is quite a different thing to do a dress diary while you sew as opposed to typing it up after the garment is done. I'll see what I think about the experience and perhaps do a re-design of the current state of my site.



Another progress report is due on the gothic army dress. Instead of regular Tuesday shire meeting this past week, myself and Princess Filippa had a tea-and-sewing get-together at my place. We had tea, gossiped as usual, and I managed to hem the gothic army dress which means that all that is left to do on that project is buttons and buttonholes on the lower sleeves. Sitting with that dress in my lap I fell in love, all over again, with working in linen. It is so responsive, so smooth, so lovely.

*ahem*

Anyway, the 'all natural' theme continues with that dress, as I have used only linen or silk thread to sew it up all by hand, the hem I did in silk since it doesn't really need to be any thicker than the fabric itself, also silk thread of an appropriate colour is much better at hiding than my thick black linen or thin white linen threads. Should I want to I can now wear that dress as is and simply roll up the lower sleeves to disguise the fact that buttons and buttonholes are missing. Of course, I have plenty of time until the next event I want to attend, so if I decide to do buttons there is plenty of time to do that last bit as well.

As far as the embroidery question goes, (if you remember I had pondered adding embroidery around the neckline of this dress) it has pretty much been dropped. I haven't thought about it at all, and I've no idea what I could do to beautify the dress. Speaking periodically (pun intended) there is no evidence what-so-ever of embroidery on such a prominent place on frocks from around 1410, so it wouldn't be authentic, but still a fun and pretty idea.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Well, it took a few days, but I have now gotten the pictures taken at last Saturday's sewing circle uploaded to the usual place. There is even, finally, evidence that I have in fact been working on a green linen gothc fitted dress.

Just ignore my stupid look and lack of posture, please, and if you'd completely disregard the t-shirt I've got on underneath it that'd be swell. Thanks. Also, the laces are temporary - I don't intend on using a whte lace with this dress in the end.

Fairly obvious is that I need to still do buttonholes and buttons on the sleeves. I've chugged along on the eyelets though, so I only have five left to do. I think what I'll do once it's finished is lace it on and lounge around in it for a bit. I am pretty much unhindered in my movements in the plum wool GFD, but I think this one might be a bit tighter, and I want to see what the buttoning on the sleeves will do.

Speaking of the buttons, I'm still not sure what to do about them exactly. Make cloth ones out of linen or buy some period looking metal buttons? I've looked though, and I can't find any reasonably small and cheap buttons in my local shops. Guess I'll go with fabric buttons in the end. It's ok though - I kind of liked making buttons. I just have to measure them out so I'll know how many to make. After I dig out the scraps of green linen, wherever I put them.

ETA: I added one more picture to the album linked above.
liadethornegge: (Default)
This Saturday's circle was quite well visited, seven people altogether, and we had a lovely selection of cakes for our tea. I brought both the ropa and the gothic army dress to work on, and I finished felling all seam allowances of the collar. I also tried on the gothic army dress after stitching up the front seam from the end of the lacing down to the hem. I only did 44 lacing holes on the gothic army dress, as opposed to the 52 I did on the plum wool gown. I only stitched around the holes with silk sewing thread to keep them open, and did proper buttonhole stitch on two or three while at sewing circle.

Trying the gothic army dress on it looked good, fitting slightly tighter than the plum wool gown. Of course, I've worn that one a few times, and the green linen has never been worn really.

When I got home from circle I finished eighteen or so of the eyelets on the gothic army dress, and today I finished off the ropa collar with the lining. I went over to help Filippa fit her new red monster (she's making a the Princess Elisabeth portrait which should be finished or Crown tourney). The black silk is so luscious to look at - making the acetate look very poor in comparison. But it won't be seen when I wear the ropa, so it won't matter.

I tried to do the stitching neatly, and it worked well I think.

Left to do on the two projects is for the ropa: The front closing and hem. Gothic Army Dress: Finish oversewing the eyelet with buttonhole stitch and finish the hem.

I've done no work on any other projects at all lately. I tried to think about what to do for a blackworked partlet, but was distracted by other things.

I might be posting pictures a bit later, if I can get a hold of the photos taken by Isabel, who came to the sewing circle on Saturday.

Bad Omens?

Sep. 15th, 2005 10:58 am
liadethornegge: (ego)
Today hasn't started out very well. First, when I was almost awake, but not quite I was dreaming I was making popcorn, and the sound of the first one popping - in my dream - scared me awake.

And then just now I dropped my hand-held mirror (made by me in wood-shop in 8th grade or so) and broke it. Seven years of bad luck. I suppose it's a good thing I dropped it straight into my sink, so no splinters of glass flew into me and drew blood, but still.

Bugger. Maybe it'd be a good idea to just crawl back into bed today. Which is a shame because I went to bed last night feeling quite accomplished, having gotten quite a ways on the gothic army dress.

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