liadethornegge: (website)
More updates on my webpage, the Florentine gown has had it's baragoni done for quite a while now. But since it was never quite finished I never quite worked up the energy to update the webpage. Still, on the site now are three new photos and some text about the sleeve heads and how I made them. Enjoy.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Hello LJ-land, my name is Lia and I've started a project. The camicia to go with my green Florentine gown.

It is inspired in full by the latest Janet Arnold book to be published: Patterns of Fashion 4.

This is the design spec... )

And as the photos indicate, I've gotten quite a ways on the embroidery, as well as cutting out each pattern piece from the very fine hemp that Medeltidsmode sells to addi... eh paying customers.

The stand-alone twigs (bottom left) are only applied to the sleeves and underarm gussets, and the stripe (bottom right) goes only down the body of the camicia itself. I've started with a single stripe down the centre, and if I can find more embroidery floss in the same colour, will expand on that after the event.
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Five thirty - is that any time to be getting up on a Saturday?

I say no! But nobody listened to me, and so I am up. *sigh*

Today is sewing circle. I am bringing my blue linen kirtle to possibly lend out. And my embroidery to display progress and maybe start on assembly. Maybe I'll throw in my bag of blackworks as well.

Tomorrow is scribal day, and I may have a new assignment for Double Wars - depends if I hear back from the Nordmark Signet who wrote me asking if I'm willing to take on an assignment. I may be, if it is "just" an AoA where I don't have to think about the text or what odd features to include in the illumination.

The interlude in the frozen north is, as can be surmised from the above, over. My cousin is safely married off, and the next generation is sprouting feet big enough that I could borrow a pair of winter boots.

Now I guess I can't dawdle any more, time for breakfast.

Also, random note of joy: Squee!
liadethornegge: (garb)
Sewing circle yesterday. I arrived first, but was soon joined by Iseut, Sarah and Elise. Then Anna without her daughters, William and Bengt also came.

Quite a lovely gang, and a very lovely time spent.

To get technical, I picked apart the armscye finish of my green Florentine gown and inserted the baragoni (cap sleeves) between the layers and closed it up again. I also re-installed the strip of satin tape stitched down at intervals to which I can tie the paned long sleeves in place.

I also took the strip of paille pouffs off the paned sleeves. That bit is always covered up by the baragoni when worn, so is a waste of bling. I'm going to re-use the silk inside the baragoni though, and that is my next task for the gown. I'm going to create a bit of linen stuffing and attach the silk, and pull it through the panes of the baragoni and that will be that. Then I'm going to attach silvery points to satin tape with which I can tie the long paned sleeves on for a little bit of added bling.

So much for my projects, I also helped Helwig with fitting her Anna Meyer dress, as she has reached the stage of monting the silk shell onto interlining. I carefully pinned a strip of fabric around the neckline so she has a fairly good idea how long that piece of embroidery needs to be.

I also commented on the bodice, when it was laid out on the floor, that it looked exactly like doll's clothing. Or possibly a jacket for a five-year-old. Helwig is tiny.

And then, I also helped Iseut re-fit a proto-Tudor gown. She made it long ago and now wants it to look more like what it is supposed to be. I drew on a new neckline for her, and myself and Helwig advised on what to change to make it more accurate.

I also advised William how to continue with the blackwork piece he started at my class at Glötagillet. Not that he needed much advising, he showed me what he was thinking and I said "Go for it!".

I didn't get back home until half past midnight.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
I hosted scribal night today. Good thing about people coming round your place? The place gets picked up and cleaned a little. I'd be ashamed for people to see my place on a "normal" day :P

Anyway, four people here, including me. One non-participant in scribal, but he was useful on his own sewing projects. Ulv, stitched up a second iteration of glove and it seemed to work perfectly. His wife, Ingirun, got to drool all over my books. She's already a fantastic artist, so to start creating scrolls she just needs to adopt the "right" styles and she'll be off and running. I'm excited to see what she will end up producing.

For myself I worked on the not-finished QOoC. I'm still at the gold-laying stage. Building up layers. It will be gorgeous once done, but as always at this stage it looks a long way off.
----
Yesterday I also embroidered one corner of the underarm gusset of my new project. Wow, that was a complicated structure. Let's start over. On Sunday, after finishing the linens I started at Saturday's sewing circle, I pulled out the very fine hemp and cut out an Italian smock, or camicia, to go with my green Florentine gown. I am basing it on Arnold, Patterns of Fashion 4 p111, pattern #71. It takes two full-width panels for body, front and back, half-width panels for sleeves, two shoulder bits and large underarm gussets.

Each piece is finished off separately and whipstitched together, this is good for me, because the embroidery thread I mean to use on this is not yet tested. I want to use the indigo dyed silk I bought from Felicitas ([livejournal.com profile] bippimalin), but having tried it before it left a residue on the fabric. I washed the hanks in the sink and rinced it thoroughly and let it dry, then I stitched one of the gusset repeats. So far it does not seem to leave a residue, but my plan was to put the gusset in the washing machine and see how it holds up. That's the smallest piece in the garment and I have plenty of hemp left over should the experiment fail. This particular thread is lovely to work with, as I learned making my apron.

If the home dyed silk won't work, I have a back-up plan: Helwig brought me a gift from the states last summer, a couple of hanks of silk embroidery thread in a dark blue, almost black. It was always meant to go into a "blueworked" chemise of some kind, possibly a perugia cloth.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Yes, I have been working on projects as well, lately. It's just that they're sort of semi-secret projects, nothing for myself. So, can't really talk about them.

I am still at a loss as to where I have hidden the baragoni sleeves for my Florentine gown. Other than those, however, the green Florentine dream is finished. It's hemmed, it's got sleeves, it's wearable. I think I might try bringing it for the next Aros Microevent and have someone take my picture. I just need the camicia. Counting that, I've got three shirt-like objects that I mean to make. One for me, two for others.

Just call me Lia the shirtmaker.

A tweak

Aug. 26th, 2008 03:27 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
I couldn't live with myself knowing I had been too lazy with my Florentine dress diary.

So I went back, edited it, added citations from Moda a Firenze and generally spruced it up with a few more pictures and links. Maybe I'll even get inspired enough to do some sewing next!
liadethornegge: (garb)
Yay! I finished the website update, and I feel all proud. The Green Florentine Dream now has an official dress diary up.

I just need to finish the hem and the gown itself will be finished. I also have the option of finishing the cap sleeves for extra bling on the gown.

Next thing on my internet update list is a page for the A.S. 50 A&S challenge. I've got to start a list or I won't even know how many things I've done. This involves going back in my archives here on LJ, and website updates. I'm still not sure how specific I want to make my challenge, Breadth or Depth.

ETA: I also updated my persona page, with my latest award, as well as a new heading of "Other Achievements" where I list classes taught and competitions entered and judged. It seemed fitting it should go there.

Good grief

Aug. 25th, 2008 05:56 pm
liadethornegge: (website)
I've been a very bad girl.

First of all, the waistcoat has been finished since right after Double Wars, and yet my clothing page has seen no updates. Secondly, the green Florentine gown is nearly complete and I have not made up a dress diary page for it in all this time. There has been storming progress on that while I was working on it actively, and I started working in earnest in January.

Bad Lia, no cookie.

However, I've done something about item the first - and that is to update the dress diary with the final information and taking a photo for demonstration purposes. The clothing page is also updated showing that the waistcoat is finished.

Item the second - I think I will get to grips with that next.
liadethornegge: (research)
I am still not sure where exactly my box of interlining materials is. If I did I would be working on the bodice for my new kirtle at this moment. Although, truthfully, I could be stitching up the skirt as well. I'm not, however, sure I have any thread.

I could go with either white linen, or I do it with silk thread. However, I'm of old not a fan of blatantly showing white linen thread in my stuff just for the sake of it looking hand made. But I have no red silk sewing thread either.

Finish my big green Florentine gown? Well, sure, in theory I could do that, but I really want a sewing machine to do the hem there. It does not deserve hand work at this stage.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Important clothing update: Green Florentine Gown is still unfinished and un-worn. Maybe for Visby.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Stuff has been pulled out ready to be packed.

I'm considering going all 16th Century all the time. I have lots of dresses, whee! I'm also warmest in my late period wardrobe, and forecast says rain, rain, clouds and rain. *shudder*

The 15th Century gowns can be warm too, but mostly it's the wool hoods and woolen stockings that do that. Packing two periods means packing two sets of under- and headwear as well.

On the Florentine Front:
Skirt ready to be pleated to bodice.
Skirt needs hemming.
Sleeves need wristbands.
Sleeves need attachment points.
Bodice needs attachment points for sleeves.

ETA: All clothes packed. Scribal stuff pulled out, feast gear pulled out, basket pulled out, Florentine gown all over my room like a giant green explosion.
liadethornegge: (garb)
All my plans for Florentine sleeves are changed.

New, slimmer look. I think it'll be fab.
liadethornegge: (woe)
Augh! I'm trying to build my paned sleeve caps and my brain can't wrap around the construction. It's all too much! Too complicated! How the hell am I supposed to put them together? Lining, interlining, silk filling and panes all at once? How? This is madness!??

And in the middle I'm interrupted by a phone call for a forgotten arrangement. I can't find my tools, the lighting is wierd, my music is all stashed away in boxes and unavailable and I am out of tea.

And I still haven't written my bloody lecture! Argh! Why did I subject myself to these stresses? I don't really have to finish the green Florentine, but it would be awesome. But the weather forecast says cloudy or even rain on Saturday at the site. But I could be fabulous in a green florentine gown underneath my fabulous black ropa. How awesome would that be? It would be off the scale of awesome to the stratosphere of awesome. I want to be awesome. But I don't want to have to stress. What if I do it all wrong and it comes to shit in the end? Huh? What then?

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH!
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
Woulda, coulda, shoulda... )

LJ and the internet, bring me: Vicarious creativity.
------------------------
Yesterday was Aros Micro Event Saturday. I came directly from the Aged Aunt, met up with HE Helwig outside the train station, went for lunch at the nearby sushi place and then headed to the meeting. We talked about the newbie event we're having on May 31st, and also talked about putting in a bid for Kingdom University in the fall. I'm not quite sure if anyone was delegated any responsibility to act on anything from this meeting. Or, rather, if I was delegated to do anything. We'll see what happens. I'm sure I'll be putting up notes around town.

After the meeting, we continued with our crafts, Anna, our newest member, brought her father and his partner, along with the kids who were keen to continue carving their spoons. I worked on the paned sleeves for my Green Florentine Gown. I've finished topstitching around all eight panels now, and I pinned the wider velvet tape in the middle of two of them after catching them together into a sleeve at roughly equal intervals. I'll start with that and see how far it goes.

The dinner consisted of mounchelet and frumenty, topped off with strawberye, all for the low-low price of 25 SEK. You can't beat that. I felt rather out of place and wierd not having brought a change of clothes. But at least I got to borrow a bowl and spoon from UlfR so I did not have to suffer the indignity of eating off modern china.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I woke up leisurely, had a leisurely breakfast with lots and lots of tea, then Her Excellency Helwig called me up and announced that she was ready for an invasion. So around twelve noon I arrived at sewing central and we had a cup of coffee, and then started working on our projects.

I brought my Florentine gown, no surprise there, and proceeded to cut out the front panel and replaced it with a new front almost twice as wide. What I did was cut the skirt straight down from where the side seam was left open at the top. This meant a rectangular panel was cut out, and I could replace it with a new panel of the remaining fabric. I had to turn the fabric 90 degrees and cut a panel 90 cm wide and the width (140 cm) long. The top I'll trim once I measure it out against the bodice. The centre front will be flat, and has to be adapted to the dip in the bodice anyway, but now I have enough fabric to get a few pleats in the front panel before the side-back lacing.

Once I got the new front in place (by machine) and the seams felled (by hand) I turned my attention to the sleeves. I cut out two sleeve-tops in green linen, this will be the lining. On top of that will be a white linen interlining, then a layer of silk paille for poffs, and lastly the strips of shell/lining edged with narrow velvet tape arched over to form the baragoni, or sleeve caps.

I had the sleeve assembly all pinned down and ready to go when I realised that I had not yet applied the velvet tape to the edges of the strips, so I had to take them all apart again.

I also accomplished a new four panel sleeve pattern, and pinned it to the remaining scraps of fabric. I  will have to be quite careful when cutting the full sleeve panels out, as they will not have very much seam allowance. I did manage to lay out the four panels on the remaining fabric, although I wasn't brave enough to cut it out just yet. I want to accomplish the tops of the sleeves before I potentially destroy what's left of my fabric. If I don't get a pair of full sleeves in the same material that's fine, they were often contrasting anyway, as long as the baragoni are there.

Also, Helwig totally has a zimarra. It just needs some sprucing up; Hungarian style frogs, silvery buttons and trim applied and it'll live up to its fabulousness potential.
liadethornegge: (research)
What's this nonsense about some sort of strike? Good grief - this isn't a commune. I shall post something just out of spite.

Am now about half way through -reading- Moda a Firenze. I know, I know, but before I only leafed through to look at all the fabulous portraits in there. Now, I am actually reading it, footnotes, references and all, and getting a much better appreciation of the continuity and the changes. It also inspired me to have a good rummage through the Web Gallery of Art. I like that place so very much, it is a gold-mine.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So, this problem with my skirt being too narrow in front to fit my bodice...

... what if I cut out a new front panel for the skirt out of the remaining fabric? I may not have sufficient length though. However, if I can get away with turning the panel of fabric sideways I will have enough. I think. Maybe. Possibly.

I know I could get a pair of sleeves out of the front panel that is in the skirt right now. I also have the same amount of lining fabric as shell brocade, so if it were possible to make a new front panel from the remaining brocade it is also possible to line it properly.

Of course, doing that would mean unpicking the side seam of the skirt, and I was quite careful to get it done nicely the first time. *sigh* I could cheat and finish off the front panel's sides and then whipstitch it to the back panel, possibly. It's just that the more I think about it the bigger the problem becomes in my mind. I think it's fairly clear that the Florentine fashion of the time had the skirt panel pleated around the entire waistline, not just in back, and it is quite clear that I have nowhere near enough skirt at the waistline for the front to be pleated to the bodice.

Stupid, stupid mistake. Maybe if I make the front as a rectangular panel? Would that work? *sigh* I can't brain anymore, I have the dumb. I've no room on my floor to test-lay the panel either - boxes and stuff in the way - I guess this will all have to wait until after I move. *sigh*

In more cheerful news - I bought two widths of dark green velvet ribbon to decorate the bodice and sleeve panels with. It will be subtly luscious, oh yes it will.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I don't know, maybe 1984 by George Orwell is not the best audiobook to listen to in my current mood. Anyway, it's what I have, and I have made splendid progress on topstitching my upper sleeve panes - they are all done, all 22 of them, and ready for assembly. Only problem now is I'm not sure exactly how to assemble them.

I was careless one night when putting stuff away and lost one strip of my pattern, so if I want to replicate this sleeve in future I have to take a few extra steps, but it should be doable. Currently, all the strips, save the two at either end, which will end up at the armpit, are extended about an inch beyond the base pattern so that I will be able to puff them out with clever and devious methods*. The base is already cut out once in white linen. My plan was to attach the strips over the white linen so the base is light, stuff the strips with silk paille for effect, and then attach that to the bodice, leaving the underarm bit open. Then a full length 3- or 4-paned sleeve could be laced into the bodice somehow. Somehow...


* Totally making that up, I've no idea what to do for that, either.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Defined as: topstitching around 2 x 11 strips of shell and lining, stitched and turned baglining style, eventually to become the puffed/striped/slashed top of a pair of Florentine sleeves.

Somebody talk some sense into me?

On the other hand, the end result will be so much better for the effort.

Still, this is boring! And I don't even have any good books-on-tape at hand.

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liadethornegge: (Default)
Lia de Thornegge

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