liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
So I went to sewing circle last Saturday and Helwig was working on some lovely tablet weaving from a new book. For some reason I seem to be able to see the patterns, and understand what is happeing and going wrong, so I helped her disentangle and wove a little bit. Which let me remember that I actually kind of like the actual tablet weaving experience.

I have done it before, once. I warped a brown and white cotton yarm which I wove into a "belt", for the bliaut I was making in 2004 (I think it was). The actual weaving was lovely and went fast. The warping was icky. Ever since I have wanted to make a silk girdle using turn-based patterns to weave something lovely that just shows up in the shading.

So I made up three patterns for turn-based letters for the three words of my motto: "facio, disco, gaudeo" using Guntram's Tablet Weaving Thingy. He had a gorgeous alphabet already made up, but it takes 40 tablets and I only have 39 tablets at present. Which meant I couldn't add edges. So, the patterns I made up consists of 20 tablets, plus two on either side as an edge.

The warping I did utilising a doorhandle and an over-the-door hanger which I could run between. I warped the 20 pattern tablets in black wool, and the four (2 + 2) edge tablets I warped in green wool. Today I threaded the tablets in and started the weaving using a black linen as my weft. I think I started my pattern a little too soon, before the tension had worked itself out and I'd gotten the braid a uniform width. However, that won't be too bad, as the shade differentiation between black wool leaning to the left and black wool leaning to the right is not very visible.

I've got one letter left to do on the first word (which is gaudeo, as they weave from right to left), and I am enjoying it as I remembered. However, the working position isn't the best. and I'm not entirely sure what I can make with the length I warped. It might become a belt. We'll see.

Also I measured out all the string for the other project I will be working on this weekend - which is edge-weaving on a red open chaperone, as seen on many ladies in ca 1400 illustrations. Not currently sure I want to do that with tablets or the lovely rigid heddle I got last year. I measured out enough yarn to fill eight tablets in any case, so I can make the call on Saturday.
liadethornegge: (vapen)
So, since I listed three perfectly reasonable projects I have on the slate in my last post I started a completely different one today.

I had time to start a new sewing project and my fingers were itching to do it - once I realized that, I pulled out my fabric stash and examined it. I noticed the cut of a yummy green wool twill, the same as my lord Edricus also bought, which I got a meter and a half of for a jacket to match. I pulled out a lovely black linen which is a very fine quality for the lining, and a coarser purple linen for interlining for the fronts as I want it to be a bit smoother than I've had it be previously.

I cut out the jacket, minus sleeves, in the wool, interlining and lining, and I officially have a sewing project to work on - whee!

I'm also registered for the Shire of Gyllengran's yearly A&S event Glötagillet, which is always nice and cozy. The theme there this year is finishing touches, and I'm planning on doing edge-weaving on the almost finished hood that has been almost finished for two years. Maybe it will finally get finished and I can start using it.
liadethornegge: (Default)
At sewing circle on Saturday I finished a project! I think it has been in-progress for a handful of years. It's a simple caul, made from the first one which is the only one that has fit me properly since I made it. But the first one has visible selvedge in the band. Not very attractive. Anyway, I found it in a bag, forgotten, and pleated the crown to the band and topstitched all around the band to finish it neatly. I've even got a picture of it:

Pictures

Sep. 15th, 2011 07:56 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
I've updated my finished-list with picture of my red knitted cap, and my new cotton/linen shirt. The images are in my picasa-album of 16th Century accessories
liadethornegge: (Default)
At the Aros Fencing Camp I started knitting a flat cap according to Mistress Helwig's instructions. I finished it in the last week, and the only thing missing was the felting, or fulling rather. I made one in red using six whole skeins of the yarn and it turned out rather large.

Yesterday I went over to Helwig's place to sew and hang out, and she had the right detergent to do machine fulling so we threw the red flat cap into the washing machine on 60 degrees. When it came out it was still rather larger than needful and not as fulled as I wanted it, so we returned it to the machine and it went through again and after the second cycle it came out pretty nice!

I ironed it, and then we put it on a marble-top table underneath six volumes of an encyclopedia to make it nice and even.

My very kind Laurel also finished for me a knitted flat cap in a grey tone which wishes it was black (as per my request) and threw that in the machine as well. It only needed to be washed once to achieve an even higher degree of fulling than did the red one. Our theory is that the black yarn was much less treated than the red. The dyeing process probably battered the former a bit more, and the dark grey may well be a natural color, so took less effort to full.

I ironed that one as well, and added that to the stack out on the marble-top table.

So I went to a craft day with one almost finished flat cap and came away with two entirely finished ones!

I also finished the shirt for Lord Edricus, and got a few stitches nearer on finishing my own cotton/linen blend summer shirt. *sigh* But it was so boring I nearly died, despite having True Blood to watch.
liadethornegge: (Default)
This August has been a bit busy, event wise. Starting with ten days in Visby, continued with five days at Raglan, and finally a day-trip visit to the Aros Historical Fencing camp.

At the last event, I started a knitted flat cap, with instructions and yarn from Mistress Helwig. She taught a workshop on her version of the knitted headwear of the 16th Century with myself and Druda as students. I chose the red yarn (Drops Alaska) for mine, and today, after having bought TWO extra skeins to make a total of six, I finally finished it.

It's a big circle, with an attached brim, made by starting from the centre going out to make the top, then decreasing to make a brim inward, then out to the maximum diameter and back in again to fold together to make the actual brim.

I stitched together the last two layers at the inside with the same yarn to make a solid double-layered brim. It is fairly heavy, right now, and I still have to felt it. Either in the machine, or by hand. We'll see how that goes.

But now on to another shirt. I am finally making one for Lord Edricus, who has great need of one. I bought some very fine natural linen at the market in Visby which I've finally cut out now. I think it'll be nice once it's done :)

I've also got a few projects going right now of a scribal nature. I'm re-making the Dragon's Tear scroll I made for Double Wars because it was truly not fit to be handed out. It is also for Edricus. The new version will be much better.

I've also started on a blank scroll for a Principality A&S award. I thought it was going to be for a commission for Crown, but when I got the name the style didn't match, so it's a blank to be finished at leisure, and I've already gotten going on the real commission scroll for Their Highnesses court at Crown Tourney.

Those three, plus of course the unfinished Laurel scroll for Helwig, and a commission for His Highness SvartulvR which I may have to start over on as well, are current projects. These are all good reasons for me continuing with regular scribal nights at my place :)
liadethornegge: (Default)
Aah, Double Wars. My favourite event in the Whole Knowne World!

The trip there went smoother than expected after we discovered we'd be ten scadians on the same train to Hässleholm. We managed the 3D-tetris that is luggage racks after some head-scratching.

Going by train from Aros was me, Mistress Helwig, Anna Nilsson with daughters Tove and Arina, Lady Alvhilde with two sons, Lord Styrbrjörn Bärsärk and Lady Ragnhild Leifsdotter. We're not the people with the smallest amount of luggage.

Anyway, the train ride was nice and relaxing, and I managed to snooze while I shared headphones with Helwig: we were listening to an audio book.

At Hässleholm Anna and Alvhilde had arranged the rent of a people-carrier. It had seats for nine, we were eight, and there was plenty of space even for our epic pile of luggage.

Notable happenings at Double Wars: Filippa could finally accept a green belt from Mistress Helwig. Stigot got a red belt from Sir Brendan. Magnus got awarded the White Portal. Meisterinne Katheryn Hebenstreitz, OP, was elevated to the Order of the Laurel. Viscount Arngrim Biornsson changed his name to Armand d'Alsace and was knighted. Master Måns Knutsson Kotte was also knighted - from the King's privy chamber (tent) as the King was injured and could not get up to court.  Several lovely people got Panaches, Genevieve and Robert each got a permanent heraldic title, and so much more I can't remember it all.

Other things: I finished and delivered four napkins, and sundry for Mistress Katheryn's Laurel vigil and she was mighty pleased. See image below and following images in the album.
From Giftbasket

I finished and handed over the V&A reproduction coif-set to Viscountess Filippa. The one with silver thread embroidery. I also entered it in the A&S competition and won Queen and Princess' choice. I also assembled it fully. Although it needs to be half dis-assembled again for the lining to be put in. I left that step for Filippa to do herself. We tried it on her head briefly. See image below and following images in the album.
From Embroidery

I'm still working on editing the photos I took at the event. Soo many. I will keep you posted.

Fun stuff

Nov. 5th, 2009 12:20 am
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
I've started on another coif/forehead cloth set. It's going to be all over embroidered in red, but I am running out of thread. It is thoroughly annoying! I've sent out a feeler asking if a certain retailer can supply me with more. I'm hoping to finish it by christmas.

I want to do another two sets of coif/forehead cloth eventually. Maybe it sounds a bit boring to do four sets all in red, but the red I am using is so gorgeous I can hardly get enough. (Besides, it's more colourful than black blackwork.) I may deviate a bit from this plan, I've been known to do that.

I am trying to find out a little more about forehead cloths right now. I know the dimensions, but I am unsure how to orient them on the fabric. I think the one I'm working on now is laid out the wrong way. The front straight edge is on grain. I think, now, that it would probably be better on the bias. Why didn't I think of that to begin with? Well, this time, it was because I didn't really have enough fabric to do it any other way around. I will try to find out how extant forehead cloths are oriented.

Sadly I have no new projects going just yet, but on Friday my fabulous apprentice sister is coming to town for sewing circle and I'm going to start cutting out a black kirtle with front placard.
liadethornegge: (research)
Check this out, headwear in particular: http://kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1500/AnneBretagneConfession.html
and this: http://kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1500/AnneBrittanyEpstl5D1.html

Then compare and contrast with this: http://kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1480/HeloiseIPWmn1.html
and this: http://kimiko1.com/research-16th/TudorWomen/1490/JoannaCastileD1.html

and finally an open liripipe hood a la 15th C. Then extrapolate forward into French Hoods - am I alone in seeing this? Because I think that looks pretty interesting.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Item: one yardcloth, hemstitched all around. Pretty thing :)
liadethornegge: (garb)
Lovely photos of me in my tall hat now has its own little gallery - check it out. Of course, Edricus has taken all the good photos. I'll be doing a quick write-up of how I made the hat later in the week to post to my website.

Waistcoat updates gets to wait a bit longer.
liadethornegge: (garb)
The sewing circle yesterday was well-attended, with the new Anna with her two daughters (aged nine and ten) and also Viscount William there in addition to myself, Viscountess Helwig and Sir Johann. Sir Johann did not partake of any sewing, but he could have!

Anyway, I worked away at my lovely new project - a tall hat. Oh how I babble on )
liadethornegge: (garb)
Check out the photo of me in profile in the EFG. Note the pleating in back. What do experts say; should or could I add a bumroll to this?

Also, what do you say about the headwear on my inspiration, the Nonesuch Palace lady #5? Is it linen? Is it all part of the caul? How many parts are there to it? I think it could be possibly one, possibly two. The caul (stiffened front edge) with a little bag, and a veil of some sort ontop that is folded forward over the head, attached to the caul or not, same material (linen) or different. I do believe it is her hair that is visible forward of the caul edge that parts the head in half. Please advise! :)

Also, I put myself on a set of scales over at [livejournal.com profile] helwig's place (I don't own any myself) and I'm at 69 kg. Apparently, 70 kg is some sort of magic line and below that my lovely fitted gowns don't fit me right. I don't usually fluctuate much in weight, and above this magic line there are places for flesh to move around to such that fit isn't really affected badly. I'm starting to think about moving seams on my gowns, seeing about leaving a gap at side-laced openings, because ill-fitting dresses are likely to depress me. But frogging* is about the worst thing ever to have to do, especially on my painstakingly hand-stitched seams.

Honestly, loosing weight (something I never actively tried to do) is horrible for my medieval fashion vanity, even if I like the look of < 70 kg on the scales.

* Yes, I know it's a knitting term, but I like it and intend to use it for sewing, so there!
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Red wool hood finished (22 Jan)
Tada. I got up in my get-up and got off some photos. And here I am in my new red hood that looks spiffy and shiny. Haven't tried to attach it to any white linen headcloth as yet. On account of not having a headcloth that would suit. There's one shot of me from the front and back as well as this profile photo. And another one of the length of the liripipe at the back.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Red wool hood in the making. Inspiration struck. I started from the hood pattern I got from Helwig, then I modified it based on Marie Chantal's Burgundian hood, and came up with something like this. The fabric is folded over on itself in the front for some self-lining.

Still unsure if I want to piece together a liripipe or cut it off, which is why I left it in there. It's easier to cut off than to add on, after all.

Now I just have to sew it together using white linen. I've no silk thread of even a remotely similar colour, so I'll go with white waxed linen.

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Lia de Thornegge

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