Gaah..

May. 8th, 2006 09:31 pm
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
That has got to be The Most Boring Dress Ever (I am the one in the blue dress on the right. Aska to the left is wearing a quite lovely dress). I promise never to wear it when I have the chance to wear something else. I will say it was easy to get into and out of, and I don't care even a little how dirty it gets. Practical in the kitchen, but good grief.

Photo taken by Elin Helsings ([livejournal.com profile] tantelin)
-------

Also, I stitched in the first of my surcote's sleevelinings. Right sides together I just did a backstitch all around the opening. I'm going to turn the lining inside, fold a little bit in on itself and stitch it down around the armscye, hopefully covering the seam joining sleeve to body. Then I'll probably want to topstitch around the opening. Probably in white linen thread, catching only a little bit of the shell wool so it won't be seen from the outside.

---

*edited for updated picture link
liadethornegge: (garb)
I have not yet spread out the wool on the bed to roll around in it, nor have I put scissors to it. I have, however, finished the linen Herjolfsness dress entirely.

The hemming I did yesterday, and today I cut down the sleeves and hemmed those to the right length - approximately - as the pictures on I. Marc Carlsson's homepage shows. It was a quick job, stitching around the biceps is not a long seam. I tried the whole thing on after that was done, and I gotta say, much easier to pull over my head with the new enlarged neckhole. I might go back and add a couple of eyelets on either side of that one, and some ties, but for now I'm calling it done, done, done.

You get no pictures, because it's basically a boring piece of utilitarian garb that doesn't look very pretty. It needs more accessories to make it really interesting - like, say, a pouch. I also need a chemise for this one - though I suppose I can get away with one of the ones I have already in a pinch. I wish I had found some good linen in Tallinn for this.

Still, I've not touched the cape-wool yet. Hurray for my strong will, though another discussion over at the Armour Archive is whittling away at the resistance to making some kind of carrying pouch.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So I finally did rework the neckline of the linen herjolfsnes dress to open it up enough to pull it over my head.

Look below for a picture of me wearing it (inside-out). Now all that is left to do is cut off the sleeves to the right length, as I have hemmed the dress itself tonight, in between watching Sweden beat the US at hockey.

lh39_neck
liadethornegge: (garb)
gallery :: Symöte 18 Februari 2006:
Today we had a sewing circle again. The last one for a while, as next weekend is an event weekend.
Myself, I worked on getting the sleeves stitched onto the linen herjolfsnes dress. I did one entirely felled, the other one just stitched on and pinned the seam allowances down. Then I got tired of it all and started sketching on how to cut out the cape from my lovely, lovely Tallinn-wool. I'll line it in a very thin black/charcoal wool which I have in the stash. I was also, finally, shown the image of the Swedish queen wearing a cape such as what I'll be making. Nice it was too.

Other people worked on other things; embroidery, corset, houpellande and supportive kirtle amongst them.

There were ducks. I'm fairly certain that mine is a male and his name then, is Ozzy. He'd like to be called Ozzy in any case, because he thinks he's tough while actually his parents named him Steve, and he's still a very young duck.

In other news - my cough (nearly typoed that to couch) is nearly all gone! w00t!
liadethornegge: (scribe)
No longer am I curled up in a little ball wearing all my clothes and wrapped in a blanket. I am now feeling more human, more clear-headed, though my voice is nearly gone. The cold and accompanying fever has backed off a step or two and just left me with eyeballs that hurt if I try to swivel them to the sides, a diaphragm that is sore from dry-coughing and a nose stuffed full of phlegm. The sneezing has also commenced. Actually, the fever probably left by Thursday, as I took an aspirin Wednesday evening before going to bed, but Thursday was a pretty miserable day.

Hence, no progress has been done on anything. The scroll which I really need to sketch out and bring with me tomorrow is not even started.

Sewing: no progress made. I did forget to mention that I finished stitching in the extra gussets in the sleeves to the linen herjolfsnes dress, and started pinning the sleeves into the armscyes. I discovered that the sleeves were a bit too large for the hole they needed to fit into so I left the fiddling for another time.

At this point, I will obviously need to sketch my scroll tomorrow, pack, and wrap a bunch of other stuff up at home.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
I brought the linen Herjolfsnes and the gothic army dress to sewing circle today. Starting with the gothic army I shortened the sleeves by approximately three centimetres and refinished the ends. I also placed pins along the sleeve openings every 1.5 cm thinking to put buttons there, but by that point I got bored so switched to the herjolfsnes dress.

I stitched up the sleeves of the Herjolfsnes dress into cones and felled the seams, then I cut a 10 cm slit in each sleevehead and cut out triangular gussets to go in those slits. When I've done that I can finally attach the sleeves to the body and hem the thing and I'll be done with it. It's not a time-consuming job, but getting the little gussets in nicely will be a bit of a fiddle. Unfortunately I had to grab my stuff and run to catch a bus so didn't get further than cutting them out.

I'll probably continue sewing tomorrow - maybe even get to finish the Herjolfsnes tunic. At which point I can pick up any of the other projects on my list. Or feel entitled in starting a new one. Maybe continue on the viking outfit that was derailed; fix up the apron dress to wearable status and see about a kirtle.



We talked a little bit about the standard of our sewing circle, and pretty much right away hit upon that we're not at the standard level for the SCA. Nearly everything we do is fromprimary or good secondary sources. Hand made, proper materials and methods etc. Nearly everything. The standard for SCA is not kept this high - we're not at an average level. With this in mind it's not hard to imagine that we can scare newbies away.

At the same time, we are aware of our level, and always try to tell new people who come that it is absolutely OK to use the sewing machine to make your garb. Especially if you are new - it's not really going to help if you are new and spend months and months making your first garb only to realize at the end that that wasn't the period you wanted to go with. Or never even finishing it. It is much better to start by make simple garb on the machine and spend a little time looking at what other people are wearing and researching the periods that catch your interest. Then, when you know where you want to land, you can take your time with it. Then it's time to think about possibly stepping up the standards.

Personally I love it that I joined a group where the standard is this good. It's a challenge for me, and I learn alot. I still feel like a newbie a lot of the times. Plus, at the sewing circle today we had a strawberry/chocolate mousse cake and a chocolate cake with our tea - yummy, yum yum. Something to consider also is look at the standard of each project. Is it meant to be a reproduction from a single source, a creative endeavor from a standard look, or utilitarian garb for hard work. You tailor your methods, materials and standards to fit each differently.

That's why I say I'm putting a little too much effort into my blue linen herjolfsnes dress. These dresses were not made from linen, and me spending the extra time doing it by hand is not going to make it any more authentic than the already glaring anachronism. On the other hand, I enjoy the handsewing, and pulling out the machine and trying to convince it to work with me is nothing but an exercise in frustration. In the end, I will get a perfectly functional piece of garb that I can throw on for those 5 a.m. biffie runs.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Tonight I cut 5 cm off the top of the linen herjolfsnes dress. After unpicking the shoulder seam and ripping off the facing. I then stitched on a new facing slightly larger than before and re-did the shoulder seams using a flat fell seam. End result: about the same, the neck-hole is a teeny bit larger, but I still need to take my glassess off to get the damn thing over my head. I am calling it done in that department. I'm not touching the damn neckhole again!

I then also trimmed down the armscye, cut off about 4 cm on each side to make the body piece shaped, like the drawings of H39 shows. This means I now (again) only have the sleeves to sort out and the hem to turn up. I can fit two projects in my bad no problem so I'll bring the Gothic Army Dress and the linen herjolfsnes dress to tomorrows sewing circle and we'll see what I get up to. Re-make sleeves, or attach buttons and sew buttonholes.

I've also, while trying out my new comfy armchair, continued blackworking cuffs. I've gone ahead with the acorn motif I picked and might have come up with a good way to do the diagonals so it won't look retarded. Probably won't bring that for sewing circle though - put it in a separate little bag and bring it as Tuesday shire meeting handcraft instead.

And that's the state of things as I head to bed. Goodnight LiveJournal-land.
liadethornegge: (scribe)
All large strucural seams of the H39 dress are finished. I've yet to hem it, and the sleeves are still loose. At this point I took a closer look at the pieces to the H39 original and notice that the armscyes are shaped on the body panels. This is good, as when I tried the dress on I marked on the shoulder seam where I would want the sleeves to go. This means cutting off around ten centimetres at the shoulderpoint.

Another closer look also reveals that the side seams on the body panels are shaped as well. Oh well. I've said it before and I'll repeat that I'm putting in a lot of work on this that's really overkill in any case.

I'll probably end up making the neckhole a bit larger before I'm happy, because, as it is now, I've got to take my glassess off and pull out my ponytail to comfortably get it over my head!

------------------------------------------------

This evening I popped over to Filippa's place and we did some illumination together. She on her piece, me on mine. And a good thing it was too, because I needed to get alot done. I still have a fair bit left to do on the scroll which is meant to be finished by the event this weekend (Nordmark Uni II). Yes, it is a backlog scroll, but I have promised the recipient that she would get it in her hands at this event. I should be finished enough that I only have to get the signatures at the event. Getting it out now will also mean she gets the scroll during the same reign as it was awarded - which I approve of heartily - having to wait for a scroll you know is almost finished is a drag.

I got a real kick in the behind when I started doing it in any case, so now that I'm back home again I've pressed on, and I shall continue for as long as my hand remains steady and I'm feeling alert. I'll try my damdest to finish it tomorrow too, so that I won't have to worry about it on Friday when I need to pack. Pictures... not yet. I'll take some tomorrow. It's coming along though. It's coming along.

Back to the desk, have some final flowers to paint in.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So I've gotten quite a lot done on the H39 - all (6) gores are now stitched into place, and the seams felled. I've pinned the two side seams together, but not done anything further. I'm pondering what to do about the armholes. They're huge as it is now. Filippa mentioned I might have waited doing the shoulder seam and neckline until I had that sorted, but doing that would raise my centre gores to un attractive height (to my mind). It would also mean having the side-gores flaring out at the same place - quite high up. So I think I'll want to add a bit of piecing under the arm.

Also still pondering if I should do something about the sleeves I have to make them the conform to the rotated sleeve bit. Maybe add a false seam. But that'd be a silly amount of work to put in on this dress.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Sewing Circle today. I felt rather productive at the end, but was starving by the time I got home. After a couple of hours under a blanket, wearing my bed-jacket in bed I am finally starting to warm up, though my fingers are still cold.

I got the neckline sorted, a facing stitched in and also backstitched the shoulder seam. I don't want to do a flat felled seam there I think, I'd rather just spread my seam allowances and add a binding strip over the seam to reduce on the bulk. (my typing is a bit slow as I tore up the tip of my left ring finger on a pin and I'm bandaged).

I pinned the four side panels into place inside out, and had to take all the pins out and re-do it properly which took its own sweet time.

I'm not sure what I want to do with the sleeves. I've cut them out already, in a standard sleeve-pattern with the wave-tip centered and surrounced by two valleys. H39's sleeves are the standard rotated kind with the seam along the back and a triangular gusset inserted in that seam. I might want to sew my sleeves together and cut them up along that back seam to get a gusset in properly. I don't know yet. I don't know if I'd have enough room to do that but I do remember being not very careful when I cut out the sleeves in the first place.

Filippa mentioned today that I wouldn't be lining this dress: Very true. Putting another layer to this fabric is not really needed. It's not supposed to give me any stability - it's not even fitted. And the drape is, I think, rather nice as it is already with all its weight. I haven't seen how it all works stitched together into a full kirtle, but it certainly doesn't need any more weight added to it. No lining also means I need to be careful how I finish my seams, which is another reason for adding a binding strip over the shoulder seams.

Now my finger and head both pound too much to go on rambling. I took a few pics tonight, I might upload them later.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I was up before the sun this morning, which - along with a slightly shorter schedule than I anticipated on - resulted in lots of time to sew. I took advantage of that and jumped straight onto my blue linen formerly meant to be a middle-layer kirtle for the viking apron dress. I suppose I won't call it the Viking dress anymore, but rather a loose 14th Century dress, after the style of Herjolfsnes 39. Or just the linen Herjolfsnes dress... or some such.

In any case, I've completely stitched in one central gore (running stitch in silk thread and felling with hemstitch) and have just finished the running stitch on half the other one. This blue linen is rather peculiar in behaviour. When I get it wet it is a sleek and yielding as anything, but when it dries out again (after I've ironed it, true, but also before) it springs back into rather staunch proportions. I know I've prewashed this fabric, and I also know I ironed it rather thorougly after doing that and putting it in storage until it was cut out. I find this behaviour very odd, and it doesn't really lend itself to sewing ease. It resists the needle, though the thread goes through it like a dream.

Maybe I need to abuse it or something. In fact, I think I'll take a piece now and freeze it, as [livejournal.com profile] linuxwitch suggested in a comment a while back. /a minute passes/ The deed is done. Will have to fetch it tomorrow and see how it goes. In any case I think I shall launder the dress once it is finished before I wear it for the first time. Pictures, at this point, would be boring - hence I have none.

Good news about my circular linen veil - I washed it today and after a spin in the tumble dryer it came out much more malleable than before, even after ironing. Hooray.

That might be it too, tumble dry the dress - hmm, might try that! It ought to be large enough to withstand possible shrinkage, though I doubt that will happen.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I meant to do an update on my progress on the first sewing circle of the term but forgot. Here it comes now.

I brought with me the brown test doublet and the shirt. On the shirt I started by dividing the strip of collar and cuffs into two, with collar separate and the cuffs still together, then I pulled a thread in the middle so that I can see which will be the outside and which the inside of the eventual cuffs.

Then I started embroidering, which is where it all went wrong. I don't think I like the acorns and leaves border now. It's an absolutely annoying pattern to get even and all the diagonals - ugh - it kills me. I didn't do very much of this though, and I haven't pulled it out - but I am strongly considering it, to go with another pattern instead. We shall see.

On the doublet I got a little more done. I attached the lacing strips finally, and could then try it on. Only problem was that while I was handling the doublet I heard a sharp *snap* sound coming from the cable tie that runs along the front closing. The curved front closing, requiring me to glue together two cable ties.

*sigh* The break is above my bust, so stability there is pretty much down to the cut rather than any stiffening agent, so technically I shouldn't need it there. Problem is that now I've got a loose bit of cable tie flopping inside the channel on the interlining fabric. I'm unsure if it will stay where it is (because the channels were a bit tight) or if it will slide down and cause problems. At the very least the snapped ends should be fairly sharp and might start poking out. Grrr.

Also, trying the doublet on with the lacing and the hooks and eyes I was not quite as happy as I had been :( The back still looks snazzy, but the front ... not so much. Gapping and wierd angles and yuck. I am going off the concept entirely. I was, and am, very grateful that this is in fact a test project. I now know a few more of the pitfalls than I did going in. I just don't know how to fix them. I don't know if I want to be making a velvet doublet any time soon.

More palatable to me right now is working on the former viking tunic which has turned into a Herjolfsnes tunic. I cut it out and discovered I made it much much too wide at the hem to fit under a fairly close-fitting viking apron dress. I was given the alternative of looking at the Herjolfsnes dresses and found that #39 fits the bill. The only difference then is that I need to swap around the orientation of the first pair of side-gores compared to my diagram, but that's an easy alteration. I've even started pinning pieces together - starting with cutting up a slit in the centre of the front and back panels and pinning the triangular gores in there. I was so enraptured by this task that I nearly missed an appointment yesterday! In any case, I shall bring this project with me on Saturday, when the first regular sewing circle starts, last week's was extra, and use [livejournal.com profile] helwig's handy neckhole guide thingy to cut out the neck on the dress. I might have enough to do a facing even. I might also be so mad as to embroider on this one. But I've said that before and it's never happened, so let's not get our hopes up, eh.

And that's all she wrote for now.

Doh!

Sep. 12th, 2005 04:42 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
Well, I thought I had all the information. I thought I had all the angles covered. Turns out, I didn't!

Imagine, if you will, a very full-skirted dress, with gores as wide as the fabric allows, utilizing it maximally for width at hem. Imagine, next, a fairly tight apron-dress ontop of this.

Are we all seeing the hobble-dress effect?

Yeah.. not pretty.

Sooo, I've not cut out a Viking tunic at all, oh no! It's a Herjolfsnes dress! Yes it is! It shall be practical, and easy-on. It shall be, a peasanty, not very fitted, gothic period dress instead. You will all promptly forget that I said blue viking tunic, because obviously I already have quite enough blue dresses, and instead remember it as a green one from the very start. Yes, that's it. Good, now here' my account number for the deposits of all your money.... Oh.. damn, not falling for that one either.. heh. Never mind.

Right, not a catastrophy, but annoying all the same. I even ironed the pieces. These are mistakes you make and learn from for next time :)

ETA: I calculated it, and the difference between the blue herjolfsnesdress and the green Viking tunic is 480 cm to 315. So, yeah, nearly two metres of hem extra.

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