liadethornegge: (website)
I've uploaded a few more albums to picasa, and updated my website accordingly. The Tudor court gown now has photos, as well as the embroidery page and the scribal desk (although that was already functional before).

I was asked particularily about the Tudor gown and embroidery at Glötagillet, and I promised to do something about that. Several more people mentioned that all pictures on my site were broken. I guess I have some local readers :)

So, while working on another new shirt, I'm taking breaks to update my site a page at a time. The site has no deadline, but the shirt does. I also have a firm deadline in my current scroll. It's got to be finished by new years.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Last night I pulled out one of the bags on my spare bed containing my Tudor court gown accessories. I prodded and poked the French hood, pulled out the jewelery and put it all away again. Then I pulled out the "fore-sleeves" as I call them, or the false undersleeves that are visible inside the fur turn-backs.

I cut out the pattern in a very synthetic, stiff material which I for some reason bought a scrap of a long time ago. I finished one sleeve entirely before remembering that I had taken them apart for two reasons:
  1. Add stiffening interlining
  2. Reshape the upper edge into a curve to allow my arm more room and prevent wrinkling.
No. 2 had not been accomplished, so I unpicked the overcast upper edge and cut out a crescent at the top and used that first one to accomplish similar shape for the other sleeve.

I overstitched around the sleeves entirely to make it all a bit neater, and to prevent the lining to roll out to be seen. Then, I cast a crafty eye on the white satin look-alike material I bought to cover the coif brim of my French hood. This I have only started to attach on the inside of the gaps I left between buttons that I need to attach. I still have buttons from when I picked them off the sleeves in January (wich was when I last wore the gown). I'm making the satin pouff on the inside so that I can push through the gaps so that it appears as in portraiture. Should also remember to stitch on the false embroidered cuffs - if I can locate them.

In any case - the sleeves are already behaving much more stiffly, much more as they ought to rather than as limp noodles.
liadethornegge: (Default)
On Saturday's extra sewing circle I got a fair bit done. I clipped and felled the seam joining sleeves to body of my gothic fitted dress. That went fairly painlessly, despite the fabric turning some tight corners - the wonderful elasticity of wool! I tell you, it's amazing. Anyway, I did the seams, ringing the seam itself with tiny prick stitches on the outside, so you can really tell it's handmade. It wasn't as if I planned it that way, but that was how I had been felling all the other seams. I didn't even think about what kind of stitch I would use I just went ahead and did it.

Then I swore a bit as I realized I had forgotten to bring with me extra wool to cut out a strip to face the lacing edge with on the inside. The fabric should be good to hold up to eyelets, with wool and linen on the inside, but I figure I may as well be extra sure, so I cut out a strip of wool and stitched it invisibly along the inside front closing edge of the gown. I also measured out and added pins where all the eyelets go. I counted them, at two centimetres apart, 26 per side. So that's 52 eyelets I have to make. Oh goodie.

I started the eyelets too, after fiddling a bit with getting the strip to lay smoothly and not pull at anything (the front edge has a bit of a curve after all). I did the first one, the one at the bottom edge of lacing, using silk buttonhole floss, was displeased and then continued pushing two more holes and overcasting the edges with six or seven stitches of regular silk sewing thread. That should keep the eyelets open so I can do a proper eyelet with buttonhole floss afterwards. Hopefully they will then not look like utter crap when I do them properly, and with the hole opened I may be able to try it on without having to do all eyelets. I need to try it on for two purposes:

1. Check the neckline
2. Check hem length

The neckline looks good in front, but in back I did not cut out enough of a curve. I've had this problems with all of my generic medieval garb so far. I've been lazy, or cheated and just cut the back of the neckline - well, not at all frankly. Just left it a straight edge running into the shoulder seam. Stupid of me, really, but I suppose I have to learn the hard way.

I have not entirely made up my mind how to handle the rest of the front seam of my dress. I mean, I have definately decided that there will be no more eyelets on this gown - I know there are people who do buttons from floor to throat on a "cotehardie" but I'm not a fan of that method, and besides that, lacing an entire gown from floor up seems pretty stupid. You only need it across the torso where you want to pull it tight. I may just lay it right sides together and whipstitch the edges together - I mean, that method has worked for me before, notably in my cloak which is made from damned heavy material and lined. I didn't get much of a hard line in the seams at all, was in fact able to smush the edges up against each other most satisfactorily.

If I don't whipstitch I may do something very crafty and make it look like I have actually sewn the two edges together before attaching the lining (which is a bold-faced lie). Ah well, I'm sure my fingers will decide once I get to that stage.




So to the pondering - I have deconstructed the sleeves to my tudor court gown, the false "fore-sleeves" as I like to call them. I pulled out the ridiculous chemise sleeves I had inside them - handstitched in linen with a blackworked cuff - and I have ripped open the back seam of the fore-sleeves themselses.

The chemise sleeves I've further ripped apart, taking away the strip I attached the pleating and tie-cords with and cut off the last 10 cm which has the nice blackwork pattern. I am hoping to be able to recycle these now un-finished sleeves into the shirt I want to make. This time re-constructing them in a proper, period, manner. Pleating the sleeve and the cuff separately and attaching the two by sandwiching it between two strips, rather than just one. I may end up not using the sleeves for the shirt though - the quality of material is different from what I bought with the shirt in mind. But the blackwork is lovely so I don't want to have wasted that effort. I may just make them into cuffs which I can mount into the new fore-sleeves.

When I say new fore-sleeves I don't mean actually new - I need to re-use the ones I have, but I must interline them with something stiff - the floppy curtain and flimsy cotton I lined it with is simply not good enough. When I do this I also mean to cheat on the "chemise poufs" that need to peek out at the bottom of the sleeves. I have enough, probably, of the satiny polyester material I used to cover my French hood coif brim. This would be ideal poufy material for the fore-sleeves, trying to look very fich and fluffy. It may be that it is too thick, in which case --- well, in which case I say screw it and start to cry. No, not really, but maybe use a little of the fine white linen that is meant for my shirt. It doesn't use much to create poufs anyway.

My French hood is still disassembled, with the veil half stitched on.
liadethornegge: (ego)
Sewing circle was as pleasant as always, despite me being utterly frustrated by stitching on first the velvet strip on the crescent, then the billiment to the velvet, pinning the veil to the coif brim and then starting to sew it I was calmed and encouraged by Sara, and by a companionable duck in my lap. I got some stuff done on it after all, and I unpicked the fore-sleeves of Tudor fame from the ridiculous false chemise-sleeves.

The fore-sleeves need reshaping in the back, stiffening, false poufs and a false embroidered cuff to be reasonably wearable again. I can manage the stiffening and poufin and cuff. The reshaping is slightly more dicey, but I'll manage it somehow, I'm sure. I think I'll probably have to measure though, to make sure that when I put my arm in they won't end in the middle of my underarms.

We chatted and gossiped as usual, and the Lovely Hostess proposed a Most Excellent Idea(tm): Aros should rent the same classroom at Katedralskolan one more day a week and all those interested in illumination will go there. I think that is such an excellent  idea I am even more disappointed I cannot make it to the Annual Meeting of SKA-Aros. There's alot of things that will happen at that Annual Meeting, new Seneschal, and president and lots of possible changes, not least of all membership fee since we are now an affiliate of the Swedish national SKA organization. The paper-work has finally been put together and sent in, so we were made official affiliates at the Annual meeting of SKA Nordmark after Nordmark University.

So, illumination, we have quite a bit of supplies that belong to Aros, table-cloths, colours and books. Not all of it will be available to shlepp to the locale, but table-cloths and the nifty box of colours should be -very- doable. I mean, we are at least four people who will come, possibly six, and one person who attended the Aros Grand Scriptorium was interested enough to come to the Feast of St Bruno, but was mostly only interested in illumination and calligraphy - so if we can get that up and running we might get her involved more in the SCA. I was also one of those who was recruited though the scriptorium -- so if we can once again put that information out there's the chance of another avenue for recruitment.

I mean, the choir-people who are potentially Shire-members I have never even met in two. three years of involvement. That, I think, is sad.

But anyway. I'm mostly babbling out of my fingers now because I feel ... odd? ... energized? ... but don't know where to put that energy to use. I am also cold, so would rather like to just curl up in bed as opposed to just on top of it.

I will miss the Annual meeting of SKA Aros because I'll be in the states at the time. I could, technically, make it to the Winter Games which start the same day that I arrive back in Sweden, but, I don't think I can make it financially. Not if I'm going to do Double Wars.

The next sewing circles are all planned in though, up 'til Double Wars, with one extra inserted the week before. The other weeks we could add extra meetings Agnes is gone, or it's Easter.

The Hood

Jan. 27th, 2005 04:00 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
Yesterday, after finishing Othello I took up the hood project again, ripping apart the ex-skirt, using the side-back panel to cut out my "sleeve" shape to be my veil. Cutting it out went painlessly, I used the shape the panel had already, which was slightly more tapered than Ninya's pattern called for, so it is wider at the top, but the same size at the bottom as the pattern. I don't know what that will do to it, but I figured with velvet the less I have to cut into it the better, plus, the joining together into a sleeve again went much smoother when I took my stitches in the old seam-lines. It was already marked, even, folded, etc etc. Much quicker all over.

I sewed it up then cut out the icky poly lining material and pinned it into place and folded over a seam allowance/hem at top and bottom. Slipstitching down all seam allowances also fastened the lining in one fell swoop and I have just to mount it to the coif brim.

I removed the crescent from the brim, ran a gathering stitch in the veil and tested it out with just pinning the veil to the top of the coif brim. Putting it on me I discovered that I might end up with a back-heavy hood which will need a chin-strap. I don't want to, but that's where I might end up.

Must also attach billiments. I think I will not have time to mount them in a velvet strip as Bess suggested. Not for this event.

Not when the scroll needs preferential treatment. I could of course not finish it, hand it in, they can present it in court and then take it back to do the last finishing touches as well. I could do that, but it feels somehow cheating.

Anyway, must eat before I faint, then do everything.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Well, since I had such a productive weekend I thought I should update my site to reflect that.

Although I did get a bit of hand sewing done on the gothic fitted dress on Saturday, more time was spent playiing press photographer for a friend, so there are no huge developments on that front, except that I had help fitting the dress again. The news is good; my pattern holds, the sleeves should fit right in and the length of it is just about perfect. I just have to do it now.

For my second in-work project, the brown test doublet I did a sneaky update on that page and added a link to another costumer who is also making the Arnold doublet. Her gown is looking fabulous and splendiferous and I hope I can match that eventually.

Lastly, on Saturday evening and Sunday I worked almost exclusively on the French hood, which came along splendidly. The crescent is finished, I just need to finalize and attach billiments to it. I need to make the veil, probably line it with some of the yucky poly-lining material I ripped from an old woolen skirt. I'll use Ninya Mikhaila's pattern which is basically a standard sleeve tube without taper. Then I can stitch that on, and then re-attach the crescent at the proper position, plus the frilly pleated goldy thing underneath the coif brim and the billiment ontop of the brim. I should be able to do that this week.

Of course I also have to read Othello, write a page on jealousy, read up on Hermeneutics and participate actively in class on that. Then on Friday it's Event Time! Wheeee!
liadethornegge: (garb)
I won't be too sad if my GFD will not be finished in time for University, because I have decided to go as flash as I can and bring my Tudor court gown for the Banquet/court. This means I need to finish my french hood and preferably also manufacture a pearl necklace to wear with it or I will look bare and undressed.

But it's full on princess for the day, so I'll be working on the hood, rather than the GFD, which is nearing completion.

 I started sewing together the shell and lining at sewing circle today, which means I decided on a neckline and front-closing. I am turn-stitching it together all along the neckline and the front seam from neck to toe. I will then turn it right sides out and whip the front edge together from floor to mid-hip, leaving the rest for eyelets to close. That way I have my neckline and front edges finished in one fell swoop, but it still leaves alot of extra fabric for the armscyes, what with my freakishly large seam allowance of 3 cm. I had a little help to try the sleeves on today and they pronounced them OK so I guess I'll just stitch them in where I had drawn the lines if it will fit. And then hem it all around. The length is good, so I basically only have to fold the hem over and cut off the excess that is in the lining.

I took out the hood, to see the state of it, when I got home, and I just have to do the crescent, finish off the back of the coif brim and attach the veil to be ready for mounting billiments.

Billiments which I am still unsure how to do. I asked the ladies who said I could just string the pearls etc on a piece of buttonhole silk and stitch down between each pearl and it should hold. It is not as if I am going to be messing about with it that much after all.

Oops, now I remember, I need some metallic gold to do the pleated bit sticking out under the brim! Gaah, need to get that, plus I need to do the reading and thinking for my course as well. Alot of reading and thinking. Yikes.

Also at the circle I took about sixty pictures of one of the ladies doing naalbinding. She is holding a course at the University about it, and asked me for space on my webpage to host some pictures. So I took the pictures, and when I got home also edited them, cut down excess and resized them, and uploaded them to their own album in my gallery so she can come in and add descriptive text to each of them in step. Very interesting for me to get a private lesson in naalbinding, but it also took a hell of a lot of time out of my own sewing. It's alright though, I am now not too bothered about finishing the GFD for University, and I hadn't brought the hood.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I started working on making a working pattern for my French hood now, and I think I got quite a ways! Check it out at the extras for the write-up and piccies. I think I will go ahead and start cutting out my buckram-substitute now. Wish me luck!
liadethornegge: (garb)
Tomorrow I have sewing circle. Immediately followed by birthday ---
Interlude:
The Swedish word 'fika' is such a good word. It can mean a lot of things:
First thing in the morning breakfast
On any other occasion it means something drinkable will be served, often coffee or tea, Something edible can also be served with it; for example sandwiches, or cookies or cake.
---
Immediately following the sewing circle we are invited for birthday-fika at Veronika's place starting around six. But we have to quit the sewing circle around five because the hostess is going to a ball.

OK, so I'm going to sewing circle tomorrow, and I am thinking I should make that french hood that has just not gotten done so far. Especially if Jen Thompson wants to use me for a feature. That outfit just isn't finished without the hood, and I have scrap material at home that I can use for it. I must go back and re-read Bess' mail to me on the subject.

I'm not so much bothered about the lack of jewelery as I am about the hood not being there.

Update

Aug. 18th, 2004 05:07 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
I just put the update in on the finishing of my Tudor court gown. I wore it and felt like a princess. Me so pretty...

Anyway, check it out at http://swein.campus.luth.se/lia/garb/2003tudoreliz.html
liadethornegge: (Default)
So today I made a pair of sleeves, dark blue linen lined in the light blue that I used to line the skirt of my tudor working class dress. I made up each sleeve in either fabric, then bagged them together so I can easily take them apart and replace with wool and leave the linen for lining if I want to.

They went together nicely from the curved sleeve pattern I had from Margo's Patterns, and are reversible for more versatility.

I also cut out a simple tunic style dress in the green linen, planning on making it a keyhole neckline. I had a limited amount of that fabric, 2.60 metres, so I cut the body parts from the full width of the fabric - making it slightly short on my frame - two sleeves, gussets, two-part gores in the sides and a single large triangle gore in the front and back, inserted into slits in the fabric. I cut it out, and have sewn the body parts together at the neck, the side-gores to the body parts, the gussets to the sleeves and the sleeves to the body parts. I just ran a straight seam along each seam on the machine, zig-zagged the edges together and pressed them to one side. Speed of assembly is important here, not that I got it all done. But I did do the other sleeves.

I also finally finished the poufy chemise-sleeves that go inside the fore-sleeves for my Tudor court gown. Stitching the wrist-band down over the cartridge pleating and I made simple ties, two on either side of the open cuff to tie on. They are all finished, done done done.

Tomorrow I think I'm gonna go buy the water-proofing for my cloak plus some other things I need to have. Earplugs, sunscreen, suchlike...

I felt a bit slow today though. Wierd for what I got done. I could have done more though.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Well then, I got to the first sleeve, fairly quickly that sleeve was finished. I just have to stitch it onto the dress itself and work out exactly where to attach the foresleeves and poofing chemise sleeve.

I also finished the bodice for the tudor working class entirely, and ran two threads through the folded down edge of my skirt to cartridge pleat it. Fairly painless I have now also pinned it to the waistline of the bodice. First of all I lined up the centre back with the centre back of the bodice and skirt. Then I pinned the front of the slit to the front of the bodice, leaving a centimetre on either edge overlap so that it won't gap open too much when wearing. Should work I hope. Also left another ten centimetres flat in the front before the pleating starts. Only pinned as yet, as I am sort of fearing the pain to my fingers that I remember quite well from attaching the skirt to the tudor court gown.

Once that was pinned it was when I finised the fur turn-back sleeve, pinned it into place temporarily to the dress and tried it on. Looks good actually, but I think I need to rotate them just a little so they will hang straight when I cross my arms infront of me. I made a mark at the trying on and then struggled out of the dress. Actually it was a bit of a struggle to get into it as well, as it was hugely unbalanced with the one heavy furlined sleeve on one side and nothing on the other.

Been listening to Harry Potter while I sew as well. I think Rowling did a good job of the ending of book 4. Made me choke up a bit.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So I took a deep breath and started over. I hemmed the underskirt/forepart for the Tudor court gown, reinforcing the front with some ribbon. Then I got to work doing the same for the dress itself. It wasn't so bad once I got started, especially since I had had the hemline marked out for me before. I just hung the dress up and pinned away on the lining as well as the shell, ironed, checked inside and cut off the hugely excessive bits of lining I had bunching up the hem, then pinned it together again, pinned on the big-ass ribbon I'd gotten and handsewed it all together with blue silk thread. Looks cool. Check out the Diary.

Also just now cut out the apron, basically the width I had of the peachy/pinky linen, and half the width, ie 75 centimetres. It'll look good. I even pulled threads in the fabric to get straight lines to cut along, and am using those threads to hem up the edges of it. Over-kill, I know, but I wanted to! Besides, I have no thread matching it anywhere remotely, so I had to use self-threads or postpone the finishing of edges and  I didn't want to do that. Now when I'm on a roll.


Hope Nan gets loads of piccies at the war.

 
liadethornegge: (garb)
Taking a break from making eyelets, one of my least favourite things to sew, I hemmed my forepart with skirt for the tudor court dress. Now hemming is a tedious and boring job, but fairly straight forward and not difficult. Trying that one on, I then took out the turn-back sleeves which I had put to the side for a later date. I figured now was a later date and that I might decide how to mount the sleeves finally.

I did decide, I shall just sew the upper part of them to the opening I cut/will cut into the fur and lining. Turn it back and attach the upper part with whipstitches or some such to the cap sleeves I have on the dress itself. This mounting shouldn't prove hard to do. I also tested out where the foresleeves should go, and determined that they are a bit too long, I must shorten them and then attach them approximately where the upper part joins with the purred part of the big sleeves. The chemise pouffings I can baste along the back opening of these foresleeves and I shall be, as they say, golden.

Unfortunately, I have a lot of sewing left to do on the fur turn-backs, and since it is fur, pretty much all of it is handsewing. The first one is nearly done, in that I have stitched it together into a pocket with the long front edge  open, cut a slit at the top of the long back where I have stitched on the lining. The lining I cut in two halves and whip-stitched around the back and top edges, leaving the turned back edge where I cut the slit in the fur open, and attached this to the opening in the fur.

All that I had already done, and basically all that is left on this one is to fold the bits of fur that are sticking out further than the lining back over the lining and stitch that down there, so that when I flip them back and over my sleeves the fur will help obscure the fact that beyond this, there is no fancy fashion fabric to back it, only the cotton/linen lining. I might use a broch or a big safety pin or something at the back of my arm to keep the two edges together as well, making the illusion even stronger.

I thought I might tackle this last bit of folding over the fur and tacking it down, only to discover it was an even more hateful job than doing eyelets. Despite having all that soft cuddly fur to fondle I think I'd rather do eyelets. Except that I don't want to do them either just now. So looking at all the other things I could/should do...

  • Hem the blue Tudor court dress, which is already pinned and ready to go
  • Sew eyelets on the working class bodice
  • Sew fur
  • Make an apron out of my peachy/pinky linen
  • Make a start on the french hood
  • Make pattern and toile for a caul
  • Finish the pleating on the big foofy false chemise sleeves to go for the Tudor court gown
  • Finish the back edge of the foresleeves for the Tudor court gown
  • Fingerloop a lace for the working class closing
  • Cut a slit in the skirt for the working class dress and finish it nicely
  • Possibly make a white linen partlet
  • Possibly make the collar-bit for my black wool partlet
Or failing all that, some school-work. Instead I am eating chocolate chip cookies and drinking coca-cola, pondering these things and posting to LJ and surfing up lovely images and such online.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Right, point number 12: "Stitching the lining fabric into the bodice with invisible stitches all by hand."

Not so. Well, it -is- so, I did do it, took me one evening, it looked very nice, everything was nice and smooth and the stitching was invisible. Of course, on the sewing circle the day after I also discovered it is a fabric high on friction. High on friction, and adds a bit to the inside of the bodice, making it even more snug. For a dress like this you expect to need help getting in and out of it, but you do like to make this task easier. Hence time to bite the bullet, rip out the lining that I stitched down and replace it with... real silk.

For a lining this is not too terribly expensive. I mean, yes it is, but I only need around half a metre so I am not having to pay for silk lining for the skirt panels. I wouldn't do that. For the bodice and the short sleeves I can afford silk lining. I bought it, it's dark blue to match the fashion fabric, it is lovely it is luscious and it is thin.

Last night when I ripped out the existing lining I trimmed all edges down so that I have perfect patterns for folding over a small seam allowance all ready to go. Laying these pieces out on the silk however showed me I need to be quite careful about it since I will only just fit the six pieces on the half a metre of fabric. Silk bolts don't come 60 inch wide is the problem I did not quite count on. I can do it though, just needs a little careful planning and thought before I cut. Thanks to rather large seam allowances on the bodice fashion fabric itself I can also stand to make the lining slightly smaller and still cover up the hideous interfacing.

Yesterday at sewing circle I also continued on the fur cutting and sewing. It is going to be luscious, simply luscious. Although after some thought I am starting to doubt my idea about a separate upper part to the turn-backs. I think I will need to attach them directly to the bodice and the sleeves that are sewn in there, I really do. Otherwise things are going to look really quite strange. We shall see.
liadethornegge: (garb)
  1. Underpinnings: Corset. First attempt out of an old sheet and cable ties. The finished product looked good but lacing holes ripped out when I was laced into it. I fixed the first one, but after the second one that ripped I decided time to make a second out of sturdier fabric. It is from the Elizabethan Costuming Page and has a bias tape binding the upper edges where I slid the cable ties (which are rounded off with the help of an ordinary emery board) in.
  2. Underpinnings: Chemise - linen, 3/4 sleeve, about mid-thigh in length and square neckline that still needs finishing. I did this entirely by hand, cutting out the bits by pulling threads in the fabric to ensure straight lines in a fit of neatness.
  3. Underpinnings: Farthingale. Using Margo's farthingale pattern constructed out of blue cotton, white cotton ribbons sewn on to make up the channels and curtainwire in single loops for each fed through to get the required shape. This I did all on the machine because it's easier that way. The waistline I finished with a channel through which I've run a ribbon to tie on.
  4. Bodice pattern drafting. Bodice fitting with the cheap cotton.
  5. Bodice interfacing - an old hideous curtain, as well as the lining.
  6. Cut out the bodice from fashion fabric and mounted it to the interfacing, by hand.
  7. Sewing up of bodice and turning over the fashion fabric and stitching down, by hand.
  8. Lacingholes added on the side-back seam where opening is to go.
  9. Fitting of bodice, and following re-cutting of the waistline over the hips to be slightly higher.
  10. Drafting pattern for sleeves, cutting out in linen interfacing, fashion fabric, mounted fashion to interfacing by hand. Sewing up of sleeves and tacking down fashion fabric by hand.
  11. Attaching sleeves to bodice, stitching down the rest of the fashion fabric around all the edges.
  12. Stitching the lining fabric into the bodice with invisible stitches all by hand.
  13. Cutting out of skirt-panels. Two panels of the full width of fabric at 120 centimeres each, sewn together at selvadge edges to make a rectangle 3 metres wide.
  14. Lined skirt panels with blue cotton/linen blend fabric ready for fitting to waistline.
  15. Drafting of "false" undersleeve pattern to be make from same fabric as forepart (another old cheap curtain).
  16. Cutting out and sewing up of false undersleeves, by hand and closing the lower edge by four buttons laving gaps for chemise sleeve to pouf out.
  17. Cutting out and sewing two chemise sleeves to pouf out of undersleeves. White linen all hand sewn. Leaving a cuff for blackworking and gathering to a band.
  18. Drafting a pattern from Alcega for forepart skirt, sewng up on the machine using the curtain and cotton fabric. Waistline gathered to self-cut bias tape from the cotton with a slit to get in and tie on in the back.
  19. Cartridge pleating the skirt panels and attaching to the bodice by hand, cutting a slit and folding down the edges to get in and out of the dress at all.
  20. Blackwork pattern of acorns in black silk on white linen on both cuffs of the chemise sleeves in progress.
  21. Pattern for a partlet drafted from an already made up garment.
  22. Pattern for french hood taken from Margo's Accessories Pattern.
  23. Blackwork started for mounting on chemise to show up at the neckline.
  24. Fur and lining fabric cut out for turn-back sleeves.
  25. Upper part of turn-back sleeves cut out of fashion fabric and lining and sewn up for mounting on bodice.

Well, that's not a bad list of things I've done so far is it?
liadethornegge: (garb)
That's right, while flaking out, I have gotten some stuff accomplished for the gown. Most notably the sleeves are coming along at a rapid pace.

Dress Diary

I finally got the scalpels out and they made very efficient cuts in my mink coat which is now a bolero style rather than past the buttocks. The skirt of it I simple cut off about 50 centimetres from the hem and then divided into two. This is what I will be using as the fur-lining of the turnbacks. It will be lining the same fabric as I have used to line the skirt - it's a dark blue cotton/linen mix and it matches in hue the fashion fabric that is not meant to be seen at all. The upper part of the turnbacks I have made from the fashion fabric, lined with the cotton/linen blend and this is what I will attach to the dress itself, and onto which the turnbacks will be safety pinned.

I'm done with one cuff for the chemise sleeves and have just started on the second one. I also did a simple vine design to be used to mount to the neckline of the bodice so there is something pretty to look at there (besides the cleavage). I really like doing blackwork, but right about now, I am a little weary of the same acorn pattern that I chose for the cuffs.

I tried to do the gathers to a band that I measured, but had absolutely no luck at all. Expert help is going to be required for this part - which I will get on sunday. I'm also bringing the fur and backing fabric with me for that, moral support and advice on how to best sew that up are in store for sewing circle on sunday.

Saturday is going to be interesting. Ball gowns are involved as is a bride-to-be :)

On Sunday there is fighter practice at eleven and then sewing circle at one. Hopefully I'll get to go to both. Sit in garb supporting the local fighters like human advertisements, and then off to sew lovely lovely things until late in the night.

Blackwork

May. 25th, 2004 03:19 pm
liadethornegge: (embroidery)
I've been spending some of my time this past weekend, long weekend, by starting the blackworked cuffs that will be what shows underneath the undersleeves of my Tudor gown. The sleeve situation is rather intricate actually.

First we have the short sleeves that are attached to the bodice part. These are finished except for the lining which is just whipstitching it into place and will take no time at all.

Secondly there are the false undersleeves which are of the same material as the forepart, a red former curtain. These are basically half-moon shaped closed on the underside by four pretty decorative buttons leaving holes in between where...

Thirdly the false chemise-sleeves will be showing. These are the same ones with the blackworked cuffs which needs to be gathered to a band and have a little string attached to tie together. I am making these as two overlong tubes which I will  probably attach to the false undersleeves OR to the short sleeves that are part of the bodice.

Fourthly there are the typical Tudor turnbacks. This is the fur-lined part. This is where things can go seriously wrong. I do need these, because I have not got enough of the fashion fabric to create the large oversleeves that are not turned back. So no fashion fabric, but I have two mink coats. I shall endeavor to only use the one in making the turnbacks which will be backed by the blue linen I used to line the skirt part. Except that a strip of the fashion fabric will be used at the head of the sleeve, which will likely be visible even when the fur is folded back as in the pictures.

So you see, the sleeves are complicated, and the status for all four parts are as follows:
1: Done, except for lining.
2: Needs to be finished on the back end which will be pinned to 1.
3: Needs blackworked, gathered to a band, strings attached and mounted on or in 1 or 2.
4: Not even started a pattern for it. I'm afraid of messing up my fur as well.

Apart from these issues I need to cartridge pleat the skirt to the bodice. Also sew up the forepart skirt which I have already cut out. I will do this at sewing circle where I have access to sewing machine I think - unless I can borrow a sewing machine off a friend. I must also line the bodice itself. I must finish the neckline of my smock. I must create a strip of blackwork to be mounted to the neckline of my smock. I must also make myself a French Hood to wear with this outfit. I must find, purchase or manufacture two pearl necklaces, one tight the other longer to wear with this outfit. Earrings would be good too. Some kind of girdle would be ideal as well. Let's not think about shoes because there is no way I'm getting any that are appropriate for a long long time.

Other than that - my dress is almost done!

I have been feeling very positive lately, it's true. Of course it helps that my dress is going to be fabulous.

Pity me

May. 14th, 2004 04:34 pm
liadethornegge: (garb)
Today The Doublewars event starts in Attemark. And I am not going. It starts today and runs until NEXT Sunday. That's right, eight days - it is Just Not Fair that I can't be going to have fun. I of course can't be going because

a) No money (to pay site fee)
b) No money (to pay for food while there)
c) No time
and
d) No money (to spend on cloth and period things)

So, I'm at home still. Comforting myself knowing that tomorrow is sewing circle day. Counting on the fact that the hostess is leaving at o'horrible in the morning tomorrow I doubt if we'll be pulling an all-nighter. Unless she has loads of sewing to get done before she leaves.

I've been promised help with a forepart/underskirt and I'm hoping I have bought appropriate fabric for it. And if I haven't, well, screw it, I'm using the cotton anyway. I have the old curtains that are already a pair of loose interchangeable undersleeves to peek out of the Tudor turnback fur-sleeve. This is the same fabric that will be showing in the forepart. I just needed more fabric to make it into a full skirt, not just an apron to be strapped on under the over-dress. I can cheat with cotton, but I can't cheat by snapping the damn thing down to the farthingale. My line goes there.

Well, next thing we want to be doing at the sewing circle, I know at least three of us who want this, is to do a cote-fitting. The Cotte Simple way. There being at least three of us, I think we'll manage just fine. I even have a lovely lilac linen to use for the fitting part which will make a fine lining, and a luscious blue linen to make the dress out of. I can picture us doing it already! It's going to be fun!

Me, get a head of myself with the Tudor gown not even finished? Noooo...
..
..
OK, well, maybe a little, but I don't care - I want it all!
liadethornegge: (garb)
OK, so last night I was stitching on the sleeves to my bodice. They are only half-long sleeves, because that's the Tudor way, and I am very glad of that because:

I got myself into my corset by lacing only every third hole and pulling on the cord myself. It tightened, but not nearly all the way (I saw no muffin-effect). Over this I then pulled my bodice, laced up at an angle in one side of the back for that triangle-shaped back. Now, getting in to this thing did take a little effort, but once my arms were in the sleeves, I was good. And I tightened the lacing in the side until I had a one inch gap to look in the mirror. I was looking good! I like I like, and I am going to have the most gorgeous gown. But once you look you've looked, and now it was time to get out of it. And I couldn't! I was stuck! My arms are fairly much restricted to only lift to 90 degrees or less up, so I could get nowhere at all. I finally pulled the bodice up, unlaced the corset and let that slide down and off, then I attacked the bodice again. With lots more effort, some grunting, and a bit of panting I was finally able to wriggle and squiggle my way out of the bodice.

Lesson learned: Don't try on clothes without expert supervision :P

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Lia de Thornegge

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