New red petticoat

This week, Ed's been away on a work conference and then Gothenburg Street Photo Festival, so I've been left to my own devices since Tuesday.
Fortunately before he left he had cooked a delicious chicken stew thing which kept me fed. As usual, I can barely get to bed at a reasonable hour, and I definitely do not fall asleep at a reasonable hour whenever he's away from home. But I wake up 1 minute before my usual alarm no matter what, so, I've been a little sleep deprived. 

But I have managed to get something done for my new red petticoat. I basted the side seams on the seam lines, tried it on and realized, before even attempting to lace it closed, that that extra 1 cm I marked on the side seams needed to be put into practice.
The new side seams are now properly stitched and I could put the bodice on finally.

The test fit showed I needed to lower the armscye under the arm by about 1 cm, but otherwise it fit pretty well. I also lengthened the shoulder straps by about 5mm. Lowering the armscye fixed some wierd tension issues I was having and I'm now ready to move on to the skirt.

My plan was to have the kirtle finished before Drachenwald Kingdom University (nov 7-9) but now I want to finish it before the Costume parade put on by Old Uppsala Museum which is October 11th. So far I haven't repeted an outfit for when I've been part of their historical costume parade. Last year I wore the mi-parti heraldic gown of bling. The year before I was in my Pisa Kirtle. This year I'm going in my black wool 1575 gown for which I used one particular portrait as a close inspiration. Check out my pinterest inspo board. I want to wear it over my new red kirtle - if I finish it in time.

I do have to pull the gown out of my closet to check if the necklines are compatible, though. I thought I had it stored in my hallway closet, and went to pull it out when I laced the new red bodice on the other day, but it wasn't there, and I didn't want to pull down my clothes bins. I also need to find my velvet veil, and starch a suit of ruffs.

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I seem unable to commit to actually cutting out the skirt for my new red petticoat.

I should have enough for three gored skirt panels. Definitely not enough for straight paneled skirt. I tried that on my splendor solis kirtle and was miserable trying to walk in it so I eventually re-cut it to be gored panels.

Anyway, I'm not sure how to apportion my fabric. The waistline is about one third back panel, two thirds in the two front panels.

Issue one: I don't want to have two panels in the front of the skirt and one at the back. 
Issue two: the bodice is front laced, do I add a seam at the front or try to cut that on the fold and do a slit?
Issue three: how long to make the skirt to best utilize the cloth I have.

I did cut out the thai silk lining for the bodice - but I'm starting to think I didn't give it enough ease, and I don't want to put in the lining before I've attached the skirt, so can't test it yet. Maybe that's also the wrong thing, I might be able to add the lining already.

I'm just feeling meh about it