I seem unable to commit to actually cutting out the skirt for my new red petticoat.

I should have enough for three gored skirt panels. Definitely not enough for straight paneled skirt. I tried that on my splendor solis kirtle and was miserable trying to walk in it so I eventually re-cut it to be gored panels.

Anyway, I'm not sure how to apportion my fabric. The waistline is about one third back panel, two thirds in the two front panels.

Issue one: I don't want to have two panels in the front of the skirt and one at the back. 
Issue two: the bodice is front laced, do I add a seam at the front or try to cut that on the fold and do a slit?
Issue three: how long to make the skirt to best utilize the cloth I have.

I did cut out the thai silk lining for the bodice - but I'm starting to think I didn't give it enough ease, and I don't want to put in the lining before I've attached the skirt, so can't test it yet. Maybe that's also the wrong thing, I might be able to add the lining already.

I'm just feeling meh about it

Currently, I have a couple of thoughts in my mind.

1 I absolutely want to make a new red kirtle, and I absolutely want to tailor another 16th century doublet for myself - both from fabric I have woven myself with these exact projects in mind. 

2 I don't want to step back into sewing 16th century garments because it's been so long and I'm anxious they'll turn out not as good as they ought to be. This is fuelled by thinking of my pisa kirtle, which I wove the fabric for, and whose fit is not as great as it could be. It's quite spacious for me. I changed my mind in the middle of cutting it out, so, things were not ideal.


I have a couple of projects started - one silver silk with some extra embroidery which I have cut out for a waistcoat for my male 16th century wardrobe. It's stalled out because I really would like it to have sleeves, but there's not enough of the fabric to make a pair. I can get arm wings or tabs, but not sleeves. 

The second project is the OL cloak I have cut out of the fabric we dyed last summer. Ahead of May Count this year I designed it, cut out all the silver leather applique pieces, and cut out the cloak out of interlining and the outer fabric. I think the strips are stitched together, but I need a big flat space to do the applique through both layers because the outer is too flimsy and I need the linen to stabilize the whole thing

It's been more interesting, more joyful, to think about weaving rather than sewing for a good long while now. Maybe because I have a pretty extensive historical wardrobe already.

But I definitely do want to level up my wardrobe with self-made fabrics. I guess my sewing circle project this fall will be to make up the red kirtle out of the fabric I wove and then dyed for the purpose. I'll just have to put on my big girl pants and Do It! I will have to make a promise to myself to _NOT_ compromise on the quality of the garment, and fix fit issues rather than just let them slide.

Yesterday we went over to Viscount Gilliam's place to participate in some beer brewing. Ed had talked to him at the Cudgel Pity Party Picknick about it, so we went over and watched as Gilliam and Rasmus did the work of brewing up a batch of beer and explaining the process along the way.

I'm not personally interested in doing it, but it's always fun to watch people do work, and it's interesting to see it done. But I had brought my latest sewing project and started by laying out and cutting a lining for a pair of breeches. Through the day I also managed to attach the piecings which were needed as the fabric is a little too narrow to fit the entire pattern.

We also played a round of a Beer Trivia game while waiting for the batch to ... do something ... and apparently I have learned some things through watching Acquisitions Intoxicated, because I won! Even though we weren't counting. Best category was stacked chairs.

Unfortunately the weather got really annoying as we drove home, so heavy rain in the dark to get home was less than ideal.

Also in the week came the news that Ed's name and device have been registered with the SCA. He had to drop the -us from his name, but could keep it basically the same as he's been using forever, so Edricus Filius Offae it is. And the heraldry that is on his shield and flag etc passed without issue. I basically filled out his paperwork and he sent them in and communicated about the changes needed. So, hurray for that.

The current sewing project I've been working on is the doublet bodice gown, which has become heavily inspired by the extant gown of Pfaltzgräfin Dorothea Sabina, and I am stuck in all the trimming. 

The hanging sleeves has long straight narrow braid, the under-sleeves have row upon row of trim, the bodice currently has trim down the front, and the skirt that is open in the front will also have trim down the opening.

If I have measured correctly I have enough trim to go around the entire hem AND to add more trim to the front and back of the bodice to really go all out. Right now I have to make a call, and what I would ideally like to do is get the skirt onto the bodice, let it hang, and have help levelling the hem so that I can accurately place the trim there, and then use the remains on the bodice. But I need the trim on the bodice in order to attach the skirt properly. So I can't do that.
What I did was to lay the trim sloppily along the hem and put a pin when I reached the other edge, and roughly measured on my bodice the left-overs.

The bodice right now only has trim along the front opening. The Dorothea Sabina gown (images from Grand Ladies site) has the military-style lines of trim parallell to the floor, as well as the diagonal from centre front up to the shoulder point. The back has a line straight down the spine, and two diagonals from shoulder to centre back. I am not sure I have enough to do those extra five lines, also my trim is substantially wider than the extant gown. Also, I already stitched in the tabs at the back... so I would have to remove some to add the trim there neatly.

I'd also prefer not to set in the sleeves until all trimming on the bodice is done. As it is, I'm stuck there, for now.

I will be finished with my gown by then. I will, I will, I will.

Actually, I don't have too terribly much left. I managed to stitch in the skirt entirely this week, as well as finish off the front closure with hooks and eyes over the lacing.

Still left to do, at sewing circle tomorrow, is evening up the hem, and hemming. Cutting out and making up a pair of huge sleeves and applying miles of black satin trim. The hem will go quickly, the trim will be dull but go quickly, the making of sleeves will be a pain in the behind.

So the plan for tomorrows sewing circle is

1. put on the dress to have the hem measured out evenly


2. invent and draft sleeve pattern


3. For extra credit, make up toile sleeve in cotton (unsure if I'm going for extra credit)


4. cut out actual sleeves and start making them.

I think that I will have to do boring hemming and trim application at home, during the week.

I also have some scribal things to finish for Spring Crown, special commission work. I'm writing up invitations for an invitational HF tourney at Double Wars. They've been fun to do, although doing ten identical ones is a little tedious.

At Spring Crown, when the dress will be finished, I will come turned out in an all new outfit. New red knitted stockings, new red knitted half-gloves, new black wool gown and new oxblood red leather shoes. It's going to be awesome, and I can't wait! It will be my first time in Polderslot (The Netherlands).