liadethornegge: (garb)
Sparked by the question, posed by [livejournal.com profile] love3angle on one of my previous posts, I went back to check what I had said previously on the issue of boy clothes, and I found that my entry of 3rd April has my thoughts in quite an organized manner.

From that list I find item: Full circle cape. For male use I'd add heavy-ish ties and wear it tied sideways over one shoulder, under the other arm. Dashing like.

This was something I had completely forgotten! However, I shall just pull down my cloak and see about adding ties. Can't be that difficult, just got to produce or procure ties, preferably with tassels.

I've also got to fix the hooks and eyes down the front of my doublet. I tore one eye out the last time I wore it, and they're set too close to the edge in any case.
liadethornegge: (website)
I've written up a paragraph and added a few photos of the sleeves that now go with my brown test doublet in the dress diary on my website.

Also, I'm looking at my ropa and I'm thinking: when am I going to use that? And I'm thinking I might sell it, if anyone wants to buy it off me. I thought 800 SKR might be a fair price.
liadethornegge: (garb)
So, sewing circle today. Was great fun as usual, and I was rather productive. However, in the middle of all this fun-having Helwig happened to mention that next weekend is the last weekend before the first weekend of Double Wars. In other words, two weeks until the event and AAAAAAAHHHHHH! my mind just exploded a little bit on the spot.

However, I shall not panic, no indeed. I shall not panic. No panicking going on.There will be no need for a big red panic button.

Right, then. As long as we're clear on that.

I know I do not as such have any projects to get done for the event, only my shirt, a couple of cauls and the boy-clothing project. There was much progress on the last one today as the stated purpose of sewing circle this Saturday was: make breeches.

Helwig had prepared by pulling out patterns, books and a number of left-over cuts of fabric suitable for the project. I was given a nice plaid woolen fabric, green and brown, to coordinate with my brown corduroy doublet. Spiff. Herself will be a much more flashy version with a black velvet appliquéd with gold cord to be made into a pair of mid-thigh slops.

I picked no-frills venetians, the kind gathered at the waist and tapering off to tight just below the knees. Margo Anderson's patterns provided the basis for Helwig's slops, while I went to Patterns of Fashion for my venetians. Armed with the scaled down sketch in said marvellous publication I then set to work with fabric, a piece of chalk and a measuring tape. I felt all sorts of crafty and clever once I had it transferred with some minor alterations.

A quick test of the pattern, I pinned it together and they look to be just fine. A bit high in the waist, after I'd already removed 2 inches, but that's a simple job with a pair of scissors. I would have started machining them together on the spot, only I had neglected to bring anything suitable to line them with. So I brought them back home with me and as homework for tomorrow I have to cut out the lining to the same pattern as the venetians. Tomorrow we have the morning set aside for more sewing. Hurrah!

In addition to this progress of leaps and bounds, I finally machined together the sleeves for my brown doublet. They have been sewn together, just awaiting the lining, for ages now. I finally just zoomed the one seam of the lining, bagged shell and lining and the last thing I did was top stitch the upper edge of the sleeves. Left to do for those are now the cuff finishing and adding some means of attaching these sleeves to my doublet. I currently have not decided how - possibly a couple of rings on the sleeves and a corresponding pair in the doublet. We'll see.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Sewing Circle today, and I brought my camera. I managed to arrive at the same time as the other participants, Viscount Bengt and his squeeze, Hedvig. Not to be mistaken for our own Viscountess Helwig.

Pictures are here, and now an update on my sewing:  ...

Yeah, I finished felling the seams on my doublet sleeves down, then I started to pin the lining into place but I lobbied for tea instead. Then I started again on my partlet, attaching the ruff, but diverted my attentions to Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd after sighing at it loudly and sticking pins in it. So, I got basically nothing done. However, Helwig has invited me over on Thursday for some remedial sewing and she gave me homework: To decide on which cut of wool to use for an English Fitted Gown.
liadethornegge: (research)
Playing around a bit with my LJ theme and style. Tried out the 'Mixit' style which makes it all dark and gloomy. But I like it. It's clean. It may change at any time.

---

I've been annoyed by working on the new doublet sleeves because the fabric is uncooperative. I'm topstitching the seams open just to make it all neat and prevent the seam allowances from bunching. I won't do anything to finish the seams off, just add the lining.

The lining I will pin to the sleeves right sides together and then stitch around the top, turn inside out and finish it off neatly ... somehow. All I know is I don't want to fold in the top of the sleeves "by hand" because you'll never get it neat that way - much easier to "bag-line" from the top and fold in the lower edge, which is straight not curvy, by hand.
liadethornegge: (Default)
Well, I didn't manage to pick a fabric for today so I just brought some of the things off the niggle-list, the partlet, veil and sleeves for the test doublet.

I only worked on the sleeves for the brown corduroy test doublet as it happened. I had cut them out already as a three-panel deal, so I brought that plus some of the stiff blue linen-look-alike that I used for the blue herjolfsnes dress to line it with.

First task was cut out a complete lining, no paning. Next task was stitch together the paned sleeves with piping running along each of the three seams. Actually, that was [livejournal.com profile] helwig's idea and she supplied me with some black/silver piping on the spot. Then I went to smooth-talk her sewing machine which always behaves very well with me so I zoomed along stitching on the piping on the seam lines, then pinning all the pieces together and machined along the same line of stitches to make it all nice and neat and with the piping on the outside.

I am so not going to waste time and effort doing that by hand. Anyway, two pretty much complete sleeves later, I cut them down for length and then fiddled about with the seam allowance and lining getting nothing much else done. If I kick myself in the butt tomorrow I might have a pair of wearable, lined sleeves to lace into my test doublet. W00t.

We also fit Hedvig (new member of the shire, just moved in and girlfriend of Viscount Bengt) for a GFD. Helwig and myself did the fitting and it went fairly quickly and I think the dress to come out the other end will be nice.

Status on the gathered partlet: same as before, wanting the neck ruff attached.
Status of silk circular veil: Still not finished hemming.
liadethornegge: (website)
I was having a wierd dream the other day, just before waking up properly, in which I served (to eat, mind) both wool and linen which you cut into little strips with a cheese cutter...

I ... I don't know what this means, but obviously my fabric snobbery has infiltrated my dreamscape, because when asked about it I said that "Of course it's only wool and linen, nothing else will do".



Also, if I did not mention it before, I am now the proud owner of The Tudor Tailor and a string of pearls, all courtesy of the ever generous [livejournal.com profile] helwig. This, of course, from before Visby, but at the time I only had two hours to organize my wits and pack my stuff so it slipped my mind. TTT comes well in handy now for making a middle-class outfit out of grey wool.

Hmm, wait a moment - I have green wool as well, given me by [livejournal.com profile] oldergoddess, in enough quantities to make a lovely outfit. The grey is nice, but it is a bit on the thick side, felted, whereas the green is nice and drapey. This will take more pondering.



Also, website has been updated with the test doublet diary promoted to finished, and new blurb about Visby added to the event section. I did some other changes to the event page as well; namely adding links to other people's event galleries. More photos for everyone, I always say. I'll add more as I find inspiration.

With the promotion of the test doublet to finished diary that leaves NO large project that is currently open. All I have are small things, accessories and the likes - which of course has prompted me to really think about what I want to do next with the fabric in my stash.

Before I forget, I looked at and admired Lady Cristina Stolte's lovely drapey blue wool GFD at Visby. It's unlined and moves like a dream prompting me to want to make a similar type of dress. Fitted, laced, unlined - perfect for warm weather garb. Right now I have three lengths of wool that I can start using; brown, grey and green - so potentially three new outfits.

Of course, I could just finish all the small, niggling mini-projects that I have going at the moment, for lo, they are legion:
  1. woolen hose
  2. leather gloves
  3. tudor court gown foresleeves
  4. french hood
  5. linen head cloth (needs hemming)
  6. silk veiling
  7. garb repairs of various and sundry nature: hems, ripped seams etc.
  8. sleeves for test doublet
  9. lacing cord for various and sundry gowns
  10. rip open and add eyelets on second side-back seam of tudor court gown
  11. leather 1400-ish shoes
  12. sort out jewelery for 16th C
  13. Manufacture girdle belt with the heart-shaped pomander I have waiting
  14. Make a new bag to replace the ratty one I always use for events (and mundanely too)
  15. one or two secret projects to be given away
Yeah, maybe I should do that...

Recent discussions on certain email lists has me thinking about creating standard kit packets that we can give out to newbies as they come. A selection of five different periods that they can look at and choose from as their starting point - with instructions for a simple, complete, outfit for that period. It may be just a pipe dream though. Also, I know so very little about male garb.
liadethornegge: (Default)
And lo, there was progress. Helwig finished some nearly finished projects, Filippa finished her new corset and fitted her doublet pattern, Agdis mended a purse and for myself I finished the Test Doublet!

Lia provar nyfärdig doublet: nu med ärmflärpI know, I can hardly believe it myself, but there it is. While watching Stargate (the first season in recap) I opened up the seam between lining and shell in the armscye and inserted tabs and stitched it all closed again. Voila! Hey Presto! Tadaaa!

If I want sleeves to go with it I have to make those up as well as lacing strip in the armscye, but, for now it's all good. I did have to go in and alter a little bit. One of the shoulder seams did not quite match up, the front and back pieces were not of equal length so I had to pull up the lining, rip open the mounting stitches on the shell to the interlining, cut down the interlining for a little bit and re-fold the shell over the top. THEN I could go ahead and insert the tabs between shell and lining. I took a couple of photos, as can be seen. There's also a couple more shots in the gallery of the other ladies being productive.

I can wear the doublet without any foundation garments without any trouble at all. I am hoping it will go over other garments of like century without too much fuss. And if not, well, I can wear it with just a shirt underneath and a skirt or two. Should look fine.

Of course looking critically at the photo the doublet buckles around the arms. Don't know if it will do that to an unacceptable degree or not with more wear. The future will have to tell.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
Double wars is coming up fairly quickly now, and I feel I ought to look over my list of projects that I said were due for DW this year. So, let's review the list from 9/4-06.

On that list three items were finished, leaving the following:
  1. Wool hose
  2. Gothic Army Dress Sleeves
  3. Brown Test Doublet
  4. Shoes
  5. 1410 Surcote
How am I doing? Words, words, lots of words )

In other news, I started on the 6th of the Drachenwald needlecases today at the Tuesday meeting. My detached buttonhole stitch is looking very nice. The outline of my pine trees continue to look like the drunken scribbles of a blind parkinson's patient. But it's all hand made! (*eyeroll* & *sigh*)
liadethornegge: (Default)
Question if anyone knows off the top: would paned sleeves on a single doublet look weird? Only I've got the pattern copied and I want to test the pattern on something. I thought I might test it on the test doublet.

Testing...

Mar. 21st, 2006 04:13 pm
liadethornegge: (Default)
gallery :: The Brown Test Doublet:
Last three pics. Might not be all bad. Needs shoulderwings though. Not uncomfortable for having worn it around the house for an hour or so. I was also concerned I wouldn't fit a kirtle in underneath the doublet - well, I can. Would probably be less strain if I made the next one slightly larger though - less pulling on the hooks and eyes.
liadethornegge: (garb)
I meant to do an update on my progress on the first sewing circle of the term but forgot. Here it comes now.

I brought with me the brown test doublet and the shirt. On the shirt I started by dividing the strip of collar and cuffs into two, with collar separate and the cuffs still together, then I pulled a thread in the middle so that I can see which will be the outside and which the inside of the eventual cuffs.

Then I started embroidering, which is where it all went wrong. I don't think I like the acorns and leaves border now. It's an absolutely annoying pattern to get even and all the diagonals - ugh - it kills me. I didn't do very much of this though, and I haven't pulled it out - but I am strongly considering it, to go with another pattern instead. We shall see.

On the doublet I got a little more done. I attached the lacing strips finally, and could then try it on. Only problem was that while I was handling the doublet I heard a sharp *snap* sound coming from the cable tie that runs along the front closing. The curved front closing, requiring me to glue together two cable ties.

*sigh* The break is above my bust, so stability there is pretty much down to the cut rather than any stiffening agent, so technically I shouldn't need it there. Problem is that now I've got a loose bit of cable tie flopping inside the channel on the interlining fabric. I'm unsure if it will stay where it is (because the channels were a bit tight) or if it will slide down and cause problems. At the very least the snapped ends should be fairly sharp and might start poking out. Grrr.

Also, trying the doublet on with the lacing and the hooks and eyes I was not quite as happy as I had been :( The back still looks snazzy, but the front ... not so much. Gapping and wierd angles and yuck. I am going off the concept entirely. I was, and am, very grateful that this is in fact a test project. I now know a few more of the pitfalls than I did going in. I just don't know how to fix them. I don't know if I want to be making a velvet doublet any time soon.

More palatable to me right now is working on the former viking tunic which has turned into a Herjolfsnes tunic. I cut it out and discovered I made it much much too wide at the hem to fit under a fairly close-fitting viking apron dress. I was given the alternative of looking at the Herjolfsnes dresses and found that #39 fits the bill. The only difference then is that I need to swap around the orientation of the first pair of side-gores compared to my diagram, but that's an easy alteration. I've even started pinning pieces together - starting with cutting up a slit in the centre of the front and back panels and pinning the triangular gores in there. I was so enraptured by this task that I nearly missed an appointment yesterday! In any case, I shall bring this project with me on Saturday, when the first regular sewing circle starts, last week's was extra, and use [livejournal.com profile] helwig's handy neckhole guide thingy to cut out the neck on the dress. I might have enough to do a facing even. I might also be so mad as to embroider on this one. But I've said that before and it's never happened, so let's not get our hopes up, eh.

And that's all she wrote for now.
liadethornegge: (GFD Garb)
  1. Taste of chocolate cake, ice cream and coffee lingering on your palate.
  2. Beethoven's Ode to Joy on the loudspeakers.
  3. Laced into a sleek, sexy, linen 1410 gown.
  4. Looking at fantastically inspiring rennaisance portraits.
The only thing missing now is the snow on the ground outside my window. It's all rained away unfortunately.

And on I ramble... )
liadethornegge: (Default)
I woke up, realized it was way too early for me to be up and about, turned around and slept a bit more.

I eventually dragged myself over to the scriptorium... )



When I got home I tried on my doublet bodice kirtle and then put on the corduroy doublet ontop, and --- guess what... )

Regarding the music: I pulled out this CD from my rack only a couple of days ago and fell in love with the music all over again. Michael Nyman, The Piano. Yum.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Today at sewing circle I finished up the hooks and eyes on the front closing. I even went so far as to stitch down the lining over the unseemly loops where I stitched them on. I have yet to sew on the lacing strips for a proper try-on, but I put it on with just the hooks and eyes and it stayed on. I think it's coming together rather nicely.

Front. Back.

I am still very much unsure whether or not I will be able to fit an actual dress underneath there... We shall see. To try that theory out I really think I need to attach the lacing strips on the inside. I pinned them into place but then ran out of steam entirely on the project. I tried to do my mundane skirt's waist, but that was a waste of time. Anyway, this was just a quicky update on the status. Check the piccies, comment away; I'm off to watch Jackie Chan and Owen Wilson vying for the hero/side-kick positions in Shanghai Noon, followed by Shanghai Knights on the telly.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Pictures of the lining going in on the front panels, pinned and stitched, covering the seam joining the tabs to the waist. Took them last night, but didn't post until now.

I've also started thinking about this weekend's scriptorium. Getting excited about getting some work done there!
liadethornegge: (garb)
Leftovers, the chocolate cake I made for yesterday's shire meeting, led to me inviting the Princess over for tea, cake and sewing tonight.  She came over around seven when I had made a nice pot of apple-cake tea to go with our chocolate cake. We fika'd first, exchanging gossip and then got to work on our respective project.

Hers: cloth-of-gold - my comment is: Just, Wow! It's going to knock socks off!
Mine: the test doublet.

The Lounging part? Erm, well, it was the only word I could think of that alliterated, unless you count the tea and chatting as lounging. Sorry.

The nitty gritty.. )
liadethornegge: (garb)
I produced pattern pieces and cut out the waist tabs to the doublet during the weekend. Tonight I've got a photo of my three different shapes. I bag-lined the corduroy with scraps from the lovely yellow linen. I'm gonna attempt to sew the tabs to the waistline now. Oh yeah, the pictures:
A look at my three shapes for waist tabs. To the right is the front pieces, to the bottom is the back pieces and the ones to top left is for in the middle. Corduroy bag-lined with the yellow linen.
liadethornegge: (garb)
Before lapsing into idleness and cleaning I did some work on the brown doublet. First I slipstitched the backpiece of the lining into place - it had previously been basted in. I then temporarily attached the lacing strips I started on Thursday at a pleasant sewing-and-DVD session at Helwig's, and which I finished at home the next night. A simple strip of linen, folded once and turned inside out. I marked it every 2 cm and used buttonhole floss to do the eyelets by hand. Two simple layers of linen protests much less than does the edge of a bodice with up to six layers to penetrate. Doing the eyeleys was actually quite enjoyable, once I got over the indignity of again being besieged by a flock and just started working them.

Anyway, I tried it on, with only a t-shirt underneath. Still, should be good - I just need to make sure to decorate the front closing appropriately to disguise the fact that to stitch the lacing strip down properly I will have to go through all layers. I must also add hooks and eyes or else decorative buttons to stop the front from gapping open.

When I can be bothered to put appropriate garb on underneath and try it on again I'll post photos. I probably have to expand the bodice pattern to make it close over the top of a kirtle, but I'll have to see it in action to know for sure; I did not feel as compressed in the doublet as I do in my working class kirtle.

I also made patterns and cut out skirts for the waistline of the doublet. I opted with going for a tabs. First two tabs 14 cm wide at centre back, then three more on either side, 9 cm wide, to come around to the front. I made the edges at centre front and back 'pointier' so that they will overlap a little more there, as seen in PoF (I think - I did this on instinct, misguided or otherwise). Not entirely sure that they'd use those kinds of measurements for waist tabs on a doublet, but I cut it out of my corduroy already so I'm gonna go ahead, at least for this test doublet. I hope it will work out alright.

This week's feature over at Jen Thompson's site Festive Attyre has put me slightly in awe - Christina Claridge has done such a magnificent reproduction of this same doublet it feels silly for me to even try to match that. Still, this is why I'm doing it in brown corduroy first, to test the waters of doublet-making. Not that I can see myself doing all the couching Christina did to re-create the original. Resigned to being second best? - Yeah, that's me, here.
liadethornegge: (garb)
(I wrote out most of this last night, but fell asleep in the middle)

I'm sure another few things will be done before Saturday when the next sewing circle is, but I'll update about the state of my projects now, and expect another one on Saturday or Sunday.

Ropa: I have attached the collar, and am about halfway done stitching the clipped seam allowance down on it. I waited until after I had attached it to the neckline to clip and fold it. I started with the seam allowance on the body panels, stitching them down, then went ahead with the collar, so that now I have the two leftmost collar panels left to do. I shall then see if the collar still needs stiffening or not. Depending on the state of things I will add another layer of either interlining or wool before I stitch on the black silk lining. Then I must make the acetate lining behave properly around the neckline. At that point I will have only the front closing and hemming left to do.


Test Doublet: I have now slipstitched the lining of the collar piece in place, and I might stop there. Before I add the lining in the front panels I must decide exactly how to deal with closure. I don't think hooks and eyes alone will keep it closed, so I must then make lacing strips to go on the inside. It's this business of details that catches me out though. It should go on the inside, but go how exactly?

  • How far in? Well, I think I'll probably have to stitch it down right outside the last piece of stiffening.
  • As what layer? Do I need to do the hooks and eyes first, then cover them up to the hilt with the lining and -then- stitch in the lacing strips? Should I line up until the lacing strip, then do those, then nothing and then hooks/eyes?
  • Stitch how? I could try to attach it through only the (lining?)/interlining, not catching any of the shell fabric, but wil that hold, will it distibute the pull properly? If I stitch through all layers what will I do about the threads showing up at the front? Decoration of some kind, what kind? I don't want to throw away the gold cording thing I have on this - or do I? What then - strips of velvet? cording? I don't have any of that but I don't want to buy more stuff.

Before I can properly stitch down all of the lining I must decide what to do about the waist decoration. Tabs or a skirt all the way around. I'm still not convinced a one piece skirt will look very nice. A two-parter might work. I got a wild hair and suggested doing one side with tabs the other with a single skirt and then decide which I like better. I don't know though. It sounds like too much work done over.

I also have to cut out the sleeves and shoulder rolls before I start experimenting with tabs at the waist. I've never done shoulder rolls before either, so that'll be interesting.

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