Remedial sewing update
2006-11-03 09:35 pmWell, today was another day of remedial sewing. I traipsied over to
helwig's place and brought with me the wool I cut out yesterday, as well as the blue linen purchased yesterday but now washed, dried and ironed neatly by yours truly.
I proceeded to cut out the skirt panels from linen, plus bodice lining from the same. Then I went ahead and cut out a layer of interlining from the same linen, using about 3.4 metres so far, with no sleeves cut out of lining material.
I then ironed and lightly starched the interlining linen and mounted my green shell wool to interlining in the usual fashion.
Now, I read The Tudor Tailor's instructions for making up one of these english fitted gowns (page 79) and I must say I am confused. It says to make up the dress and lining separately, and to attach the front part of the skirt to the front of the bodice, then the back part of the skirt to the back of the bodice and only THEN sew up the side seam. This is all very boggling to me. If the skirt is still separate shell and lining at this point won't it create much awkwardness at the waistline join?? If I pleat the back panels of the skirt separately (shell and lining) how do I get them to play nicely together?
I find this description boggling enough that I will proceed in the usual fashion of making up the bodice with interlining, stitch it together at side and shoulder seams, fold the shell in over interlining. Then make up the skirt as two separate layers before baglining the skirt with lining (a seam up one front, around the waistline and down the other front side and then turn it right sides out and press). Then I will take the skirt, gather the back panel leaving the front smooth and whipstitch it into place to the bodice, then stitch the bodice lining into place. Possibly line the bodice before whipstitching the skirt to it, might add some needed strength to the seam - not sure yet. Lastly, add guards all around, and hem. Might add a pocket in the side seam of the skirt too. That'd be fun I think.
On the subject of guards, would it look odd to have them running without break from bodice onto skirt? Or should I let the guard on the bodice and down the skirt be two separate strips? Shout out if you have an opinion, please :)
I proceeded to cut out the skirt panels from linen, plus bodice lining from the same. Then I went ahead and cut out a layer of interlining from the same linen, using about 3.4 metres so far, with no sleeves cut out of lining material.
I then ironed and lightly starched the interlining linen and mounted my green shell wool to interlining in the usual fashion.
Now, I read The Tudor Tailor's instructions for making up one of these english fitted gowns (page 79) and I must say I am confused. It says to make up the dress and lining separately, and to attach the front part of the skirt to the front of the bodice, then the back part of the skirt to the back of the bodice and only THEN sew up the side seam. This is all very boggling to me. If the skirt is still separate shell and lining at this point won't it create much awkwardness at the waistline join?? If I pleat the back panels of the skirt separately (shell and lining) how do I get them to play nicely together?
I find this description boggling enough that I will proceed in the usual fashion of making up the bodice with interlining, stitch it together at side and shoulder seams, fold the shell in over interlining. Then make up the skirt as two separate layers before baglining the skirt with lining (a seam up one front, around the waistline and down the other front side and then turn it right sides out and press). Then I will take the skirt, gather the back panel leaving the front smooth and whipstitch it into place to the bodice, then stitch the bodice lining into place. Possibly line the bodice before whipstitching the skirt to it, might add some needed strength to the seam - not sure yet. Lastly, add guards all around, and hem. Might add a pocket in the side seam of the skirt too. That'd be fun I think.
On the subject of guards, would it look odd to have them running without break from bodice onto skirt? Or should I let the guard on the bodice and down the skirt be two separate strips? Shout out if you have an opinion, please :)