Remedial sewing update
2006-11-03 09:35 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
liadethorneggeWell, today was another day of remedial sewing. I traipsied over to ![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-userinfo.gif)
helwig's place and brought with me the wool I cut out yesterday, as well as the blue linen purchased yesterday but now washed, dried and ironed neatly by yours truly.
I proceeded to cut out the skirt panels from linen, plus bodice lining from the same. Then I went ahead and cut out a layer of interlining from the same linen, using about 3.4 metres so far, with no sleeves cut out of lining material.
I then ironed and lightly starched the interlining linen and mounted my green shell wool to interlining in the usual fashion.
Now, I read The Tudor Tailor's instructions for making up one of these english fitted gowns (page 79) and I must say I am confused. It says to make up the dress and lining separately, and to attach the front part of the skirt to the front of the bodice, then the back part of the skirt to the back of the bodice and only THEN sew up the side seam. This is all very boggling to me. If the skirt is still separate shell and lining at this point won't it create much awkwardness at the waistline join?? If I pleat the back panels of the skirt separately (shell and lining) how do I get them to play nicely together?
I find this description boggling enough that I will proceed in the usual fashion of making up the bodice with interlining, stitch it together at side and shoulder seams, fold the shell in over interlining. Then make up the skirt as two separate layers before baglining the skirt with lining (a seam up one front, around the waistline and down the other front side and then turn it right sides out and press). Then I will take the skirt, gather the back panel leaving the front smooth and whipstitch it into place to the bodice, then stitch the bodice lining into place. Possibly line the bodice before whipstitching the skirt to it, might add some needed strength to the seam - not sure yet. Lastly, add guards all around, and hem. Might add a pocket in the side seam of the skirt too. That'd be fun I think.
On the subject of guards, would it look odd to have them running without break from bodice onto skirt? Or should I let the guard on the bodice and down the skirt be two separate strips? Shout out if you have an opinion, please :)
helwig's place and brought with me the wool I cut out yesterday, as well as the blue linen purchased yesterday but now washed, dried and ironed neatly by yours truly.I proceeded to cut out the skirt panels from linen, plus bodice lining from the same. Then I went ahead and cut out a layer of interlining from the same linen, using about 3.4 metres so far, with no sleeves cut out of lining material.
I then ironed and lightly starched the interlining linen and mounted my green shell wool to interlining in the usual fashion.
Now, I read The Tudor Tailor's instructions for making up one of these english fitted gowns (page 79) and I must say I am confused. It says to make up the dress and lining separately, and to attach the front part of the skirt to the front of the bodice, then the back part of the skirt to the back of the bodice and only THEN sew up the side seam. This is all very boggling to me. If the skirt is still separate shell and lining at this point won't it create much awkwardness at the waistline join?? If I pleat the back panels of the skirt separately (shell and lining) how do I get them to play nicely together?
I find this description boggling enough that I will proceed in the usual fashion of making up the bodice with interlining, stitch it together at side and shoulder seams, fold the shell in over interlining. Then make up the skirt as two separate layers before baglining the skirt with lining (a seam up one front, around the waistline and down the other front side and then turn it right sides out and press). Then I will take the skirt, gather the back panel leaving the front smooth and whipstitch it into place to the bodice, then stitch the bodice lining into place. Possibly line the bodice before whipstitching the skirt to it, might add some needed strength to the seam - not sure yet. Lastly, add guards all around, and hem. Might add a pocket in the side seam of the skirt too. That'd be fun I think.
On the subject of guards, would it look odd to have them running without break from bodice onto skirt? Or should I let the guard on the bodice and down the skirt be two separate strips? Shout out if you have an opinion, please :)
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Not sure if this is helpful, but...
Date: 2006-11-05 07:18 am (UTC)The lining and interlining are only sewn together along the front, the neckline, the armholes and along the hem. The rest of the seams are stitched together before that happens.
Since the pattern that is drawn is without backpleats they have not made any description for how to get that version nicely attached. However if you make a version without backpleats you will get very nice seams since any adjustments are made along the sideseams and all seams will end up looking perfectly aligned with eachother.
I have no good suggestions really on how to get the back panel as neat with a pleating, I'd probably make it similar to your suggestion and finish the bodice and the top and front of the skirt before I attach them to eachother.
Why not email the authors and ask them to clarify just that?
The instructions in my book are on page 79 btw.
Hopefully helpful / Malin
Re: Not sure if this is helpful, but...
Date: 2006-11-05 09:16 am (UTC)Thanks for the help! And of course it's on page 79, accidental transponation of the digits on my part there.
oh yeah!
Date: 2006-11-05 07:24 am (UTC)About guards, both versions seem to have been equally common (at least what I can see). Go with whatever is easiest for you.
/ M