Ponderings...
2004-11-03 09:35 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
liadethorneggeI wanted to do some sewing today, but it felt like too big a project to start assembling the GFD. So I went to my fall-back, ie updating the website, but got stuck in the galleries looking through the pictures of the construction of the working-class tudor. I realized that I have a fairly small job left to do on that outfit: sleeves.
Well, I have the sleeves already, I finished them the week leading up to Visby, but I did not have time to do eyelets in them for lacing on. Nor do I have means to fasten them in the working-class gown. My ponderings went along the lines of pulling the sleeves out and having a look. But now that I think about it, I am not 100 % sure I want there to be a series of eyelets at the top of these sleeves.
Why not? I have no idea. I have thought I could reuse these sleeves for other projects, as I made them reversible for versatility in looks and such. But I can't just pin them on, I tried that at Visby and ran into snags:
1. it was hard to do because the fabric of the bodice is under a fair amount of stress and it is four layers to get through plus the double layer in the sleeves.
2. I had to have people help me with them and even then the pins bent, I got stuck in the shoulder and the pins came undone.
I don't believe in that for a permanent solution.
If I add eyelets I will in effect lock myself to lacing them on in a particular way to any garment. Plus I would have to make lacing strips to match to attach inside the bodice of the working-class.
Hmm, world record attempt at procratination in progress??
Oh! Now I remember! I meant to possibly use these sleeves as oversleeves for the blue cotehardie/kirtle I made! Aah. Now we come to the gist of the matter and this argument falls because the length of pin-on sleeves for this period is much shorter than loose sleeves for the 16th century. It would be nice to be able to re-use the sleeves - I may have done them by hand if I remember correctly - but they are full sleeves, meant to sit from the shoulder, not from the bicep as is the case for cotehardie period. Right? Am I right in this? I think I am. The sleeves I remember seeing are at least pinned from the bicep on the short-sleeved overdresses.
Maybe if I fold the head of the sleeve in under itself I could still re-use them as pin-ons for the 14th C. Well, I feel relieved now: logic saves the say. I shall add eyelets to my sleeves and I shall fashion lacing strips to sew inside the working-class gown. Points need to be aquired somehow as well, I think perhaps some finger-looping might work for that. Then I also need some of those little thingies that you crimp to the end of the points... whatchamacallems... Which I don't have at all.
Oh, hang on, I do have the option to go with little rings in the bodice and on the sleeves. I think. Hmm, I think the solution to these problems is bring them to sewing circle and ask the expert.
I am also rather dreading the row upon row of eyelets that await me at the end of the GFD project. At least I was sensible enough not to go with buttoned sleeves!
I am also a little stumped as to how to actually assemble the GFD:
1. a. Treat shell and lining as one, or
b. Treat shell as one dress and lining as another.
2. a. Splay seamallowance to either side and stitch down, or
b. Flat fell (or run and fell) seams, or
c. Some other way?
In any case, how do I deal with the neckline and the front lacing?
How do I deal with the hemming?
Should I get linen thread?
Where would I get it?
How much would it cost?
Where do I get the wax that would be needed?
I've already done the sleeves up treating the two layers as one and felling the seam allowance to either side, folding the cuff in and overcasting that edge to make it nice and neat. I used normal polyester sewing thread for that, nothing fancy. Does that matter? (No, doesn't really matter to me, and I'm the only one that really matters on that - if I know I know, but why would I then point out the discrepancy in the case I go with linen thread for the rest)
Besides, where do I get, can I even get, linen thread in the colour I need?
Maybe I can go with black?
Oh dear.. alot of questionmarks today.
Well, I have the sleeves already, I finished them the week leading up to Visby, but I did not have time to do eyelets in them for lacing on. Nor do I have means to fasten them in the working-class gown. My ponderings went along the lines of pulling the sleeves out and having a look. But now that I think about it, I am not 100 % sure I want there to be a series of eyelets at the top of these sleeves.
Why not? I have no idea. I have thought I could reuse these sleeves for other projects, as I made them reversible for versatility in looks and such. But I can't just pin them on, I tried that at Visby and ran into snags:
1. it was hard to do because the fabric of the bodice is under a fair amount of stress and it is four layers to get through plus the double layer in the sleeves.
2. I had to have people help me with them and even then the pins bent, I got stuck in the shoulder and the pins came undone.
I don't believe in that for a permanent solution.
If I add eyelets I will in effect lock myself to lacing them on in a particular way to any garment. Plus I would have to make lacing strips to match to attach inside the bodice of the working-class.
Hmm, world record attempt at procratination in progress??
Oh! Now I remember! I meant to possibly use these sleeves as oversleeves for the blue cotehardie/kirtle I made! Aah. Now we come to the gist of the matter and this argument falls because the length of pin-on sleeves for this period is much shorter than loose sleeves for the 16th century. It would be nice to be able to re-use the sleeves - I may have done them by hand if I remember correctly - but they are full sleeves, meant to sit from the shoulder, not from the bicep as is the case for cotehardie period. Right? Am I right in this? I think I am. The sleeves I remember seeing are at least pinned from the bicep on the short-sleeved overdresses.
Maybe if I fold the head of the sleeve in under itself I could still re-use them as pin-ons for the 14th C. Well, I feel relieved now: logic saves the say. I shall add eyelets to my sleeves and I shall fashion lacing strips to sew inside the working-class gown. Points need to be aquired somehow as well, I think perhaps some finger-looping might work for that. Then I also need some of those little thingies that you crimp to the end of the points... whatchamacallems... Which I don't have at all.
Oh, hang on, I do have the option to go with little rings in the bodice and on the sleeves. I think. Hmm, I think the solution to these problems is bring them to sewing circle and ask the expert.
I am also rather dreading the row upon row of eyelets that await me at the end of the GFD project. At least I was sensible enough not to go with buttoned sleeves!
I am also a little stumped as to how to actually assemble the GFD:
1. a. Treat shell and lining as one, or
b. Treat shell as one dress and lining as another.
2. a. Splay seamallowance to either side and stitch down, or
b. Flat fell (or run and fell) seams, or
c. Some other way?
In any case, how do I deal with the neckline and the front lacing?
How do I deal with the hemming?
Should I get linen thread?
Where would I get it?
How much would it cost?
Where do I get the wax that would be needed?
I've already done the sleeves up treating the two layers as one and felling the seam allowance to either side, folding the cuff in and overcasting that edge to make it nice and neat. I used normal polyester sewing thread for that, nothing fancy. Does that matter? (No, doesn't really matter to me, and I'm the only one that really matters on that - if I know I know, but why would I then point out the discrepancy in the case I go with linen thread for the rest)
Besides, where do I get, can I even get, linen thread in the colour I need?
Maybe I can go with black?
Oh dear.. alot of questionmarks today.
