Vigil gown, part 2
2012-11-18 04:31 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
liadethorneggeSo the last post was all about the outer layer. This time it's for the kirtle. The only entirely new piece of clothing I had decided on making for the event.
I sketched in my notebook what I wanted to aim for, and included cuttings from the silk fabrics I had to choose from:
I found the wool at Ohlssons Tyger & Stuvar and bought the first bit off the bolt. It was a new type of wool in their stock, and I think we went to the Stockholm store the first day they had it on their shelves. The same day the Uppsala store did not stock it, but one week after it was on display here as well.
The wool was a joy to sew, and I stitched and topstitched all seams in the skirts using white silk thread.
I didn't want to have to wear a corset, so the bodice had to have a little stiffening in itself, so I used a very fine unbleached linen in my stash to create an interlining layer with stiffening on the front panels:
I still used another linen as interlining in the entire bodice, before installing this extra layer. Below, testing the colour of silk on the bodice, showing interlining and clipping to fold in seam allowances smooth:
I was making a separate pair of sleeves, with a modest version of the baragoni I did for my green Venetian gown, but I also wanted something decorating the shoulders of the kirtle, so I cut out little rectangles of wool and linen, stitched around the edges to close the raw edges without folding in any seam allowances, and folded them double. One row I stitched closed into solid double layered squares, the other row I only closed at the edges and left the middle open to form little loops.
In the photo above I am trying on the tabs at the shoulder, seeing if I needed more or were satisfied. I ended up adding two more tabs to the back and one more to the front so the tabs would go further around the armscye.
The sleeves were done to the same pattern as the Layton sleeves, a simple lightly curved sleeve, fairly close fitting. I cut out one pair first and stitched them up very carefully, only to find that they were a little too narrow for me, so had to cut out another pair. The baragoni consists of six strips of wool, edged on either side with dark green silk. Before attaching the baragoni to the sleeves I also inserted a picadil edge of purple and green shot silk between them and the sleeves proper. The strips were lined with the same linen I used for the rest of the dress, and with the silk edges I left it to the stiffness of the fabric to create the shape. Since I stitched the lower edge about two centimeters shorter than their actual length, there is a little bit of curve and separation between the strips and the sleeves.
You can see that the two lines of green silk at the bottom of the sleeves is echoed at the bottom of the skirt, where the lower stripe is dark green doubel velvet, and the upper one the same dark green silk as on the bodice. The skirt guards both had picadil edges on both sides, which I cut with a very sharp knife after having stitched them on.
The sleeve-guards I also cut into with the same sharp knife to make some nice cuttes:
Wearing the kirtle, from the side (photo by Kit), and from the front (photo by Edricus)
I sketched in my notebook what I wanted to aim for, and included cuttings from the silk fabrics I had to choose from:
I found the wool at Ohlssons Tyger & Stuvar and bought the first bit off the bolt. It was a new type of wool in their stock, and I think we went to the Stockholm store the first day they had it on their shelves. The same day the Uppsala store did not stock it, but one week after it was on display here as well.
The wool was a joy to sew, and I stitched and topstitched all seams in the skirts using white silk thread.
I didn't want to have to wear a corset, so the bodice had to have a little stiffening in itself, so I used a very fine unbleached linen in my stash to create an interlining layer with stiffening on the front panels:
I still used another linen as interlining in the entire bodice, before installing this extra layer. Below, testing the colour of silk on the bodice, showing interlining and clipping to fold in seam allowances smooth:
I was making a separate pair of sleeves, with a modest version of the baragoni I did for my green Venetian gown, but I also wanted something decorating the shoulders of the kirtle, so I cut out little rectangles of wool and linen, stitched around the edges to close the raw edges without folding in any seam allowances, and folded them double. One row I stitched closed into solid double layered squares, the other row I only closed at the edges and left the middle open to form little loops.
In the photo above I am trying on the tabs at the shoulder, seeing if I needed more or were satisfied. I ended up adding two more tabs to the back and one more to the front so the tabs would go further around the armscye.
The sleeves were done to the same pattern as the Layton sleeves, a simple lightly curved sleeve, fairly close fitting. I cut out one pair first and stitched them up very carefully, only to find that they were a little too narrow for me, so had to cut out another pair. The baragoni consists of six strips of wool, edged on either side with dark green silk. Before attaching the baragoni to the sleeves I also inserted a picadil edge of purple and green shot silk between them and the sleeves proper. The strips were lined with the same linen I used for the rest of the dress, and with the silk edges I left it to the stiffness of the fabric to create the shape. Since I stitched the lower edge about two centimeters shorter than their actual length, there is a little bit of curve and separation between the strips and the sleeves.
You can see that the two lines of green silk at the bottom of the sleeves is echoed at the bottom of the skirt, where the lower stripe is dark green doubel velvet, and the upper one the same dark green silk as on the bodice. The skirt guards both had picadil edges on both sides, which I cut with a very sharp knife after having stitched them on.
The sleeve-guards I also cut into with the same sharp knife to make some nice cuttes:
Wearing the kirtle, from the side (photo by Kit), and from the front (photo by Edricus)
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