![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
liadethorneggeYesterday at last week's sewing circle I was quite efficient. I had pre-washed my fabric, I had a plan of action in mind and I hopped to it with much enthusiasm.
First I laid out my yardage on the floor, then I placed my doublet pattern and petticoat pattern out ontop of it, I adjusted the front for extra seam allowance against the selvedge, I lined up the back against the fold and I laid out the back-side gores on the piece between the two body panels. The triangle left over next to the front piece is left over to use for collar and wings or a flat cap, and then I had 85 cm left to make sleeves out of.
For both front and back body panels I just extended the side-seam from the underarm seam down to groundlevel in a straight line, so both front and back are loose panels.
As for the sleeve, that was a bit of an experimentation - I went for the big mutton-chop, utilizing the full width of the doubled up fabric, scooped the cuff out a little, curved the armscye side upward and balooned the sides out to hit the edge of my fabric. I'm hoping it will look good once on.
I then laid out my wool on the acetate lining fabric, cut that out and pinned the panels to each other with two or three pins ready for sewing - all but the sleeves. I want to cut them open in front and add buttons for closure, so I will need to line the sleeves with silk. I don't want horrible acetate to show after all, do I? I'll probably buy upward of a metre of silk so I can do the sleeves, and also do the collar, and I have it in my head to do picadils around the standing collar as well. You know, the fabric folded over itself, and on the fold you snip it open about 2-3 mm for decoration, insert it around edges between shell and lining.
By this time, the clock didn't even show 3.30 pm so I could get stuck in right away with the sewing! I chose to do a running stitch in black linen thread on my wool pieces, I did a backstitch on the shoulder seams, but otherwise contented myself to running stitch. Last thing I had time for was opening the short seams on the gores and stitching them down using silk thread. It looks quite good so far, if I do say so myself. Now I must open all seams and stitch them down all around, decide how much bigger I must make the armholes, decide how much bigger to make the neck, decide how to attach my lining to the shell, and decide exactly how to tackle the sleeves.
My thoughts on decoration for the ropa is still along the lines of laid goldwork, but I'm also thinking of doing it on bands that I can applique onto the finished garment. That way the decoration process won't prevent me wearing it.
I took a couple of pictures of the general idea and put them in a new gallery, http://swein.campus.luth.se/gallery/blackropa
First I laid out my yardage on the floor, then I placed my doublet pattern and petticoat pattern out ontop of it, I adjusted the front for extra seam allowance against the selvedge, I lined up the back against the fold and I laid out the back-side gores on the piece between the two body panels. The triangle left over next to the front piece is left over to use for collar and wings or a flat cap, and then I had 85 cm left to make sleeves out of.
For both front and back body panels I just extended the side-seam from the underarm seam down to groundlevel in a straight line, so both front and back are loose panels.
As for the sleeve, that was a bit of an experimentation - I went for the big mutton-chop, utilizing the full width of the doubled up fabric, scooped the cuff out a little, curved the armscye side upward and balooned the sides out to hit the edge of my fabric. I'm hoping it will look good once on.
I then laid out my wool on the acetate lining fabric, cut that out and pinned the panels to each other with two or three pins ready for sewing - all but the sleeves. I want to cut them open in front and add buttons for closure, so I will need to line the sleeves with silk. I don't want horrible acetate to show after all, do I? I'll probably buy upward of a metre of silk so I can do the sleeves, and also do the collar, and I have it in my head to do picadils around the standing collar as well. You know, the fabric folded over itself, and on the fold you snip it open about 2-3 mm for decoration, insert it around edges between shell and lining.
By this time, the clock didn't even show 3.30 pm so I could get stuck in right away with the sewing! I chose to do a running stitch in black linen thread on my wool pieces, I did a backstitch on the shoulder seams, but otherwise contented myself to running stitch. Last thing I had time for was opening the short seams on the gores and stitching them down using silk thread. It looks quite good so far, if I do say so myself. Now I must open all seams and stitch them down all around, decide how much bigger I must make the armholes, decide how much bigger to make the neck, decide how to attach my lining to the shell, and decide exactly how to tackle the sleeves.
My thoughts on decoration for the ropa is still along the lines of laid goldwork, but I'm also thinking of doing it on bands that I can applique onto the finished garment. That way the decoration process won't prevent me wearing it.
I took a couple of pictures of the general idea and put them in a new gallery, http://swein.campus.luth.se/gallery/blackropa
