liadethornegge: (weaving)
... and it glows in the sunlight. 
I posted a reel on IG Lia de Thornegge (@lia.me.fecit) • Foton och videor på Instagram
And it is definitely a softer hand than when under tension on the loom, but still not as buttery as I might have hoped. The ends did start to fray like mad the moment I cut the cloth off the loom. I tied it off by hand to stop it unravelling any more.

I'm not sure if I want to wet finish this sample - it would end up being used in garments not meant to be washed anyway. But wet finishing does things to a raw weave to finish it off and even things out.

I even feel a little inspiration to sew - so I'll pull out my printed cottons and bring them to sewing circle tomorrow, and cut out some Ottoman stuff.
liadethornegge: (weaving)
Today  I did a couple of things I have been putting off for a month or more. We had a shire potluck, and the feast gear and garb I brought there has been languishing in bags and basket since then. I finally emptied the feast gear, washed and dried it properly and put it away - as well as going over the garb I had used and folded everything clean and put it back up into their storage boxes. I even started a wash which Ed finished.

And then I finally decided to re-sley the silk satin sampler to 16 ends per cm, which is the sett that accords with the thread diameter. We'll see if that sett will make a useable satin. Indeed the sampler at 25 epc was much more like a fabric I was envisioning. Anyway - since I went for 16 epc I am having to sley the ends two at a time in my 80/10 reed, which means it takes longer. I might have tried 5 ends per dent in a 30/10 reed, but I think 15 epc may be too far. 
Photo over on pixelfed: https://pixelfed.social/p/lia.thornegge/814196186383471172
I got half the warp done before the working position became too uncomfortable to continue. More tomorrow. 
liadethornegge: (weaving)
I am feeling stuck right now. 

The silk satin sampler is still on the loom, but I am not sure if going with a looser or tighter sett is the best way forward. 
With a linen or wool sampler it's not too much of a bother to re-sley when I am almost at the end of the warp - but this silk weighs nothing at all, and the danger is it pulls back on me and falls out of the heddles, and gets disorganized at the back tie on bar.

I feel like I've been given conflicting advice as well. One voice said, do the sett at the number of thread wraps - which would mean 15 or 16 ends per cm. Which is a WILD deviation from the 40 epc I put it on the loom as.

I could try putting the warp even tighter, and space out the wefts even more? Maybe that'll force the warp to cover more?

I can't decide, and I'm not sure I'll be able to keep the ends under control for a fourth re-sleying if I commit to one of these first.

Furthermore, I am completely devoid of any other crafting inspiration. Currently I don't see a future with events in it, and so all interest wanes. If I have no practical purpose or use for my crafts, they don't get done. I have known this about me since I was 14.
liadethornegge: (weaving)
It turns out satin is still eluding me.

What I think I need is a bigger difference in warp and weft yarns. But I do not have that much of this yellow silk that I could produce any meaningful amount of fabric in the end.

I could absolutely warp up twice the amount of ends and cram them into heddles and go with the "single" strand for my weft - but I suspect that a bigger weft would be better, giving the shine along the grain rather than cross-grain.

Or do I just need to pack it even tighter? I have woven about 10 cm of 36 ends per cm (3 ends per dent in my new 120/10 reed) and about 15 cm with 25 epc (5 ends per dent in a 50/10 reed).

Maybe I should try 5 ends per dent in the 60 and 80 reeds for 30 and 40 epc respectively? But the 36 epc is already pretty sturdy - more canvas like than anything slinky.

In an attempt to see how the 25 epc did with a thicker weft I made up a bobbin of carpet warp to put in there, to further approach canvas... 

I tried putting in two wefts for each pick and it got a little better. But so tedious. I could probably also do with fixing my tie-up a little more on this sampler. I have a floating selvedge, but for some treadles it wants to hide from me. 

I tried some surface level searching on the 'net for the anatomy of satin, but I only get essays about thread counts on bed sheets from bedding marketers. 

Anyway, that's to say, I am fumbling around in the dark, I don't know how to get results approaching useable, and so inspiration wanes.
liadethornegge: (Default)
The sampling is begun. I warped up a short 2m warp of 800 ends of yellow silk. I'm going to sample a couple of setts, I hope, and see how 5 end satin works.

It's literally glowing, and the sunny yellow makes me happy. I hope to make some fabric to use as lining in the future. 

Check out Instagram: Lia de Thornegge (@lia.me.fecit) • Foton och videor på Instagram
liadethornegge: (weaving)
This morning I handwashed my two samplers (10 and 12 epc) of wool that I need to choose between. I used water as hot as my hands could handle, and squeezed and rolled the two little pieces by hand. 

They shrunk by about 10%, and both my little pieces feel heavenly. The thread is so soft and cuddly - especially the twill which moves a little more than the tabby when I handle it.

I could happily make a whole warp of both 12 and 10 epc and of either tabby or twill. But I have to decide which of the four options I'm going to do!

But it's so hard to choose.

Check out the Instagram post where I handle the pieces
liadethornegge: (Default)
I tried: 16 epc, 12 epc and 2 ends per dent in my "55/10" reed, which is more like a 50-51/10 reed, so effectively about 10 epc.

16 is right out - I knew pretty fast, so didn't weave too much of that.

12 epc was better, I can see it working. 
 
Then I waffled between sleying my 50/10 metal reed or the all wood antique. I opted for the all wood, and wove up a much longer length of both balance tabby and balanced twill. Boy, it's real hard getting the right picks per cm when you can't just bang the beater bar down and call it good.
I can see the 10/11 epc working actually. But I want to wash my samples and see how they do.

Next question is: how do I wash them? The fabric I want to make is yardage for dyeing this summer. I never intend on throwing the resulting gown in the machine, just like I don't intend on doing that with any of my wool outer garments. But usually I just wet finish my cloth in the machine. However, I do not want to wet finish this before dyeing - that would defeat the purpose. So, do I handwash it with water as hot as I can handle? Heat, but not so much agitation as a washing machine. Or do I put it in the machine on the wool program, which uses cool water and not much agitation at all. Or throw it in on normal wash cycle? Which of these options will produce a result most like the cloth after dyeing?

I don't know.
liadethornegge: (Default)
two ends per dent in my 80/10 reed making the warp 16 ends per cm.

It did not produce a balanced cloth - I could barely get 12 picks per cm for the weft. But the fabric is gorgeous, and the experience of weaving with it is wonderful. I did break two more warp ends tieing on. But, I'm ok with that. Weaving a short sampler took no time at all, and I've already cut it down to re-sley in another reed.

Next up 2 ends per dent in my 60/10 reed. After that I'll evaluate and see if I want to try 15 ends per cm or no.

About Lia

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Lia de Thornegge

December 2025

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