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liadethorneggeOn the train down to Attemark, where I spent the last week, I brought with me one small handkerchief, hemstitched all around, twice, with the drawn thread method, and one issue of Compleat Anachronist on how to make reticella lace.
Step the first was to read the CA issue through a couple of times to really understand what the author was saying. I flipped through it quickly at the preceding sewing circle, where Helwig lent it to me, but on the train between Uppsala and Stockholm I got the chance to read it through thoroughly and ponder the practicalities.
Step two began when I boarded the X2000 train. I know by now that that mode of transport gives me a horrible sensation of dizziness and general motion sickness, so I try to keep myself fully engaged in something or else sleeping. This time, I dove straight into my sewing kit and had it out before the train was even moving. It took about ten minutes to come up with an arbitrary size (there was no mention of size in the article itself and I've yet to check it out so I had to wing it) and cut out the basic square that is the start of any reticella embroidery. I chose to cut nine threads, leave two, then cut nine more in both directions to make this quite tiny voided square, or window. Then I started the stabilizing process, doing buttonhole stitch (not blanket stitch) all around the little square using my ordinary linen sewing thread (actually bobbin lace thread, size 90/2).
Following the instructions in the article I produced, in about one hour, the basic reticella square. I am still unsure about the scale. When I finished it I did start on some more decorative embroidery to fill in the gaps, but it was so small and annoying and un-cooperative that I gave it up as a bad job. That is why that little handkerchief still only has the single reticella square in one corner. I did go looking for proper silk embroidery floss, but not a single of the stores in town had it. I was finally lucky enough to get a recommendation for a place that does sell them. Apparently a lady who goes around the fairs has silk embroidery floss and she can be found online as well SOLsilke.se and I have sent out a local scouting party to check her out. Right now, it's a very unprepossessing little handkerchief, but let me tell you, once I get white silk floss useable for embroidery I will go to town on this handkerchief! ... OK, maybe not all the way to town, maybe down the drive and two skips towards it.
Step the first was to read the CA issue through a couple of times to really understand what the author was saying. I flipped through it quickly at the preceding sewing circle, where Helwig lent it to me, but on the train between Uppsala and Stockholm I got the chance to read it through thoroughly and ponder the practicalities.
Step two began when I boarded the X2000 train. I know by now that that mode of transport gives me a horrible sensation of dizziness and general motion sickness, so I try to keep myself fully engaged in something or else sleeping. This time, I dove straight into my sewing kit and had it out before the train was even moving. It took about ten minutes to come up with an arbitrary size (there was no mention of size in the article itself and I've yet to check it out so I had to wing it) and cut out the basic square that is the start of any reticella embroidery. I chose to cut nine threads, leave two, then cut nine more in both directions to make this quite tiny voided square, or window. Then I started the stabilizing process, doing buttonhole stitch (not blanket stitch) all around the little square using my ordinary linen sewing thread (actually bobbin lace thread, size 90/2).Following the instructions in the article I produced, in about one hour, the basic reticella square. I am still unsure about the scale. When I finished it I did start on some more decorative embroidery to fill in the gaps, but it was so small and annoying and un-cooperative that I gave it up as a bad job. That is why that little handkerchief still only has the single reticella square in one corner. I did go looking for proper silk embroidery floss, but not a single of the stores in town had it. I was finally lucky enough to get a recommendation for a place that does sell them. Apparently a lady who goes around the fairs has silk embroidery floss and she can be found online as well SOLsilke.se and I have sent out a local scouting party to check her out. Right now, it's a very unprepossessing little handkerchief, but let me tell you, once I get white silk floss useable for embroidery I will go to town on this handkerchief! ... OK, maybe not all the way to town, maybe down the drive and two skips towards it.
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no subject
Date: 2007-08-25 12:42 pm (UTC)The handkerchief looks great btw.
/Eva
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Date: 2007-08-25 12:58 pm (UTC)Thank you.
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Date: 2007-08-25 01:31 pm (UTC)But, I mean, I don't know if I'm supposed to end up with squares of 1x1 cm (as seen here) or if they ought to be 5x5, or even 10x10. I've never really looked at the scale of these things. I was, until about a week ago, firmly convinced I would never ever do something so frivolously silly as lace embroidery. I can be horribly thick sometimes.
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Date: 2007-08-25 02:54 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-08-25 02:45 pm (UTC)I'm making a lace pillow like that used historically for reticello, for a class I'm teaching in the technique next month.
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Date: 2007-08-25 02:53 pm (UTC)I didn't mean that I'd be waiting for silk to do my reticella, no the CA article said that it was done with linen thread, same as the ground. But I am waiting on white silk floss for some whitework embroidery. I want to be adding initials and other stuff. So, the silk will be put to a completely different use :)
A pillow! A pillow! Pictures! We wants pictures! No, wait, Now that I go back to check your project blog I find it's the pillow used as an aid to making lace, it came across my path before I thought I wanted to be making lace at all you see.
I feel I am at the dangerous stage of having an inkling of how this is supposed to go, but not enough to know what I'm not supposed to do, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing, only I am puzzling how a pillow is used in the production of reticella lace. I shall await your class and perhaps you will have a handout?
no subject
Date: 2007-08-25 04:21 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-08-25 04:29 pm (UTC)Try asking somebody at an event if they have the Compleat Anachronist, if not then The Compleat Anachronist is available through the SCA Marketplace (https://secure.sca.org/cgi-bin/stockclerk/ca.html). This particular one is called Creating A Reticella Rosette, is the Winter 2006 issue, which, as per the online Index of Issues (http://www.sca.org/ca/issues.html), is #130 and costs a mere $4.50 to order!
SQUEEEEEE!!!!
Date: 2007-08-25 05:57 pm (UTC)Re: SQUEEEEEE!!!!
Date: 2007-08-25 07:03 pm (UTC)*breathes a sigh of relief*
Now I can continue and enjoy myself with more embroidery. Oh, yes, can you get your neck and cuff measurements to me please, that'd be grand.
Re: SQUEEEEEE!!!!
Date: 2007-08-25 07:11 pm (UTC)Honey, you have nothing to worry about! That is going to be gorgeous! I will carry it with such pride. And..ahem...you've also peaked my curiosity about trying that... Oh dear...oh dear...new crafts...*wanders away muttering*...
Re: SQUEEEEEE!!!!
Date: 2007-08-25 08:37 pm (UTC)Honestly: Me? Making lace? The juxtaposition is staggering to me. But do try it - I found it great fun!
no subject
Date: 2007-08-25 06:20 pm (UTC)Silk thread was used but I would avoid using floss. Its just a pain to keep smooth and to keep your tension correct. Silk and linen mix thread is also good as is linen thread. If you use silk, then use it over thrown linen threads.
Its looking rather lovely!
no subject
Date: 2007-08-25 07:01 pm (UTC)Perhaps I should have consulted the great LJ oracle first, eh. But when have I ever stopped to think my way through something thoroughly? Never that's when.
OK, so, you being in the know and a general all-around goddess at all things drawn thread and Elizabethan.... Would you say handkerchiefs had a general size and decoration style at all? Would it be wildly inappropriate to leave it like this, with just one reticella square? Should I make it nice and symmetrical with one in each corner?
I went the method of cut threads first, buttonhole around cavity later - would you say that's right and proper, or should some other work method be used, would you say?
Again, I know I can be a pain in the arse with all my many questions just heaped over you, so, take your time and/or tell me to go look it up myself if you'd rather not indulge my curious streak.
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Date: 2007-08-25 08:38 pm (UTC)Well, when I started doing my drawn threadwork, there was me searching the internet for the appropriate stitch and books on the subject and spending a small fortune on those very same books, and there right in front of me the whole time was the very stitch and instructions I needed in a 1940s Sewing Manual that was my one of my grandmothers! I should have checked there first!
Handkerchiefs come in numerous sizes! Your decision. If its a practical one I suspect there would be less decoration. The highly decorated ones were given as gifts - which is the case with your one?
Some of them had the same decoration all round the edge, a reticella square in each corner AND the squares embroidered all round with punto antico work. And then the decorated edges would be embroidered AGAIN with punto in aria work!
Some would be simple with just a small decorative edging and one reticella motif!
So, again, its really all down to your thoughts!
I've supplied a few links that may be useful to you:
17th century Reticella Handkerchief. (http://www.vandaimages.com/pr/1044724100/VA_Images_PC081828-01.jpg)
(If this doesn't work, go to V&A Images (http://www.vandaimages.com) and do a search for item: PC081828-01 or use the search term "handkerchief".)
Close up of Handkerchief above (http://www.vandaimages.com/pr/1044724100/VA_Images_PC081829-01.jpg)
Totally impractical Lace Handky! (http://www.vandaimages.com/pr/1044724100/VA_Images_PC082526-01.jpg) but rather lovely all the same. This one is 1680s. if you can't see it, it is third when searching or its code PC082526-01.
This is a handky border (http://www.vandaimages.com/pr/1044724100/VA_Images_PC088103-01.jpg) - the linen inside is missing. It is cut work (very tiny!) and bobbin lace. (do search term Lace or PC088103-01)
As to the method - you can cut first and then buttonhole afterwards. On small pieces it works fairly well. Or you can buttonhole first and then cut. This method is my personal preference but both methods are period.
In terms of stitches. Some reticella has the structural threads (the ones left) woven rather than button holed. Others were whipped and others are just button holed.
I've supplied links to a couple of useful books and websites. The books you may like to consider getting (how easy they are to get is a different matter but they ARE useful) especially if you continue to decide to follow this hobby!
Bay Rose Reticella (http://www.bayrose.org/needlework/reticella_rev.pdf) Page 7 shows original 16th century patterns for Reticella embroidery with punto antico work. Page 8 shows it for real (the cutwork/reticella and the punto antico all around it. THIS is what I have in mind for my ambitious cutwork smock!).
Oooooo!!!!!! I've just found This Page (http://www.arrienne-lace.com/Lace_home.htm) which is really quite good!! Well worth a look and most of the books I would suggest are on her links/books page!!!
Ok - just checked the time and I need to get changed and go to parrot sit at my parents (and starch two ruffs as well for Kentwell tomorrow and possibly get some punto in aria lace prepared for me to work on!!), so I'd better sign off now.
I'll try to dig up some other links I provided someone else on a mailing list some time ago and get them to you as well.
If you want to talk lace off LJ, you know where I am!! Have fun!
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Date: 2007-08-25 08:41 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-08-25 08:57 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2007-08-26 01:38 pm (UTC)Спасибо за статью
Date: 2011-07-09 01:33 pm (UTC)