liadethornegge: (Default)
I've been having issues with the design of my cape. I trimmed the cape all the way around with a woven band and wanted to do a second line with the same band, but I'm lacking half a meter to make that happen. Helwig also did not have any more of that roll, so I had to go back to the drawing board.

I tried a number of variations to do another line in the same spot, and eventually came up with a combination of a green leafy trim I found at Lidl and a narrow gold lace trim.. 

I've been working on appliqueing that as a second outline all around, and the configuration I landed on means I have to twist the gold tape around the leafy trim every inch, so there's a lot of manipulation going on, which slows me down. I started this at the centre of the front edge, i.e. right at the back of my neck, and it meets at the centre of the hem. Since the leaves are directional it becomes another wreath all around the cape.

I also remembered that I was going to stitch on spangles all over the remainder of the cape. I think I want to lay them out to be on a grid, and I might also actually trace out that grid with more trim. We'll see.

During the day I finished stitching down the trim to complete the wreath and tried to take pictures of the shiny. It's hard though.

Tomorrow I have to pack for Lucia Baronial Investiture, and on Friday morning we head to catch the ferry to Gotland.

liadethornegge: (weaving)
 I have bought my first loom!

I went to a car boot sale, and a loppis (think semi-permanent yard sale) outside Uppsala this weekend, and a 70 cm wide Glimåkra Victoria table loom (Glimåkra official site with image) jumped into my care. I spotted it in the barn at the loppis, and asked the little old lady about it. Asking if it she knew it was complete. She said she'd be willing to sell it for 50 SEK to a person who could take care of it properly.

So, we went to take a look, pick up all the pieces and see what was there, and it turned out to have all the parts, and so I paid her 50 SEK for a perfectly good 4 shaft table loom. 

At the boot sale earlier I had crouched down to look into a big blue IKEA bag containing wool yarn, and the man at the table said 'I'll sell it to you for 50 SEK'.

So, I came home with something approaching 2 kg of 6/1 Bergå wool in a few colours, and a loom for the low low price of 100 sek in total. 
My Öxabäck floor loom is not going anywhere, so now I have two looms. OK, three if we cound the band loom that I haven't touched since 2011.

In completely other news - I think I finished the central back applique on my cape. I might be adding some additional outlining, but possibly not.
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liadethornegge: (embroidery)
I remain mystified why my post about my failed experiment with simplified houndstooth keeps getting so much traffic on my wordpress.

The last seven days it has 30 hits, and for the last three years it has 3k hits while the next most popular page has only been shown 300 times. It's wild, and I can't figure out where this traffic is coming from, except that it must be high on the list for searches on houndstooth weaving.

In other news, the Laurel cape project is actually properly under way now. I've appliquéd almost all the leaves to make up a full wreath as well as my badge in the centre back. I'm currently pondering exactly how to do further outlining.

The silver leather is simply whipstitched on with white linen thread all around the pieces. I'm planning on outlining each element with either silver cord or black or green silk. Probably silver cord.

The wreath will also get a central stem in a bigger gold cord, couched down along the ply with either green or black silk. I'll do some samples of that before I decide.

The idea I had from the start to work on this project at events turns out to have been very silly - because to do the applique smoothly I need a large flat surface as support. The outer fabric is a little wibbly, and it's laid over a light-weight linen. In order to not get bubbles all between each element I need the cape to lay smooth while I whipstitch the outlines of each piece.

I'm also using this project as an opportunity to practice precision sewing with my left hand. I am left-handed, but sewing I have always done with my right hand. I've learned how to use a tailor's thimble with my right, and I'm pretty swift and accurate with it. However, I've developed my own technique, rather than Official Tailor's Thimble Usage (tm) as demonstrated here by Reza of International School of Tailoring on YouTube.

Since I do not want to disturb the surface of the cape while I'm stitching, half of any motif is better done with the left hand - so I've been trying to learn proper thimble technique with my left hand. 

It's been fascinating,  I tried this method with my right hand, but I'm finding it super awkward to get the thimble locked in in preparation to take the stitch. I also tried with my left hand and locking in the thimble is easy! But grabbing the needle and pulling to the right tension to finish the stitch is super awkward instead.

I've never really done any sewing with my left hand, but I have dexterity thanks to writing with it. I have noticed some slight improvements over the last couple of days, but it is also very frustrating, because it's slowing me down to have to switch to the left. Some pieces I've just turned the whole cape around on the table to do fully with my right. 

liadethornegge: (Default)
Yesterday myself, Master Edricus and Viscountess Helwig daytripped to the event May Count in our neighbouring shire of Holmrike.

We got there by 10, and I got right into setting up a couple of tables for myself to work on my Laurel cape. I decided that it was going to be my event project. This may change. Anyway. Here's a photo of the general design:
Go to Flickr --> Cape design

What I started with was cutting out a half circle to my measurements - 140 cm radius - from a white linen. This will work as interlining, stabilizing the wool/silk we dyed green last summer at my Apprentice Christina's place.
This cloth is now in four pieces, two pieces 1.40 cm long by 70 cm wide, and two about 90 cm long and 70 wide. I can make up a  full half circle out of this, with only a couple of piecings.

I proceeded to baste the two longer panels of wool to the centre of this linen, folding in the cut edge seam allowance over the selvedge. This effectively anchored both pieces of wool to the middle of the interlining, lining up the grain lines there.

Then I basted the shorter bits of wool onto either side of the two middle panels, but catching only the wool. After layout of the linen I realized it needed to be ironed before I anchored any more of the outer fabric to it - so I did as much on this as I could. Then I rolled up the line and wool and folded it up so I could continue on the back applique.

I found a silver faux leather at the Arts&Crafts expo the other year, which I will use on the back to applique on a big laurel wreath and my badge. Around the hem I will also add roundels with my badge. 

I worked out how many leaves I would need for the wreath on the back, and I marked out all the pieces on the reverse of the leather in pencil. By that point it was time to head out to watch the tourney, so I set down my project. 

I thought I made good progress in any case. 

This morning I unfolded my sandwich of linen and wool, and ironed it all over again. Next step is to lay it out again and baste the front edge and the two seams joining the smaller bits to the linen. Then cut and piece the small triangles needed to fill in the half circle. Then I can stitch all the seams down properly and I will have the base for all my applique and embroidery.

I have a bunch of silver cord and the plan is to do couching, picking out contours and add details. 

The finished cape will then be lined in green silk. For closure my plan is to do a similar thing to how we set up the Nordmark capes - that is to say one cord sewn on about a third of the way in to it on either side of the front edges so I can tie the short ends in front of my chest and the long ends underneath the arms around the back. It makes for a very secure fastening and remove the need to constantly pull down in front.

I envision it to be entirely SCA regalia blingy in the end.

About Lia

liadethornegge: (Default)
Lia de Thornegge

December 2025

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